The Nature of Skincare: Categorising Cosmetics with Bioactive Ingredients in the Case of Quenty-Cosmetic.

IF 0.6 3区 哲学 Q3 HISTORY & PHILOSOPHY OF SCIENCE Ambix Pub Date : 2025-02-01 Epub Date: 2025-02-06 DOI:10.1080/00026980.2025.2456889
Gina Maria Klein
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Abstract

The beauty line, Quenty-Cosmetic, exemplifies the ambivalent construction of naturalness surrounding an early cosmeceutical product in 1970s West Germany. This line of skincare products, featuring biologically active ingredients, was marketed as a preventative solution for skin ageing, revealing tensions between societal perceptions of ageing and the ideal of the "natural look" in the context of a polluted environment. Quenty's presence in pharmacies, drugstores, and health food stores illustrates its role in blurring the lines between cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, and natural products, reflecting Ilana Löwy's "boundary concepts." Drawing on the archival resources on Quenty-Cosmetic of Bayer Archives Leverkusen, this article examines how nature is simultaneously portrayed as both a hero and an adversary in the quest for the "natural look," revealing the complexities inherent in the cosmetic industry's construction of naturalness.

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护肤的本质:以Quenty-Cosmetic为例,对含有生物活性成分的化妆品进行分类。
美妆系列Quenty-Cosmetic体现了20世纪70年代西德早期药妆产品对自然的矛盾建构。这一系列护肤产品以生物活性成分为特色,作为预防皮肤老化的解决方案而上市,揭示了在污染环境下,社会对衰老的看法与“自然外观”的理想之间的紧张关系。Quenty在药店、药店和健康食品商店的存在说明了它在模糊化妆品、药品和天然产品之间界限方面的作用,反映了Ilana Löwy的“边界概念”。本文利用勒沃库森拜耳档案馆quenty - cosmetics的档案资源,研究了在追求“自然外观”的过程中,大自然是如何同时被描绘成英雄和对手的,揭示了化妆品行业构建自然的内在复杂性。
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来源期刊
Ambix
Ambix HISTORY & PHILOSOPHY OF SCIENCE-
CiteScore
0.80
自引率
60.00%
发文量
42
审稿时长
3 months
期刊介绍: Ambix is an internationally recognised, peer-reviewed quarterly journal devoted to publishing high-quality, original research and book reviews in the intellectual, social and cultural history of alchemy and chemistry. It publishes studies, discussions, and primary sources relevant to the historical experience of all areas related to alchemy and chemistry covering all periods (ancient to modern) and geographical regions. Ambix publishes individual papers, focused thematic sections and larger special issues (either single or double and usually guest-edited). Topics covered by Ambix include, but are not limited to, interactions between alchemy and chemistry and other disciplines; chemical medicine and pharmacy; molecular sciences; practices allied to material, instrumental, institutional and visual cultures; environmental chemistry; the chemical industry; the appearance of alchemy and chemistry within popular culture; biographical and historiographical studies; and the study of issues related to gender, race, and colonial experience within the context of chemistry.
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