Insects as an Alternative Source for the Production of Fats for Cosmetics.

IF 0.2 4区 医学 Q4 CHEMISTRY, APPLIED Journal of cosmetic science Pub Date : 2018-05-01
Geert R Verheyen, Tom Ooms, Liesbeth Vogels, Steven Vreysen, Ann Bovy, Sabine Van Miert, Filip Meersman
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Abstract

Insects may provide an environmentally friendly way of producing high-quality bio-based materials that can be implemented for cosmetic applications. Insects can be bred on organic waste, in high numbers, and on small surfaces, therefore, making large scale industrial breeding possible. Fats from three insect species: the black soldier fly (BSF) (Hermetia illucens), the locust (Locusta migratoria), and the house cricket (Acheta domesticus) were evaluated for potential use in skin care. Insects were dried and fats were extracted using petroleum ether. The fats were further refined, and the fatty acid composition and the acid value were determined. The fats were used in a hand cream formulation and compared with the currently used mink-and plant-derived oils. Fatty acid analysis indicates that BSF contains > 60% of lauric acid, which makes it less suitable for application in a skin-care product, whereas locust and cricket fats are rich in C16 and C18 fatty acids which makes them more suitable. Phospholipids and free fatty acid levels in the three insect species are relatively high compared with commercial, refined oils, and need to be removed by appropriate refining protocols. Odor and color also need to be removed by physical refinement to improve the applicability.

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昆虫作为化妆品油脂生产的替代来源。
昆虫可以提供一种环境友好的方式来生产高质量的生物基材料,这些材料可以用于化妆品。昆虫可以在有机废物上大量繁殖,在小的表面上繁殖,因此,大规模的工业繁殖成为可能。对黑兵蝇(Hermetia illucens)、蝗虫(Locusta migratoria)和家蟋蟀(Acheta domesticus)这三种昆虫的脂肪在皮肤护理中的潜在用途进行了评估。昆虫被干燥,脂肪被用石油醚提取。进一步对脂肪进行精制,测定脂肪酸组成和酸值。这些脂肪被用在护手霜配方中,并与目前使用的水貂油和植物油进行了比较。脂肪酸分析表明,BSF含有> 60%的月桂酸,这使得它不适合用于护肤品,而蝗虫和蟋蟀脂肪富含C16和C18脂肪酸,这使得它们更适合用于护肤品。与商业精炼油相比,这三种昆虫的磷脂和游离脂肪酸含量相对较高,需要通过适当的精炼方案去除。气味和颜色也需要通过物理精制去除,以提高适用性。
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来源期刊
Journal of cosmetic science
Journal of cosmetic science 工程技术-皮肤病学
CiteScore
0.90
自引率
0.00%
发文量
26
期刊介绍: The JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE (JCS) publishes papers concerned with cosmetics, cosmetic products, fragrances, their formulation and their effects in skin care or in overall consumer well-being, as well as papers relating to the sciences underlying cosmetics, such as human skin physiology, color physics, physical chemistry of colloids and emulsions, or psychological effects of olfaction in humans. Papers of interest to the cosmetic industry and to the understanding of the cosmetic markets are also welcome for publication.
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