Journal of cosmetic science最新文献

Negative health effects of active and passive smokers have been widely described, but the effect of tobacco smoke on the skin has been less explored. In this study, an analytical methodology has been developed to evaluate the dermal permeation of hazardous compounds present in tobacco smoke, using an exposition chamber to simulate finite and infinite smoking conditions, in vitro vertical Franz diffusion cells, and Strat-M^® membranes as human skin simulants. Moreover, the antipollution effect of three cosmetics has been evaluated, showing a significant efficacy to reduce dermal permeation of hazardous tobacco-smoke compounds such as of nicotine and aromatic hydrocarbons.

Cosmetic products such as shampoos, body washes, mascaras, and foundations can all be classified essentially as complex fluids. Depending on the product format, the specific complex fluid used in a formulation can range from self-assembled surfactant systems found in most cleansing products to oil-in-water and water-in-oil emulsions found in makeup, color cosmetics, and skin care. These complex fluids play a critical role in giving rise to rheological and tribological properties necessary for both sensory and functional performance. Critical functional properties such as product stability and wet hair conditioning are impacted significantly through any changes in the product rheology. Positive sensorial properties of products are always desired by consumers, and as such, it is critical to always consider how to optimize formulation rheology to adequately deliver desirable sensory performance and properties. This review will focus on the importance of understanding and characterizing the rheology of complex fluids used in cosmetic products. A review and analysis of the recent literature in this area is presented.

Increased public awareness regarding the ingredients that make up cosmetic and personal care formulations coupled with the growing concern about the dwindling nonrenewable sources from which most cosmetic ingredients like surfactants and polymers are obtained from has led to a strong need to achieve sustainability within the cosmetic industry. It has become the need of the hour to incorporate sustainability at each and every point of the product life cycle. This review focuses on the sustainable sourcing and formulation design of two key cosmetic ingredients-polymers and surfactants. To be able to completely replace their synthetic counterparts, it is crucial that these green products exhibit an efficacy level at par or greater than that of the products already on the market. Hence, various studies that show the impact of these alternatives on various performance parameters such as film formation and rheology have also been discussed. Being a heavily consumer-driven industry, some of the decisive future trends and challenges that the cosmetic industry needs to address have also been explored in this review.

Color retention and bleeding are two properties of lipstick performance which impact consumer acceptability and preference. Before now, the claims of long-wear and non-bleeding had yet to be meaningfully substantiated quantitatively. Lack of objectively defined parameters and measurement methods inhibits one's ability of obtaining adequate claims support. In this study, we designed a 30-member, controlled-usability study to develop methods that quantify color retention and bleeding potential. Image analysis methods were used to measure lip color properties at the time points of baseline, immediate after application, and 8 hours of wear. Large-scale panel perception studies were conducted to obtain consumer acceptability criteria and establish consumer relevance of the objectively measured parameters. Our results show that the methods developed can quantitatively describe the color properties. Eight hours after application, the mean levels of color retention and bleeding potential for this specific lip color were 82.67% and 2.43, respectively. The results of panel perception studies helped establish threshold values for lip color performance acceptability, that is, if a color retention level was lower than 82.7%, or a bleeding potential level was higher than 2.37, the performance would not be deemed acceptable. The methods and results reported here serve as a useful tool for the evaluation of lip color performance in future development of quality lip color formulations.

In the present study, the required hydrophilic lipophilic balance (HLB) values of Citrus unshiu fruit oil (CUFO), Citrus unshiu peel oil (CUPO), horse fat (HF), and Camellia japonica seed oil were determined empirically by preparing oil-in-water (o/w) emulsions. Lipophilic and hydrophilic surfactants were prepared in various ratios in o/w emulsion. The droplet size of the emulsion was measured using a particle size analyzer, and the turbidity was measured using a turbidity meter and a ultraviolet (UV)-vis spectrophotometer. According to the Orafidiya-Oladimeji method, the HLB value of the emulsion having the minimum dispersion ratio, the minimum droplet size, and the maximum turbidity degree was determined as the required HLB value for each essential oil. Based on these methods, the required HLB values of CUFO, CUPO, HF, and Camellia japonica seed oil were determined as 14.75-14.90, 15.35-15.40, 6.30-7.06, and 5.94-6.30, respectively.

Centella asiatica has many applications in cosmetics, including wrinkle treatments, but its effectiveness remains to be clarified. This systematic review study aimed to demonstrate the efficacy and safety of C. asiatica for reducing facial wrinkles. PubMed, Excerpta Medica dataBASE (EMBASE), Cochrane Central Register of clinical trials, Allied and Complementary Medicine Database, Cumulative Index to Nursing and Allied Health Literature (CINAHL), Thai Library Integrated System, and Thai university database/journals were searched until May 2019. Five double-blinded randomised controlled trials, including 172 Asian females, were included. Endpoints were wrinkling measured by visual score, image analysis, and participant satisfaction. Two placebo-controlled studies applied gel/creams containing C. asiatica or asiaticoside for 12 w to periorbital skin. Two studies applied tretinoin or Pueraria mirifica contralaterally and by network meta-analysis C. asiatica appeared more effective than P. mirifica but possibly less than tretinoin. Asiaticoside applied as a lipstick for 8 w reduced lip wrinkling. Skin hydration was markedly raised by C. asiatica but not tretinoin. One study reported 10 adverse events for C. asiatica and 35 for tretinoin. Cochrane risk of bias was generally low, reporting was weak, and lack of C. asiatica standardization prevents general application. From the reported data, it is possible to conclude that C. asiatica improved lip and periocular wrinkles, and may replace retinoids if its long-term safety is established and C. asiatica is standardized.

Chemical peeling can reduce skin hyperpigmentation; however, once exhausted its thinning action, the depigmentation process does not continue further. We carried out a monocentric, prospective, noncontrolled study aimed at the evaluation of the efficacy, safety, ease of use, pleasantness, and tolerability of a depigmentation topical treatment program in women submitted to a previous chemical peeling. The topical treatment has been administered daily for 30 days to 16 women submitted to a chemical peeling containing a fixed-dose combination of salicylic acid, pyruvic acid, and retinoic acid within 7 days before study inclusion. Target skin areas have been evaluated for melanin concentration and skin texture before peeling and at study visits 1 (after peeling) and 2 (after the 30-day treatment). The topical treatment program induced a decrease in melanin concentration between study visits 1 and 2 (-4.74%; p = 0.0008). It reduced melanin concentration even further between the prepeeling period and visit 2 (-7.8%; p < 0.0001). Patients rated the depigmentation topical treatment program as "very simple" (87.5%) and "simple" (12.5%) to use and as "pleasant" (56.25%) and "very pleasant" (43.75%). Results support the use of the home-based depigmentation topical treatment program to potentiate the effectiveness of a previous chemical peeling in hyperpigmentation reduction.

In this study, we investigated the antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties of Cnidium officinale hexane (COH) extract and senkyunolide A (SA). The antibacterial activities were measured using the paper disk diffusion method and minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) against Propionibacterium acnes and Malassezia furfur. COH extract showed antibacterial activity at a concentration of 50 mg ml^-1. The MICs of COH and SA were determined using the broth microdilution method. COH was found to be active on all the bacteria tested (10 ≤ MIC ≤ 20 mg ml^-1). SA showed antibacterial activity against P. acnes. The anti-inflammatory properties were determined using a pancreatic lipase inhibition activity method, lipoxygenase inhibition activity, and inhibition of nitric oxide production activity. COH and SA inhibited the production of nitric oxide by up to 50 µg ml^-1 in a dose-dependent manner. COH and SA possess antibacterial and anti-inflammatory activities. They could be used as antibacterial ingredients in various industries.

Skin functions as a neuro-immuno-endocrine tissue with well-defined neuronal networks and functions. The endocannabinoid system has been proven to be an important, homeostatic regulator for homeostatic and inflammatory events. The system comprises endogenous or exogenous ligands and receptors (CB1 and CB2). In the present study, we evaluated the soothing properties of a Pogostemon cablin (patchouli) extract. Agonist AM1241 and antagonist AM630 were used for CB2 receptor activation/inhibition. Expression of CB2 receptor and β-endorphin was monitored by immunohistochemistry. Skin inflammation was induced with ultraviolet B (UVB) or lipopolysaccharide (LPS), and the following markers were used to highlight the anti-inflammatory properties of the extract: transient receptor potential vanilloid 1 (TRPV1), interleukin receptors 1 (IL1R1), and the interleukin 6 signal transducer (IL6ST). Our results demonstrated the implication of the CB2 receptor in the skin inflammation process. The expression of CB2 receptor and β-endorphin was increased 48 hours after application of the extract. Furthermore, patchouli extract application helped to reduce IL1R1, IL6ST, and TRPV1 expression, in skin exposed to UVB or LPS. In conclusion, the application of the patchouli extract helps maintain skin integrity and reduce skin discomfort via modulation of CB2 receptor stimulation and the subsequent β-endorphin release.

To explore the significance of ceramide in the skin barrier and its potential utility within the cosmetics industry, an accurate and high-speed method was used to detect the types of ceramides in the skin and blood of a healthy Chinese population. Forearm cortical skin stratum corneum samples were obtained from four healthy subjects using a noninvasive method. In addition, these subjects were collected intravenously to obtain blood samples. Ceramides were detected in skin and blood samples using high-performance liquid chromatography coupled with specialized high-resolution Fourier Transform mass spectrometry machine. Data were analyzed using full-flow lipid analysis software. Peaks representing ceramides were detected in all skin samples and some blood samples. The results show that ceramides in skin are predominantly long-chain ceramides, but mainly short-chain in the blood. Simple and fast qualitative and quantitative analysis of ceramide in the skin and blood provides a basis for the precise addition of ceramide in future skin care products and the metabolic regulation and prevention of various diseases.