Fragrance Retention in Virgin and Bleached Caucasian Hair.

IF 0.2 4区 医学 Q4 CHEMISTRY, APPLIED Journal of cosmetic science Pub Date : 2018-09-01
André Medice, Carolina Lourenço, Rebeca Gasparin, Adelino Nakano
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Abstract

Human hair, when bleached, undergoes oxidation of melamine granules and its structural proteins. This work aims to compare fragrance retention in both virgin and bleached hair, taking into consideration the interactions between fragrance compounds and hair before and after chemical modification. The bleaching process of straight dark brown Caucasian hair was carried out using a 4.5% wt. hydrogen peroxide solution at pH 9.5. Fragrance raw materials were incorporated in a shampoo formulation and applied on hair by washing, followed by rinsing. Hair was then let to dry under controlled conditions of temperature and humidity and the volatiles were collected by solid-phase microextraction and quantified by Gas Chromatography Mass Spectrometry (GC-MS). The more bleached the hair, the higher is the amount of sorbed substances during shampoo washing because of a higher number of holes in the hair structure, which increases its sorption capacity. Besides that, the impairments caused by oxidative reaction of hair surfaces are responsible for the faster evaporation of fragrant compounds and this behavior was compared with the loss of moisture of untreated and bleached hair.

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初发和漂白白种人头发的香味保留。
人类的头发在漂白后,会被三聚氰胺颗粒及其结构蛋白氧化。本研究旨在比较未染头发和漂白头发的香味保留情况,并考虑化学修饰前后芳香化合物与头发之间的相互作用。采用浓度为4.5%的过氧化氢溶液,pH值为9.5,对高加索人直发深褐色进行了漂白。香氛原料被纳入洗发水配方中,并通过洗涤,然后漂洗应用于头发上。然后在控制温度和湿度的条件下干燥头发,用固相微萃取法收集挥发物,用气相色谱-质谱法(GC-MS)定量。头发漂得越白,在洗发过程中吸收的物质就越多,因为头发结构上的孔越多,吸收能力就越强。此外,头发表面氧化反应造成的损伤是芳香化合物蒸发更快的原因,并将这种行为与未经处理和漂白的头发的水分损失进行了比较。
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来源期刊
Journal of cosmetic science
Journal of cosmetic science 工程技术-皮肤病学
CiteScore
0.90
自引率
0.00%
发文量
26
期刊介绍: The JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE (JCS) publishes papers concerned with cosmetics, cosmetic products, fragrances, their formulation and their effects in skin care or in overall consumer well-being, as well as papers relating to the sciences underlying cosmetics, such as human skin physiology, color physics, physical chemistry of colloids and emulsions, or psychological effects of olfaction in humans. Papers of interest to the cosmetic industry and to the understanding of the cosmetic markets are also welcome for publication.
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