Antioxidant, UV Protection, and Antiphotoaging Properties of Anthocyanin-Pigmented Lipstick Formulations.

IF 0.2 4区 医学 Q4 CHEMISTRY, APPLIED Journal of cosmetic science Pub Date : 2019-03-01
Alexandra Westfall, Gregory T Sigurdson, M Mónica Giusti
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Abstract

Consumer demand for foods and cosmetics containing naturally derived ingredients has been increasing. Naturally derived anthocyanins (ACNs), from fruits and vegetables, were previously demonstrated to provide a wide range of hues as lipstick colorants with high stability. Therefore, the objective of this study was to evaluate the use of ACNs as bioactive pigments in lipstick formulations. Commercially available sources of nonacylated and acylated derivatives of the six major ACN aglycones were incorporated into a commercial lipstick base. The ACN-containing lipsticks were evaluated for their ability to act as ultraviolet (UV) absorbers [a source of sun protection factor (SPF)], free radical scavengers against 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), and preventers of melanin formation through tyrosinase inhibition. All formulas showed increased UV absorption over the lipstick base, and acylated ACNs contributed to the highest in vitro SPF (UVB) values (≥15.8) in formulations. All formulas exhibited high inhibition of DPPH free radicals and inhibition of melanin production by tyrosinase at microgram per milligram concentrations similar to or less than kojic acid (2.41 ± 0.06 µg/mg). This is physiologically relevant because lipstick use is on average 24 mg/day. This study suggests the potential for ACNs to be used as biologically active ingredients in lipstick formulations by acting as antioxidants and UV-protection and antiaging compounds.

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花青素口红配方的抗氧化、防紫外线和抗光老化性能。
消费者对含有天然成分的食品和化妆品的需求一直在增加。从水果和蔬菜中提取的天然花青素(acn),以前被证明可以作为口红着色剂提供多种颜色,而且稳定性很高。因此,本研究的目的是评估acn作为生物活性色素在口红配方中的使用。六种主要ACN苷元的非酰化和酰化衍生物的商业来源被纳入商业口红基地。研究人员评估了含acn的口红作为紫外线(UV)吸收剂(防晒因子(SPF)的一种来源)、对抗2,2-二苯基-1-苦味酰肼(DPPH)的自由基清除剂,以及通过抑制酪氨酸酶阻止黑色素形成的能力。所有配方均表现出比口红底液更强的紫外线吸收,其中酰基化acn对配方中最高的体外SPF (UVB)值(≥15.8)有贡献。所有配方均表现出对DPPH自由基和酪氨酸酶产生黑色素的抑制作用,其浓度与曲酸(2.41±0.06µg/mg)相似或低于曲酸(2.41±0.06µg/mg)。这在生理上是相关的,因为口红的使用量平均为24毫克/天。这项研究表明,acn作为抗氧化剂、防紫外线和抗衰老化合物,有可能被用作口红配方中的生物活性成分。
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来源期刊
Journal of cosmetic science
Journal of cosmetic science 工程技术-皮肤病学
CiteScore
0.90
自引率
0.00%
发文量
26
期刊介绍: The JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE (JCS) publishes papers concerned with cosmetics, cosmetic products, fragrances, their formulation and their effects in skin care or in overall consumer well-being, as well as papers relating to the sciences underlying cosmetics, such as human skin physiology, color physics, physical chemistry of colloids and emulsions, or psychological effects of olfaction in humans. Papers of interest to the cosmetic industry and to the understanding of the cosmetic markets are also welcome for publication.
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