巴拿马帽子产自厄瓜多尔

Peter V. N. Henderson
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摘要

早在前西班牙时代,厄瓜多尔人就用植物材料制作了少量的帽子。然而,在1850年至1950年间,厄瓜多尔大大扩大了产量,为世界提供了时尚的夏季头饰,由于转运地点的原因,这种头饰被错误地称为巴拿马帽子。工匠们用生长在Manabí省海岸附近的托基利亚棕榈树的叶子编织而成,厄瓜多尔制造的巴拿马帽子首先受到穿越地峡的49人的青睐,因为它们的重量轻,帽檐宽,可以保护佩戴者免受热带阳光的照射。同样,欧洲的精英阶层和中产阶级消费者在度假胜地享受夏季假期或在城市街道上漫步时,也发现这种帽子是理想的选择。巴拿马对厄瓜多尔的经济增长贡献不大,主要是通过税收收入来帮助支付瓜亚基尔和基多铁路等基础设施项目。但是Manabí手工制作的帽子并没有为工人创造高收入的工作。后来,当编织中心转移到azay省时,只有最后阶段的生产才使用任何类型的机器。最终,只有厄瓜多尔出口商和外国零售商赚了很多钱;因此,巴拿马的帽子并不是为国家创造繁荣的发展引擎。尽管这些帽子对厄瓜多尔经济的影响微乎其微,但它们是厄瓜多尔国家遗产的重要组成部分,在时尚界随处可见。政治家、电影明星和数以百万计的中产阶级在夏季的几个月里都戴着巴拿马帽子,尽管很少有人知道它们来自厄瓜多尔。20世纪50年代末,男人不再戴正式的帽子,利润丰厚的巴拿马帽子贸易随之萎缩。
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Panama Hats Are Made in Ecuador
Ecuadorians had fashioned small quantities of hats made from vegetative material since pre-Hispanic times. Between 1850 and 1950, however, Ecuador greatly expanded its output and supplied the world with fashionable summertime headwear that erroneously, because of the place of transshipment, bore the name Panama hats. Woven by artisans from the fronds of the toquilla palm tree that flourished near the coast of Manabí province, Ecuadorian-made Panama hats first found favor with Forty-Niners crossing through the isthmus because their light weight and broad brims protected wearers from the tropical sun. Likewise, European elites and middle-class consumers found the hats ideal as they enjoyed summer vacations at resorts or strolled through city streets. Panama hats contributed only modestly to Ecuador’s economic growth, primarily by earning tax revenues that helped pay for infrastructure projects such as the Guayaquil & Quito Railroad. But Manabí’s hand-crafted hats did not create high-paying jobs benefiting workers. Later, when the weaving center shifted to Azuay province, only the final stages of production used any type of machinery. Ultimately, only Ecuadorian exporters and foreign retailers made much money; hence, Panama hats were not an engine of development creating prosperity for the nation. Despite their minimal effect on Ecuador’s economy, the hats represented an important element of the national patrimony visible throughout the world of fashion. Politicians, movie stars, and millions of people in the middle class sported Panama hats during the summer months for generations, even though few knew they came from Ecuador. Once men stopped wearing formal hats in the late 1950s, the profitable Panama hat trade shrank.
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