A Waiter in Paris: Adventures in the Dark Heart of the City by Edward Chisholm (review)

Reviewed by: A Waiter in Paris: Adventures in the Dark Heart of the City by Edward Chisholm Alice J. Strange Chisholm, Edward. A Waiter in Paris: Adventures in the Dark Heart of the City. Pegasus, 2022. ISBN 978-1-63936-283-7. Pp. 371. In this memoir, an aspiring British writer, after a breakup with his French girlfriend, finds himself alone in Paris and desperate for a job. By chance, Chisholm lands a tryout at a prestigious corporate-owned restaurant near the Seine, frequented by executives and celebrities as well as tourists. With no experience, he begins as a runner—one who delivers food and clears tables—and stays on, with the aim of becoming a professional waiter. As time passes, the harsh truths of restaurant life emerge. Foremost is the importance of appearances. “If a waiter is doing his job correctly, he will be manipulating your perception of reality” (202). The dining room is a theatre where the waiters, in their mandatory black suits and bow ties, play their roles to perfection. Behind the scenes another world exists. From the spacious dining room, a swinging door leads to an underground maze of crowded, windowless spaces where food is prepared by immigrant workers. Chisholm witnesses hidden mistreatment of waiters, which leads to unprofessional behavior on their part. The job is physically demanding and poorly paid. Waiters are always on the run, balancing heavy trays. Fourteen-hour days, without meal breaks, are common. Sometimes they are cheated out of overtime pay; job security does not exist. Some waiters supplement their incomes with shady side pursuits, from stealing cutlery to selling drugs. Unfinished food and wine are eagerly devoured. Before heading out to a table, a waiter might test the temperature of a sauce with his finger or wipe the rim of a plate with a napkin from the soiled bin. Customers are none the wiser, nor are they aware that, increasingly, the food is pre-cooked, industrially made. Many waiters dream of a different career, knowing they are trapped in this one. They complain incessantly and compete fiercely for tips, and Chisholm excels at evoking their conversations. He sees waiters as pawns in a corrupt system, exploited by bosses intent on maximizing profits; he senses that this culture is widespread. His opulent restaurant, compared to others, “isn’t necessarily the same, but it isn’t much different either” (317). The competitiveness of the restaurant is a microcosm of French life. Everyone is grasping for a higher rung on the ladder, fearful of losing the one they have. “When viewed through the prism of the restaurant, French society—the darker side at least—seems to be built upon a vindictive sort of one-upmanship” (316). Yet despite his stressful job, Chisholm loves Paris, where ordinary people like him live amid great monuments and panoramas. He becomes a respected waiter, proving that he can do it. Then, he decides to leave. It is simply not his calling, and he has other options. Writing is his talent, as seen in this lively and compelling work. His personal story and insightful look into this hidden niche of French life deserve the attention of all Francophiles. Chisholm’s parting message is heartfelt: always take pity on your waiter and leave a generous tip. [End Page 221] Alice J. Strange Southeast Missouri State University, emerita Copyright © 2023 American Association of Teachers of French