一种用于苛求性皮肤的含有化学交换脂肪的乳剂与用于特应性皮肤的商业配方的理化性质比较。

IF 0.2 4区 医学 Q4 CHEMISTRY, APPLIED Journal of cosmetic science Pub Date : 2018-11-01
Małgorzata Kowalska, Magdalena Woźniak, Sławomir Janas, Diana Mróz
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引用次数: 0

摘要

这项工作的目的是评估和分析一种新的乳液产品的功能特性,根据我们的配方,其中含有经筛选的用于特应性皮肤护理的常用制剂的特性的酯化脂肪。此外,还分析了所有测试制剂的组成,以确定这些制剂中含有的活性物质。皮肤水合水平和经皮失水(TEWL)应用后,商业配方和我们自己的制备基础上的脂肪进行了评估。用动态激光衍射技术测定了微滴的大小和分布。通过Turbiscan试验对制备的乳化液在不同贮存条件下的稳定性进行了评价。使用含有独特成分月见草油的面霜C5后,平均皮肤含水量增加最高。应用我们自己的配方后,TEWL下降幅度最大。感官分析显示,乳霜的得分最高。受访者评价我们自己的准备工作不完全令人满意。所获得的结果表明,生产一种具有酯化脂肪的乳液作为特应性皮肤护理的配方是可能的。其物理特性表现出分散性的稳定性。然而,颜色、平滑、缓冲效果和吸收等参数应该得到改善。
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A Comparison of Physicochemical Properties of an Emulsion Containing Chemically Interesterified Fat for Demanding Skin with Commercial Formulations for Atopic Skin.

The aim of the work was to evaluate and analyze the functional properties of a new emulsion product made according to our recipe containing interesterified fat with the properties of selected popular preparations used in the care of atopic skin. Also, the composition of all tested preparations was analyzed for active substances contained in these preparations. Skin hydration level and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) after application of commercial formulations as well as of our own preparation on the basis of interesterified fat were assessed. Determination of droplets' size and their distribution was performed for our own preparation using dynamic laser diffraction technique. Stability of the prepared emulsion in different storage conditions was evaluated by the Turbiscan test. The highest average skin hydration increase was observed after the application of cream C5, which contained a unique component-evening primrose oil. The highest decrease in TEWL was obtained after the application of our own formulation. Sensory analysis showed that the highest scores were obtained for creams. Respondents evaluated our own preparation as not fully satisfying. The obtained results showed the possibility of producing an emulsion with interesterified fat application as a formulation for atopic skin care. Its physical characteristics showed stability of the dispersion. However, parameters such as color, smoothing, cushion effect, and absorption should be improved.

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来源期刊
Journal of cosmetic science
Journal of cosmetic science 工程技术-皮肤病学
CiteScore
0.90
自引率
0.00%
发文量
26
期刊介绍: The JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE (JCS) publishes papers concerned with cosmetics, cosmetic products, fragrances, their formulation and their effects in skin care or in overall consumer well-being, as well as papers relating to the sciences underlying cosmetics, such as human skin physiology, color physics, physical chemistry of colloids and emulsions, or psychological effects of olfaction in humans. Papers of interest to the cosmetic industry and to the understanding of the cosmetic markets are also welcome for publication.
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