溶剂对三种有机紫外滤光剂体外防晒系数及广谱防护的影响

IF 0.2 4区 医学 Q4 CHEMISTRY, APPLIED Journal of cosmetic science Pub Date : 2020-05-01
Mariam Abou-Dahech, Allison Schaefer, Laura Lam-Phaure, A N Huynh, Mark Chandler, Gabriella Baki
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引用次数: 0

摘要

溶剂对紫外滤光片的性能起着至关重要的作用。本研究的目的是了解三种有机紫外线过滤器(homosalate, ethylhexyl水杨酸酯和butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane)及其组合的体外防晒系数(SPF)和广谱保护如何受到溶剂的影响。根据成分活性间隙选取24种溶剂进行测试。配制了紫外滤光剂和溶剂的混合物,并对其体外SPF、最大吸光度波长、广谱防护和涂抹性进行了评价。结果表明,溶剂可显著提高有机防晒霜的体外SPF值。在本研究中,仅依赖溶解度数据并不是一个好的方法。最有效的溶剂具有多种相似的结构特征,包括酯键、共轭结构、芳香环和-CN基团;然而,缺少这些结构元素并不一定妨碍溶剂成为助推器。在UVA范围内,大多数溶剂的最大吸光度波长发生了明显的位移,而在UVB范围内,几乎没有观察到位移。本研究的结果提供了实用的信息,可以指导防晒霜配方选择溶剂的紫外线过滤器和更有效的防晒霜。
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Effect of Solvents on the In Vitro Sun Protection Factor and Broad-Spectrum Protection of Three Organic UV Filters.

Solvents play an essential role in the performance of ultraviolet (UV) filters. The goal of this study was to understand how the in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) and broad-spectrum protection of three organic UV filters (homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane) and a combination of these are influenced by solvents. Twenty-four solvents were selected based on the ingredient active gap for testing. Mixtures of UV filters and solvents were formulated, and in vitro SPF, wavelength of maximum absorbance, broad-spectrum protection, and spreadability were evaluated. Results indicate that in vitro SPF of organic sunscreens can be significantly enhanced by solvents. Relying on solubility data only was not found to be a good approach in this study. The most efficient solvents shared multiple similar structural characteristics, including ester bonds, conjugated structure, aromatic rings, and -CN groups; however, the absence of some of these structural elements did not necessarily prevent a solvent from being a booster. The wavelength of maximum absorbance was significantly shifted in the UVA range by most solvents, whereas minimal or no shift was observed in the UVB range. Results of this study provide practical information that can guide sunscreen formulators in selecting solvents for UV filters and making more effective sunscreens.

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来源期刊
Journal of cosmetic science
Journal of cosmetic science 工程技术-皮肤病学
CiteScore
0.90
自引率
0.00%
发文量
26
期刊介绍: The JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE (JCS) publishes papers concerned with cosmetics, cosmetic products, fragrances, their formulation and their effects in skin care or in overall consumer well-being, as well as papers relating to the sciences underlying cosmetics, such as human skin physiology, color physics, physical chemistry of colloids and emulsions, or psychological effects of olfaction in humans. Papers of interest to the cosmetic industry and to the understanding of the cosmetic markets are also welcome for publication.
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