着装守则:通过弗朗西斯-伯尼的《伊夫林娜:或一位年轻女士的入世史》(1778 年)解读十八世纪伦敦的性别与时尚

Elif GUVENDİ YALCİN
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摘要

时尚仅仅被视为个人喜好的展示,而它却提供了关于社会标准、文化变迁和身份构建的深刻视角。服装是反映和表达复杂的社会动态、规范和身份变化的媒介,尤其是在重大的文化转变时期。在 18 世纪的英国,时尚产业在消费主义的推动下经历了巨大的变革,这一时期揭示了社会性别角色与时尚潮流之间的重要关系。女性通常被描绘成反复无常、难以捉摸的形象,但她们却成为时尚最狂热的拥护者,将时尚的短暂性演绎得淋漓尽致。本文以弗朗西斯-伯尼(Frances Burney)的名作《埃维利娜:或一位年轻女士的入世史》(1778 年)为主要参考文献,探讨 18 世纪伦敦时尚与性别角色之间错综复杂的关系。这个时代的时尚不仅仅是一种装饰手段,它与当时的社会规范和标准有着千丝万缕的联系。通过研究《伊夫林娜》(1778 年)中的服装选择,本研究旨在揭示当时严格的性别习俗,并展示时尚在维护社会期望方面的关键作用。从本质上讲,这项研究超越了服装的物理层面,揭示了 18 世纪伦敦盛行的严格的性别习俗。它揭示了通常被视为肤浅的时尚是如何成为反映和形成社会标准和规范的关键因素的。
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Dress Codes: Deciphering Gender and Fashion in Eighteenth-Century London Through Frances Burney's Evelina; or the History of a Young Lady's Entrance into the World (1778)
Fashion is regarded simply as a display of individual preference, while it offers deep perspectives on social standards, cultural shifts, and the identity construction. Clothing is a medium for reflecting and expressing complex social dynamics, norms, and changes in identity, particularly during significant cultural shifts. In 18th-century Britain, the fashion industry experienced considerable transformation, driven by increased consumerism, and this period revealed a critical relationship between gender roles in society and fashion trends. Women, usually portrayed as erratic and unpredictable, emerged as the most ardent fans of fashion, personifying its transient nature. This paper examines the intricate bond between fashion and gender roles in 18th century London by using Frances Burney's well-known work Evelina; or the History of a Young Lady's Entrance into the World (1778) as a primary reference. Fashion during this era was not merely a means of decoration; it was inextricably linked to the prevailing social norms and standards. By studying the clothing choices in Evelina (1778), this research aims to expose the rigorous gender conventions of the period and demonstrate fashion's critical role in upholding societal expectations. Essentially, this study goes beyond the physical layers of clothing to uncover the stringent gender conventions prevalent in 18th-century London. It reveals how fashion, typically considered superficial, is a pivotal factor in reflecting and forming societal standards and norms.
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