RINGL + PIT: (UN)FIGURING THE NEW WOMAN

The photography of Ellen Auerbach and Grete Stern of the studio ringl + pit consistently shirks established formulae of advertising. The emphases on traditional gender roles and an exaggerated femininity in conventional Weimar advertisements reaffirm heterosexual male desire, and attempt to combat the development of the modern female ‘type’ into the independent and androgynous männliche Frau, or masculine woman. The disparity between media-constructed Weimar-era femininity and the actual ways in which Germans at this time understood their own selves as women and individuals is evidenced by Auerbach and Stern’s advertisements, which challenge such objectifying and sexualizing imagery by suggestive figures in the absence of real bodies, formed from the very goods being sold.This article examines how ringl + pit’s advertisements for artificial silk and other new commercially-available goods use substitution techniques to suggest a desire to create one’s own self, while acknowledging the power of the commodity in identity formation. Stern and Auerbach’s photographs work as a reflection of their own understanding of the power of the commodity whose uncanny beauty is revealed through intense focus and surprising reconfigurations. Their intense focus on materiality and their revisioning of such materials suggest connotations beyond the material being photographed. Ringl + pit’s advertisements become semi-blank receptacles that allow numerous modern women, and even non-binary and queer individuals, to see themselves represented as possible consumers for such products, and thus be in control their own identities and images.