面向现代性:20世纪初日本妇女与卫生面相文化

Jennifer Evans
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摘要

本文旨在捕捉近代早期日本出现的一个独立的历史时刻——“洁面文化”或“洁面艺术”(以下简称“洁面艺术”)。1从1905年到20世纪20年代末,洁面文化是日本中上层女性生活的一个重要特征,它既是向上流动的职业选择,也是富裕阶层的一种国际休闲形式。“biganjutsu”一词最初指的是一种用电振动机器进行面部按摩的方法,后来逐渐包括整容手术、头发、指甲和其他皮肤延伸的护理,以及化妆和时尚建议。从美国传入并在整个欧洲实践的卫生面部文化标志着日本早期参与了国际美容对话,其边界由现代生物医学的生理话语设定目前对“比颜术”的探索为20世纪早期日本的更大历史做出了贡献,它为我们提供了批判性的见解,让我们了解在一个快速转型的社会中,中上层阶级女性是如何被不断变化的美容实践所塑造和塑造的。了解“比干之术”对于探索现代日本女性与消费之间的联系尤其有用。在二十世纪早期,媒体大肆渲染了biganjuts——将其呈现为超现代和可疑的
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Facing Modernity: Japanese Women and Hygienic Facial Culture (Biganjutsu) in the Early Twentieth Century
This article aims to capture a discrete historical moment—the emergence of “hygienic facial culture” or eisei biganjutsu (hereafter referred to as biganjutsu, the art or technique of the beautiful face)—in early modern Japan.1 Hygienic facial culture was an important feature of middleand upper-class Japanese women’s lives from 1905 to the late 1920s, and it was both a professional career option for the upwardly mobile and a form of cosmopolitan leisure for the wealthy. Originally denoting a method of facial massage performed with electrovibratory machines, the term biganjutsu eventually came to include cosmetic surgery, care of the hair, nails, and other extensions of the skin, as well as makeup application and fashion advice. Imported from the United States and practiced throughout Europe, hygienic facial culture marks Japan’s early participation in an international beauty dialogue whose boundaries were set by the physiological discourse of modern biomedicine.2 The present exploration of biganjutsu contributes to the larger history of early twentieth-century Japan by providing critical insight into how middle and upper-class women shaped and were shaped by changing beauty practices in a rapidly transforming society. An understanding of biganjutsu is particularly useful for exploring the connections between women and consumption in modern Japan. In the early twentieth century, the media sensationalized biganjutsu—presenting it both as ultra-modern and questionably
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