首页 > 最新文献

Sustainability in Fashion -最新文献

英文 中文
Slow Fashion Concept Upcycled Kimonos as Recycle-oriented Cultural Sustainability 慢时尚概念升级和服作为可循环的文化可持续性
Pub Date : 2020-06-30 DOI: 10.31274/susfashion.11487
Minako McCarthy, Takako Hayashi
Ecological and sustainable ideas have inherently been present in kimono culture within the Japanese lifestyle (Okazaki, 2015). The individual households still have large quantities of high-quality sit kimonos: these have sold at second-hand shops (Valk, 2018). Today, old kimonos and obi sashes are used to reinvent stylish garments and accessaries (Assmann, 2008), which idea is called up cycling. The purpose of this study is to examine the kimono epicycle practice in the young generation in Japan. UNESCO's sustainable development is used as a theoretical framework. The participants were 155 college students in a national women's university in Japan. One of the findings showed that students were less likely to epicycle kimonos than western garments. The results imply that various students encounter technical challenges remaking into garments. Nevertheless, upcycling kimonos could become the next leading sustainable development among Japanese people since they characteristically have a recycle-oriented culture.
生态和可持续的理念在日本的生活方式中固有地存在于和服文化中(Okazaki, 2015)。个人家庭仍然拥有大量高质量的坐式和服:这些在二手商店出售(Valk, 2018)。今天,旧的和服和宽腰带被用来重塑时尚的服装和配饰(Assmann, 2008),这个想法被称为自行车。本研究的目的是考察日本年轻一代的和服循环实践。将教科文组织的可持续发展作为理论框架。研究对象是日本一所国立女子大学的155名大学生。其中一项研究发现,与西式服装相比,学生们不太可能循环使用和服。结果表明,不同的学生在重新制作服装时遇到了技术上的挑战。然而,升级回收的和服可能会成为日本人的下一个可持续发展的主导,因为他们具有典型的以回收为导向的文化。
{"title":"Slow Fashion Concept Upcycled Kimonos as Recycle-oriented Cultural Sustainability","authors":"Minako McCarthy, Takako Hayashi","doi":"10.31274/susfashion.11487","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.31274/susfashion.11487","url":null,"abstract":"Ecological and sustainable ideas have inherently been present in kimono culture within the Japanese lifestyle (Okazaki, 2015). The individual households still have large quantities of high-quality sit kimonos: these have sold at second-hand shops (Valk, 2018). Today, old kimonos and obi sashes are used to reinvent stylish garments and accessaries (Assmann, 2008), which idea is called up cycling. The purpose of this study is to examine the kimono epicycle practice in the young generation in Japan. UNESCO's sustainable development is used as a theoretical framework. The participants were 155 college students in a national women's university in Japan. One of the findings showed that students were less likely to epicycle kimonos than western garments. The results imply that various students encounter technical challenges remaking into garments. Nevertheless, upcycling kimonos could become the next leading sustainable development among Japanese people since they characteristically have a recycle-oriented culture.","PeriodicalId":350595,"journal":{"name":"Sustainability in Fashion -","volume":"1 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2020-06-30","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"130624451","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Buy stuff, do good, save the world: Transitivity and interpellation in the sustainable fashion discourse 买东西,做好事,拯救世界:可持续时尚话语中的及物性和质询
Pub Date : 2020-06-30 DOI: 10.31274/susfashion.11467
Joseph P. Jones, K. Jones
Meaning production via mass media discursive practice is a complex social process, through which viewers and readers are interpellated as subjects (Fiske, 2004). Interpellation is the act of “hailing” these subjects into predetermined identities (i.e. sustainable fashion consumer) but can simultaneously “naturalize” predominate ideological frameworks (e.g. capitalism, heteronormativity, patriarchy, etc.) (Althusser, 2006). Whether a subject can resist interpellation is a matter of some debate. Who has the power to act, to speak, to resist, is naturalized through discourse (Fiske, 2004; Foucault, 1981). In this position paper, we examine sustainable fashion discursive practices in the popular press through the lens of Foucault’s conception of power dynamics as well as Fiske’s and Althusser’s interpellation theories. Thus, we will explore the most pressing issues of agency, transitivity,1 and the limited imagination present in fashion media’s discursive practice.
通过大众媒介话语实践的意义生产是一个复杂的社会过程,通过这个过程,观众和读者作为主体被询问(Fiske, 2004)。质询是将这些主体“召唤”为预定身份(即可持续时尚消费者)的行为,但同时可以“自然化”主导的意识形态框架(例如资本主义,异性规范,父权制等)(Althusser, 2006)。一个主体是否能抵抗质询是一个有争议的问题。谁有能力行动、说话、反抗,谁就会通过话语归化(Fiske, 2004;福柯,1981)。在这篇立场论文中,我们通过福柯的权力动力学概念以及菲斯克和阿尔都塞的质询理论来研究大众媒体中的可持续时尚话语实践。因此,我们将探讨代理、及物性、1以及时尚媒体话语实践中存在的有限想象力等最紧迫的问题。
{"title":"Buy stuff, do good, save the world: Transitivity and interpellation in the sustainable fashion discourse","authors":"Joseph P. Jones, K. Jones","doi":"10.31274/susfashion.11467","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.31274/susfashion.11467","url":null,"abstract":"Meaning production via mass media discursive practice is a complex social process, through which viewers and readers are interpellated as subjects (Fiske, 2004). Interpellation is the act of “hailing” these subjects into predetermined identities (i.e. sustainable fashion consumer) but can simultaneously “naturalize” predominate ideological frameworks (e.g. capitalism, heteronormativity, patriarchy, etc.) (Althusser, 2006). Whether a subject can resist interpellation is a matter of some debate. Who has the power to act, to speak, to resist, is naturalized through discourse (Fiske, 2004; Foucault, 1981). In this position paper, we examine sustainable fashion discursive practices in the popular press through the lens of Foucault’s conception of power dynamics as well as Fiske’s and Althusser’s interpellation theories. Thus, we will explore the most pressing issues of agency, transitivity,1 and the limited imagination present in fashion media’s discursive practice.","PeriodicalId":350595,"journal":{"name":"Sustainability in Fashion -","volume":"13 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2020-06-30","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"121869365","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
The consumer’s perspective: Care and maintenance in ‘use phase’ of clothing apparel life cycle 消费者视角:服装生命周期“使用阶段”的保养与保养
Pub Date : 2020-06-30 DOI: 10.31274/susfashion.11521
Courtney Barbour, G. Hustvedt, Michelle Burton, R. Eike
The growing world population and rising living standards that drive consumer demands have driven the global apparel and textile (AT) industry to become one of the largest industrial complexes on the planet. The global web of AT production, lack of industry standards, and rampant consumerism have all contributed to the large amount of waste within the AT industry. Lifecycle analysis has demonstrated that the largest single factor contributing to AT waste production occurs within the ‘use phase’ of a product’s life cycle. This waste includes energy and waste developed from care (laundering) and maintenance (mending and disposal). Limited research exists on consumer perceptions and practices on quality and care of clothing with the specific goal of understanding how consumer behavior during the ‘use phase’ drives disposal or reuse practices that impact sustainability. Results from this study can be used to increase consumers’ awareness of the impact their behavior, including creative reuse or resale could have on reducing the carbon footprint of their clothing consumption.
不断增长的世界人口和不断提高的生活水平推动了消费需求,推动了全球服装和纺织(AT)行业成为地球上最大的工业综合体之一。AT生产的全球网络,缺乏行业标准,以及猖獗的消费主义都导致了AT行业的大量浪费。生命周期分析表明,在产品生命周期的“使用阶段”中,产生AT废物的最大单一因素。这种废物包括从护理(清洗)和维护(修理和处置)中产生的能源和废物。关于消费者对服装质量和护理的看法和实践的研究有限,其具体目标是了解消费者在“使用阶段”的行为如何推动影响可持续性的处置或再利用实践。这项研究的结果可以用来提高消费者对他们的行为的影响的认识,包括创造性的再利用或转售可以减少他们的服装消费的碳足迹。
{"title":"The consumer’s perspective: Care and maintenance in ‘use phase’ of clothing apparel life cycle","authors":"Courtney Barbour, G. Hustvedt, Michelle Burton, R. Eike","doi":"10.31274/susfashion.11521","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.31274/susfashion.11521","url":null,"abstract":"The growing world population and rising living standards that drive consumer demands have driven the global apparel and textile (AT) industry to become one of the largest industrial complexes on the planet. The global web of AT production, lack of industry standards, and rampant consumerism have all contributed to the large amount of waste within the AT industry. Lifecycle analysis has demonstrated that the largest single factor contributing to AT waste production occurs within the ‘use phase’ of a product’s life cycle. This waste includes energy and waste developed from care (laundering) and maintenance (mending and disposal). Limited research exists on consumer perceptions and practices on quality and care of clothing with the specific goal of understanding how consumer behavior during the ‘use phase’ drives disposal or reuse practices that impact sustainability. Results from this study can be used to increase consumers’ awareness of the impact their behavior, including creative reuse or resale could have on reducing the carbon footprint of their clothing consumption.","PeriodicalId":350595,"journal":{"name":"Sustainability in Fashion -","volume":"195 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2020-06-30","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"132102801","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 1
Understanding the role of sustainability in social ventures 了解可持续发展在社会企业中的作用
Pub Date : 2020-06-30 DOI: 10.31274/susfashion.11470
Sally L. Fortenberry, S. Reddy
Case study methodology is used to investigate two small alternative (SAFs) fashion enterprises located in Fort Worth, Texas, U.S.A., that have identified environmental and social sustainability as key elements to compete and to survive in the market. Data sources included personal interviews, reviews of websites, personal observations and examination of products. A purposeful sample of two local companies, both which identify themselves as sustainable social ventures, were selected for the case study. Given the exploratory nature of this study, the research is based on the definition by Yin (2003), a case study “investigates a contemporary phenomenon within its real-life context, especially when the boundaries between phenomenon and context are not clearly evident”. The business model presented in the Caniato, Cardi, Crippa and Moretta (2011) research is used as a framework for investigating practices and measurable performance used by the two small alternative firms. These include drivers, as adapted from De Brito et al (2008); practices, classified according to a three-dimensional framework identified by Fine (1998); and performance indicators based on the criteria that companies are trying to improve through the adoption of sustainable practices.
案例研究方法用于调查位于美国德克萨斯州沃斯堡的两家小型替代(SAFs)时尚企业,这些企业已将环境和社会可持续性确定为在市场上竞争和生存的关键因素。数据来源包括个人访谈、网站评论、个人观察和产品检验。有目的的两个本地公司的样本,都认为自己是可持续的社会企业,被选择为案例研究。鉴于本研究的探索性,本研究基于Yin(2003)的定义,该案例研究“在现实语境中调查当代现象,特别是当现象与语境之间的界限并不明显时”。Caniato, Cardi, Crippa和Moretta(2011)研究中提出的商业模式被用作调查两个小型替代公司使用的实践和可衡量绩效的框架。这些因素包括司机,改编自De Brito等人(2008);实践,根据Fine(1998)确定的三维框架进行分类;绩效指标是基于公司试图通过采用可持续实践来改进的标准。
{"title":"Understanding the role of sustainability in social ventures","authors":"Sally L. Fortenberry, S. Reddy","doi":"10.31274/susfashion.11470","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.31274/susfashion.11470","url":null,"abstract":"Case study methodology is used to investigate two small alternative (SAFs) fashion enterprises located in Fort Worth, Texas, U.S.A., that have identified environmental and social sustainability as key elements to compete and to survive in the market. Data sources included personal interviews, reviews of websites, personal observations and examination of products. A purposeful sample of two local companies, both which identify themselves as sustainable social ventures, were selected for the case study. Given the exploratory nature of this study, the research is based on the definition by Yin (2003), a case study “investigates a contemporary phenomenon within its real-life context, especially when the boundaries between phenomenon and context are not clearly evident”. The business model presented in the Caniato, Cardi, Crippa and Moretta (2011) research is used as a framework for investigating practices and measurable performance used by the two small alternative firms. These include drivers, as adapted from De Brito et al (2008); practices, classified according to a three-dimensional framework identified by Fine (1998); and performance indicators based on the criteria that companies are trying to improve through the adoption of sustainable practices.","PeriodicalId":350595,"journal":{"name":"Sustainability in Fashion -","volume":"37 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2020-06-30","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"133346925","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Dissemination of textile and apparel environmental information on Facebook 在Facebook上传播纺织和服装环境信息
Pub Date : 2020-06-30 DOI: 10.31274/susfashion.11478
Melody Lehew, S. Patwary
Textile and apparel (TA) industry is being highly criticized for its negative impact on the environment (Quantis, 2018). A combined effort from all major stakeholders of the TA supply chain is imperative to reduce the harmful impact of the industry. However, without conscious and active participation of the consumers, the effort of cleaning up the TA supply chain might be hindered. Facebook, a popular social networking site platform of information generation and dissemination, can play an important role in making conscious consumer. The purpose of this study was to investigate what formats and the contents of TA industry-related environmental information posted on a Facebook page leads to a higher level of engagement.
纺织和服装(TA)行业因其对环境的负面影响而受到高度批评(Quantis, 2018)。TA供应链的所有主要利益相关者必须共同努力,以减少该行业的有害影响。然而,如果没有消费者的自觉和积极参与,TA供应链的清理工作可能会受到阻碍。Facebook作为一个流行的信息生成和传播的社交网站平台,可以在有意识的消费者中发挥重要作用。本研究的目的是调查在Facebook页面上发布的TA行业相关环境信息的格式和内容会导致更高的参与度。
{"title":"Dissemination of textile and apparel environmental information on Facebook","authors":"Melody Lehew, S. Patwary","doi":"10.31274/susfashion.11478","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.31274/susfashion.11478","url":null,"abstract":"Textile and apparel (TA) industry is being highly criticized for its negative impact on the environment (Quantis, 2018). A combined effort from all major stakeholders of the TA supply chain is imperative to reduce the harmful impact of the industry. However, without conscious and active participation of the consumers, the effort of cleaning up the TA supply chain might be hindered. Facebook, a popular social networking site platform of information generation and dissemination, can play an important role in making conscious consumer. The purpose of this study was to investigate what formats and the contents of TA industry-related environmental information posted on a Facebook page leads to a higher level of engagement.","PeriodicalId":350595,"journal":{"name":"Sustainability in Fashion -","volume":"117 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2020-06-30","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"132354127","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
期刊
Sustainability in Fashion -
全部 Acc. Chem. Res. ACS Applied Bio Materials ACS Appl. Electron. Mater. ACS Appl. Energy Mater. ACS Appl. Mater. Interfaces ACS Appl. Nano Mater. ACS Appl. Polym. Mater. ACS BIOMATER-SCI ENG ACS Catal. ACS Cent. Sci. ACS Chem. Biol. ACS Chemical Health & Safety ACS Chem. Neurosci. ACS Comb. Sci. ACS Earth Space Chem. ACS Energy Lett. ACS Infect. Dis. ACS Macro Lett. ACS Mater. Lett. ACS Med. Chem. Lett. ACS Nano ACS Omega ACS Photonics ACS Sens. ACS Sustainable Chem. Eng. ACS Synth. Biol. Anal. Chem. BIOCHEMISTRY-US Bioconjugate Chem. BIOMACROMOLECULES Chem. Res. Toxicol. Chem. Rev. Chem. Mater. CRYST GROWTH DES ENERG FUEL Environ. Sci. Technol. Environ. Sci. Technol. Lett. Eur. J. Inorg. Chem. IND ENG CHEM RES Inorg. Chem. J. Agric. Food. Chem. J. Chem. Eng. Data J. Chem. Educ. J. Chem. Inf. Model. J. Chem. Theory Comput. J. Med. Chem. J. Nat. Prod. J PROTEOME RES J. Am. Chem. Soc. LANGMUIR MACROMOLECULES Mol. Pharmaceutics Nano Lett. Org. Lett. ORG PROCESS RES DEV ORGANOMETALLICS J. Org. Chem. J. Phys. Chem. J. Phys. Chem. A J. Phys. Chem. B J. Phys. Chem. C J. Phys. Chem. Lett. Analyst Anal. Methods Biomater. Sci. Catal. Sci. Technol. Chem. Commun. Chem. Soc. Rev. CHEM EDUC RES PRACT CRYSTENGCOMM Dalton Trans. Energy Environ. Sci. ENVIRON SCI-NANO ENVIRON SCI-PROC IMP ENVIRON SCI-WAT RES Faraday Discuss. Food Funct. Green Chem. Inorg. Chem. Front. Integr. Biol. J. Anal. At. Spectrom. J. Mater. Chem. A J. Mater. Chem. B J. Mater. Chem. C Lab Chip Mater. Chem. Front. Mater. Horiz. MEDCHEMCOMM Metallomics Mol. Biosyst. Mol. Syst. Des. Eng. Nanoscale Nanoscale Horiz. Nat. Prod. Rep. New J. Chem. Org. Biomol. Chem. Org. Chem. Front. PHOTOCH PHOTOBIO SCI PCCP Polym. Chem.
×
引用
GB/T 7714-2015
复制
MLA
复制
APA
复制
导出至
BibTeX EndNote RefMan NoteFirst NoteExpress
×
0
微信
客服QQ
Book学术公众号 扫码关注我们
反馈
×
意见反馈
请填写您的意见或建议
请填写您的手机或邮箱
×
提示
您的信息不完整,为了账户安全,请先补充。
现在去补充
×
提示
您因"违规操作"
具体请查看互助需知
我知道了
×
提示
现在去查看 取消
×
提示
确定
Book学术官方微信
Book学术文献互助
Book学术文献互助群
群 号:481959085
Book学术
文献互助 智能选刊 最新文献 互助须知 联系我们:info@booksci.cn
Book学术提供免费学术资源搜索服务,方便国内外学者检索中英文文献。致力于提供最便捷和优质的服务体验。
Copyright © 2023 Book学术 All rights reserved.
ghs 京公网安备 11010802042870号 京ICP备2023020795号-1