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Clothing – A Mark of Noble Identity in Early Modern Transylvania (II) 服装——近代早期特兰西瓦尼亚贵族身份的标志(二)
Pub Date : 2023-01-30 DOI: 10.54145/actamn.59.02
Mária Lupescu Makó
For a long time, it was the garment that gave the person individuality. Once the costume was lost, the identity was lost. Clothing is, therefore, one of the essential markers of social convention, with each part of the population being assigned a specific role and place, easily recognizable by shape and color. The symbolism of clothing articles, with a very different cut and color range, could immediately be interpreted by the contemporaries. Based on the last wills of the Transylvanian nobility, this study proposes to examine the role of clothes as status indicator, or the social role of noble men’s clothing in the late sixteenth century and the first half of the seventeenth century in Transylvania. From a structural point of view, the study continues the topics addressed in the first part, discussing issues concerning the value of white clothing and women’s attire in terms of rank and status in society.
很长一段时间,是服装赋予了人个性。一旦服装丢失,身份也就丢失了。因此,服装是社会习俗的重要标志之一,人口的每一部分都被赋予了特定的角色和地位,很容易通过形状和颜色来识别。服装的象征意义,具有非常不同的剪裁和颜色范围,可以立即被同时代的人解读。本研究以特兰西瓦尼亚贵族的最后遗嘱为基础,拟考察服饰作为身份标志的作用,或16世纪末至17世纪上半叶特兰西瓦尼亚贵族男性服饰的社会作用。从结构的角度来看,本研究延续了第一部分的主题,讨论了白色服装和女性服装在社会地位和地位方面的价值问题。
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