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The future of cosmeceuticals 药妆的未来
Pub Date : 2023-11-17 DOI: 10.1002/der2.219
Maya Firsowicz, Delfina Bur, Ted Lain
The present state of skincare addresses the consequences of photodamage, hormonal influences, and the cumulative impact of exposome exposure throughout a person's life. Treatments within the aesthetic domain either harness biological pathways to achieve rejuvenation, such as retinoids and antioxidants, or suppress them, like lightening ingredients. Emerging advancements encompass techniques that stimulate the differentiation of stem cells to generate younger keratinocytes and fibroblasts, activate macrophages to diminish proinflammatory cellular waste, and restore glycosaminoglycans within the dermal matrix. While these innovations have significantly enhanced the potential of skincare to revitalize the skin in recent years, obstacles to their adoption remain substantial, including complex multistep regimens, the elevated cost of novel technologies, and limited accessibility for a majority of consumers. The next phase of skincare innovation targets the root cause of aging, at the genetic and epigenetic level. By reversing the effect of the exposome at this level, it is conceivable that biological age and chronological age might no longer correlate. Additionally, the integration of artificial intelligence, the identification of biomarkers, and improved accessibility to genetic predisposition lab testing will combine to allow for greater personalization of skincare recommendations.
目前的护肤品主要针对光损伤、荷尔蒙影响以及人一生中暴露于暴露体的累积影响所造成的后果。美容领域的治疗方法要么利用生物途径(如维甲酸和抗氧化剂)来实现年轻化,要么抑制生物途径(如美白成分)。新出现的先进技术包括刺激干细胞分化以生成更年轻的角质细胞和成纤维细胞、激活巨噬细胞以减少促炎细胞废物,以及恢复真皮基质中的糖胺聚糖。近年来,这些创新技术大大提高了护肤品焕发肌肤活力的潜力,但采用这些技术的障碍仍然很大,包括复杂的多步骤疗法、新技术成本高昂以及大多数消费者难以获得这些技术。下一阶段的护肤品创新将从基因和表观遗传学层面解决衰老的根本原因。通过在这一层面逆转暴露组的影响,可以想象,生物年龄和时间年龄可能不再相关。此外,人工智能的整合、生物标志物的识别以及基因倾向实验室测试的更易获取性,将使护肤建议更加个性化。
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Dermatological Reviews
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