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Rheology Control of Cosmetics Using Aqueous Tickeners 化妆品用水性表征剂的流变性控制
Pub Date : 2018-12-20 DOI: 10.5107/SCCJ.52.251
Ayano Nakamura
Aqueous thickeners play an important role in both functional and sensory aspects of cosmetic formulas. We report our attempts to use microgels as intelligent aqueous thickeners and quantify the texture of the cosmetic, by using the rheological properties. Agar microgel dispersion prepared from agar bulk-gel was then granulated by a high-speed mixer (5000 rpm). Another microgel was created with an inverse microemulsion polymerization system. The thickening effect of the microgel prepared by using this system was higher than that of the agar microgel. The flow characteristic parameters of the microgels were analyzed by using the Herschel-Bulkley equation. The power index n in the H-B eq. revealed that both the microgels were expected to give a refreshing-feeling. Flow properties of cosmetic lotions, containing various kinds of aqueous thickeners, were studied by creep measurement, and parameters were calculated from their rheological data based on the empirical Nutting equation. There was some correlation between the time dependency parameter a and some sensory evaluation points, as assessed by human panels. Simple linear regression analysis revealed that the evaluation scores of slimy-feeling, sticky-feeling, refreshing-feeling, and penetrating-feeling cosmetic lotions could be reduced to numerical data by the parameter a. This quantification method for the texture of cosmetic products will be a useful tool for efficient development of cosmetic formulas.
水性增稠剂在化妆品配方的功能和感官方面都起着重要的作用。我们报告了我们尝试使用微凝胶作为智能水性增稠剂,并通过使用流变特性来量化化妆品的质地。由琼脂体凝胶制备的琼脂微凝胶分散体,然后通过高速混合器(5000 rpm)造粒。用反相微乳液聚合体系制备了另一种微凝胶。用该体系制备的微凝胶的增稠效果高于琼脂微凝胶。利用Herschel-Bulkley方程分析了微凝胶的流动特性参数。H-B方程的幂指数n表明,这两种微凝胶都有望给人一种清爽的感觉。采用蠕变法研究了含各种水性增稠剂的化妆品乳液的流动特性,并根据经验纳廷方程计算了其流变学参数。时间依赖参数a与一些感官评价点之间存在一定的相关性,如人体小组评估的那样。简单的线性回归分析结果表明,通过参数a可以将化妆品质地的评价分数简化为数值数据。这种化妆品质地的量化方法将为化妆品配方的高效开发提供有用的工具。
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引用次数: 0
Research on the Advanced Bioavailability of Extruded Colloidal Oatmeal 膨化胶体燕麦的高级生物利用度研究
Pub Date : 2018-12-20 DOI: 10.5107/SCCJ.52.269
N. Yoshida, Masamitsu Urakawa, Atsushi Oodaira, M. Goto
Oatmeal is the food product resulting from the grinding or rolling of oat grain (Avena sativa L.) (which is thus crushed into thin flakes)after dehulling. Further, the finely milled product is referred to as colloidal oatmeal (COM). Oat grain has natural phytochemicals such as phenolic compounds, tocols, and polysaccharides. They lead to anti-irritancy, redness reduction and moisturization effects for humans. For that reason, COM was traditionally used as a bath treatment or skincare ingredient in Europe and the United States. In this research, we compared extruded colloidal oatmeal (ExtCOM)which added a hydrothermal process before fine milling and ordinary COM in terms of particle size distribution, b -glucan content and DPPH radical quenching activity. As a result, ExtCOM has a smaller particle size and enhanced content of both b -glucan and antioxidant elucidated in water. We concluded that the difference is due to the extrusion process, which affects mainly the physiological structure of oat grain. This result is expected to strongly improve the bioavailability of COM as a healthcare ingredient.
燕麦片是将燕麦(Avena sativa L.)磨碎或碾压后脱壳而成的食品(因此被压成薄片)。此外,细磨产品被称为胶体燕麦片(COM)。燕麦含有天然的植物化学物质,如酚类化合物、工具和多糖。它们对人体有抗刺激、减少红肿和保湿的作用。因此,在欧洲和美国,COM传统上被用作沐浴治疗或护肤成分。在本研究中,我们比较了在细磨前加入水热工艺的挤压型胶体燕麦(ExtCOM)与普通燕麦在粒度分布、b -葡聚糖含量和DPPH自由基淬灭活性方面的差异。因此,ExtCOM具有更小的粒径,提高了b -葡聚糖和抗氧化剂在水中的含量。我们认为,这种差异是由于挤压过程造成的,挤压过程主要影响了燕麦籽粒的生理结构。这一结果有望大大提高COM作为保健成分的生物利用度。
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引用次数: 0
High Skin Hydration and Comfortable Texture of a Moisturizing Lotion Fulfilled by Controlling the Phase Sequence of a Vesicle/Micelle Complex 通过控制囊泡/胶束复合物的相序实现高皮肤水合性和舒适质地的保湿乳液
Pub Date : 2018-12-20 DOI: 10.5107/SCCJ.52.260
Kei Watanabe, M. Nishida, Kanako Nishimura, Yoriko Mune, Yuji Matsushita, Ayano Nakamura, K. Tsuchiya, H. Sakai, H. Hoffmann
The formation of micellar solutions with hydrophilic surfactants is generally used to include oily substances into transparent water-based formulae. However, a restriction exists on hydrophilic surfactants due to their sticky feeling arising from long hydrophilic groups. We found a stable transparent dispersion of a lipophilic polyether-modified silicone ( PEMS ) in combination with an ionic surfactant by a certain procedure. Various analyses revealed that it is a 10 ─ 100 nm sized vesicle / micelle complex consisting of bi-molecular membranes. Although there are several reports on the vesicle formation of PEMS, the practical stability has been insufficient because of the high fluidity of the membrane. The present vesicle / micelle complex can solubilize silicone oils, which have been considered difficult, resulting in a feature of good spreadability onto sur-faces. In addition to that, it shows a non-sticky, highly permeable feeling owing to the formation of a lamellar liquid crystalline phase by a water evaporation on application despite the high glycerol concentration. The present moisturizing lotion fulfilled mutually exclusive events of high skin hydration to prepare for future skincare items : a moisturizing lotion with an important func-tion and a highly comfortable texture.
与亲水性表面活性剂形成胶束溶液通常用于将油性物质纳入透明水基配方中。然而,亲水性表面活性剂由于其长亲水性基团产生的粘性而受到限制。我们通过一定的程序发现了一种稳定的亲脂聚醚改性有机硅(PEMS)与离子表面活性剂的透明分散体。各种分析表明,它是由双分子膜组成的10 ~ 100 nm大小的囊泡/胶束复合物。虽然有一些关于PEMS囊泡形成的报道,但由于膜的高流动性,其实际稳定性不足。所制备的囊泡/胶束复合物可以溶解硅油,从而使硅油具有良好的表面涂抹性。除此之外,尽管甘油浓度很高,但由于在应用时水蒸发形成了层状液晶相,因此它显示出一种不粘性,高度渗透性的感觉。目前的保湿乳液满足了高度皮肤水合作用的相互排斥的事件,为未来的护肤项目做准备:一种具有重要功能和高度舒适质地的保湿乳液。
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引用次数: 3
Skin Moisturizing Effect through the Stimulation of the Cornified Cell Envelope Formation by Bis-Glyceryl Ascorbate 双甘油抗坏血酸通过刺激角质细胞包膜形成的皮肤保湿效果
Pub Date : 2018-12-20 DOI: 10.5107/SCCJ.52.275
Misaki Doi, Sayaka Nakamura, N. Taira, Y. Katsuyama, H. Masaki, M. Yoshioka
Ascorbic acid ( AsA ) is well-known as a multifunctional water soluble vitamin that shows anti-pigmentation effects in epidermal melanocytes and stimulates collagen synthesis in dermal fibro-blasts. However, AsA has some disadvantages in cosmetic formulations since it is quite unstable in aqueous solutions and emulsions. To improve the stability of AsA in cosmetic formulations, we developed a novel AsA derivative, bis-glyceryl ascorbate ( VC-DG ) , which introduces 2 glycerol groups into AsA, and confirmed that VC-DG has a higher stability than AsA and maintains its bioactivities as well as AsA. In this study, we evaluated the skin moisturizing effects of VC-DG focusing on the cornified cell envelope ( CE ) to develop its unique biological activities. As the re-sults, VC-DG up-regulated the mRNA and protein expression levels of CE-related substances, such as involucrin, loricrin and transglutaminase-1, which in turn significantly increased CE formation in normal human epidermal keratinocytes. Additionally, topical application of VC-DG increased the protein expression levels of involucrin, loricrin and transglutaminase-1 in the spi-nous and / or granular cell layers of reconstructed human epidermal equivalents. In a human vol-unteer test, the application of VC-DG increased the skin surface water content. Therefore, we consider VC-DG to be an effective ingredient that improves skin hydration through enhancing CE formation.
抗坏血酸(AsA)是一种众所周知的多功能水溶性维生素,在表皮黑色素细胞中具有抗色素沉着作用,并刺激真皮成纤维细胞中的胶原合成。然而,AsA在化妆品配方中有一些缺点,因为它在水溶液和乳液中非常不稳定。为了提高AsA在化妆品配方中的稳定性,我们开发了一种新的AsA衍生物,双甘油酰抗坏血酸酯(VC-DG),它在AsA中引入了2个甘油基团,并证实VC-DG具有比AsA更高的稳定性,并且保持了AsA的生物活性。本研究以VC-DG为研究对象,对VC-DG的皮肤保湿作用进行了研究,以揭示VC-DG独特的生物活性。VC-DG上调CE相关物质如天花素、氯仿素和谷氨酰胺转胺酶-1的mRNA和蛋白表达水平,从而显著增加正常人表皮角化细胞CE的形成。此外,局部应用VC-DG增加了重建的人表皮等效物的刺状和/或颗粒状细胞层中天青苷、氯丙苷和转谷氨酰胺酶-1的蛋白表达水平。在人体志愿者试验中,VC-DG的应用增加了皮肤表面含水量。因此,我们认为VC-DG是一种通过促进CE形成来改善皮肤水合作用的有效成分。
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引用次数: 0
Effects of Basic Massage Techniques in Head Spa on Mind and Body 头部水疗基本按摩手法对身心的影响
Pub Date : 2018-09-20 DOI: 10.5107/SCCJ.52.187
T. Mannari, Kazunari Toda, Ogawa Shunsuke, Chisato Sato, Reiko Nakashima, Hiroshi Hosokawa, Hideo Ohnishi
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引用次数: 0
The Rule of the “Lovely Face” “可爱脸”法则
Pub Date : 2018-09-20 DOI: 10.5107/SCCJ.52.179
S. Ueda
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引用次数: 0
Development of a Powder with Water-Resistance and Easy-Wash-Off Properties Using Poly (Trimethylene Carbonate) Derivatives and Its Application to Cosmetics 聚碳酸三甲酯衍生物制备耐水易洗粉体及其在化妆品中的应用
Pub Date : 2018-09-20 DOI: 10.5107/SCCJ.52.197
C. Iwamoto, Ai Oyama, Takayuki Kumei, J. Watanabe
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引用次数: 0
Design Based on an Understanding of Human Characteristics 基于对人类特征理解的设计
Pub Date : 2018-06-20 DOI: 10.5107/SCCJ.52.85
A. Okada
With the evolution of society and the increasing trend of the philosophy of universal design, there is a demand for easy-to-use, comfortable, safety and health products for various types of users. Many universal design products have been developed based on ergonomics. However, many products are still not suitable for the users. The target users of universal design are not lim-ited to the elderly and disabled people. The barriers of individual differences in physiological and mental functions, knowledge and experience, cultures, languages, and lifestyles of users must be removed for making universal design products suitable for all users. The term “ universal design ” is defined as the design that aims to satisfy various users, in a fair and equitable manner, corre-sponding to their varied needs. Therefore, methods were developed to measure human physiological and mental characteristics and the needs of users. The human data acquired by such methods are indispensable for applying the design values of a universally usable product. The database comprising these human data was obtained to determine these design value. However, the raw data cited from this database should be converted into information that can be used for creating the appropriate design. Further, methods should be developed for interpreting and transforming such data, and the process of resolution should be clarified to apply the appropriate design values.
随着社会的发展和设计理念的通用化趋势不断增强,各类用户都对易于使用、舒适、安全、健康的产品产生了需求。许多通用设计产品都是基于人体工程学开发的。然而,许多产品仍然不适合用户。通用设计的目标用户不局限于老年人和残疾人。为了使通用设计产品适合所有用户,必须消除用户在生理和心理功能、知识和经验、文化、语言和生活方式等方面的个体差异。“通用设计”一词的定义是,旨在以公平和公平的方式满足不同用户的不同需求的设计。因此,开发了测量人类生理和心理特征以及用户需求的方法。通过这种方法获得的人类数据对于应用普遍可用的产品的设计价值是必不可少的。获得包含这些人体数据的数据库,以确定这些设计值。但是,应该将从该数据库中引用的原始数据转换为可用于创建适当设计的信息。此外,应制定解释和转换这些数据的方法,并应澄清解决的过程,以适用适当的设计值。
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引用次数: 0
New Water Soluble Lauroyl Lysine Derivative and Its Unique Physicochemical Properties for Cosmetics Applications 新型水溶性月桂酰赖氨酸衍生物及其在化妆品中的独特理化性质
Pub Date : 2018-06-20 DOI: 10.5107/SCCJ.52.92
S. Kobayashi, K. Tobita, E. Oshimura
N e -lauroyl lysine is an organic powder that is sparingly soluble in many kinds of cosmetic media. It is well known as a beneficial ingredient in various cosmetic applications ; its excellent lu-bricity, water-repellency and non-greasy emolliency make it an ideal ingredient especially for makeups. However, its use in liquid formulations has been restricted because its inherent hydro-phobicity makes it difficult to disperse in aqueous media. We developed derivatives of N e -lauroyl lysine to find a compound soluble in water, and studied its characteristics as a cosmetic ingredient. New bis ( N e -lauroyl lysine ) derivatives, which have gemini-type surfactant structures, composed of two N e -lauroyl lysines linked by alkylene chains of various lengths, were synthesized, and their properties in aqueous media were examined. We observed that a compound with an alkylene chain length of C10 ( labeled GE-10-LL ) formed hydrogel structured by a three-dimensional nanofiber network over a pH range of 5.0 ─ 7.0. Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy measurements re-vealed that GE-10-LL worked as a low molecular gelator, resulting in the formation of self-assem-bled nanofibers through hydrogen bonding. Additionally, GE-10-LL was observed to be an effec-tive foam booster for various foaming surfactants, and to be a sensory modifier with beneficial characteristics of the original N e -lauroyl lysine. In addition, GE-10-LL can easily form multilamellar vesicles ( MLVs ) with sterol ester. These MLVs can be prepared by stirring spontaneously, and they could encapsulate water-soluble active ingredients. We measured the penetration of MLVs into the stratum corneum using in vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy.
月桂酰赖氨酸是一种有机粉末,在许多化妆品介质中很少溶解。众所周知,它是各种化妆品应用中的有益成分;其优异的润滑性,疏水性和不油腻的润肤性使其成为化妆品的理想成分。然而,它在液体配方中的使用受到限制,因为其固有的疏水性使其难以在水介质中分散。我们开发了N -月桂酰赖氨酸的衍生物,找到了一种可溶于水的化合物,并研究了其作为化妆品成分的特性。合成了由两个不同长度的烷基链连接的N -月桂酰赖氨酸组成的双(N - e -月桂酰赖氨酸)新型双(N - e -月桂酰赖氨酸)表面活性剂,并对其在水介质中的性能进行了研究。我们观察到烷基烯链长为C10的化合物(标记为GE-10-LL)在pH值为5.0─7.0的条件下形成了三维纳米纤维网络结构的水凝胶。傅里叶变换红外光谱测量表明,GE-10-LL作为低分子凝胶剂,通过氢键形成自组装的纳米纤维。此外,GE-10-LL是多种发泡表面活性剂的有效增泡剂,是一种具有原N -月桂酰赖氨酸有益特性的感官改性剂。此外,GE-10-LL可以与甾醇酯形成多层囊泡(MLVs)。这些mlv可以通过自发搅拌制备,并且可以包封水溶性活性成分。我们使用体内共聚焦拉曼光谱测量了mlv对角质层的渗透。
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引用次数: 0
Effects of Hair Gloss and Brightness on Impression 头发光泽和亮度对印象的影响
Pub Date : 2018-06-20 DOI: 10.5107/SCCJ.52.105
Aoike Hiroki, Ikutaro Fuchigami, Hiroto Kamijo, Hiroshi Hosokawa, Soyogu Matsushita, K. Morikawa
Hair is one of the factors that determine the impression of a person. However, there has not been enough research regarding the change in the impression on people given by the presence of hair gloss or the difference in hair brightness. In this study, we conducted experiments using 9 combi-nations of hair gloss and brightness and 25 positive evaluation words ( 15 impression words and 10 texture words ) to quantitatively measure the impression of different glosses and degrees of brightness of hair, and analyzed the obtained scores using two-factor ANOVA and factor analysis. As a result, it was shown that when the hair gloss went up, ratings for most evaluation words became higher. When the brightness rose, however, ratings for some impression words became lower. In the four-factor model indicated by covariance structure analysis, gloss explains factors including tactile texture words and feminine evaluation words, whereas brightness explains factors including visual texture words and freshness evaluation words. Clarifying the effects of hair gloss and brightness on the impression of a person will enable us to match haircare products more accurately to the appearance that consumers desire to achieve.
头发是决定一个人给人印象的因素之一。然而,关于头发光泽的存在或头发亮度的差异给人的印象的变化,还没有足够的研究。在本研究中,我们采用9种头发光泽和亮度组合以及25个正面评价词(15个印象词和10个质感词)进行实验,定量测量头发对不同光泽和亮度程度的印象,并采用双因素方差分析和因子分析对所得分数进行分析。结果表明,当头发的光泽增加时,大多数评价词的评分都会提高。然而,当亮度增加时,一些印象词的评分会降低。在协方差结构分析的四因素模型中,光泽度可以解释触觉质感词和女性化评价词,亮度可以解释视觉质感词和新鲜度评价词。澄清头发光泽和亮度对人的印象的影响,将使我们能够更准确地将护发产品与消费者希望达到的外观相匹配。
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引用次数: 0
期刊
Journal of Society of Cosmetic Chemists of Japan
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