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Authorship and re-equilibration of the dynamics in the fashion industry: can the DSM Directive be the leader of a new regime for designers? 时装业的作者身份和动态再平衡:DSM 指令能否成为设计师新制度的领导者?
Pub Date : 2024-02-08 DOI: 10.1093/jiplp/jpae014
Spyridon Sipetas
Fashion designers’ persistent struggle to establish their author status is marked not only by external discrimination but also by internal industry biases. Historically, the alleged cultural elitism of copyright law has been the main hurdle for granting them this title. However, recent rulings of the Court of Justice of the European Union have dismantled any meaningful margin for discriminatory treatment across different art forms. With the clear acknowledgement of fashion designs as copyright-protectable subject matter, fashion designers can now proudly wear the badge of ‘authors’. But what does this newfound title bear, in practice, in a sector where authorship is built on an unjust foundation, on the grounds of the fashion industry’s discreditable hierarchy? What is the current fate of their moral and economic rights and how can the mechanisms provided to authors by Directive 2019/790 (DSM Directive) be leveraged to re-equilibrate the dynamics of the industry? These are, inter alia, the questions this article—ambitiously—attempts to explore.
时装设计师为确立自己的作者地位而进行的不懈努力不仅受到外部歧视,还受到行业内部偏见的影响。从历史上看,版权法中所谓的文化精英主义一直是授予他们这一头衔的主要障碍。然而,欧盟法院最近的裁决打破了不同艺术形式之间任何有意义的歧视性待遇。随着时装设计被明确认定为受版权保护的主题,时装设计师现在可以自豪地戴上 "作者 "的徽章了。但是,在一个作者身份建立在不公正基础上的行业中,在时尚产业不光彩的等级制度基础上,这个新获得的头衔实际上意味着什么?他们的精神和经济权利目前的命运如何?如何利用第2019/790号指令(DSM指令)为作者提供的机制来重新平衡该行业的动态?这些都是本文试图探讨的问题。
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引用次数: 0
Authorship and re-equilibration of the dynamics in the fashion industry: can the DSM Directive be the leader of a new regime for designers? 时装业的作者身份和动态再平衡:DSM 指令能否成为设计师新制度的领导者?
Pub Date : 2024-02-08 DOI: 10.1093/jiplp/jpae014
Spyridon Sipetas
Fashion designers’ persistent struggle to establish their author status is marked not only by external discrimination but also by internal industry biases. Historically, the alleged cultural elitism of copyright law has been the main hurdle for granting them this title. However, recent rulings of the Court of Justice of the European Union have dismantled any meaningful margin for discriminatory treatment across different art forms. With the clear acknowledgement of fashion designs as copyright-protectable subject matter, fashion designers can now proudly wear the badge of ‘authors’. But what does this newfound title bear, in practice, in a sector where authorship is built on an unjust foundation, on the grounds of the fashion industry’s discreditable hierarchy? What is the current fate of their moral and economic rights and how can the mechanisms provided to authors by Directive 2019/790 (DSM Directive) be leveraged to re-equilibrate the dynamics of the industry? These are, inter alia, the questions this article—ambitiously—attempts to explore.
时装设计师为确立自己的作者地位而进行的不懈努力不仅受到外部歧视,还受到行业内部偏见的影响。从历史上看,版权法中所谓的文化精英主义一直是授予他们这一头衔的主要障碍。然而,欧盟法院最近的裁决打破了不同艺术形式之间任何有意义的歧视性待遇。随着时装设计被明确认定为受版权保护的主题,时装设计师现在可以自豪地戴上 "作者 "的徽章了。但是,在一个作者身份建立在不公正基础上的行业中,在时尚产业不光彩的等级制度基础上,这个新获得的头衔实际上意味着什么?他们的精神和经济权利目前的命运如何?如何利用第2019/790号指令(DSM指令)为作者提供的机制来重新平衡该行业的动态?这些都是本文试图探讨的问题。
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引用次数: 0
A case for activating producers’ rights in discussions on conservation of biodiversity through Geographical Indications 在通过地理标志保护生物多样性的讨论中激活生产者权利的案例
Pub Date : 2024-02-05 DOI: 10.1093/jiplp/jpae005
D. Saxena, Christine Frison
Geographical Indications (GIs) are collective rights granted to a group of producers in a limited geographical area. One of the rationales of GI protection is biodiversity conservation which is rapidly being advanced. However, if the GI fails to value the terroir associated with it, it can risk erosion of bio(cultural)diversity. In this paper, taking lessons from such experiences, we argue for activating producers’ rights in discussions on biodiversity conservation through GIs and for the systematic inclusion of environmental law, which is considered relevant by the producers, in the GI specification. The rationale of sustainability and sustainable development and the integration of the capabilities approach to IP governance is part of our theoretical underpinnings for such an argument. Given the relationship between these concepts, we first explain biodiversity conservation and then situate the role of GIs in this context. Finally, we also differentiate between third-party certifications and eco-labels and GIs. The role of the former can be useful but limited as GIs offer a better opportunity to include producers’ own views. We support our arguments throughout the paper using various examples from secondary empirical research. In practice, we argue for making GI laws, including designing of GI specifications, in a manner that producers’ participation is included by design. Considerations of bio(cultural)diversity should be, by design, a part of GIs to increase their efficiency in fulfilling this rationale of protection. This calls for more interdisciplinary and intradisciplinary engagement from GI scholars as well.
地理标志(GI)是在有限的地理区域内授予一组生产者的集体权利。保护地理标志的理由之一是保护生物多样性,这一点正在迅速推进。然而,如果地理标志未能重视与之相关的风土,就有可能侵蚀生物(文化)多样性。在本文中,我们从这些经验中汲取教训,主张在通过地理标志保护生物多样性的讨论中激活生产者的权利,并将生产者认为相关的环境法系统地纳入地理标志规范中。可持续性和可持续发展的基本原理以及知识产权治理能力方法的整合是我们提出这一论点的部分理论基础。鉴于这些概念之间的关系,我们首先解释了生物多样性保护,然后将地理标志的作用置于这一背景下。最后,我们还将第三方认证和生态标签与地理标志区分开来。前者的作用可能有用但有限,因为地理标志提供了一个更好的机会来纳入生产者自己的观点。我们在整个论文中使用了二手实证研究中的各种实例来支持我们的论点。在实践中,我们主张在制定地理标志法律(包括设计地理标志规范)时,应在设计中纳入生产者的参与。生物(文化)多样性方面的考虑应在设计上成为地理标志的一部分,以提高地理标志在实现这一保护理念方面的效率。这就需要地理标志学者更多的跨学科和学科内的参与。
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引用次数: 0
A case for activating producers’ rights in discussions on conservation of biodiversity through Geographical Indications 在通过地理标志保护生物多样性的讨论中激活生产者权利的案例
Pub Date : 2024-02-05 DOI: 10.1093/jiplp/jpae005
D. Saxena, Christine Frison
Geographical Indications (GIs) are collective rights granted to a group of producers in a limited geographical area. One of the rationales of GI protection is biodiversity conservation which is rapidly being advanced. However, if the GI fails to value the terroir associated with it, it can risk erosion of bio(cultural)diversity. In this paper, taking lessons from such experiences, we argue for activating producers’ rights in discussions on biodiversity conservation through GIs and for the systematic inclusion of environmental law, which is considered relevant by the producers, in the GI specification. The rationale of sustainability and sustainable development and the integration of the capabilities approach to IP governance is part of our theoretical underpinnings for such an argument. Given the relationship between these concepts, we first explain biodiversity conservation and then situate the role of GIs in this context. Finally, we also differentiate between third-party certifications and eco-labels and GIs. The role of the former can be useful but limited as GIs offer a better opportunity to include producers’ own views. We support our arguments throughout the paper using various examples from secondary empirical research. In practice, we argue for making GI laws, including designing of GI specifications, in a manner that producers’ participation is included by design. Considerations of bio(cultural)diversity should be, by design, a part of GIs to increase their efficiency in fulfilling this rationale of protection. This calls for more interdisciplinary and intradisciplinary engagement from GI scholars as well.
地理标志(GI)是在有限的地理区域内授予一组生产者的集体权利。保护地理标志的理由之一是保护生物多样性,这一点正在迅速推进。然而,如果地理标志未能重视与之相关的风土,就有可能侵蚀生物(文化)多样性。在本文中,我们从这些经验中汲取教训,主张在通过地理标志保护生物多样性的讨论中激活生产者的权利,并将生产者认为相关的环境法系统地纳入地理标志规范中。可持续性和可持续发展的基本原理以及知识产权治理能力方法的整合是我们提出这一论点的部分理论基础。鉴于这些概念之间的关系,我们首先解释了生物多样性保护,然后将地理标志的作用置于这一背景下。最后,我们还将第三方认证和生态标签与地理标志区分开来。前者的作用可能有用但有限,因为地理标志提供了一个更好的机会来纳入生产者自己的观点。我们在整个论文中使用了二手实证研究中的各种实例来支持我们的论点。在实践中,我们主张在制定地理标志法律(包括设计地理标志规范)时,应在设计中纳入生产者的参与。生物(文化)多样性方面的考虑应在设计上成为地理标志的一部分,以提高地理标志在实现这一保护理念方面的效率。这就需要地理标志学者更多的跨学科和学科内的参与。
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引用次数: 0
Round-up of fashion-related IP decisions 2023 2023 年与时尚相关的知识产权决定综述
Pub Date : 2024-02-03 DOI: 10.1093/jiplp/jpae013
In 2023, courts and competent authorities in Australia, Czech Republic, Denmark, France, Germany, Italy, the Netherlands, Poland, Spain and the United Kingdom delivered a series of important rulings of interest to and affecting the fashion sector. This contribution provides a round-up of the most significant fashion-related IP judgments issued in the period 1 January to 31 December 2023. The analysis is organized by substantive IP right and enforcement aspects, and is organized by country.
2023 年,澳大利亚、捷克共和国、丹麦、法国、德国、意大利、荷兰、波兰、西班牙和英国的法院和主管机关作出了一系列与时尚界有关并影响时尚界的重要判决。本资料概述了 2023 年 1 月 1 日至 12 月 31 日期间发布的与时尚相关的最重要知识产权判决。分析按知识产权实体权利和执行方面进行,并按国家编排。
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引用次数: 0
Round-up of fashion-related IP decisions 2023 2023 年与时尚相关的知识产权决定综述
Pub Date : 2024-02-03 DOI: 10.1093/jiplp/jpae013
In 2023, courts and competent authorities in Australia, Czech Republic, Denmark, France, Germany, Italy, the Netherlands, Poland, Spain and the United Kingdom delivered a series of important rulings of interest to and affecting the fashion sector. This contribution provides a round-up of the most significant fashion-related IP judgments issued in the period 1 January to 31 December 2023. The analysis is organized by substantive IP right and enforcement aspects, and is organized by country.
2023 年,澳大利亚、捷克共和国、丹麦、法国、德国、意大利、荷兰、波兰、西班牙和英国的法院和主管机关作出了一系列与时尚界有关并影响时尚界的重要判决。本资料概述了 2023 年 1 月 1 日至 12 月 31 日期间发布的与时尚相关的最重要知识产权判决。分析按知识产权实体权利和执行方面进行,并按国家编排。
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引用次数: 0
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Journal of Intellectual Property Law and Practice
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