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Recent legislation and emerging trends in Cosmetology 美容学的最新立法和新趋势
Αnna Giannakoudaki
As the science of Cosmetology evolves, facing increasingly high demands, the legislative framework related to cosmetic products in the European Union, which is extremely well organized, is constantly on the alert in order to ensure the protection of consumer health and the quality of the environment, but also the avoidance of fraud and financial loss. Challenges constantly arise for new opinions and regulations-amendments of legislative content, which can affect any point in the life cycle of a cosmetic product, from the conception of the initial idea, to the rejection of the product. Sometimes the trends that appear are harbingers of a later need that should be legally defined. For example, the tendency to reduce the use of microplastics, which was a wish-choice in the previous years, is now legally mandated. Therefore, sometimes legislative developments and trends in a field interact significantly. Some recent legislative-type events and the evolution of trends that appeared in the field of cosmetic products after the decisive experience of the pandemic that we recently experienced are selectively presented.
随着美容科学的发展,面对越来越高的要求,欧盟有关化妆品的立法框架也在不断完善,以确保保护消费者健康和环境质量,同时避免欺诈和经济损失。新的意见和法规--立法内容的修订--不断涌现,这可能会影响到化妆品生命周期的任何阶段,从最初的构思到产品报废。有时,出现的趋势预示着日后应在法律上加以界定的需求。例如,减少使用微塑料的趋势在前些年还只是一种愿望,但现在已成为法律规定。因此,有时立法的发展和某一领域的趋势会产生很大的相互作用。本文选择性地介绍了最近发生的一些立法类事件,以及在我们最近经历的大流行病的决定性经验之后,化妆品领域出现的趋势演变。
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引用次数: 0
Oxidative stress and dermocosmetics 氧化应激和皮肤化妆品
S. Letsiou, Foteini Βiskanaki, Dimitrios Chaniotis, A. Beloukas, V. Kefala
Oxidative stress is quite a significant form of attack on the skin as it is considered one of the most important factors that causes skin aging. The article attempts to understand oxidative stress in the skin through in vitro studies targeting various biochemical pathways. In addition, cosmetic ingredients are described with the aim of both preventing oxidative stress on the skin as well as maintaining and enhancing the essential biological functions of the skin.
氧化应激被认为是导致皮肤老化的最重要因素之一,是皮肤受到的一种重要攻击形式。文章试图通过针对各种生化途径的体外研究来了解皮肤中的氧化应激。此外,文章还介绍了化妆品成分,其目的是防止皮肤氧化应激以及保持和增强皮肤的基本生物功能。
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引用次数: 0
Natural, Organic Cosmetics and New trends. Development of a Natural Toothpaste against plaque 天然、有机化妆品和新趋势。开发抗牙菌斑的天然牙膏
Angeliki Tsouna, Spyridon Papageorgiou, P. Pavlou, Fotini Mellou, A. Varvaresou, Apostolos G. Papadopoulos, Anna Giannakoudaki
Cosmetic products whose ingredients and especially the active agents have a natural origin, are characterized as natural. Natural cosmetics may have plant (extracts, essential oils, active plant ingredients, etc.) animal, marine or mineral ingredients with the least and safest possible processing. In the present study, a toothpaste with ingredients of natural origin was developed. Research was conducted on the most suitable natural flavoring, natural sweetener. The physico-chemical stability, microbiological stability and the main organoleptic characteristics, such as texture, viscosity and taste, which are the main factors for the choice and acceptance of these products by consumers, were studied. Additionally, the efficacy of various natural antimicrobial agents, in terms of protection against microbial plaque, was studied using in vitro methods and compared with a synthetic-«conventional» commercial toothpaste and a placebo sample.
化妆品的成分,特别是活性剂来源于天然,就被称为天然化妆品。天然化妆品可能含有植物(提取物、精油、植物活性成分等)、动物、海洋或矿物成分,加工过程尽可能少且安全。本研究开发了一种含有天然成分的牙膏。对最合适的天然香料、天然甜味剂进行了研究。研究了牙膏的理化稳定性、微生物稳定性和主要感官特征,如质地、粘度和味道,这些都是消费者选择和接受这些产品的主要因素。此外,还使用体外方法研究了各种天然抗菌剂在防止微生物菌斑方面的功效,并与合成的 "传统 "商业牙膏和安慰剂样品进行了比较。
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引用次数: 0
Βiomarkers of aging 老化的生物标志物
Dimitrios Chaniotis, A. Beloukas, Anastasios D. Papanastasiou, S. Letsiou, V. Kefala, Foteini Biskanaki
The phenomenon of longevity and healthy aging as well as the factors that can slow down or even prevent the appearance of pathological conditions related to aging is a subject of interest in modern biology and medical research. In this context, a series of clinical and biochemical indicators are recorded and evaluated, as well as a wide variety of cellular aging biomarkers that include molecular signals and biomolecules at the proteomic, metabolomic, genomic and epigenetic level. The use of biomarkers to assess biological aging can help predict life expectancy and quality of life. The reliability of various biomarkers of aging should also be tested for validity against clinical markers of aging, such as frailty, loss of (physical) function, chronic diseases and disabilities.
长寿和健康老化现象以及能够延缓甚至预防与老化有关的病理状况出现的因素,是现代生物学和医学研究中一个令人感兴趣的课题。在此背景下,一系列临床和生化指标以及各种细胞衰老生物标志物(包括蛋白质组、代谢组、基因组和表观遗传水平的分子信号和生物分子)被记录和评估。使用生物标志物评估生物衰老有助于预测预期寿命和生活质量。各种衰老生物标志物的可靠性还应与衰弱、(身体)功能丧失、慢性疾病和残疾等临床衰老标志物进行有效性测试。
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引用次数: 0
Extraction methods of polysaccharides, peptides, pigments, polyphenols from red and brown algae and their use in the treatment of skin hyperpigmentation and wrinkling 从红藻和褐藻中提取多糖、肽、色素、多酚的方法及其在治疗皮肤色素沉着和皱纹中的应用
Semeli Evgenia Sklivanaki, Apostolos G. Papadopoulos, A. Varvaresou, Spyridon Papageorgiou
The phenomenon of longevity and healthy aging as well as the factors that can slow down or even prevent the appearance of pathological conditions related to aging is a subject of interest in modern biology and medical research. In this context, a series of clinical and biochemical indicators are recorded and evaluated, as well as a wide variety of cellular aging biomarkers that include molecular signals and biomolecules at the proteomic, metabolomic, genomic and epigenetic level. The use of biomarkers to assess biological aging can help predict life expectancy and quality of life. The reliability of various biomarkers of aging should also be tested for validity against clinical markers of aging, such as frailty, loss of (physical) function, chronic diseases and disabilities.
长寿和健康老化现象以及能够延缓甚至预防与老化有关的病理状况出现的因素,是现代生物学和医学研究中一个令人感兴趣的课题。在此背景下,一系列临床和生化指标以及各种细胞衰老生物标志物(包括蛋白质组、代谢组、基因组和表观遗传水平的分子信号和生物分子)被记录和评估。使用生物标志物评估生物衰老有助于预测预期寿命和生活质量。各种衰老生物标志物的可靠性还应与衰弱、(身体)功能丧失、慢性疾病和残疾等临床衰老标志物进行有效性测试。
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引用次数: 0
The use of probiotics and prebiotics in the restoration of aesthetic problems. What is a proteome? 使用益生菌和益生元修复美容问题。什么是蛋白质组?
Foteini Biskanaki, A. Beloukas, S. Letsiou, Dimitrios Chaniotis, V. Kefala
A balanced microbiome protects against external environmental factors, strengthens the skin's defenses and slows the appearance of the signs of skin aging. In recent years, alternative treatments have been sought to treat various skin problems, through modification or supplementation of the microbiome, using prebiotics and probiotics. Cosmetics with probiotics and prebiotics are a rich source of proteins and vitamins and have been shown to strengthen the skin's proteome.
平衡的微生物群可以抵御外部环境因素的影响,增强皮肤的防御能力,延缓皮肤衰老迹象的出现。近年来,人们一直在寻求替代疗法,通过使用益生菌和益生菌改变或补充微生物群来治疗各种皮肤问题。含有益生菌和益生元的化妆品是蛋白质和维生素的丰富来源,已被证明可以增强皮肤的蛋白质组。
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引用次数: 0
Efficacy study of facial products enriched with probiotics/prebiotics & cannabinoids 富含益生菌/益生元和大麻素的面部产品功效研究
Vasileia Xagorari, Zoi Tiligada, P. Pavlou, Chalikias Miltiadis, Spyridon Papageorgiou, A. Varvaresou
With the increase in interest for natural innovative skin care products, an effort was made in our laboratory to study the beneficial effects of cannabinoids and prebiotics/probiotics on the skin. Through efficacy studies, the contribution of the specific active substances to improving the health and appearance of the skin was investigated. The present research offers important data creating new perspectives for the improvement of skin care with natural ingredients. The research was carried out on 13 healthy volunteers from the ages of 24 - 53. Two products (Cream and Serum) with the active substances under study and placebo ones were used. The cosmetic products were applied externally to the skin, twice a day for 30 days. The methods used were: a) self-assessment questionnaire, and b) non-intrusive biophysical parameters. Specifically, skin elasticity (Cutometer dual MPA 580), skin microtopography (Skin Visioscan VC 98), transepidermal water loss (MPA5-Tewameter) and hydration of the keratin layer (MPA5-Corneometer CM) were measured 825). Based on the findings, the main conclusions of the research are summarized, highlighting the effectiveness of the products in improving the quality of the skin.
随着人们对天然创新护肤品的兴趣日益浓厚,我们的实验室努力研究大麻素和益生元/益生菌对皮肤的有益作用。通过功效研究,我们调查了特定活性物质对改善皮肤健康和外观的贡献。目前的研究提供了重要的数据,为利用天然成分改善皮肤护理开辟了新的前景。研究对象是 13 名 24-53 岁的健康志愿者。使用了两种含有研究活性物质的产品(面霜和精华素)和安慰剂。这些化妆品被外用在皮肤上,每天两次,持续 30 天。使用的方法有:a) 自我评估问卷;b) 非侵入性生物物理参数。具体来说,测量了皮肤弹性(Cutometer dual MPA 580)、皮肤微观形貌(Skin Visioscan VC 98)、经表皮失水(MPA5-Tewameter)和角质层水合作用(MPA5-Corneometer CM)。根据研究结果,总结了研究的主要结论,强调了产品在改善皮肤质量方面的功效。
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引用次数: 0
New technologies in sunscreen cosmetics 防晒化妆品新技术
Ioanna Kourou, A. Varvaresou, Fotini Mellou, P. Pavlou, Spyridon Papageorgiou, Apostolos G. Papadopoulos
The aim of the present experimental study is the incorporation of an extract of the Porphyra Umbilicalis seaweed, which contains mycosporin derivatives (MAAs) in a sunscreen formulation, in combination with organic filters, in order to study its influence on the SPF and UVA PF. The results obtained from the in vitro SPF and UVA PF measurements as well as the physicochemical stability control of the new formulas, contribute to the effort for the partial replacement of organic sunscreen filters in sunscreen compositions.
本实验研究的目的是将含有霉菌素衍生物(MAAs)的脐带卟吩海藻提取物与有机过滤剂一起加入到防晒配方中,以研究其对 SPF 和 UVA PF 的影响。体外 SPF 和 UVA PF 测量结果以及新配方的理化稳定性控制,有助于在防晒配方中部分替代有机防晒过滤剂。
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引用次数: 0
Pathophysiology of Preeclampsia 子痫前期的病理生理学
Anna Kokrasvili, V. Harizopoulou, Angeliki Bolou, K. Gourounti
Preeclampsia is a hypertensive disease that occurs during pregnancy in 3 to 8% of pregnancies worldwide. This disease causes significant maternal and perinatal morbidity and mortality. This article attempts to understand the pathophysiological mechanism of preeclampsia, which appears to result from a complex interaction between maternal and fetal factors and affects multiple organ systems. A central role in pre-eclampsia appears to be abnormal placentation with subsequent excess of anti-angiogenic factors and malabsorption. Further studies are needed to elucidate the pathophysiology of preeclampsia to better understand the disease, more appropriate treatment, and reduce maternal and neonatal morbidity and mortality.
子痫前期是一种妊娠期高血压疾病,全世界有 3%至 8%的孕妇在怀孕期间会出现子痫前期。这种疾病会导致严重的孕产妇和围产期发病率和死亡率。本文试图了解子痫前期的病理生理机制。子痫前期似乎是母体和胎儿因素之间复杂相互作用的结果,并影响多个器官系统。先兆子痫的主要病因似乎是胎盘异常,以及随后的抗血管生成因子过多和吸收不良。需要进一步研究阐明子痫前期的病理生理学,以便更好地了解这种疾病,提供更适当的治疗,降低孕产妇和新生儿的发病率和死亡率。
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Epitheorese Klinikes Farmakologias kai Farmakokinetikes – Greek Edition
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