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Environmental Effects of Ultraviolet (UV) Filters. 紫外线过滤器对环境的影响。
Pub Date : 2021-01-01 Epub Date: 2021-10-25 DOI: 10.1159/000517635
Jay Sirois

Organic and inorganic ultraviolet (UV) filters are used in topical sunscreens and other applications to prevent or limit damage following exposure to UV light. Increasing use of UV filters has contributed to a growing number of investigations examining potential effects on human health and the environment. Worldwide environmental monitoring data demonstrate that UV filters reach aquatic environments through two main input sources - direct (i.e., washoff from swimmers/bathers) and indirect (i.e., incomplete wastewater treatment removal) - and can be taken up by various algal, plant, and animal species and sediments. In areas where industrial wastewater sources or significant recreational activities result in a greater input load, levels may be elevated and could impart an increased risk on native species health. In vitro, at higher levels typically not measured in the environment, effects on growth and reproduction are observed in different species, including fish, coral reef, and plants. Despite this, predicted no-effect concentrations for UV filters are generally above measured environmental concentrations. Recent legislative activity banning the use of certain UV filters has heightened awareness of their environmental ubiquity and precipitated a need for a thorough examination of evidence linking their ecological presence with adverse outcomes. In order to gauge the true potential risk to native ecosystems associated with UV filters, future studies should consider factors inherent both to finished sunscreen products (e.g., metabolic fate/transport and effect of inactive ingredients) and to the sampled environment (e.g., species sensitivity, presence of other contaminants, water flow, and photodegradation).

有机和无机紫外线(UV)过滤器用于局部防晒霜和其他应用,以防止或限制暴露在紫外线下的损害。越来越多地使用紫外线过滤器,促使越来越多的调查研究对人类健康和环境的潜在影响。全球环境监测数据表明,紫外线过滤器通过两个主要输入源到达水生环境-直接(即游泳者/游泳者的洗涤)和间接(即不完全的废水处理去除)-并且可以被各种藻类,植物和动物物种和沉积物吸收。在工业废水来源或重大娱乐活动导致更大输入负荷的地区,水平可能会升高,并可能对本地物种健康造成更大的风险。在体外,在通常无法在环境中测量到的较高水平,对不同物种(包括鱼类、珊瑚礁和植物)的生长和繁殖的影响被观察到。尽管如此,紫外线过滤器的预测无效应浓度通常高于测量的环境浓度。最近禁止使用某些紫外线过滤器的立法活动提高了人们对其在环境中无处不在的认识,并促使人们需要对其生态存在与不利后果之间的证据进行彻底审查。为了衡量与紫外线过滤器相关的本地生态系统的真正潜在风险,未来的研究应该考虑成品防晒霜的固有因素(例如,代谢命运/运输和非活性成分的影响)和采样环境的固有因素(例如,物种敏感性,其他污染物的存在,水流和光降解)。
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引用次数: 2
What Are the Options Beyond SPF 50+? A View on Consumer Behavior and the Sensory Features of Sunscreens. 除了SPF 50+还有什么选择?消费者行为与防晒霜感官特征的观点。
Pub Date : 2021-01-01 Epub Date: 2021-10-25 DOI: 10.1159/000517656
Jürgen Vollhardt, Michele Marchini

Skin cancer rates have been on the rise for decades and are still growing in spite of the availability of high-performance sunscreens that provide sufficient protection against the damaging effect of UV radiation everywhere on this globe. This paper investigates behaviors and attitudes to sunscreen use that may cause an increased UV exposure risk, for example, not using sunscreen at all. Alongside educational reasons, there is a link to some aspects of applying sunscreens that seem to be disliked universally. Therefore, the sensory features of 73 globally sourced commercial sunscreens were measured using quantitative descriptive sensory analysis. This revealed the ranges of sensory intensity currently available, which were then compared with what consumers really want, and showed that only a few sunscreens currently fulfill the needs of people in the most abundant consumer group - "dry touch seekers." All this contributes to insufficient or no use at all of sunscreens during sun exposure, which could result in significant UV dosages that turn out to be relevant for skin cancer development. A more integral approach to improving sunscreen formulas, along with more targeted communication to connect more effectively with consumers who currently show those avoidance behaviors, is needed.

几十年来,皮肤癌的发病率一直在上升,而且仍在上升,尽管高性能的防晒霜在全球各地都能提供足够的保护,抵御紫外线辐射的破坏性影响。本文调查了可能导致紫外线暴露风险增加的使用防晒霜的行为和态度,例如,根本不使用防晒霜。除了教育方面的原因,防晒霜的某些方面似乎也不受欢迎。因此,使用定量描述性感官分析测量了73种全球商业防晒霜的感官特征。这揭示了目前可用的感觉强度范围,然后将其与消费者真正想要的进行比较,并表明目前只有少数防晒霜满足了最丰富的消费者群体-“干触感寻求者”的需求。所有这些都导致在阳光照射时防晒霜使用不足或根本不使用,这可能导致大量的紫外线剂量,而这与皮肤癌的发展有关。我们需要一种更全面的方法来改进防晒霜配方,同时进行更有针对性的沟通,以更有效地与目前表现出这些回避行为的消费者建立联系。
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引用次数: 1
Past, Present, and Future of Sun Protection Metrics. 防晒指标的过去、现在和未来。
Pub Date : 2021-01-01 Epub Date: 2021-10-25 DOI: 10.1159/000517667
Christian Surber, Steffen Uhlig, Colson Bertrand, Jürgen Vollhardt, Uli Osterwalder

Since the beginning of the development of sunscreen products, efforts have been made to measure and quantify the protection performance of such products. Early on an in vivo method was established that allowed statements on the sun protection performance in humans. Later, by establishing defined basic and experimental conditions, the method became internationally standardized delivering the well-known sun protection factor (SPF). The method was widely used and is nowadays regarded as a gold-standard method. Further standardized methods were added shortly thereafter. However, shortcomings such as the confined radiation spectra used by the methods, the invasiveness, the complexity in their application, as well as their time- and cost-intensity promoted the development of alternative methods. The shortcomings were recently followed by another, namely, the large interlaboratory variances of the sun protection metrics SPFISO 24444. This all together shows that there is a justifiable need to explore the potential of alternative methods, to complement the existing methods, to serve as equivalents, or even to replace it in the future. Based on the work of Uhlig and coworkers, the authors propose to test the suitability of the alternative methods and their possible equivalency to the reference methods in a broad-based investigation, taking into account possible interlaboratory variances. A research program - developed by a consortium - is in public planning where stakeholders from research, industry, authorities, and the public can come together to facilitate and further advance standardization of the measurement of the sun protection performance. The authors give an insight into historical, technical--conceptual, and future developments of methods for -determining the protective performance of sun protection products.

自防晒产品开发之初,人们就努力测量和量化防晒产品的防护性能。早期建立了一种体内方法,允许对人体防晒性能的陈述。后来,通过建立明确的基础和实验条件,该方法在国际上标准化,提供了众所周知的防晒系数(SPF)。这种方法被广泛使用,现在被认为是一种金标准方法。此后不久又增加了进一步的标准化方法。然而,这些方法所使用的局限辐射光谱、侵入性、应用复杂性以及时间和成本强度等缺点促使了替代方法的发展。最近,另一个缺点紧随其后,即防晒指标SPFISO 24444的实验室间差异很大。所有这些都表明,有理由需要探索替代方法的潜力,以补充现有方法,作为等效方法,甚至在将来取代它。基于Uhlig及其同事的工作,作者建议在广泛的调查中测试替代方法的适用性及其与参考方法的可能等效性,同时考虑到可能的实验室间差异。一个由一个联盟开发的研究项目是在公共规划中,来自研究、工业、当局和公众的利益相关者可以聚集在一起,促进和进一步推进防晒性能测量的标准化。作者对确定防晒产品防护性能的方法的历史、技术概念和未来发展进行了深入分析。
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引用次数: 3
The Preventive Value of Sun Protection. 防晒的预防价值。
Pub Date : 2021-01-01 Epub Date: 2021-10-25 DOI: 10.1159/000517641
Henriette Rönsch, Andrea Bauer

Background: With more than 200,000 new cases per year, skin tumours have been the most frequently reported cancers in Germany for years. We performed a systematic review to summarise the current evidence concerning the preventive value of regular sunscreen use.

Methods: Systematic literature review of controlled and randomised controlled trials were performed in Ovid Embase and Ovid Medline on 21 January 2020. We included studies evaluating the effectiveness of sunscreens on epithelial skin cancer, actinic keratosis or photoageing, or side effects in humans.

Results: Five eligible trials, each involving 28 to 1,621 participants from various populations, were identified. All 4 studies on actinic keratoses showed a significant beneficial effect of sunscreens. The 2 studies on squamous cell carcinoma demonstrated significant beneficial effects of sunscreens. The 2 studies on photoageing observed a significant reduction in the sunscreen groups. The 2 studies on basal cell carcinoma reported no significant results, but both studies reported some non-significant protective effects of sunscreen use. Sunscreens as well as vehicles sometimes had side effects affecting skin and eyes. Compared with controls, sunscreens had no significant side effects on vitamin D, bone mass density and mortality.

Conclusion: The evidence from published controlled and randomised controlled studies is limited. Especially for basal cell carcinoma, further high-quality studies including young populations are required to investigate possible protective effects of modern broad-spectrum sunscreens. The results of this systematic review do not change the current recommendations for UV protection. Sunscreens are recommended as a second-line measure against solar radiation whenever protective clothing and seeking shake are inadequate.

背景:多年来,每年有超过20万的新病例,皮肤肿瘤是德国最常见的癌症。我们进行了一项系统综述,总结了目前关于经常使用防晒霜的预防价值的证据。方法:于2020年1月21日在Ovid Embase和Ovid Medline中进行对照和随机对照试验的系统文献综述。我们纳入了评估防晒霜对上皮性皮肤癌、光化性角化病或光老化或人类副作用的有效性的研究。结果:确定了5个符合条件的试验,每个试验涉及28至1,621名来自不同人群的参与者。所有4项关于光化性角化病的研究都显示了防晒霜的显著有益效果。两项针对鳞状细胞癌的研究表明,防晒霜有显著的有益效果。两项关于光老化的研究发现,防晒霜组的光老化显著减少。这两项关于基底细胞癌的研究没有报告显著的结果,但两项研究都报告了使用防晒霜的一些不显著的保护作用。防晒霜和车辆有时会对皮肤和眼睛产生副作用。与对照组相比,防晒霜对维生素D、骨密度和死亡率没有明显的副作用。结论:已发表的对照和随机对照研究的证据是有限的。特别是对于基底细胞癌,需要进一步的高质量研究,包括年轻人群,以调查现代广谱防晒霜可能的保护作用。该系统综述的结果不会改变目前对紫外线防护的建议。当防护服和遮阳衣不够时,建议使用防晒霜作为防止太阳辐射的第二线措施。
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引用次数: 1
Percutaneous Absorption of Sunscreen Filters: Review of Issues and Challenges. 防晒霜过滤器的经皮吸收:问题和挑战的回顾。
Pub Date : 2021-01-01 Epub Date: 2021-10-25 DOI: 10.1159/000517595
Christian Surber, James Plautz, Myriam Sohn, Howard I Maibach

Although skin is a vital barrier to the outside world, it is permeable to certain substances used in topical pharmacotherapy. It is therefore not surprising that other xenobiotics intentionally or accidentally coming in contact with skin can cross the skin barrier. Long before the turn of the millennium, it became clear that sunscreen filters from sunscreen products can be systemically absorbed and detected in urine and plasma. Against this background, we review issues and challenges with safety assessments related to the possible percutaneous absorption of the sunscreen filters. A reference is made to the Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 30 November 2009 on cosmetic products (version 1 August 2018) and the concepts of the Maximal Usage Trial (MUsT) and Generally Recognized As Safe and Effective (GRASE), currently discussed in the United States.

虽然皮肤是与外界隔绝的重要屏障,但局部药物治疗中使用的某些物质是可渗透的。因此,有意或无意与皮肤接触的其他外源药物可以穿过皮肤屏障也就不足为奇了。早在世纪之交之前,人们就已经清楚,防晒霜产品中的防晒霜过滤器可以被全身吸收,并在尿液和血浆中被检测到。在此背景下,我们回顾了与防晒霜过滤器可能经皮吸收相关的安全评估的问题和挑战。参考欧洲议会和理事会2009年11月30日关于化妆品的法规(EC) No 1223/2009(2018年8月1日版本)以及目前在美国讨论的最大使用量试验(MUsT)和公认安全有效(GRASE)的概念。
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引用次数: 1
Performance Metrics of Sunscreen Formulations: In Vitro and In Vivo Techniques. 防晒配方的性能指标:体外和体内技术。
Pub Date : 2021-01-01 Epub Date: 2021-10-25 DOI: 10.1159/000517657
Stephan Bielfeldt

Effective skin protection of consumers by sunscreens can only be achieved when meaningful and reliable test methods are available to objectively measure the protection of sunscreen products. Quantitative, scientifically sound, and valid methods to detect UVB and UVA light protection as well as methods to assess sunscreen substantivity to water are required. Continuous improvement and, if necessary, extension of the test methods are important to provide optimum protection from harmful sun rays to the consumer. This work documents the historical background of the development of sunscreen test methods and provides the actual worldwide status of applied methods. Future developments and trends are discussed as far as they actually become apparent.

只有当有有意义和可靠的测试方法来客观地测量防晒霜产品的保护作用时,防晒霜才能有效地保护消费者的皮肤。需要定量的、科学合理的、有效的方法来检测中波紫外线和中波紫外线的防护,以及评估防晒霜对水的实质性的方法。持续改进,如有必要,扩展测试方法是重要的,以提供最佳的保护,使消费者免受有害的太阳射线。本工作记录了防晒霜测试方法发展的历史背景,并提供了应用方法的实际世界状况。讨论未来的发展和趋势,只要它们实际上变得明显。
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引用次数: 0
The Formula for Best Sunscreen Performance: Beer-Lambert's Law Under the Microscope. 最佳防晒配方:显微镜下的比尔-朗伯定律。
Pub Date : 2021-01-01 Epub Date: 2021-10-25 DOI: 10.1159/000517663
Bernd Herzog, Myriam Sohn

Sunscreens used for the protection of human skin work by attenuating the potentially harmful solar UV radiation. In recent years, the quantitative understanding of this attenuating effect has grown tremendously, enabling model calculations of sunscreen performance. Such calculations are based on the simulation of the UV transmission of the sunscreen film applied on human skin. However, there are 2 prerequisites assumed to hold. The first prerequisite is the applicability of the Beer-Lambert law for sunscreen films, and the second is that the thickness variation of the sunscreen film can be described with a gamma distribution of film heights. There is strong evidence from recent experimental work that both assumptions are correct. For several applications, calculations of sunscreen performance have been shown to be useful, for instance, in the design of new sunscreen formulations aiming for a certain sun protection factor or other characteristics, prediction of pre-vitamin D production in the skin in the presence of sunscreen, in vitro measurement of water resistance, and assessment of the ecotoxicological profile of a sunscreen formulation or the influence of oil polarity on UV-filter absorbance and the consequence for sunscreen performance.

用于保护人体皮肤的防晒霜通过减弱潜在的有害太阳紫外线辐射来起作用。近年来,对这种衰减效应的定量理解已经大大增加,使防晒性能的模型计算成为可能。这样的计算是基于对涂抹在人体皮肤上的防晒膜的紫外线透射的模拟。然而,假设有两个先决条件是成立的。第一个先决条件是比尔-朗伯定律对防晒膜的适用性,第二个先决条件是防晒膜的厚度变化可以用膜高的伽马分布来描述。最近的实验工作有力地证明,这两种假设都是正确的。在一些应用中,对防晒霜性能的计算已被证明是有用的,例如,在设计新的防晒霜配方时,旨在达到某种防晒系数或其他特性,预测防晒霜存在时皮肤中维生素D前的生成,体外抗水性测量,以及评估防晒霜配方的生态毒理学特征或油极性对紫外线过滤器吸光度的影响及其对防晒霜性能的影响。
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引用次数: 3
Size Matters! Issues and Challenges with Nanoparticulate UV Filters. 规模很重要!纳米粒子紫外线过滤器的问题和挑战。
Pub Date : 2021-01-01 Epub Date: 2021-10-25 DOI: 10.1159/000517632
Christian Surber, James Plautz, Stephan Dähnhardt-Pfeiffer, Uli Osterwalder

Preparations containing pigments have been used since ancient times to protect against negative effects of solar radiation. Since the 1950s, sunscreen products containing micronized TiO2 and ZnO have been marketed. These products were soon regarded as cosmetically unattrac-tive due to their property of remaining as a white paste on the skin, a result of particle sizes. In order to eliminate these unfavourable properties, particle size distribution was lowered into a range below 100 nm, a size threshold for decreasing the particle's optical property to reflect visible light. After 2000, new nanoparticulate organic filters were developed. Effects of both the inorganic and organic nanoparticulate substances - alone or in combination - with non-particulate UV filters were well documented and had shown great effectiveness. At the time, nanotechnology fuelled great hope in the progress of science and technology, including the health sector and cosmetics industry. Instead, influenced by images from the science fiction literature of self-replicating nanorobots destroying all living matter or health and environmental disasters caused by asbestos, fear of this new unknown amongst the general population has hindered acceptance and progress of nano-enabled products. Consumers have started to suspect that the particles permeate through skin, are absorbed by the blood and are distributed throughout the body, causing disease. Not least because of public pressure, cosmetics - which include sunscreen products - became the first product segment in which appropriately manufactured substances were subject to stringent rules. Despite advanced regulation and rigorous approval procedures for nanoparticulate UV filters, widespread reservations remain. Possible reasons could be a lack of knowledge of current legislation and unclear ideas about nature and behaviour of nanoparticles. Against this background, we discuss the nature and behaviour of nanoparticulate UV filters within finished products, on the skin and potentially in the skin, and the regulatory framework that ensures that nanoparticulate UV filters and the sunscreen products containing them are safe to use.

自古以来,人们就使用含有色素的制剂来防止太阳辐射的负面影响。自20世纪50年代以来,含有微二氧化钛和氧化锌的防晒产品已经上市。这些产品很快就被认为是没有美容吸引力的,因为它们在皮肤上停留为白色糊状物,这是颗粒大小的结果。为了消除这些不利的特性,颗粒尺寸分布被降低到100纳米以下的范围,这是降低颗粒反射可见光的光学特性的尺寸阈值。2000年以后,新型纳米颗粒有机过滤器被开发出来。无机和有机纳米颗粒物质——单独或联合——与非颗粒紫外线过滤器的效果都有很好的记录,并显示出很大的效果。当时,纳米技术给包括卫生部门和化妆品行业在内的科学和技术进步带来了巨大的希望。相反,受科幻小说中自我复制的纳米机器人摧毁所有生物或石棉造成的健康和环境灾难的形象的影响,普通大众对这种新的未知事物的恐惧阻碍了纳米产品的接受和进步。消费者已经开始怀疑这些微粒渗透皮肤,被血液吸收并分布在全身,从而引发疾病。尤其是由于公众的压力,化妆品(包括防晒产品)成为第一个对适当生产的物质进行严格规定的产品领域。尽管先进的法规和严格的审批程序,纳米颗粒紫外线过滤器,广泛的保留意见仍然存在。可能的原因可能是缺乏对当前立法的了解以及对纳米粒子的性质和行为的不清楚。在此背景下,我们讨论了成品中纳米颗粒紫外线过滤器的性质和行为,在皮肤上和潜在的皮肤中,以及确保纳米颗粒紫外线过滤器和含有它们的防晒产品安全使用的监管框架。
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引用次数: 5
Risks and Benefits of UV Radiation. 紫外线辐射的风险和益处。
Pub Date : 2021-01-01 Epub Date: 2021-10-25 DOI: 10.1159/000517642
Richard B Weller, Maximilian Mahrhofer, Wendy Davis, Shelly Gorman

While UV radiation is a skin carcinogen, this should not obscure the growing evidence that sunlight has significant health benefits, including impacts on cardiovascular and metabolic health. Epidemiological and mechanistic evidences for the importance of different wavelengths of sunlight, including blue light and UV radiation, are presented.

虽然紫外线辐射是一种皮肤致癌物,但这不应该掩盖越来越多的证据,即阳光对健康有显著的好处,包括对心血管和代谢健康的影响。介绍了不同波长的阳光(包括蓝光和紫外线)的重要性的流行病学和机理证据。
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引用次数: 1
Challenges in Formulating Sunscreen Products. 防晒产品配方的挑战。
Pub Date : 2021-01-01 Epub Date: 2021-10-25 DOI: 10.1159/000517655
Christiane Hanay, Uli Osterwalder

Developing efficient sunscreen products with an acceptable sensory feel after application on skin, that meet current regulatory market and consumer requirements, is a major challenge, exacerbated by new restrictions limiting the use of certain ingredients previously considered crucial. This paper outlines a development strategy for -formulating sunscreens along a generic professional development pathway. Each galenic system will be different and must be customized. Development starts with benchmarking, followed by UVA/UVB filter platform selection and in silico calculation/optimization of photoprotection performance for the desired SPF, UVA-PF, and other requested endpoints. Next comes the selection of the emulsifier system and other key formulation ingredients, such as oil components, triplet quenchers, and antioxidants, with sensory, rheological, and film formation functions. Preliminary cost estimation is then performed to -complete the conceptual process before the start of the practical galenic development. The successful development of modern sunscreen products is based on -comprehensive expertise in chemistry, galenic methodology, regulation, and patenting, as well as specific -market and consumer requirements. The selection of the UV filters is the first key decision and constrains later choices. Other properties, such as water resistance and preservation or active ingredients, may need to be considered. The 4 basic requirements of efficacy, safety, registration, and patent freedom become checklist items to ensure that after development, a sunscreen product has a chance of success.

开发有效的防晒霜产品,使其在皮肤上使用后具有可接受的感觉,满足当前监管市场和消费者的要求,是一项重大挑战,而限制使用某些先前被认为至关重要的成分的新限制又加剧了这一挑战。本文概述了沿通用专业发展路径研制防晒霜的发展战略。每个galenic系统将是不同的,必须定制。开发从基准测试开始,然后是UVA/UVB滤波器平台选择和所需SPF, UVA- pf和其他要求端点的光防护性能的计算机计算/优化。接下来是乳化剂体系和其他关键配方成分的选择,如油组分、三重猝灭剂和抗氧化剂,具有感官、流变和成膜功能。然后进行初步的成本估算,以在实际的galenic开发开始之前完成概念过程。现代防晒霜产品的成功开发是基于化学,galenic方法论,法规和专利的综合专业知识,以及特定的市场和消费者需求。UV滤光片的选择是第一个关键的决定,并限制了后来的选择。其他性能,如耐水性和保存性或活性成分,可能需要考虑。功效、安全、注册和专利自由这4个基本要求成为确保防晒产品开发后有成功机会的检查项目。
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引用次数: 4
期刊
Current problems in dermatology
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