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Graduate Journal of Food Studies最新文献

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Review: Divided Spirits 回顾:分裂的精神
Pub Date : 2019-12-27 DOI: 10.21428/92775833.cbf08417
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引用次数: 0
From the Editor: The Many Potential Futures of Food Studies 编辑:食品研究的许多潜在未来
Pub Date : 2019-12-24 DOI: 10.21428/92775833.bc4901f0
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引用次数: 0
#EatingfortheInsta: A Semiotic Analysis of Digital Representations of Food on Instagram #为insta而吃:对Instagram上食物数字表现的符号学分析
Pub Date : 2019-12-24 DOI: 10.21428/92775833.6889719f
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引用次数: 8
Eating the North: An Analysis of the Cookbook “NOMA: Time & Place in Nordic Cuisine” 吃北方:对《NOMA:北欧美食的时间与地点》这本食谱的分析
Pub Date : 2019-12-24 DOI: 10.21428/92775833.6c60dbc4
Sasha Gora
| A portmanteau of the Danish words nordisk (Nordic) and mad (food), Noma opened in Copenhagen, Denmark in 2003. Seven years later, it was crowned first in Restaurant Magazine’s Best Restaurant in the World competition. That same year, 2010, the restaurant published its first English cookbook NOMA: Time and Place in Nordic Cuisine, authored by chef René Redzepi. In this article I analyze this cookbook, focusing on how the visuals, texts, and recipes signify time and place for diverse publics. I begin with a literature review—discussing cookbooks as tools of communication and marketing—and consider the role the visual plays in this process. How does the cookbook represent Nordic food and the region from which it comes? How does the composition of the book as a whole shape not only what is considered Nordic food, but also the Nordic region? I then closely read NOMA: Time and Place in Nordic Cuisine, demonstrating how the cookbook does not represent a time and place, but instead constructs one. keywords | Cookbooks, New Nordic, visual culture, haute cuisine The day after Noma was crowned first in Restaurant magazine’s Best Restaurant in the World competition in 2010, the restaurant had 100,000 online requests for reservations. That same year, the restaurant published its first English language cookbook: NOMA: Time and Place in Nordic Cuisine. Authored by chef René Redzepi, the contemporary Danish-Icelandic artist Olafur Eliasson penned the book’s introduction, titled “Milk Skin with Grass.” This introduction sets the tone for the book: poetic and understated. Photographed by Ditte Isager, the images throughout the cookbook depict messy arrangements of delicate food, black and white portraits of the restaurant’s suppliers, blurry shots of the restaurant’s interior, and romantic renderings of the Nordic landscape. If food acts as an expression of cultural identity, how is identity visually expressed? How do text and design support the visual? What does the visual language of this book communicate about, as the title suggests, the restaurant’s time and place in Nordic cuisine? In a conversation with Charles Harrison in a 1969 issue of Studio International Magazine, Seth Siegelaub remarked: “For many years it has been well known that more people are aware of an artist’s work through (1) the printed media or (2) conversation than by direct confrontation with the art itself.” With its month-long waiting list (for a restaurant that seats only forty-four) and the high cost of a multicourse meal (the menu, without wine, is 1.700DK, nearly 230€ or $245 (US) per person), the same can be said about Noma. More people, the author included, experience Noma through its cookbooks, press coverage, and social media channels than through eating its food. Noma’s cookbooks complement, as well as completely substitute, the restaurant experience. The visual plays an essential role in this process. Food and eating can be studied as both material and visual culture. One can
当阿帕杜莱探索家庭烹饪时,他只描述了许多不同类型的烹饪书中的一种,这些书既适用于公共领域,也适用于私人领域。女性写了很多关于家庭烹饪的书,她们的意图是这些书将被烹饪,通常是为一个家庭,因为标准的烹饪书通常是四个人的食谱。这种类型的食谱遵循一个公式,因为这些食谱作者在他们的厨房里编写和测试食谱,然后以食谱的形式分享它们:就像从一个家庭的厨房到另一个家庭的厨房一样。设备通常很简单,配料也很熟悉。另一种类型的烹饪书直接将公共和私人烹饪领域联系起来。这种类型的烹饪书通常是为家庭厨师编写的,但目的不同。这些烹饪书的作者可能是厨师,也可能是代笔作家,他们的职责是跟随厨师,将他们有时混乱的烹饪转化为标准化的衡量标准和易于遵循的指示。莱斯利·布伦纳(Leslie Brenner)在《美国人的胃口:一种民族美食的成熟》(American Appetite: The Coming of a nation Cuisine)一书中写道:“尽管肯定有例外,但从厨师食谱中烹饪是出了名的困难,因为它们通常假设你已经精心制作了或很难找到的食材。”NOMA:北欧食物的时间和地点就是这样一本食谱。但是为什么有人买了一本食谱却不打算照着它做饭呢?布伦纳继续说:但是烹饪书很畅销……其实很多人并不照着食谱做饭;相反,他们把它们当作小说来读。专业烹饪书让业余爱好者梦想着他们永远没有时间做的精致建筑,其中的食材可能是他们找不到的。这些书让读者可以亲自烹饪,享受梦幻般的美食。正如布伦纳所建议的那样,有些人购买烹饪书并没有打算用它们做饭。这使得一些烹饪书更多的是关于灵感和愿望,而不是实用。在她写作的过程中,这些烹饪书也更像是小说:为了故事而读的书。这些故事可以告诉我们很多关于一个地方和一个时代的事情。正如Jessamyn Neuhaus在《男性膳食和妈妈的家庭烹饪:现代美国的烹饪书和性别》中所说的那样:“……烹饪书揭示了很多关于生产cle的社会,我首先回顾了将烹饪书作为沟通和营销工具的文献,并考虑了视觉在这一过程中所起的作用。然后我仔细阅读了NOMA:北欧美食中的时间和地点,展示了这本食谱如何不代表时间和地点,而是构建一个时间和地点。我分析由视觉形成的叙事。我还研究了这本书的写作、结构和设计方式,以及这本书的整体构成如何塑造了人们对北欧食物和北欧地区的看法。烹饪书的公众和私人生活烹饪书不仅仅是关于烹饪的,它们传递的信息也不仅仅是食谱。烹饪书是讲故事的媒介。社会文化人类学家阿琼·阿帕杜莱(Arjun Appadurai)在他1988年的文章《如何制作一种民族美食:当代印度的食谱》(How to Make a National Cuisine: Cookbooks in Contemporary India)的开头,描述了食谱的作用和研究它们所揭示的东西:食谱通常属于复杂文明的卑微文学,讲述了不寻常的文化故事。它们结合了所有手册中坚实实用的优点和感官文学的替代乐趣。它们反映了可食用性界限的变化、烹饪过程的特性、膳食的逻辑、家庭预算的紧迫性、市场的变幻莫测以及家庭意识形态的结构。根据阿帕杜莱的说法,烹饪书揭示了人、食物和价值观之间不断变化的关系。这使它们成为文化文物。除了展示烹饪老食材的新方法,Noma烹饪书还介绍了新食材。诺玛强调觅食原料,并与北欧食品实验室合作,专门致力于开发或发现新原料。Noma的创造性努力反映了可食用食物的转变,这一观点与Noma:北欧美食中的时间和地点特别相关。烹饪书是如何讲述阿帕杜莱所描述的“不寻常的文化故事”的?一本烹饪书可以讲述的不同寻常的故事是多种多样的。安妮·l·鲍尔在《阅读食谱:社区食谱、故事、历史》一书中讨论了这一系列的故事。虽然她专门写了一些社区烹饪书,这些书是用来筹集资金的,而不是用来产生利润的,但她的发现可以应用于一般的烹饪书,正如她所写的,“……烹饪书讲故事——大多数情况下是自传,有时是历史,其他情况下可能是虚构的或理想化的。”在
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引用次数: 1
Review: The Sociology of Food 综述:食品社会学
Pub Date : 2019-12-23 DOI: 10.21428/92775833.6aea7d58
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引用次数: 0
Review: Making Modern Meals 回顾:制作现代膳食
Pub Date : 2019-12-23 DOI: 10.21428/92775833.7f8ca83c
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引用次数: 0
Notes from the Field: Helsinki's Secret Gardens 实地笔记:赫尔辛基的秘密花园
Pub Date : 2019-12-23 DOI: 10.21428/92775833.3089a552
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引用次数: 0
Review: The New Food Activism: Opposition, Cooperation, and Collective Action 回顾:新的食品行动主义:反对、合作和集体行动
Pub Date : 2019-12-23 DOI: 10.21428/92775833.ed1ee17f
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引用次数: 0
Review: The Agency of Eating 回顾:饮食机构
Pub Date : 2019-12-23 DOI: 10.21428/92775833.dc40b855
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引用次数: 0
From the Book Review Editor: Discontent with Food 来自书评编辑:对食物的不满
Pub Date : 2019-12-19 DOI: 10.21428/92775833.8199c46a
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引用次数: 0
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Graduate Journal of Food Studies
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