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Works in Thread and the Emergence of Israeli Fiber Art 线中的作品与以色列纤维艺术的出现
3区 艺术学 Q3 Arts and Humanities Pub Date : 2023-11-13 DOI: 10.1080/17496772.2023.2264633
Noga Bernstein
This article discusses the history of textile exhibitions in Israel during the state’s first three decades, focusing on the seminal yet completely overlooked exhibition Works in Thread, held at the Israel Museum’s Design & Architecture Department in 1975. As this article shows, Works in Thread was an eclectic compilation of applied- and art-textiles, both hand- and machine-made, but it particularly highlighted the new medium of art textiles, or fiber art, known locally as “work in soft thread.” I argue that this exhibition serves as an archeological site that reveals multiple currents in the short history Israel’s textile production, particularly a process by which textiles and fiber works were gradually perceived as objects for aesthetic consumption rather than merely useful ones. By considering Works in Thread in its historical context, this article seeks to illuminate the multi-faceted sources for Israel’s early fiber art, and contextualize the local manifestation of of and the international studio craft movement.
本文讨论了以色列建国前三十年纺织品展览的历史,重点关注1975年在以色列博物馆设计与建筑部门举办的具有开创性但完全被忽视的展览“线中的作品”。正如这篇文章所展示的,“线中的作品”是实用和艺术纺织品的折衷汇编,包括手工和机器制造,但它特别强调了艺术纺织品的新媒介,或纤维艺术,在当地被称为“软线作品”。我认为这次展览作为一个考古遗址,揭示了以色列纺织生产的短暂历史中的多种趋势,特别是纺织品和纤维制品逐渐被视为审美消费的对象,而不仅仅是有用的过程。本文通过在历史语境中考察“线中作品”,试图阐明以色列早期纤维艺术的多方面来源,并将其在当地的表现和国际工作室工艺运动置于语境中。
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引用次数: 0
Identity Navigation and Self-Positioning in a Changing Craft World: Creativity and Cultures of Emerging Self-Employed Craft Workers in Jingdezhen 变化的工艺世界中的身份导航与自我定位——景德镇新兴个体工艺工人的创意与文化
3区 艺术学 Q3 Arts and Humanities Pub Date : 2023-11-07 DOI: 10.1080/17496772.2023.2269671
Ruoxi Liu
Following four-months of ethnographic fieldwork among the young, self-employed craft workers in Jingdezhen, this article explores the diverse identities and emerging cultures associated with craft that differ from the popular imaginaries of craftspeople, or shouyiren, in the Chinese mainstream media that focus on the older generations. By conducting participant observation, in-depth interviews, and the diary method, I found that while the profiles of “craft workers” or “craftspeople” are favoured by the recent waves of self-employed craft workers in Jingdezhen, these workers do not fully identify as craftspeople, traditionally characterised by their professionalism, perfectionism, enthusiasm, and persistence; nor as artists. Instead, they are positioned in between different identities, such as traditional craftsman, workman, artist-crafts worker, and artist. I argue that the wavering between different identities according to the occasion and targeted audience not only allows self-employed craft workers in Jingdezhen to escape from the monotonous routines and patriarchal norms of the older generations’ craft conventions, but also facilitates a re-configuration of craft identities within a craft industry that is changing. Secondly, I found that creativity is emphasised in their self-positioning and becomes an alternative means of achieving recognition, status and mobility in Jingdezhen’s craft industry. Based on these discussions, the study provides a fuller picture of a new form of craft labour developing in Jingdezhen.
本文对景德镇的年轻个体手工业工人进行了为期四个月的民族志田野调查,探讨了与手工业相关的不同身份和新兴文化,这些身份和新兴文化不同于中国主流媒体对手工业者的流行想象,或称手工业人,主要关注老一辈。通过参与观察、深度访谈、日记法等方法,笔者发现,在景德镇近年来的手工个体户浪潮中,“手工艺人”或“手工艺人”的形象受到青睐的同时,这些工人并没有完全认同自己是手工艺人,传统的手工艺人特征是专业、完美、热情和坚持;也不是作为艺术家。相反,他们被定位在不同的身份之间,例如传统工匠,工匠,艺术家-手工艺工人和艺术家。我认为,根据不同的场合和目标受众,在不同的身份之间摇摆,不仅让景德镇的个体户手工艺人摆脱了老一代手工艺传统的单调套路和父权规范,也促进了在一个正在变化的手工艺行业中重新配置手工艺身份。其次,我发现在景德镇的工艺产业中,创意被强调在自我定位上,成为获得认可、地位和流动性的另一种手段。基于这些讨论,本研究提供了景德镇一种新的手工艺劳动形式的更全面的图景。
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引用次数: 0
Anni Albers 安蒂阿爾博
IF 0.3 3区 艺术学 Q3 Arts and Humanities Pub Date : 2019-01-02 DOI: 10.1080/17496772.2019.1568036
A. Kettle
The Anni Albers exhibition, unusually for Tate Modern, London, opens with a twelve-shaft Counter March handloom comparable to the one that Albers used in her studio in Connecticut, United States. It ends with a film showing her reassembled loom in action. This bookending of the show with the hand weaver’s instrument emphasizes the traceability of material, and the possibilities of its making with various stages of change. Albers talks in her writing about the material possibilities of speculation, and the slow physical realization of work. She describes herself as being led by thread, “an active process, ... a listening for the dictation of the material and a taking in of the laws of harmony.” For Albers, who described weaving as “the event of the thread,” the actions of weaving set ideas in motion as a way of questioning and conceptualizing our being present in the world. This major exhibition at Tate Modern is without question the event both of the thread and of Albers, compelling in its color, intensely realized through complex weave structures, multiple grids, meandering lines and layered surfaces. In what is remarkably the first major showing of Albers’ work, the exhibition draws attention to the overlooked contribution of women artists and of applied artistic practice, both historically relegated as subsidiary to the fine arts. It reclaims the importance of women’s practice through this pioneering artist’s work—who, as a woman, was directed into weave at the Bauhaus—but also in the curatorial team: Ann
安妮·阿尔伯斯(Anni Albers)的展览,不同寻常地为伦敦泰特现代美术馆(Tate Modern)举办,以一台12轴Counter March手摇织机开场,这台手摇织机与阿尔伯斯在美国康涅狄格州工作室使用的织机相当。它以一段展示她重新组装的织布机的视频结束。以手工编织器作为展览的开篇,强调了材料的可追溯性,以及随着不同阶段的变化而产生的可能性。阿尔伯斯在她的作品中谈到了投机的物质可能性,以及工作缓慢的物理实现。她形容自己像被线牵着走,“一个积极的过程,……一是听写材料,二是领会和谐的法则。”阿尔伯斯将编织描述为“线的事件”,编织的行为将想法作为一种质疑和概念化我们在世界上存在的方式。这场在泰特现代美术馆举办的大型展览无疑是关于线和阿尔伯斯的事件,它的色彩引人注目,通过复杂的编织结构、多个网格、蜿蜒的线条和分层的表面来强烈地实现。这是阿尔伯斯作品的第一次重要展示,展览引起了人们对女性艺术家和应用艺术实践的忽视贡献的关注,这两者在历史上都被视为美术的附属品。它通过这位先锋艺术家的作品重申了女性实践的重要性——作为一名女性,她被指导在包豪斯编织——也在策展团队中:安
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引用次数: 0
Live Form, Women, Ceramics, and Community 生活形式,妇女,陶瓷和社区
IF 0.3 3区 艺术学 Q3 Arts and Humanities Pub Date : 2018-05-04 DOI: 10.1080/17496772.2018.1493793
Moira Vincentelli.
Jenni Sorkin’s extensively researched book Live Form is focused broadly around the lives, work, and writing of three women potters: Margeurite Wildenhain (1896–1985), Mary Caroline (M.C.) Richards (1916–1999), and Susan Peterson (1925–2009). The wider context of the discussion creates a bold and compelling argument linking their activities to the performative and participatory practices of the avant-garde: not a place where studio pottery often sits. Admittedly, two of the women had connections with that quintessential institution of the avant-garde in the United States, Black Mountain College in North Carolina, but the approaches of all three were arrived at autonomously and move on in different directions. These women, it is argued, can be seen as proto-feminists. None are strongly identified with the feminist polemics of the third quarter of the twentieth century; rather, they are independent thinkers and doers, ploughing their own furrow. All three were practicing potters making functional vessels, but their pottery features only modestly in the canon of ceramic art. Their significance, Sorkin proposes, lies in a commitment to clay work as a holistic life experience, which they fostered through teaching, writing, and lifestyle choices.
詹妮·索尔金的《生活形式》一书进行了广泛的研究,主要围绕三位女性陶艺家的生活、工作和写作展开:玛格丽特·威尔登海恩(1896-1985)、玛丽·卡罗琳(M.C.)。理查兹(1916-1999)和苏珊·彼得森(1925-2009)。讨论的更广泛的背景创造了一个大胆而令人信服的论点,将他们的活动与先锋派的表演和参与性实践联系起来:不是工作室陶器经常坐的地方。诚然,其中两名女性与美国先锋艺术的典型机构——北卡罗来纳州的黑山学院(Black Mountain College)有联系,但这三人的研究方法都是自主形成的,并朝着不同的方向发展。有人认为,这些女性可以被视为女权主义者的原型。没有人强烈认同20世纪第三季度的女权主义论战;相反,他们是独立的思考者和实干家,各自耕耘。这三个人都是制作功能性器皿的陶工,但他们的陶器在陶瓷艺术的经典中只占很小的地位。索尔金提出,他们的意义在于,他们通过教学、写作和生活方式的选择,将泥塑作为一种整体的生活体验。
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引用次数: 3
Grant Wood: American Gothic and Other Fables 《格兰特·伍德:美国的哥特和其他寓言
IF 0.3 3区 艺术学 Q3 Arts and Humanities Pub Date : 2018-05-04 DOI: 10.1080/17496772.2018.1493789
U. G. Dietz
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引用次数: 0
Craftwork as Problem Solving: Ethnographic Studies of Design and Making 作为解决问题的工艺:设计和制作的民族志研究
IF 0.3 3区 艺术学 Q3 Arts and Humanities Pub Date : 2018-05-04 DOI: 10.1080/17496772.2018.1493788
Helen Carnac
Trevor Marchand is a well-known anthropologist and Emeritus Professor at the School of Oriental and African Studies, London. His research has traversed areas of making from Minaret building and apprenticeship in Yemen to research at the Building Crafts College, London where he apprenticed himself on a course in fine woodwork. Validating his research through practice, he has become a touchstone for many writers on the crafts. In 2013, he convened a two-day workshop at the “Making Futures” conference in Plymouth, entitled “Craftwork as Problem Solving,” and the outcomes and papers given at this have formed the outline of this volume. The book has thirteen chapters written by “a cross-disciplinary group, consisting of designer makers, artists, an architect, a filmmaker and several anthropologists of craft,” who were invited to “examine the ways that problems are encountered, searched for, conceived of, and resolved in craft” (p. 1). Marchand describes how the term “Craft” is polythetic: the subjects in this book may be described as such, sharing “some but not necessarily all the properties” (p. 8) that Marchand attributes to the crafts: it is indeed very wideranging, from the craft of training Suffolk Punch horses to a chapter on the place of craft in building conservation. Marchand states that his “longer term objectives as an anthropologist (are) to better grasp how craftspeople come to
Trevor Marchand是一位著名的人类学家,也是伦敦大学亚非学院的名誉教授。他的研究跨越了制作领域,从也门的尖塔建筑和学徒到伦敦建筑工艺学院(building Crafts College)的研究,在那里他自学了一门精细木制品课程。通过实践验证他的研究,他已经成为许多工艺作家的试金石。2013年,他在普利茅斯的“制造未来”会议上召开了为期两天的研讨会,题为“工艺作为问题解决方案”,会议上的成果和论文构成了本书的大纲。这本书有13章,由“一个跨学科的小组,由设计师、制造者、艺术家、建筑师、电影制作人和几位工艺人类学家组成”,他们被邀请“研究在工艺中遇到、寻找、构思和解决问题的方式”(第1页)。Marchand描述了“工艺”一词是如何综合的:这本书中的主题可以这样描述,分享“一些但不一定是所有的属性”(第8页),Marchand将其归因于工艺:它确实非常广泛,从训练萨福克拳击马的工艺到关于工艺在建筑保护中的地位的一章。Marchand说他“作为一名人类学家的长期目标是更好地理解手工艺人是如何形成的
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引用次数: 0
Medusa, Bijoux et Tabous 美杜莎、珠宝和禁忌
IF 0.3 3区 艺术学 Q3 Arts and Humanities Pub Date : 2017-09-02 DOI: 10.1080/17496772.2017.1394529
Liesbeth den Besten
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引用次数: 0
Amateur Craft: History and Theory 业余工艺:历史与理论
IF 0.3 3区 艺术学 Q3 Arts and Humanities Pub Date : 2016-09-01 DOI: 10.1080/17496772.2016.1249096
Amy Twigger Holroyd
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引用次数: 0
Wilhelmina Geddes: Life and Work Wilhelmina Geddes:生活和工作
IF 0.3 3区 艺术学 Q3 Arts and Humanities Pub Date : 2016-01-02 DOI: 10.1080/17496772.2016.1183949
Joseph McBrinn
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引用次数: 0
Fiber: Sculpture 1960–Present 纤维:雕塑1960年至今
IF 0.3 3区 艺术学 Q3 Arts and Humanities Pub Date : 2015-05-04 DOI: 10.1080/17496772.2015.1057409
Elizabeth Bacon Eager
Touring exhibition, Institute of Contemporary Art, Boston, MA, October 1, 2014–January 4, 2015. Also on display at the Wexner Center for the Arts, Columbus, OH, January 30–April 5, 2015 and Des Moi...
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引用次数: 0
期刊
Journal of Modern Craft
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