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Away from Violence toward Justice: A Content Analysis of Cultural Appropriation Claims from 2013–2020 远离暴力走向正义:2013-2020年文化挪用诉求的内容分析
IF 1.1 4区 社会学 0 HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Pub Date : 2022-09-29 DOI: 10.1080/17569370.2022.2118333
Kristian Hogans, Laura E. McAndrews
Abstract The purpose of the study was to explore instances of cultural appropriation by fashion designers and brands (FD&B), identify cultural sources of inspiration, and, through a justice-centered lens, critique how practices of appropriation manifest as violence. A latent content analysis approach was utilized to focus on the underlying meanings of cultural appropriation in the fashion design practices of fashion designers and brands. Cultural appropriation practices manifested through three theme categories: a) the white lens, b) the capitalist motive, and c) negligence in the research process. Analysis showed that practices extend beyond the traditional definition of cultural appropriation, the apparel design process has connections to violent practices that manifest in cultural appropriation, and positionality plays a role in the apparel design process and research. Future areas of research are suggested concerning cultural appropriation research, the apparel design process, and apparel design education.
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引用次数: 1
The Fashion Buying Career of Vanessa Denza: A Case Study Analysis to Inform Future Buying Skills 凡妮莎·丹扎的时尚买手生涯:对未来买手技巧的个案分析
IF 1.1 4区 社会学 0 HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Pub Date : 2022-09-16 DOI: 10.1080/17569370.2022.2116147
K. Almond
Abstract This article traces the long career of the international fashion buyer and recruitment consultant, Vanessa Denza. It is the first study to document Denza’s profession and incorporates research secured from access to her private work archive, which was located at her home in Berkshire, England. With no formal education in buying, Denza took a series of internships that formed the beginning of her on-the-job training as a fashion buyer and led to an important role as the buyer for a pioneering store aimed at younger people, The 21 Shop at Woollands in Knightsbridge, London, UK. Here, she promoted exciting designers who worked with revolutionary new shapes and colours and introduced radical new ways to sell fashion. Subsequent roles led to her directing a series of global fashion boutiques; the establishment of her international fashion buying office and recruitment consultancy; and an influential role in developing global fashion education. The article pinpoints the key buying skills that Denza considered essential within her career and seeks opinions on them in relation to future skills requirements for fashion buying. The aim is to understand and contextualise this expertise within in an ever-changing, global fashion industry.
本文追溯了国际时尚买手和招聘顾问Vanessa Denza的漫长职业生涯。这是第一个记录Denza职业的研究,并纳入了来自她位于英格兰伯克郡家中的私人工作档案的研究。在没有接受过正规的购买教育的情况下,Denza参加了一系列的实习,这是她作为时尚买手的在职培训的开始,并在英国伦敦骑士桥伍兰兹的一家面向年轻人的先锋商店the 21 Shop担任买手的重要角色。在这里,她提拔了令人兴奋的设计师,他们采用了革命性的新形状和颜色,并引入了激进的新方式来销售时装。随后的角色使她指导了一系列全球时尚精品店;成立她的国际时尚采购办公室和招聘顾问;并在发展全球时尚教育方面发挥着重要作用。这篇文章指出了Denza认为在她的职业生涯中必不可少的关键购买技能,并就这些技能与未来时尚购买技能的要求征求意见。其目的是在不断变化的全球时尚产业中理解和背景化这种专业知识。
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引用次数: 0
Application of Design Intervention in the Sri Lankan Handloom Industry 设计干预在斯里兰卡手摇织机行业的应用
IF 1.1 4区 社会学 0 HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Pub Date : 2022-09-15 DOI: 10.1080/17569370.2022.2112423
T. Wanniarachchi, D. Dissanayake, C. Downs
Abstract To be competitive in the marketplace, the community handloom craft business needs to be combined with contemporary sensibility and innovation in order to create goods that meet existing consumer demands. This study explores craft-design collaboration possibilities and finds co-creation is an effective means to overcome challenges to design intervention and market identification. Through a qualitative approach, this case study and participatory action research developed collaborative innovation between designers and craftspeople through a co-creation process. This employment of design interventions has the potential to help develop handloom community businesses by providing appropriate product design solutions. The results will aid the handloom industry and government in developing strategic design approaches that consider social, economic, and cultural factors.
社区手工工艺企业要想在市场上具有竞争力,就需要结合当代的感性和创新精神,创造出符合现有消费者需求的商品。本研究探讨了工艺设计合作的可能性,发现共同创造是克服设计介入和市场认同挑战的有效手段。通过定性的方法,这个案例研究和参与式行动研究通过共同创造的过程,在设计师和工匠之间发展了协作创新。通过提供适当的产品设计解决方案,这种设计干预的就业有可能帮助发展手摇织机社区企业。研究结果将有助于手摇织机行业和政府制定考虑社会、经济和文化因素的战略设计方法。
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引用次数: 0
Limited or Limitless? Exploring the Potential of NFTs on Value Creation in Luxury Fashion 有限还是无限?探索nft在奢侈品时尚价值创造中的潜力
IF 1.1 4区 社会学 0 HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Pub Date : 2022-09-02 DOI: 10.1080/17569370.2022.2118969
Bethan Alexander, Niccolò Bellandi
Abstract Accelerated by the global pandemic, the speed of technology adoption has significantly increased, resulting in new business opportunities, channels, touchpoints and digital toolkits. One such burgeoning technology which is generating increasing attention is Nonfungible tokens (NFTs). Adopting an exploratory approach, this study aims to develop a deeper understanding of the value of NFTs from a luxury business and consumer perspective. Taking a qualitative approach, interviews were conducted with luxury experts and consumers, totaling 11 informants. Our findings revealed new technology acceptance and value dimensions in addition to the existing dimensions from literature, within a luxury context, from which two models ensue, NFT value creation and NFT digital strategies. The research makes a valuable contribution to the paucity of existing scholarly studies on blockchain and NFTs and their value creation within a luxury context. It serves to provide preliminary insight into perceptions toward and potential value creation of NFTs for both luxury industry and consumers to inform future luxury digital strategies.
全球大流行加速了技术采用的速度,从而产生了新的商业机会、渠道、接触点和数字工具包。其中一项引起越来越多关注的新兴技术是不可替代代币(nft)。本研究采用探索性的方法,旨在从奢侈品企业和消费者的角度对nft的价值有更深入的了解。采用定性方法,对奢侈品专家和消费者进行了访谈,共计11名线人。我们的研究结果揭示了新的技术接受度和价值维度,除了现有的文献维度,在奢侈品的背景下,由此产生了两个模型,NFT价值创造和NFT数字战略。该研究为现有关于区块链和nft及其在奢侈品背景下的价值创造的学术研究的缺乏做出了宝贵贡献。它为奢侈品行业和消费者提供了对nft的看法和潜在价值创造的初步见解,为未来的奢侈品数字战略提供信息。
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引用次数: 6
Digital Fashion Revolutions: Supply Chain Transparency, Digitalization and the Non-Disclosure Paradox 数字时尚革命:供应链透明度、数字化和保密悖论
IF 1.1 4区 社会学 0 HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Pub Date : 2022-09-02 DOI: 10.1080/17569370.2022.2118975
H. Heim
Abstract The emergence of digital technology as a ‘cure-all’ for sustainable practice has captured the imagination of observers and entrepreneurs alike. Among these technologies, blockchain has been cited as the ideal tool to optimize supply chain transparency. However, despite the abundance of effusively disseminated information in the media, the lack of blockchain applications that are universally accessible, and their negligible uptake raises doubts as to its utility. In particular, small to medium enterprises (SMEs) have for several reasons been slow to adopt blockchain technologies. ‘Digital hesitancy’; lack of common data standards; complex and tedious data collection and transfer; immaturity of the technology; no effective universal platform; lack of resources; and reluctance to share data with perceived competitors are common obstacles. This study explores one of these barriers to adoption, that is, the reluctance to disclose supply chain information to potential competitors. Taking a qualitative approach, the study analyses the current perception of blockchain enabled supply chain transparency through interviews with small scale fashion firms and technology start-ups. Applying a lens of technology adoption theories, the study seeks to understand how supply chain transparency might be satisfactorily managed and even accelerated through technology uptake. A misunderstanding of the software’s capabilities is evident. Many firms seem unaware that the software can be applied to provide managed access to information—arguably providing an advantage over extant transparency measures such as public self disclosure or reliance on third party certifications. This study identifies that because of lack of ‘education’, firms are ill-informed and under-utilizing technologies that are potentially more advantageous than current analogue approaches—that could circumvent the information disclosure paradox.
作为可持续实践的“万灵药”,数字技术的出现吸引了观察者和企业家的想象力。在这些技术中,区块链被认为是优化供应链透明度的理想工具。然而,尽管媒体中传播了大量热情洋溢的信息,但缺乏普遍可访问的区块链应用程序,而且它们的吸收微不足道,这使人们对其效用产生了怀疑。特别是,由于一些原因,中小型企业(SMEs)在采用区块链技术方面进展缓慢。“数字犹豫”;缺乏共同的数据标准;数据收集和传输复杂繁琐;技术不成熟;没有有效的通用平台;缺乏资源;不愿与竞争对手分享数据是常见的障碍。本研究探讨了这些采用的障碍之一,即不愿向潜在竞争对手披露供应链信息。该研究采用定性方法,通过对小规模时装公司和科技初创企业的采访,分析了目前对区块链启用供应链透明度的看法。运用技术采用理论的视角,本研究试图了解如何通过技术采用来令人满意地管理甚至加速供应链透明度。对软件功能的误解是显而易见的。许多公司似乎没有意识到,该软件可以用于提供有管理的信息访问——可以说,它比现有的透明度措施(如公开自我披露或依赖第三方认证)有优势。这项研究表明,由于缺乏“教育”,企业信息不充分,对技术的利用不足,而这些技术可能比目前的类似方法更有利,从而可以规避信息披露悖论。
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引用次数: 3
Young Consumer Perspectives on Government Policy Interventions for Sustainable Fashion Consumption in the UK 年轻消费者对英国可持续时尚消费的政府政策干预的看法
IF 1.1 4区 社会学 0 HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Pub Date : 2022-09-02 DOI: 10.1080/17569370.2022.2125149
Eunsuk Hur, Eleanor Faragher- Siddall
Abstract Sustainability has been one of the most salient issues in the fashion industry in recent years. The COVID-19 pandemic has prompted a reawakening of the environmental and ethical issues in garment production and consumption. Young consumers are actively raising their voices on the currently unsustainable state of the fashion industry system. Despite this, their perspectives on policy intervention in sustainable fashion are often overlooked. This study focuses on the challenges associated with sustainable consumption behaviors among young consumers and reveals the enabling factors that leverage sustainable actions via policy intervention. In-depth interviews were conducted to investigate the potential effectiveness of proposed policies in creating effective behavioral change within the UK market. The study found that eco-labelling and educational policies have particularly high levels of consumer support. Eco-labelling is considered a critical educational and awareness-raising tool for supporting sustainable fashion consumption; however, the existing labelling approach is inadequate due to the complexity of current terminology, lack of eco-literacy, and consumers’ distrust of industry claims about eco-products, flagging a need to ensure industry transparency. New attention-grabbing labelling, universal eco-terminology and more effective and transparent green communication strategies using a combination of physical and other digital communication are required.
近年来,可持续发展一直是时尚行业最突出的问题之一。2019冠状病毒病大流行促使人们重新意识到服装生产和消费中的环境和道德问题。年轻的消费者正积极地对目前不可持续的时尚产业体系发出自己的声音。尽管如此,他们对可持续方式政策干预的观点往往被忽视。本研究聚焦于年轻消费者可持续消费行为的相关挑战,并揭示了通过政策干预撬动可持续行动的促成因素。我们进行了深度访谈,以调查拟议政策在英国市场内创造有效行为改变方面的潜在有效性。研究发现,生态标签和教育政策得到了消费者的高度支持。生态标签被认为是支持可持续时尚消费的重要教育和提高认识的工具;然而,由于当前术语的复杂性,缺乏生态知识,以及消费者对生态产品的行业声明的不信任,现有的标签方法是不够的,这表明需要确保行业透明度。需要新的引人注目的标签、通用的生态术语以及结合物理和其他数字通信的更有效和透明的绿色通信战略。
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引用次数: 0
“Experiential Retail Environments” in the Fashion Sector 时尚界的“体验式零售环境”
IF 1.1 4区 社会学 0 HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Pub Date : 2022-09-02 DOI: 10.1080/17569370.2022.2124639
Elisa Servais, Quartier Katelijn, V. Jan
Abstract This article examines the phenomenon of “Experiential Retail Environments” (EREs) in the fashion sector in view of being useful to retail design practice. A discovery-oriented research approach was applied to understand: (i) what an ERE is; (ii) how in-store experience is triggered; and (iii) how the experiential dimension is integrated in the retail designer’s processes. Data were collected through the combination of a literature review and interviews conducted with representatives of the stakeholder groups most concerned with fashion retail design projects: retailers, retail designers, and customers. The research provided valuable clarifications. First, it helped to propose two definitions for the term ERE, one more specifically suited to a retail professional audience and the other accounting for the customer perspective. Second, it showed in-store experience to be created at two levels: through the combination of tangible aspects that generates varying customer perceptions, representing a more conceptual level for the experience. Finally, it surfaced that though there is a call for more experience integration in the fashion retail sector, currently, there is no systematic approach for this in the physical retail design process. In most cases, experiential considerations are left to the retailer and dealt with after the store concept has been designed.
摘要本文探讨了时尚界的“体验式零售环境”(EREs)现象,以期对零售设计实践有所帮助。采用了以发现为导向的研究方法来理解:(i)什么是环境教育;(ii)店内体验是如何触发的;(三)体验维度如何融入零售设计师的流程。通过文献综述和与最关注时尚零售设计项目的利益相关者群体代表(零售商、零售设计师和客户)的访谈,收集数据。这项研究提供了有价值的说明。首先,它帮助提出了术语ERE的两个定义,一个更适合零售专业受众,另一个考虑到客户的角度。其次,它表明店内体验是在两个层面上创造的:通过有形方面的结合,产生不同的客户感知,代表了体验的更概念化的层面。最后,研究发现,虽然在时尚零售领域有更多的经验整合的呼声,但目前在实体零售设计过程中并没有系统的方法。在大多数情况下,体验方面的考虑留给零售商,并在商店概念设计完成后处理。
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引用次数: 0
Towards Transformation: Digitalization, Sustainability and Customer Experience 走向转型:数字化、可持续性和客户体验
IF 1.1 4区 社会学 0 HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Pub Date : 2022-09-02 DOI: 10.1080/17569370.2022.2129468
Alexander Bethan, C. Rutter
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引用次数: 0
“It’s the Time You Got to Wear Whatever You Wanted”: Pre-Teen Girls Negotiating Gender, Sexuality and Age through Fashion “现在是你想穿什么就穿什么的时候了”:青春期前的女孩通过时尚来协商性别、性取向和年龄
IF 1.1 4区 社会学 0 HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Pub Date : 2022-09-02 DOI: 10.1080/17569370.2022.2118974
Julie Blanchard-Emmerson
Abstract Worries about the marketing of fashion to pre-teen girls and the power of fashionable clothes to sexualize these girls, have been on-going for some time. However, there is little research with this age group of girls that explicitly explores the ways in which fashionable clothes are understood and worn by the girls themselves and the impact on their sense of identity. Yet girls are increasingly considered in childhood sociology to be competent social actors able to articulate something of their own interactions and understanding of their social worlds. This study uses focus groups, participant photography and interviews with 32 predominately white, middle-class girls from the South of England, to examine pre-teen girls’ fashion practices to address this gap in knowledge. This article argues that young girls are active and thoughtful in their consumption of dress, aware of the construction of gender norms in responding to aged sexual expectations as they decide what to wear. In considering the context of their constructions of aged, gendered and (a)sexualized identity, girls code-switched between identity forms, actively constituting their subjectivity through clothing.
关于时尚营销对青春期前女孩的影响以及时尚服装对这些女孩性感化的影响的担忧已经持续了一段时间。然而,很少有针对这个年龄段的女孩的研究明确地探讨了女孩自己对时尚服装的理解和穿着方式,以及对她们认同感的影响。然而,在儿童社会学中,女孩越来越被认为是有能力的社会行动者,能够阐明她们自己的互动和对社会世界的理解。本研究采用焦点小组、参与者摄影和对32名来自英格兰南部的白人中产阶级女孩的采访,来研究青春期前女孩的时尚行为,以解决这一知识差距。这篇文章认为,年轻女孩在服装消费方面是积极和深思熟虑的,在决定穿什么时,她们意识到性别规范的构建是对年龄的性期望的回应。考虑到她们对年龄、性别和(a)性别化身份的建构背景,女孩在身份形式之间进行了代码转换,通过服装积极地构成了她们的主体性。
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引用次数: 0
Enhancing User Experience in Fashion m-Retail: Mapping Shopping User Journey Using Google Analytics, Eye Tracking Technology and Retrospective Think Aloud Interview 增强时尚移动零售的用户体验:使用谷歌分析、眼动追踪技术和回顾性思考访谈绘制购物用户旅程
IF 1.1 4区 社会学 0 HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Pub Date : 2022-09-02 DOI: 10.1080/17569370.2022.2129466
Zofija Tupikovskaja-Omovie
Abstract With increased mobile traffic to fashion retailers’ websites, conversion rates are lower than for desktop users. Mobile consumers more readily abandon retailers if not satisfied with their shopping experience. There is a dearth of literature involving Google Analytics to analyze digital consumer shopping behavior and customer journeys. Retailers need to innovate the ways they approach the vast amount of digital analytics data. This research highlights the need for continuous auditing of Google Analytics data to ensure retailers understand the behavior of their mobile consumers and respond to their needs accordingly. A multi-method research design incorporated mobile fashion consumer data from Google Analytics, innovative mobile eye tracking technology and retrospective think aloud. A comparison of consumer shopping journeys showed that a Digital User Journey Mapping Framework based on eye tracking data can be used to audit Google Analytics datasets and to understand what elements of the fashion retailer’s website consumers prefer to interact with. Retrospective think aloud interviews complementing eye tracking experiments define how digital user experience can be improved in fashion m-retail. The shopping journey map framework can be used for mobile fashion consumer behavior analysis, auditing Google Analytics datasets and enhancing digital user experience.
随着手机流量的增加,时尚零售商网站的转化率低于桌面用户。如果移动消费者对购物体验不满意,他们更容易放弃零售商。使用谷歌分析来分析数字消费者购物行为和顾客旅程的文献很少。零售商需要创新处理海量数字分析数据的方式。这项研究强调了对Google Analytics数据进行持续审计的必要性,以确保零售商了解其移动消费者的行为并相应地响应他们的需求。一项多方法研究设计结合了来自谷歌分析的移动时尚消费者数据,创新的移动眼动追踪技术和回顾性思考出声。对消费者购物旅程的比较表明,基于眼动追踪数据的数字用户旅程地图框架可以用来审计谷歌分析数据集,并了解消费者更喜欢与时尚零售商网站的哪些元素互动。回顾性的大声思考访谈与眼动追踪实验相辅相成,定义了如何改善时尚移动零售的数字用户体验。购物旅程地图框架可用于移动时尚消费者行为分析,审计谷歌分析数据集和增强数字用户体验。
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引用次数: 0
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Fashion Practice-The Journal of Design Creative Process & the Fashion Industry
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