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International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology最新文献

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Real performance analysis of drape of virtual cotton fabric based on Style3D 基于 Style3D 的虚拟棉织物悬垂性真实性能分析
IF 1.2 4区 工程技术 Q3 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2024-09-19 DOI: 10.1108/ijcst-01-2024-0014
Chen Liu, Huafeng Feng

Purpose

To investigate whether the actual effects of eight drape characteristics of virtual fabrics can be manifested in the Style 3D software.

Design/methodology/approach

Image analysis was conducted using MATLAB software to obtain the drape characteristics of virtual fabrics. Pair the drape characteristics of the real and virtual fabrics for difference. The S-W method was used to conduct a normality test to obtain the correlation of paired samples. A paired sample t-test was performed to obtain the significance values.

Findings

The simulation restoration performance of the drape coefficient, number of undulations, maximum undulation angle, minimum undulation angle and undulation angle uniformity was good. However, there are differences in the simulation performance of the other three indicators: maximum undulation amplitude, minimum undulation amplitude and undulation amplitude uniformity compared to the drape characteristics of real fabrics.

Originality/value

Provides reference value for the improvement of Style3D software in virtual fabric simulation and finds the main influential parameters and their impact levels that contribute to the realistic representation of virtual fabrics in software. It provides a theoretical basis for course teaching in digital fashion.

设计/方法/步骤使用 MATLAB 软件进行图像分析,获得虚拟织物的悬垂特性。将真实面料和虚拟面料的悬垂特性进行配对,找出差异。采用 S-W 法进行正态性检验,以获得配对样本的相关性。结果悬垂系数、起伏次数、最大起伏角、最小起伏角和起伏角均匀性的模拟还原性能良好。原创性/价值为改进 Style3D 软件在虚拟织物仿真中的应用提供了参考价值,找到了有助于软件真实表现虚拟织物的主要影响参数及其影响程度。为数字化服装的课程教学提供了理论依据。
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引用次数: 0
Design and three-dimensional simulation of flat-knitted sports uppers based on loop structure 基于线圈结构的平针织运动鞋面的设计与三维模拟
IF 1.2 4区 工程技术 Q3 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2024-09-11 DOI: 10.1108/ijcst-08-2023-0119
Junjie Zhao, Gaoming Jiang, Bingxian Li

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to solve the diverse and complex problems of flat-knitting sports upper process design, improve the design ability of upper organization, and realize three-dimensional simulation function.

Design/methodology/approach

Firstly, the matrix is used to establish the corresponding pattern diagram and organizational diagram model, and the relationship between the two is established by color coding as a bridge to completed the transformation of the flat-knitted sports upper process design model. Secondly, the spatial coordinates of the loop type value points are obtained through the establishment of loop mesh model, the index of two-dimensional and three-dimensional models of uppers and the establishment of spatial transformation relationship. Finally, using Visual Studio as a development tool, use the C# language to implement this series of processes.

Findings

Digitizing the fabric into a matrix model, combined with matrix transformation, can quickly realize the design of the flat-knitting process. Taking the knitting diagram of the upper process as the starting point, the loop geometry model corresponding to the element information is established, and the three-dimensional simulation effect of the flat-knitted upper based on the loop structure is realized under the premise of ensuring that it can be knitted.

Originality/value

This paper proposes a design and modeling method for flat-knitted uppers. Taking the upper design process and 3D simulation effect as an example, the feasibility of the method is verified, which improves the efficiency of the development of the flat-knitted upper product and lays the foundation for the high-end customization of the flat-knitted upper.

设计/方法/途径首先,利用矩阵建立相应的图案图和组织图模型,并以颜色编码为桥梁建立两者之间的关系,完成平针织运动鞋面工艺设计模型的转化。其次,通过建立回路网格模型、鞋面二维和三维模型的索引以及空间变换关系的建立,得到回路类型值点的空间坐标。最后,以Visual Studio为开发工具,使用C#语言实现这一系列过程。研究结果将面料数字化为矩阵模型,结合矩阵变换,可以快速实现横机编织工艺的设计。以鞋面工艺编织图为起点,建立与元素信息相对应的线圈几何模型,在保证可编织的前提下,实现基于线圈结构的横机鞋面三维仿真效果。以鞋面设计过程和三维仿真效果为例,验证了该方法的可行性,提高了横机鞋面产品的开发效率,为横机鞋面的高端定制奠定了基础。
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引用次数: 0
Influence of coconut and castor oil coating on engine intake non-woven filter performance 椰子油和蓖麻油涂层对发动机进气无纺布过滤器性能的影响
IF 1.2 4区 工程技术 Q3 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2024-09-06 DOI: 10.1108/ijcst-04-2024-0095
Gobi Nallathambi, Rajalekshmi Akasaperumal, Berly Robert

Purpose

This research focuses on the development and characterization of oil-wetted spun-bonded polypropylene (PP) non-woven filters for improved air intake systems in automobiles. The study aims to enhance engine performance, durability, fuel economy and emission reduction by addressing key aspects such as contaminants filtration efficiency, loading capacity, pressure drop, temperature performance and longevity.

Design/methodology/approach

The research methodology involves the utilization of textile fabrics, particularly oil-wetted spun-bonded PP non-woven filters, renowned for their effective particle collection capability from intake air. Experiments were conducted using a Box–Behnken design with three variables – oil concentration, areal density and dust quantity – each at three different levels to establish correlations with the filter’s dust holding capacity (DHC) and pressure drop.

Findings

The findings indicate that immersing particles in oil-coated medium significantly enhances the filter’s DHC. Notably, castor oil as a coating demonstrates remarkable results, with a 97.53% increase in DHC and a high particulate matter filtration efficiency of 94.12%.

Originality/value

This study contributes to the originality of research by emphasizing the importance of oil density in determining the filter’s DHC and filtration efficiency. Furthermore, it highlights the superiority of castor oil over coconut oil-coated filter media, advancing air intake and/or filter systems for automotive engines.

目的 本研究的重点是开发和表征用于改进汽车进气系统的油润湿纺粘型聚丙烯(PP)无纺布过滤器。这项研究旨在通过解决污染物过滤效率、负载能力、压降、温度性能和使用寿命等关键问题,提高发动机性能、耐用性、燃油经济性和减排效果。研究方法包括利用纺织织物,特别是油浸湿纺粘型聚丙烯无纺布过滤器,这种过滤器以其有效的进气颗粒收集能力而闻名。实验采用箱式贝肯设计,在三个不同水平上分别使用油浓度、等密度和灰尘量这三个变量,以建立与过滤器的容尘量(DHC)和压降之间的相关性。值得注意的是,作为涂层的蓖麻油效果显著,DHC 提高了 97.53%,颗粒物过滤效率高达 94.12%。此外,它还强调了蓖麻油比椰子油涂层过滤介质的优越性,从而推动了汽车发动机进气和/或过滤系统的发展。
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引用次数: 0
Deformable patch-based garment design in immersive virtual reality 沉浸式虚拟现实中基于可变形补丁的服装设计
IF 1.2 4区 工程技术 Q3 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2024-09-02 DOI: 10.1108/ijcst-03-2024-0080
Minjoo Kang, Sungmin Kim

Purpose

This study aims to create and deform 3D garment apparel in an immersive virtual reality using head-mounted display and controllers. For this, adequate design methods for immersive virtual environment were explored and developed in order to confirm the suitability of the developed methods.

Design/methodology/approach

An immersive virtual environment was prepared using Unreal Engine (UE) version 5.1 and Meta Human Lexi to create template garment that corresponds to the sizes of a human model. Dual quaternion skinning was adopted for pose deformation. For size deformation, patches were constructed with the measurement lines defined on Lexi. This patch-based approach was adopted not only for automatic generation but also for flat pattern projection of the template garment.

Findings

The research found that garment-making process can be brought into immersive virtual reality. Free use of one's hands and body made apparel deformation in an immersive environment conform with the real garment draping process.

Originality/value

Simulating garment making in an immersive virtual reality has not previously been explored in detail. This research discovered, implemented and tested methods that best suit the environment where head-mounted display and controllers are essential in detail.

目的本研究旨在使用头戴式显示器和控制器在沉浸式虚拟现实中创建和变形三维服装。设计/方法/途径使用虚幻引擎(UE)5.1 版和 Meta Human Lexi 准备了一个沉浸式虚拟环境,以创建与人体模型尺寸相对应的服装模板。姿势变形采用了双四元数蒙皮技术。对于尺寸变形,则使用 Lexi 上定义的测量线构建补丁。这种基于补丁的方法不仅可用于自动生成,还可用于模板服装的平面图案投影。研究发现,服装制作过程可以带入身临其境的虚拟现实中,自由使用双手和身体使服装在身临其境的环境中变形,从而与真实的服装悬垂过程保持一致。这项研究发现、实施并测试了最适合头戴式显示器和控制器必不可少的详细环境的方法。
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引用次数: 0
The principal component analysis method to study mechanical properties and denim manufactured garment shrinkage 用主成分分析法研究机械性能和牛仔布制成品的缩水率
IF 1.2 4区 工程技术 Q3 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2024-09-02 DOI: 10.1108/ijcst-11-2023-0173
Faouzi Khedher, Boubaker Jaouachi
<h3>Purpose</h3><p>The purpose of this work is to study the relationship between the fabric’s mechanical properties such as tear strength (<em>T</em><sub><em>S</em></sub>), breaking strength (<em>B</em><sub><em>S</em></sub>) and cloth’s dimensional stability (<em>Sh</em>), particularly, after industrial launderings (stone wash, enzyme wash, mixed wash and rinse). Hence, we select the most interrelationships using the principal component analysis (PCA) technique. In this study, the treatments of finishing garments during washing are the important parameters influencing the cloth’s dimensional and the fabric’s mechanical properties. To improve the obtained results, the selected significant inputs are also analyzed within their influence on shrinkage. The polynomial regression model relating the tear strength and the shrinkage of denim fabric proves the effectiveness of the PCA method and the obtained findings.</p><!--/ Abstract__block --><h3>Design/methodology/approach</h3><p>To investigate the matter, the type of washing, and their contributions to shrinkage, four types of fabrics manufactured into pants were used. These fabrics differ not only by their basis weights (medium and heavy weight fabrics) but, also by their compositions (within and without elastane) and their thread count (warp and weft yarn count, twist and density. To evaluate significant results, a factorial design analysis based on an experimental design was established. The choice of these treatments, as well as their design mode, led us to make a complete factorial experimental design.</p><!--/ Abstract__block --><h3>Findings</h3><p>According to the results, the prediction of shrinkage behavior as a function of the process washing input parameters seems significant and useful in our experimental design of interest. As a consequence, it was also concluded that after these input parameters, we can find the relationship between the shrinkage (<em>Sh</em><sub><em>warp</em></sub> and <em>Sh</em><sub><em>weft</em></sub>) and the mechanical properties such as tear strength (<em>T</em><sub><em>Swarp</em></sub> and <em>T</em><sub><em>Sweft</em></sub>) and breaking strength (<em>B</em><sub><em>Swarp</em></sub> and <em>B</em><sub><em>Sweft</em></sub>). Thanks to the PCA, it is very easy to reduce the number of the influent output parameters, and knowing these significant parameters, the prediction of mechanical properties knowing the shrinkage of denim garment, during the process of washing seems successful and can undoubtedly help industrial to minimize the poor workmanship of the finishing quality.</p><!--/ Abstract__block --><h3>Practical implications</h3><p>This study is very interesting for finishing denim garments. The shrinkage is very important for correcting measures in sewing, considering that a high shrinkage may cause the cancellation of the fit from the client. This type of defect cannot be repaired in the major part of the cases and causes a big loss for the company, mo
目的 这项工作的目的是研究织物机械性能(如撕裂强度 (TS)、断裂强度 (BS) 和织物尺寸稳定性 (Sh) 之间的关系,特别是在工业洗涤(石洗、酶洗、混合洗涤和漂洗)之后。因此,我们使用主成分分析(PCA)技术选出了相互关系最密切的部分。在本研究中,洗涤过程中的服装整理处理是影响布料尺寸和织物机械性能的重要参数。为了改进所获得的结果,还分析了所选重要输入参数对缩水率的影响。与牛仔面料的撕裂强度和缩水率相关的多项式回归模型证明了 PCA 方法的有效性和所获得的结论。这些面料的不同之处不仅在于它们的基本重量(中厚重面料),还在于它们的成分(含氨纶和不含氨纶)和线数(经纱和纬纱支数、捻度和密度)。为了评估重要的结果,在实验设计的基础上进行了因子设计分析。这些处理方法的选择以及它们的设计模式,促使我们进行了一次完整的因子实验设计。因此,我们还得出结论,通过这些输入参数,我们可以找到收缩率(Swarp 和 Shweft)与撕裂强度(TSwarp 和 TSweft)和断裂强度(BSwarp 和 BSweft)等机械性能之间的关系。由于采用了 PCA 方法,减少影响输出参数的数量变得非常容易,而了解了这些重要参数后,在水洗过程中通过了解牛仔服装的缩水率来预测其机械性能似乎就成功了,这无疑可以帮助工业界最大限度地减少后整理质量不佳的情况。考虑到缩水率过高可能会导致客户取消合身性,缩水率对于缝纫中的修正措施非常重要。这种缺陷在大多数情况下无法修复,会给公司造成巨大损失,而且还会影响机械性能。因此,在生产周期开始之前分析收缩率的值,对于正确平衡样板至关重要。作为缩水率函数的牛仔布机械性能行为预测模型使生产商不再进行机械性能测试,这些测试仍然是破坏性测试。此外,根据所获得的结果,可以得出结论:通过缩水测试这一不可避免的测试,预测结果仍然是准确的。原创性/价值 本研究首次提出了机械性能与牛仔服装缩水率之间的预测关系,并应用 PCA 技术最大限度地减少了不重要或相互不相关的所有输出参数。此外,本研究还探讨了织物机械性能(如撕裂强度(TS)、断裂强度(BS)和布料尺寸稳定性(Sh))之间的关系,特别是在工业洗涤(石洗、酶洗、混合洗涤和漂洗)之后。此外,值得一提的是,这项研究的独创性在于为服装洗涤行业节省订单生产时间和质量。
{"title":"The principal component analysis method to study mechanical properties and denim manufactured garment shrinkage","authors":"Faouzi Khedher, Boubaker Jaouachi","doi":"10.1108/ijcst-11-2023-0173","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1108/ijcst-11-2023-0173","url":null,"abstract":"&lt;h3&gt;Purpose&lt;/h3&gt;\u0000&lt;p&gt;The purpose of this work is to study the relationship between the fabric’s mechanical properties such as tear strength (&lt;em&gt;T&lt;/em&gt;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;em&gt;S&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;), breaking strength (&lt;em&gt;B&lt;/em&gt;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;em&gt;S&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;) and cloth’s dimensional stability (&lt;em&gt;Sh&lt;/em&gt;), particularly, after industrial launderings (stone wash, enzyme wash, mixed wash and rinse). Hence, we select the most interrelationships using the principal component analysis (PCA) technique. In this study, the treatments of finishing garments during washing are the important parameters influencing the cloth’s dimensional and the fabric’s mechanical properties. To improve the obtained results, the selected significant inputs are also analyzed within their influence on shrinkage. The polynomial regression model relating the tear strength and the shrinkage of denim fabric proves the effectiveness of the PCA method and the obtained findings.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;!--/ Abstract__block --&gt;\u0000&lt;h3&gt;Design/methodology/approach&lt;/h3&gt;\u0000&lt;p&gt;To investigate the matter, the type of washing, and their contributions to shrinkage, four types of fabrics manufactured into pants were used. These fabrics differ not only by their basis weights (medium and heavy weight fabrics) but, also by their compositions (within and without elastane) and their thread count (warp and weft yarn count, twist and density. To evaluate significant results, a factorial design analysis based on an experimental design was established. The choice of these treatments, as well as their design mode, led us to make a complete factorial experimental design.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;!--/ Abstract__block --&gt;\u0000&lt;h3&gt;Findings&lt;/h3&gt;\u0000&lt;p&gt;According to the results, the prediction of shrinkage behavior as a function of the process washing input parameters seems significant and useful in our experimental design of interest. As a consequence, it was also concluded that after these input parameters, we can find the relationship between the shrinkage (&lt;em&gt;Sh&lt;/em&gt;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;em&gt;warp&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sub&gt; and &lt;em&gt;Sh&lt;/em&gt;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;em&gt;weft&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;) and the mechanical properties such as tear strength (&lt;em&gt;T&lt;/em&gt;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;em&gt;Swarp&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sub&gt; and &lt;em&gt;T&lt;/em&gt;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;em&gt;Sweft&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;) and breaking strength (&lt;em&gt;B&lt;/em&gt;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;em&gt;Swarp&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sub&gt; and &lt;em&gt;B&lt;/em&gt;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;em&gt;Sweft&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;). Thanks to the PCA, it is very easy to reduce the number of the influent output parameters, and knowing these significant parameters, the prediction of mechanical properties knowing the shrinkage of denim garment, during the process of washing seems successful and can undoubtedly help industrial to minimize the poor workmanship of the finishing quality.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;!--/ Abstract__block --&gt;\u0000&lt;h3&gt;Practical implications&lt;/h3&gt;\u0000&lt;p&gt;This study is very interesting for finishing denim garments. The shrinkage is very important for correcting measures in sewing, considering that a high shrinkage may cause the cancellation of the fit from the client. This type of defect cannot be repaired in the major part of the cases and causes a big loss for the company, mo","PeriodicalId":50330,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology","volume":"23 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.2,"publicationDate":"2024-09-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"142189238","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Three-dimensional scanning measurement and characterization of air gap entrapped on air ventilation garments with different fabrics and clothing sizes 三维扫描测量和表征不同面料和服装尺寸的透气服装上夹带的气隙
IF 1.2 4区 工程技术 Q3 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2024-08-27 DOI: 10.1108/ijcst-11-2023-0171
Wanwan Wang, Mengmeng Zhao

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to determine the effect of clothing fabrics, sizes and air ventilation rate on the volume and thickness of the air gap under the air ventilation garments (AVGs).

Design/methodology/approach

The geometric models of the human body and clothing were obtained by using a 3D body scanner. Then the distribution of the volume and thickness of the air gap for four clothing fabrics and three air ventilation rates (0L/S, 12L/S and 20L/S) were calculated by Geomagic software. Finally, a more suitable fabric was selected from the analysis to compare the distribution of the air gap entrapped for four clothing sizes (S, M, L and XL) and the three air ventilation rates.

Findings

The results show that the influence of air ventilation rate on the air gap volume and thickness is more obvious than that of the clothing fabrics and sizes. The higher is the air ventilation rate, the thicker is the air gap entrapped, and more evenly distributed is the air gap. It can be seen that the thickness of the air gap in the chest does not change significantly with the changes of the air ventilation rates, clothing fabrics and sizes, while the air gap in the waist is affected significantly.

Originality/value

This research provides a better understanding of the distribution of the air gap entrapped in ventilated garments, which can help in designing the optimal air gap dimensions and thus provide a basis and a reference for the design of the AVGs.

目的 本文旨在确定服装面料、尺寸和透气率对透气服装(AVGs)下气隙的体积和厚度的影响。然后通过 Geomagic 软件计算出四种服装面料和三种通风率(0L/S、12L/S 和 20L/S)下气隙的体积和厚度分布。结果表明,与服装面料和尺寸相比,换气率对气隙体积和厚度的影响更为明显。透气率越高,夹带的气隙越厚,气隙分布越均匀。可以看出,随着透气率、服装面料和尺寸的变化,胸部气隙的厚度变化不大,而腰部气隙受到的影响较大。 原创性/价值 通过这项研究,可以更好地了解透气服装中夹带气隙的分布情况,有助于设计最佳气隙尺寸,从而为 AVG 的设计提供依据和参考。
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引用次数: 0
Development of a personalized mask design method using three-dimensional scan data 利用三维扫描数据开发个性化面具设计方法
IF 1.2 4区 工程技术 Q3 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2024-08-23 DOI: 10.1108/ijcst-12-2023-0179
Yeonghoon Kang, Gyungin Jung, Sungmin Kim

Purpose

This study aims to develop a novel design method to make personalized masks for the effective prevention of pandemic respiratory infectious disease.

Design/methodology/approach

The changes in facial shape during speaking were analyzed using a three-dimensional (3D) scanning technique. In total, 13 anthropometric items were measured, and mask patterns were generated using a parametric pattern design method. Three sizing methods were proposed to reflect not only static but also dynamic body dimensions on the mask patterns.

Findings

A significant increase or decrease was observed in 10 out of 13 measurement items. Based on this, four items were selected to be used in the mask pattern design. The nose and cheek areas of a mask were fixed to protect the respiratory tract against viruses. The lower jaw area was deformed to improve the fit.

Social implications

This study is expected to provide fundamental data to understand the changes in facial shape during movement. In addition, it is expected that the development of individualized personal protective equipment with movement adaptability will facilitate an effective response to various pandemic respiratory diseases.

Originality/value

In order to develop a personal protective equipment (PPE) that has a good fit and can protect against pandemic respiratory infectious diseases, morphological analysis was attempted using 3D facial data. It would be possible to design various products and equipment to be worn on the face by using the method proposed in this study.

目的 本研究旨在开发一种新颖的设计方法,用于制作个性化口罩,以有效预防大流行性呼吸道传染病。总共测量了 13 个人体测量项目,并使用参数化图案设计方法生成了口罩图案。结果 在 13 个测量项目中,观察到 10 个项目有明显的增减。在此基础上,选择了四个项目用于面具图案设计。口罩的鼻子和脸颊部位是固定的,以保护呼吸道免受病毒感染。社会影响这项研究有望为了解运动过程中面部形状的变化提供基础数据。此外,开发具有运动适应性的个性化个人防护装备有望促进有效应对各种大流行性呼吸道疾病。原创性/价值为了开发一种具有良好贴合性并能抵御大流行性呼吸道传染病的个人防护装备(PPE),我们尝试使用三维面部数据进行形态分析。利用本研究提出的方法,有可能设计出佩戴在面部的各种产品和设备。
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引用次数: 0
The water vapour resistance dynamic measurement of natural and synthetic fibre 天然纤维和合成纤维的水蒸气阻力动态测量
IF 1.2 4区 工程技术 Q3 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2024-08-13 DOI: 10.1108/ijcst-01-2024-0012
Sofien Benltoufa, Hind Algamdy, Adel Ghith, Faten Fayala, Lubos Hes

Purpose

The paper aims to investigate the dynamic measurement of the water vapour resistance. The water vapour diffusion kinetics depends on the fibre’s material. So, water vapour resistance measurement times till the equilibrium steady state can vary in the case of natural fibres compared to synthetic fibres. Devices for determining water vapour resistance according to the ISO 11092 standard allow static values to be measured.

Design/methodology/approach

In this study to investigate the dynamic of the water vapour resistance, a new parameter named “holding period” was introduced and defined as the time from sample placement on the measuring head until the measuring process begins. The holding period was varied as 0, 30, 60, 90, 120, 180, 240 and 300 s. Wool and cotton knitted fabrics were tested as natural fibres and compared to 100% polyester and 90% polyester/10% elastane as synthetic fibres. Measurements were conducted under both air velocities of 1 and 2 m/s. The experimental test data were statistically analysed based on ANOVA and four-in-one residual plots.

Findings

Statistical analysis of experimental tests shows that the holding period affects water vapour resistance in both air velocities of 1 and 2 m/s and on the measured values in the case of hydrophilic fibres.

Research limitations/implications

The study of the dynamic relative water vapour permeability of natural and synthetic is an important area of interest for future research.

Practical implications

It is recommended to hold the samples on the top of the head measurement before starting the test.

Originality/value

Following the ISO 11092 standard, the static values of the water vapour resistance were measured without considering the dynamic behaviour of the water vapour diffusion through the textile fabrics. This paper fulfils an experimental dynamic measurement of the water vapour resistance.

目的 本文旨在研究水蒸气阻力的动态测量。水蒸气扩散动力学取决于纤维的材料。因此,与合成纤维相比,天然纤维直到平衡稳定状态的水蒸气阻力测量时间会有所不同。在本研究中,为了研究水蒸气阻力的动态,引入了一个名为 "保持期 "的新参数,并将其定义为从样品放置在测量头上到测量过程开始的时间。羊毛和棉针织物作为天然纤维进行了测试,并与 100% 聚酯和 90% 聚酯/10% 弹性纤维作为合成纤维进行了比较。测量在 1 米/秒和 2 米/秒两种气速下进行。实验测试数据根据方差分析和四合一残差图进行了统计分析。研究限制/意义研究天然纤维和合成纤维的动态相对水蒸气渗透性是未来研究的一个重要领域。原创性/价值根据 ISO 11092 标准,测量水蒸气阻力的静态值时没有考虑水蒸气在纺织面料中扩散的动态行为。本文对水蒸气阻力进行了实验性动态测量。
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引用次数: 0
Human surface morphology representation and shape subdivision driven by space vector on female “waist-to-thigh” zone 女性 "腰至大腿 "区域空间矢量驱动的人体表面形态表征和形状细分
IF 1.2 4区 工程技术 Q3 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2024-08-06 DOI: 10.1108/ijcst-10-2023-0149
Tao Li, Jing Ma, Jinying Wu, Xiyan Lin, Fengyuan Zou

Purpose

The human body has the same basic size data but has different surface morphology, resulting in the unfitness even under the same size specification. The purpose of this study was to solve the local fitness problems by representing and quantifying the human surface morphological difference.

Design/methodology/approach

Firstly, the 3D point cloud for 323 female students was scanned, and the cross-section layers of the “waist-to-thigh” zone were determined. Secondly, the space vector based on the space Euclidean distance was extracted to represent and quantify the surface morphological difference. And the Principal Component Analysis and K-means were adopted to subdivide the target zone. Thirdly, the pattern based on the subdivision results and surface flattening was generated. Additionally, the fitness was evaluated by the subjective and objective assessments, separately.

Findings

The space vector could represent and quantify the shape morphology of the “waist-to-thigh” zone. It had successfully achieved the human body subdivision and corresponding pattern generation for the “waist-to-thigh” zone. And the pattern based on the shape subdivision and surface flattening of the space vector could effectively improve the wearing fitness. Particularly in the waist and crotch area of trousers, the obvious wrinkles had been solved because the space vector is more in line with the shape morphology characteristics.

Originality/value

The proposed method could represent and quantify the difference in human surface morphology in a 3D manner. It solved the unfitness problem caused by the same body size but different shape surface morphology. And it will contribute to the fitness improvement of the trousers.

目的人体的基本尺寸数据相同,但表面形态各异,即使在相同的尺寸规格下,也会造成不适度。本研究旨在通过表示和量化人体表面形态差异来解决局部体适能问题。设计/方法/途径首先,扫描 323 名女学生的三维点云,确定 "腰到大腿 "区域的横截面层。其次,提取基于空间欧氏距离的空间向量来表示和量化表面形态差异。并采用主成分分析法和 K-均值法对目标区域进行细分。第三,根据细分结果和表面扁平化生成图案。此外,还分别通过主观评价和客观评价对适配性进行了评估。 研究结果该空间矢量可以表示和量化 "腰至大腿 "区域的形状形态。成功实现了 "腰至大腿 "区域的人体细分和相应图案生成。基于形状细分和空间矢量表面扁平化的图案能有效提高穿着舒适度。独创性/价值所提出的方法能够以三维方式表示和量化人体表面形态的差异,解决了 "腰-大腿 "区域的不合身问题。原创性/价值所提出的方法能以三维方式表示和量化人体表面形态的差异,解决了体型相同但形状表面形态不同所导致的不适配问题。这将有助于提高裤子的健身效果。
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引用次数: 0
A novel smart textiles to reflect emotion 反映情感的新型智能纺织品
IF 1.2 4区 工程技术 Q3 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2024-08-06 DOI: 10.1108/ijcst-10-2021-0153
Fangyu Ye, Jingyu Dai, Ling Duan

Purpose

The device, amplifies and sub-regionally transmits the current generated by the body temperature thermoelectric generator through a smart body temperature sensor.

Design/methodology/approach

The present study designs a wearable smart device regarding the relationship between temperature and emotion.

Findings

Experimental results show that the device can accurately detect changes in human body temperature under hilarious, fearful, soothing and angry emotions, so as to achieve changes in clothing colors, namely blue, red, green and brown.

Originality/value

Different areas of clothing produce controllable and intelligent color, so that adult emotions can be understood through changes in clothing colors, which is conducive to judging their moods and promoting social interaction.

目的该装置通过智能体温传感器,对体温热电发生器产生的电流进行放大和分区域传输。设计/方法/途径本研究设计了一种关于体温与情绪关系的可穿戴智能装置。研究结果实验结果表明,该装置能准确检测出人体在热闹、恐惧、舒缓和愤怒等情绪下的体温变化,从而实现服装颜色的变化,即蓝色、红色、绿色和棕色。原创性/价值服装的不同部位会产生可控的智能色彩,从而通过服装颜色的变化了解成年人的情绪,有利于判断其心情,促进社会交往。
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引用次数: 0
期刊
International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology
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