{"title":"Little Black Dress: A Radical Fashion, ed. by Georgina Ripley","authors":"Caroline Ness","doi":"10.3366/cost.2024.0295","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/cost.2024.0295","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":517550,"journal":{"name":"Costume","volume":"13 20","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140285780","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Kimberly Chrisman-Campbell, Skirts: Fashioning Modern Femininity in the Twentieth Century","authors":"E. Ehrman","doi":"10.3366/cost.2024.0294","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/cost.2024.0294","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":517550,"journal":{"name":"Costume","volume":"384 ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140286661","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Isobel (London & Harrogate) Ltd was the second fashion business established by Jewish immigrant Isobel Nathan between 1925 and 1940. Nathan had premises at 223 Regent Street by 1922 and later at 70 Grosvenor Street, London, but she had also established a branch salon and workrooms in 1917 in the fashionable Yorkshire spa town of Harrogate. This under-researched dress house has largely faded into obscurity. During this time, however, the Isobel label signified ‘British-made’ luxury fashion, and, focused on the home markets, Nathan employed over 450 workers nationally. This article examines Nathan's business practice of northern regionalism; that British did not just mean London and its metropolitan clientele. Through examination of unpublished business records alongside both editorial copy and advertising from the period, this article identifies the Harrogate salon as pioneering move to reach a broader clientele, connect to British manufacturers and reduce the seasonality of the fashion trade. This article recognizes Nathan as a notable early British couturier in the inter-war years who leveraged designing and marketing to her northern clientele to successfully service the home market as an ‘All British’ brand.
{"title":"Regional Couture: The Inter-war British Couture Fashion House Isobel (London & Harrogate) Ltd","authors":"Hannah Wroe","doi":"10.3366/cost.2024.0287","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/cost.2024.0287","url":null,"abstract":"Isobel (London & Harrogate) Ltd was the second fashion business established by Jewish immigrant Isobel Nathan between 1925 and 1940. Nathan had premises at 223 Regent Street by 1922 and later at 70 Grosvenor Street, London, but she had also established a branch salon and workrooms in 1917 in the fashionable Yorkshire spa town of Harrogate. This under-researched dress house has largely faded into obscurity. During this time, however, the Isobel label signified ‘British-made’ luxury fashion, and, focused on the home markets, Nathan employed over 450 workers nationally. This article examines Nathan's business practice of northern regionalism; that British did not just mean London and its metropolitan clientele. Through examination of unpublished business records alongside both editorial copy and advertising from the period, this article identifies the Harrogate salon as pioneering move to reach a broader clientele, connect to British manufacturers and reduce the seasonality of the fashion trade. This article recognizes Nathan as a notable early British couturier in the inter-war years who leveraged designing and marketing to her northern clientele to successfully service the home market as an ‘All British’ brand.","PeriodicalId":517550,"journal":{"name":"Costume","volume":"223 12","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140403003","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Kate Strasdin, The Dress Diary of Mrs Anne Sykes: Secrets from a Victorian Woman's Wardrobe","authors":"A. Guennec","doi":"10.3366/cost.2024.0292","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/cost.2024.0292","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":517550,"journal":{"name":"Costume","volume":"45 3","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140407559","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
During the First World War, 1914–1918, the British Army uniform provided an important tool in the transition from civilian to soldier and a symbol of a mass collective identity. However, soldier writings from the war and post-war years reveal the more individual experiences of their uniforms and the intimate relationships that formed between their physicality and the materiality of the garment. Focusing on the uniform experiences of British servicemen during the First World War, this article explores the narratives recorded in soldier correspondence, diaries and life writing to discover how men, despite wearing military uniform, continued to express the sartorial identities and practices developed as civilians. The uniform was central to soldiers’ physicality and their writings show that the materiality of the uniform became a conduit for their sensory and haptic experiences of the landscape around them. Yet the uniform remained only a temporary sartorial shift and, underneath, civilian identities and sensibilities remained resolute. Evidence of sartorial interventions and personalization expose the attempts to ameliorate the fit and feel of the uniform. Shining a light on these narratives of the uniform on a more personal and affective level challenges us to reconsider the boundaries between uniformity and individuality.
{"title":"Wear and Tear: Life Stories and Sartorial Experiences in the First World War","authors":"Rachel Neal","doi":"10.3366/cost.2024.0286","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/cost.2024.0286","url":null,"abstract":"During the First World War, 1914–1918, the British Army uniform provided an important tool in the transition from civilian to soldier and a symbol of a mass collective identity. However, soldier writings from the war and post-war years reveal the more individual experiences of their uniforms and the intimate relationships that formed between their physicality and the materiality of the garment. Focusing on the uniform experiences of British servicemen during the First World War, this article explores the narratives recorded in soldier correspondence, diaries and life writing to discover how men, despite wearing military uniform, continued to express the sartorial identities and practices developed as civilians. The uniform was central to soldiers’ physicality and their writings show that the materiality of the uniform became a conduit for their sensory and haptic experiences of the landscape around them. Yet the uniform remained only a temporary sartorial shift and, underneath, civilian identities and sensibilities remained resolute. Evidence of sartorial interventions and personalization expose the attempts to ameliorate the fit and feel of the uniform. Shining a light on these narratives of the uniform on a more personal and affective level challenges us to reconsider the boundaries between uniformity and individuality.","PeriodicalId":517550,"journal":{"name":"Costume","volume":"98 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140405745","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Sanda Miller, Images on the Page: A Fashion Iconography","authors":"Hannah Rumball","doi":"10.3366/cost.2024.0298","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/cost.2024.0298","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":517550,"journal":{"name":"Costume","volume":"84 3","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140401365","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Selective List of Recent Articles from Periodicals","authors":"Hilary Davidson","doi":"10.3366/cost.2020.0146","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/cost.2020.0146","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":517550,"journal":{"name":"Costume","volume":"4 12","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2020-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141227791","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
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