{"title":"Reflections on establishing and editing a journal","authors":"E. Tseëlon","doi":"10.1386/csfb_00006_7","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/csfb_00006_7","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":53799,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2020-06-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45978998","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Although the origins of ugg boots are distinctly Australian, the ugg story has evolved through a number of different threads that shape our perceptions of the humble sheepskin boot. There is an international media narrative of ugg boots that, although rooted in Australian surf culture, shifts its focus to the world of celebrity culture and more recently, fashion institutions such as Parisian runways. In Australia, the media discourse on the ugg boot follows a very different trajectory; this narrative is concerned with agricultural practices, sporting activities and social etiquette that connect with the Australian landscape and a sense of national identity. This study traces the recent histories of ugg boots to explore the themes and tensions between differing constructions of this object through place, space and time.
{"title":"Understanding ugg boots: Travels through place, space and time","authors":"R. Matthews","doi":"10.1386/csfb_00010_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/csfb_00010_1","url":null,"abstract":"Although the origins of ugg boots are distinctly Australian, the ugg story has evolved through a number of different threads that shape our perceptions of the humble sheepskin boot. There is an international media narrative of ugg boots that, although rooted in Australian surf culture,\u0000 shifts its focus to the world of celebrity culture and more recently, fashion institutions such as Parisian runways. In Australia, the media discourse on the ugg boot follows a very different trajectory; this narrative is concerned with agricultural practices, sporting activities and social\u0000 etiquette that connect with the Australian landscape and a sense of national identity. This study traces the recent histories of ugg boots to explore the themes and tensions between differing constructions of this object through place, space and time.","PeriodicalId":53799,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2020-06-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42335644","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Belgian designer Walter Van Beirendonck is internationally known for his original and critical approach to menswear, using fashion as an arena to discuss social and political issues. This ‘Antwerp Six’ member, however, still seems to be under-represented in fashion studies scholarship. Therefore, this article aims to offer an investigation of Van Beirendonck’s sartorial practices through an analysis of his queer approach to tailoring. Consequently, the article focuses on the historical and material meanings of the suit in the making of normative and hegemonic masculinity, and how the designer has been capable of opening up a material critical discussion of these meanings through the queering of the suit’s design, surface and styling. Beyond being the first academic investigation on Walter Van Beirendonck’s tailoring, the article aims to contribute to broadening the knowledge on Belgian fashion, particularly the Antwerp fashion scene and its ways of dealing with the concepts of fashion, body and gender identity.
比利时设计师Walter Van Beirendonck以其独创的、批判性的男装风格而闻名于世，他将时尚作为讨论社会和政治问题的舞台。然而，这位“安特卫普六人组”成员在时尚研究奖学金中的代表性似乎仍然不足。因此，本文旨在通过对范·贝伦敦克怪异的剪裁方法的分析，来考察他的服装实践。因此，本文着重探讨了西装在塑造规范和霸权男性气质方面的历史意义和物质意义，以及设计师如何能够通过西装的设计、表面和造型来开启对这些意义的物质批判讨论。这篇文章不仅是对Walter Van Beirendonck剪裁的首次学术调查，还旨在拓宽对比利时时尚的了解，特别是安特卫普时尚界及其处理时尚、身体和性别认同概念的方法。
{"title":"Queer(ing) tailoring: Walter Van Beirendonck and the glorious bastardization of the suit","authors":"Nicola Brajato","doi":"10.1386/csfb_00009_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/csfb_00009_1","url":null,"abstract":"Belgian designer Walter Van Beirendonck is internationally known for his original and critical approach to menswear, using fashion as an arena to discuss social and political issues. This ‘Antwerp Six’ member, however, still seems to be under-represented in fashion studies\u0000 scholarship. Therefore, this article aims to offer an investigation of Van Beirendonck’s sartorial practices through an analysis of his queer approach to tailoring. Consequently, the article focuses on the historical and material meanings of the suit in the making of normative and hegemonic\u0000 masculinity, and how the designer has been capable of opening up a material critical discussion of these meanings through the queering of the suit’s design, surface and styling. Beyond being the first academic investigation on Walter Van Beirendonck’s tailoring, the article aims\u0000 to contribute to broadening the knowledge on Belgian fashion, particularly the Antwerp fashion scene and its ways of dealing with the concepts of fashion, body and gender identity.","PeriodicalId":53799,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2020-06-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42448092","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
This article explores the relationship between the cloth Harris Tweed and the cycling event, the Tweed Run. It focuses on extrapolating stories as lived and told of those participating in the event, to examine how material objects can lend agency to a fashionable cycling experience. Narrative inquiry methodology is used to explore how a subject emotionally connects with their personal possessions as revealed through storytelling. The aim is to create a new sense of meaning and significance within the research topic, rather than focusing on establishing a grand narrative. It brings specific understandings to how objects can be related to and used by individuals to become symbolic and aesthetic ‘thirds’. This study posits that it is the participatory collective nature and transformative space of events such as the Tweed Run that provide an opportunity for individuals to interact with their material objects, in a manner that supports their transformation to symbolic or aesthetic thirds and initiates satisfactory (life) stories that can advance living action.
{"title":"The Tweed Run meets Harris Tweed: Stories of a fashionable cycling experience","authors":"C. Glover","doi":"10.1386/csfb_00008_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/csfb_00008_1","url":null,"abstract":"This article explores the relationship between the cloth Harris Tweed and the cycling event, the Tweed Run. It focuses on extrapolating stories as lived and told of those participating in the event, to examine how material objects can lend agency to a fashionable cycling experience.\u0000 Narrative inquiry methodology is used to explore how a subject emotionally connects with their personal possessions as revealed through storytelling. The aim is to create a new sense of meaning and significance within the research topic, rather than focusing on establishing a grand narrative.\u0000 It brings specific understandings to how objects can be related to and used by individuals to become symbolic and aesthetic ‘thirds’. This study posits that it is the participatory collective nature and transformative space of events such as the Tweed Run that provide an opportunity\u0000 for individuals to interact with their material objects, in a manner that supports their transformation to symbolic or aesthetic thirds and initiates satisfactory (life) stories that can advance living action.","PeriodicalId":53799,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2020-06-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"46859481","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Converging practices: Fashion exhibits across museums and social media","authors":"H. Jenss","doi":"10.1386/CSFB.10.1.31_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/CSFB.10.1.31_1","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":53799,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2019-06-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"47856650","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Navigating fashion: On the role of digital fashion archives in the preservation, classification and dissemination of fashion heritage","authors":"M. Franceschini","doi":"10.1386/CSFB.10.1.69_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/CSFB.10.1.69_1","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":53799,"journal":{"name":"Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2019-06-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43432081","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
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