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First survey of metallic distribution in zooplankton from a south Moroccan area 摩洛哥南部地区浮游动物金属分布的首次调查
IF 2.9 3区 地球科学 Q2 OCEANOGRAPHY Pub Date : 2023-10-01 DOI: 10.1016/j.oceano.2023.06.009
Fatima Zohra Bouthir , Imane Afandi , Sophia Talba , Maylis Labonne , Hicham Masski , Mathieu Waeles , Raymond Lae

The Moroccan Southern Atlantic coast is mainly influenced by upwelling, Saharan dust and anthropogenic micropollutant input. These factors contribute to increasing the availability of metal elements in waters. To differentiate human impact from natural variability, knowledge of background concentrations of metals and their fluctuations in bioindicator organisms such as zooplankton is important. This work aims to determine the levels of metals elements (Zn, Mn, Pb, Cu, Cd, Cr, Co, Ni, Li, As, Sr, U, Fe and Ba) in zooplankton along the southern area of the Atlantic coast of Morocco. Zooplankton samples were collected in the summer (July 2013) and autumn (December 2013) at 27 stations from Sidi Ifni to the south of Dakhla. All stations were located on transects perpendicular to the coast. The analysis of metal elements in zooplankton was determined by ICP–MS. The results revealed that in all transects, metal concentrations were below the regulatory limits. Metal enrichments were observed in the south and decreased gradually to the north. This study can be used as baseline data for the metal contents of zooplankton in Moroccan South Atlantic coastal water. A comparison to worldwide reported data on zooplankton did not reveal any suggestions on increased metal presence in the area investigated.

摩洛哥南大西洋海岸主要受上升流、撒哈拉沙尘和人为微污染物输入的影响。这些因素有助于增加水中金属元素的可用性。为了区分人为影响和自然变化,了解金属的背景浓度及其在浮游动物等生物指示生物中的波动是很重要的。本研究旨在测定摩洛哥大西洋沿岸南部地区浮游动物中金属元素(Zn、Mn、Pb、Cu、Cd、Cr、Co、Ni、Li、As、Sr、U、Fe和Ba)的含量。夏季(2013年7月)和秋季(2013年12月)在Sidi Ifni至Dakhla以南的27个站点采集了浮游动物样本。所有监测站都位于与海岸垂直的横断面上。采用ICP-MS法测定浮游动物中金属元素的含量。结果表明,所有样带的金属浓度均低于规定限值。在南部观察到金属富集,向北逐渐减少。本研究可作为摩洛哥南大西洋沿岸浮游动物金属含量的基线数据。与世界范围内报道的浮游动物数据进行比较,并没有发现任何迹象表明被调查地区的金属含量有所增加。
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引用次数: 0
Stripe segmentation of oceanic internal waves in SAR images based on Gabor transform and K-means clustering 基于Gabor变换和K-means聚类的SAR图像海洋内波条纹分割
IF 2.9 3区 地球科学 Q2 OCEANOGRAPHY Pub Date : 2023-10-01 DOI: 10.1016/j.oceano.2023.06.006
Kai-Tuo Qi , Hong-Sheng Zhang , Ying-Gang Zheng , Yu Zhang , Long-Yu Ding

Oceanic internal waves are an active ocean phenomenon that can be observed, and their relevant characteristics can be acquired using synthetic aperture radar (SAR). The locations of oceanic internal waves must be determined first to obtain the important parameters of oceanic internal waves from SAR images. An oceanic internal wave segmentation method with integrated light and dark stripes was described in this study. To extract the SAR image characteristics of oceanic internal waves, the Gabor transform was initially used, and then the K-means clustering algorithm was used to separate the light (dark) stripes of oceanic internal waves from the background in the SAR images. The regions of the dark (light) stripes were automatically determined based on the differences between the three classes, that is, the dark stripes, light stripes, and background area. Finally, the locations of the dark (light) stripes were determined by shifting a given distance along the normal direction of the long side with the minimum bounding rectangle of the light (dark) stripes. The best segmentation results were obtained based on the intersection over the union of the images, and the accuracy of segmentation was verified. Furthermore, the effectiveness and practicability of the proposed method in the light and dark stripe segmentation of SAR images of oceanic internal waves were illustrated. The proposed method prepares the foundation for future inversion studies of oceanic internal waves.

海洋内波是一种可以观测到的活跃海洋现象,利用合成孔径雷达(SAR)可以获取其相关特征。要从SAR图像中获得海洋内波的重要参数,必须首先确定海洋内波的位置。提出了一种基于明暗条纹的海洋内波分割方法。为了提取海洋内波的SAR图像特征,首先使用Gabor变换,然后使用K-means聚类算法将海洋内波的亮(暗)条纹从SAR图像的背景中分离出来。暗(亮)条纹的区域是根据三个类别的差异自动确定的,即暗条纹、亮条纹和背景区域。最后,利用光(暗)条纹的最小边界矩形沿长边的法线方向移动给定的距离来确定暗(光)条纹的位置。基于图像的交会并得到了最佳分割结果,并验证了分割的准确性。进一步验证了该方法在海洋内波SAR图像明暗条纹分割中的有效性和实用性。该方法为今后的海洋内波反演研究奠定了基础。
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引用次数: 0
The influence of biochemical parameters on primary production in the Gulf of Gdańsk region: A model study 生化参数对Gdańsk海湾地区初级生产影响的模型研究
IF 2.9 3区 地球科学 Q2 OCEANOGRAPHY Pub Date : 2023-10-01 DOI: 10.1016/j.oceano.2023.05.001
Maciej Janecki, Dawid Dybowski, Lidia Dzierzbicka-Głowacka

Understanding the changing levels of biochemical parameters and the factors that influence them throughout the seasons is crucial for comprehending the dynamics of marine ecosystems. It also helps us identify potential threats that could harm their condition, aiding decision-making processes related to their protection. This study focuses on examining the variations in nutrients (such as nitrates, phosphates, and silicates), dissolved oxygen, and phytoplankton within the Gulf of Gdańsk. Additionally, we analyze the primary production process at three representative locations. To achieve this, we used data from the EcoFish biochemical numerical model. To ensure the model's accuracy, we compared its results with in situ data from the ICES database. The comparison revealed high correlations and minimal errors. Furthermore, we investigated how limiting factors impact primary phytoplankton production and demonstrated how the intensity of spring diatom blooms influences the nature of cyanobacterial blooms in the summer.

了解生物化学参数的变化水平及其在整个季节中的影响因素对于理解海洋生态系统的动态至关重要。它还可以帮助我们识别可能损害它们状况的潜在威胁,帮助制定与保护它们有关的决策过程。本研究的重点是研究Gdańsk海湾内营养物质(如硝酸盐、磷酸盐和硅酸盐)、溶解氧和浮游植物的变化。此外,我们分析了三个代表性地点的初级生产过程。为了实现这一点,我们使用了EcoFish生化数值模型的数据。为了确保模型的准确性,我们将其结果与ICES数据库中的原位数据进行了比较。比较显示出高度的相关性和最小的误差。此外,我们还研究了限制因素如何影响初级浮游植物的生产,并论证了春季硅藻华的强度如何影响夏季蓝藻华的性质。
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引用次数: 0
Excitation of an extreme wave by standing current 常流对极值波的激发
IF 2.9 3区 地球科学 Q2 OCEANOGRAPHY Pub Date : 2023-10-01 DOI: 10.1016/j.oceano.2023.06.005
Pavlo Anakhov

The statistics suggest that extreme waves cause more damage in shallow waters and at the coast than in the deep sea. In the linear theory of the formation of extreme waves, their existence is interpreted as a local superposition of surface monochromatic waves. The event of excitation of extreme waves can be understood as an increase in natural oscillations of the water basin. The conditions for the excitation and sustaining of natural oscillations are the proximity of the periods of exciting traveling waves to the period of traveling waves and the speed of movement of the exciting current to the phase speed of propagation of traveling waves of the reservoir. Examples of stimulating natural oscillations are presented. We determined the range of expected periods of natural oscillations, which range from 30 seconds to 24 hours. Synchronously and in common-mode with the oscillations of standing waves between their antinodes, a "standing" current occurs with a measured speed of up to 11 km/h. We presented a hypothesis about the possibility of stimulating natural oscillations of water bodies by a standing current, which changes its direction due to the movement of the water surface from the trough of the wave to its crest, and back. A model of stimulating oscillations by the waves with a constant period and currents with constant and variable speeds has been developed.

统计数据表明,极端海浪对浅水和海岸造成的破坏比深海更大。在极值波形成的线性理论中,极值波的存在被解释为表面单色波的局部叠加。极值波的激发事件可以理解为盆地自然振荡的增加。激发和维持自然振荡的条件是激励行波的周期与行波的周期接近,激励电流的运动速度与水库行波传播的相速度接近。给出了刺激自然振荡的实例。我们确定了自然振荡的预期周期范围,范围从30秒到24小时。与驻点之间的驻波同步共模振荡,“驻波”电流以高达11公里/小时的测量速度发生。我们提出了一种假设,即通过驻流刺激水体自然振荡的可能性,驻流由于水面从波谷到波峰再返回的运动而改变其方向。提出了一种由恒周期波浪和恒速和变速流刺激振荡的模型。
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引用次数: 0
Dinoflagellate cysts and benthic foraminifera from surface sediments of Svalbard fjords and shelves as paleoenvironmental indicators 斯瓦尔巴峡湾和大陆架表层沉积物中的甲藻囊肿和底栖有孔虫作为古环境指标
IF 2.9 3区 地球科学 Q2 OCEANOGRAPHY Pub Date : 2023-10-01 DOI: 10.1016/j.oceano.2023.06.007
Maciej M. Telesiński , Vera Pospelova , Kenneth Neil Mertens , Małgorzata Kucharska , Marek Zajączkowski

Due to the Arctic amplification effect, the Svalbard archipelago is an important area for studying ongoing environmental changes. However, its marine ecosystem is extremely complex. In this study, we analyze modern assemblages of dinoflagellate cysts (dinocysts) and benthic foraminifera from surface sediment samples around Svalbard. We use multivariate statistical analyses to examine relationships between environmental conditions (summer and winter sea surface temperature and salinity, sea-ice cover, etc.) and both microfossil groups to evaluate their use as proxies for reconstructions of the marine environment in the region. Our results show that the most important factor controlling the environment around Svalbard is the Atlantic Water which mostly impacts the western coast, but its influence reaches as far as the eastern coast of Nordaustlandet. However, on a local scale, such factors as the sea-ice cover, the presence of tidewater glaciers, or even the morphology and hydrology of fjords become increasingly important. We found that two dinocyst species, cysts of Polarella glacialis and Echinidinium karaense, can be considered regional winter drift ice indicators. The relationships between environmental parameters and benthic foraminiferal assemblages are much more difficult to interpret. Although statistical analysis shows a correlation of benthic foraminiferal species with various environmental parameters, this correlation might be somewhat coincidental and caused by other factors not analyzed in this study. Nevertheless, the use of two complementary microfossil groups as (paleo)environmental indicators can provide a more comprehensive picture of the environmental conditions.

由于北极的放大效应,斯瓦尔巴群岛是研究持续环境变化的重要区域。然而,它的海洋生态系统极其复杂。在这项研究中,我们分析了来自斯瓦尔巴群岛表层沉积物样本的鞭毛藻囊和底栖有孔虫的现代组合。我们使用多元统计分析来检查环境条件(夏季和冬季海面温度和盐度,海冰覆盖等)和两个微化石组之间的关系,以评估它们作为该地区海洋环境重建的代理的用途。我们的研究结果表明,控制斯瓦尔巴群岛周围环境的最重要因素是大西洋水,它主要影响西海岸,但它的影响远至nordastlanddet的东海岸。然而,在局部尺度上,诸如海冰覆盖、潮汐冰川的存在,甚至峡湾的形态和水文等因素变得越来越重要。我们发现Polarella glacialis和Echinidinium karaense两种囊泡可以作为区域冬季漂冰的指标。环境参数与底栖有孔虫组合之间的关系更难解释。虽然统计分析显示底栖有孔虫种类与各种环境参数有相关性,但这种相关性可能是巧合的,可能是由本研究未分析的其他因素引起的。然而,使用两个互补的微化石群作为(古)环境指标可以提供更全面的环境状况。
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引用次数: 0
Assessment of human interventions presence and their impact on shoreline changes along Nile delta, Egypt 人类干预存在及其对埃及尼罗河三角洲海岸线变化影响的评估
IF 2.9 3区 地球科学 Q2 OCEANOGRAPHY Pub Date : 2023-10-01 DOI: 10.1016/j.oceano.2023.06.008
May R. ElKotby , Tharwat A. Sarhan , Mahmoud El-Gamal

Coastal erosion is a natural process, that contributed to shaping the Nile Delta shoreline in Egypt over history. The objective of this research is to investigate shoreline changes, accretion, and erosion and to detect particularly vulnerable locations that require immediate attention. Another goal is to assess the efficiency of coastal installations that have been recently implemented along the study area and determine whether they have performed their role to the fullest or need additional modifications. Several Landsat images (TM, ETM+, and OLI) were utilized over 37 years to track the shoreline changes and were analysed using remote sensing (RS) and Geographic Information System (GIS). The digital shoreline analysis system (DSAS) was integrated with the LRR model for assessing historical changes for shorelines from 1985 to 2022 and forecasting future shoreline positions in 2030, 2050, and 2100. Most of the eight zones that make up the Delta region have lately seen the establishment of coastal projects, such as the development of the Abu Qir port's breakwater in 2021. From the results, it was found that the areas around Rosetta promontory, Burullus headland, and Damietta promontory experienced a significant and rapid retreat and with large rates over the study period, with average values of –15.7, –3.25, and –16.8 m/y, respectively. However, both the coast of Alexandria, and Gamasa embayment were subjected to accretion as a prevailing case, with average rates of 2.85, and 4.03 m/y, respectively. Many groins were installed in the east of the Rosetta promontory (zone 3) in 2016 to decrease the erosion process; however, it didn't pay off and could not solve the problem. In contrast, the groins system, which was implemented at the East Kitchener Drain (zone 5) in the same year, lowered erosion rates from 17.6 m/y from 2000 to 2010 to 7 m/y from 2010 to 2022. In 2019, Y-groins built in zone 7, east of Damietta Port, succeeded in slowing rates of erosion. Finally, inlet jetties at El-Gamil (zone 8) were constructed in 2016, resulting in the coastline advancing at 14.7 m/y on average in the period of 2010–2022. The findings of this study confirmed that hard structures are dangerous because they exacerbate the problem of shoreline erosion by disseminating it to the neighbouring beaches and acting as an impediment to the movement of longshore sediments. According to the expected future shoreline patterns, it is necessary for authorities to implement both short-term and long-term protective measures to stop the erosion of several areas of the beach.

海岸侵蚀是一个自然过程,在历史上塑造了埃及尼罗河三角洲的海岸线。这项研究的目的是调查海岸线的变化、增生和侵蚀,并发现需要立即关注的特别脆弱的地方。另一个目标是评估最近沿着研究区域实施的沿海设施的效率,并确定它们是否已充分发挥其作用或需要进一步修改。利用TM、ETM+和OLI等多幅陆地卫星影像对37年来的海岸线变化进行了跟踪,并利用遥感(RS)和地理信息系统(GIS)进行了分析。将数字海岸线分析系统(DSAS)与LRR模型相结合,用于评估1985 - 2022年海岸线的历史变化,并预测2030、2050和2100年未来海岸线的位置。组成三角洲地区的8个区域中,大多数地区最近都建立了沿海项目,例如2021年阿布基尔港防波堤的开发。结果表明,在研究期间,Rosetta海岬、Burullus海岬和Damietta海岬周边地区退缩明显、速度快、速率大,平均退缩量分别为-15.7、-3.25和-16.8 m/y。然而,亚历山德里亚海岸和加马萨海岸都受到吸积的影响,平均速度分别为2.85米/年和4.03米/年。2016年,在Rosetta海岬东部(第3区)安装了许多沟槽,以减少侵蚀过程;然而,它没有得到回报,也不能解决问题。相比之下,同年在East Kitchener Drain(第5区)实施的沟槽系统将侵蚀率从2000年至2010年的17.6米/年降低到2010年至2022年的7米/年。2019年,在达米埃塔港以东的第7区建造的y型腹股沟成功地减缓了侵蚀速度。最后,El-Gamil(8区)的进水口码头于2016年建成,导致海岸线在2010-2022年期间平均以14.7米/年的速度推进。这项研究的结果证实,硬结构是危险的,因为它们将海岸线侵蚀扩散到邻近的海滩,从而加剧了海岸线侵蚀问题,并阻碍了海岸沉积物的移动。根据预期的未来海岸线模式,当局有必要实施短期和长期的保护措施,以阻止海滩的几个地区的侵蚀。
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引用次数: 0
Modified logarithmic distribution of wind-driven flow velocity in remote foreshore of the non-tidal sea 非潮海远滨风致流速的修正对数分布
IF 2.9 3区 地球科学 Q2 OCEANOGRAPHY Pub Date : 2023-10-01 DOI: 10.1016/j.oceano.2023.06.003
Rafał Ostrowski, Magdalena Stella-Bogusz

The paper presents the results of the novel modelling of the wind-driven current in the southern Baltic Sea. The steady current is accompanied by wave-induced orbital velocities. The bed boundary layer related to wave-induced oscillatory flow gives rise to the appearance of additional shear stresses affecting the wind-driven current. This impact included in the wind-driven current model yields a modified logarithmic velocity distribution. Theoretical velocity profiles are compared with the field data. The measurement database includes wind, wave and current parameters. The velocities and directions of the wind were collected from the anemometer installed at the Coastal Research Station (CRS) in Lubiatowo. Wave-current parameters at a depth of about 17 m were obtained from a location of approx. 1.5 Nm from the shoreline in the vicinity of CRS Lubiatowo. The study site hydrodynamics is typical of the south Baltic coast. The analysis shows good agreement between the measured flow velocities and the theoretical vertical distributions in the form of the modified logarithmic profile.

本文介绍了波罗的海南部风动流的新模型的结果。稳定的电流伴随着波动引起的轨道速度。与波动引起的振荡流有关的床层边界层引起影响风驱动流的附加剪应力的出现。这种影响包括在风力驱动的电流模型中,产生了一个修正的对数速度分布。将理论速度剖面与现场数据进行了比较。测量数据库包括风、浪、流参数。风速和风向由安装在Lubiatowo海岸研究站(CRS)的风速计收集。在深度约为17 m的波流参数,从大约的位置。距离CRS Lubiatowo附近海岸线1.5海里。研究地点的水动力学是典型的南波罗的海海岸。分析表明,实测流速与修正对数剖面形式的理论垂直分布吻合良好。
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引用次数: 0
Effects of Eulerian current, Stokes drift and wind while simulating surface drifter trajectories in the Baltic Sea 欧拉流、斯托克斯漂移和风对波罗的海海面漂浮物轨迹模拟的影响
IF 2.9 3区 地球科学 Q2 OCEANOGRAPHY Pub Date : 2023-07-01 DOI: 10.1016/j.oceano.2023.02.001
Ove Pärn , Lina Davulienė , Diego Macias Moy , Kaimo Vahter , Adolf Stips , Tomas Torsvik

The simulation of Lagrangian drift is an important task in applications such as dispersion of pollutants, larvae and search and rescue activities. In this study, the Eulerian current, Stokes drift and wind effect on the simulation of observed drifters were analysed. The Lagrangian OceanParcels model was used, and the surface trajectories were assessed by comparison with 9 GPS drifter trajectories in the Gulf of Finland, Gulf of Riga and Lithuanian coast. The Normalised Cumulative Lagrangian Separation (NCLS) distance between the simulated and the satellite-tracked drifter trajectories, and the mean absolute error (MAE) were used as comparison metrics. The present study suggests the need to consider the Stokes drift and the wind factor in addition to the modelled Eulerian currents to obtain a better description of the trajectories of particles. By making these considerations, the OceanParcels model could adequately simulate particle trajectories in the sub-basins within the Baltic Sea. The realized model tests showed that motion of surface drifters are strongly controlled by the Stokes drift when the significant wave height is >1 m, whereas the wind component and the Eulerian currents are crucial when the significant wave height is <0.6 m or the wave (Stokes drift) directions do not match the wind direction.

拉格朗日漂移的模拟是污染物扩散、幼虫扩散和搜救等领域的重要研究课题。本文分析了欧拉流、斯托克斯漂移和风对观测漂子模拟的影响。采用拉格朗日海洋包裹模式,与芬兰湾、里加湾和立陶宛海岸的9条GPS漂移轨迹进行对比,评估了海面轨迹。采用模拟漂移轨迹与卫星跟踪漂移轨迹之间的归一化累积拉格朗日分离(NCLS)距离和平均绝对误差(MAE)作为比较指标。目前的研究表明,除了欧拉流模型之外,还需要考虑斯托克斯漂移和风的因素,以便更好地描述粒子的运动轨迹。通过考虑这些因素,oceanpackages模型可以充分模拟波罗的海子盆地中的粒子轨迹。已实现的模型试验表明,当有效波高为1 m时,地表漂浮物的运动受Stokes漂移的强烈控制,而当有效波高为0.6 m或波浪(Stokes漂移)方向与风向不匹配时,风分量和欧拉流至关重要。
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引用次数: 2
Variations of temperature, salinity and oxygen of the Baltic Sea for the period 1950 to 2020 1950年至2020年波罗的海温度、盐度和氧气的变化
IF 2.9 3区 地球科学 Q2 OCEANOGRAPHY Pub Date : 2023-07-01 DOI: 10.1016/j.oceano.2023.02.002
Vera Stockmayer, Andreas Lehmann

Variations of temperature, salinity and oxygen of the Baltic Sea on interannual to decadal timescales were studied for the period from 1950 to 2020. Both observational data and the output of a numerical circulation model of the Baltic Sea were analyzed. In addition, we investigated the influence of atmospheric parameters and river runoff on the observed hydrographic variations. Variability of sea surface temperature (SST) closely follows that of air temperature in the Baltic on all timescales examined. Interannual variations of SST are significantly correlated with the North Atlantic Oscillation in most parts of the sea in winter. The entire water column of the Baltic Sea has warmed over the period 1950 to 2020. The trend is strongest in the surface layer, which has warmed by 0.3–0.4°C decade−1, noticeably stronger since the mid-1980s. In the remaining water column, characterized by permanent salinity stratification in the Baltic Sea, warming trends are slightly weaker. A decadal variability is striking in surface salinity, which is highly correlated with river runoff into the Baltic Sea. Long-term trends over the period 1950–2020 show a noticeable freshening of the upper layer in the whole Baltic Sea and a significant salinity increase below the halocline in some regions. A decadal variability was also identified in the deep layer of the Baltic Sea. This can be associated with variations in saltwater import from the North Sea, which in turn are influenced by river runoff: fewer strong saltwater inflows were observed in periods of enhanced river runoff. Furthermore, our results suggest that changes in wind speed have an impact on water exchange with the North Sea. Interannual variations of surface oxygen are strongly anti-correlated with those of SST. Likewise, the positive SST trends are accompanied by a decrease in surface oxygen. In greater depths of the Baltic Sea, oxygen decrease is stronger, which is partly related to the observed increase of the vertical salinity gradient.

研究了1950 ~ 2020年波罗的海温度、盐度和氧在年际和年代际尺度上的变化。对观测资料和波罗的海数值环流模式的输出结果进行了分析。此外,我们还研究了大气参数和河流径流对观测到的水文变化的影响。在所有时间尺度上,波罗的海海表温度(SST)的变化与空气温度的变化密切相关。冬季大部分海域的海温年际变化与北大西洋涛动有显著相关。从1950年到2020年,波罗的海的整个水柱都变暖了。这一趋势在表层最为强烈,在10 -1年期间升温了0.3-0.4°C,自20世纪80年代中期以来明显增强。在波罗的海以永久盐度分层为特征的其余水柱中,变暖趋势略弱。地表盐度的年代际变化是显著的,它与流入波罗的海的河流径流高度相关。1950-2020年期间的长期趋势表明,整个波罗的海上层明显变新鲜,一些地区盐跃层以下的盐度显著增加。在波罗的海的深层也发现了年代际变化。这可能与北海咸水进口的变化有关,而后者又受到河流径流的影响:在河流径流增加的时期,观察到的强咸水流入较少。此外,我们的研究结果表明,风速的变化对与北海的水交换有影响。地表氧年际变化与海温年际变化呈强烈的反相关关系。同样,海温正趋势也伴随着地表氧的减少。在波罗的海较深的深度,氧的减少更强,这部分与观测到的垂直盐度梯度的增加有关。
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引用次数: 2
Remotely induced storm effects on the coastal flooding along the southwest coast of India 远程引发的风暴对印度西南海岸沿海洪水的影响
IF 2.9 3区 地球科学 Q2 OCEANOGRAPHY Pub Date : 2023-07-01 DOI: 10.1016/j.oceano.2023.03.003
P.S. Swathy Krishna , Valliyil Mohammed Aboobacker , Madipally Ramesh , L. Sheela Nair

The southwest coast of India is exposed to long-period swells propagated from the South Indian Ocean during pre- and post-monsoon seasons. Although swells from the Southern Ocean and Atlantic Ocean were identified in the North Indian Ocean, their existence and impact along the southwest coast of India were not well investigated. On 19 March 2019, the Valiyathura-Shangumukham coastal stretch along the southwest coast of India experienced an unexpected coastal inundation without having a prompt forecast/warning, and not induced by a storm/cyclone in its vicinity. The present study investigates the causative forces of this inundation and estimates the wave runup and inundation. The study reveals that an unusual swell system was developed in the Indian-Atlantic-Southern Oceans (IASO) interface during 10–12 March and propagated towards the southwest coast of India. The measured wave spectra off Varkala clearly depicts the presence of long-period swells (Tp>18 s), which dominantly occurred as single-peaked. Wave modelling has been carried out to characterize the wave transformation associated with the “IASO interface swells” along the southern Kerala coast. A wave runup of up to 0.93 m height and a coastal inundation of up to 83 m onshore have been estimated during this event.

在季风前和季风后季节,印度西南海岸暴露在从南印度洋传播的长周期涌浪中。虽然在北印度洋发现了来自南大洋和大西洋的涌浪,但它们的存在及其对印度西南海岸的影响并没有得到很好的调查。2019年3月19日,印度西南海岸valiyathura - shanumukham沿海地区经历了一次意外的沿海淹没,没有及时的预报/警报,也不是由附近的风暴/气旋引起的。本研究探讨了这种淹没的成因,并估计了浪涌和淹没。研究表明,3月10日至12日,印度洋-大西洋-南大洋(IASO)界面形成了一个异常的涌浪系统,并向印度西南海岸传播。在Varkala测量的波浪谱清楚地描述了长周期波浪的存在(Tp> 18s),主要以单峰形式出现。对沿喀拉拉邦南部海岸的“IASO界面涌浪”进行了波浪模拟,以表征与之相关的波浪变换。据估计,在这次事件中,浪高可达0.93米,沿岸淹没可达83米。
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Oceanologia
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