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The Dutch Textile Trade Project and the Development of JHNA’s Digital Art History Capabilities 荷兰纺织品贸易项目与海航数字艺术史能力的发展
Pub Date : 2023-03-01 DOI: 10.5092/jhna.2023.15.1.2
Jennifer E. Henel
What started with a grant from the Gladys Krieble Delmas Foundation to integrate the Dutch Textile Trade Project into the JHNA publishing platform grew into a broader digital art historical project. Strengthened by a grant from the Samuel H. Kress Foundation to redesign and enrich the Dutch Textile Trade Project site while creating additional technical functionality for JHNA, the results benefit not only this textiles-focused issue but also future JHNA authors and readers alike.
从格拉迪斯·克里布尔·德尔马斯基金会(Gladys Krieble Delmas Foundation)的资助开始,将荷兰纺织品贸易项目整合到JHNA出版平台中,后来发展成为一个更广泛的数字艺术历史项目。在Samuel H. Kress基金会的资助下,重新设计并丰富了荷兰纺织品贸易项目网站,同时为JHNA创建了额外的技术功能,结果不仅有利于这个以纺织品为重点的问题,也有利于未来的JHNA作者和读者。
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引用次数: 0
Editors' Greeting 编辑的问候
Pub Date : 2023-03-01 DOI: 10.5092/jhna.2023.15.1.11
H. Chapman, Jacquelyn N. Coutré, Bret L. Rothstein, J. Woodall, A. Kettering
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引用次数: 0
The Fascination with Japanese-Styled Gowns: A Quantitative Perspective on Ready-Made Garments at the Beginning of the Eighteenth Century 对日式礼服的迷恋:18世纪初成衣的定量透视
Pub Date : 2023-03-01 DOI: 10.5092/jhna.2023.15.1.5
Angelina Illes
This essay explores the circulation of the japonse zijde rok, a popular ready-made garment that initially came to the Dutch Republic from Japan via the Dutch East India Company (VOC) and was much sought after by European elites. The study of these rare and expensive robes has been complicated by the fact that a variety of names are used to describe the same or similar garment types, some of which have different points of origin and may even be made from different materials, which the Dutch Textile Trade Project’s data and web applications has helped to clarify. This essay also shows how the Dutch Textile Trade Project’s open-access data can be used for quantitative research inquiries and to create independent data visualizations.
日本zijde rok是一种流行的成衣,最初通过荷兰东印度公司(VOC)从日本来到荷兰共和国,受到欧洲精英的追捧。荷兰纺织品贸易项目的数据和网络应用程序帮助澄清了这一点,因为不同的名称被用来描述相同或相似的服装类型,其中一些有不同的起源点,甚至可能由不同的材料制成,因此对这些稀有而昂贵的长袍的研究变得复杂。本文还展示了如何将荷兰纺织品贸易项目的开放获取数据用于定量研究查询和创建独立的数据可视化。
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引用次数: 0
Textile Circulation in the Dutch Global Market: A Digital Approach 荷兰全球市场的纺织品流通:数字化途径
Pub Date : 2023-03-01 DOI: 10.5092/jhna.2023.15.1.1
Carrie Anderson, Marsely L. Kehoe
From the refined silk used to make japonse rokken to the coarse cotton of laborers’ shirts, textiles have long been critical indicators of rank and status in the visual culture of the early modern Dutch Republic and its global networks. And yet, due to the complexity of the trade, the ways in which these textiles generated meaning is not easy to discern. With these concerns in mind, this essay debuts the preliminary findings of the Dutch Textile Trade Project (dutchtextiletrade.org), an ongoing, collaborative digital art history project that brings together four types of data (textual, material, visual, and quantitative) in an effort to advance the study of historic trade textiles and their social meanings.
从用于制作日本丝绸的精致丝绸到劳工衬衫的粗棉,纺织品一直是近代早期荷兰共和国及其全球网络视觉文化中地位和地位的关键指标。然而,由于贸易的复杂性,这些纺织品产生意义的方式并不容易辨别。考虑到这些问题,本文首次介绍了荷兰纺织品贸易项目(dutchtextiletrade.org)的初步发现,这是一个正在进行的合作数字艺术史项目,汇集了四种类型的数据(文本、材料、视觉和定量),旨在推进对历史贸易纺织品及其社会意义的研究。
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引用次数: 0
Dutch Textile Trade: Issue and Project Introduction 荷兰纺织品贸易:问题与项目介绍
Pub Date : 2023-03-01 DOI: 10.5092/jhna.2023.15.1.10
Carrie Anderson, Marsley Kehoe
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引用次数: 0
Connecting (described) Fibers: Controlled Vocabularies of Global Textiles 连接(描述)纤维:全球纺织品受控词汇
Pub Date : 2023-03-01 DOI: 10.5092/jhna.2023.15.1.9
Jennifer E. Henel
This article explores the ways in which the Dutch Textile Trade Project contributes to broader discoverability of terms by employing and contributing to a taxonomy and expanding controlled vocabularies.
本文探讨了荷兰纺织品贸易项目如何通过使用分类法和扩展受控词汇表来促进术语更广泛的可发现性。
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引用次数: 0
Locating the Madras Kerchief in Global Textile Trade: Convergences Between Connecting Threads and the Dutch Textile Trade Project 马德拉斯头巾在全球纺织品贸易中的定位:连接线与荷兰纺织品贸易项目之间的衔接
Pub Date : 2023-03-01 DOI: 10.5092/jhna.2023.15.1.4
V. de Lorenzo, Avalon Fotheringham, D. Murali, M. Priyadarshini
This essay presents collaborative research related to the National Endowment for the Humanities-Arts and Humanities Research Council grant-funded project Connecting Threads, a website that brings together academics and curators across the United Kingdom and the United States who seek to contribute to wider decolonization work in the humanities and engage communities whose contributions to global cultures of textiles and fashion have historically been ignored. The Connecting Threads research team uses the Dutch Textile Trade Project’s data and web applications to deepen understanding of the Madras kerchief, a large checked cotton square cloth that circulated in Afro-diasporic communities in the Caribbean during the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries.
这篇文章介绍了与国家人文艺术和人文研究委员会资助的项目“连接线程”有关的合作研究,该项目是一个网站,汇集了英国和美国的学者和策展人,他们寻求在人文学科中为更广泛的非殖民化工作做出贡献,并吸引那些对全球纺织品和时尚文化的贡献在历史上被忽视的社区。“连接丝线”研究小组使用荷兰纺织品贸易项目的数据和网络应用程序来加深对马德拉斯头巾的了解,马德拉斯头巾是一种大格子棉布,在18世纪和19世纪在加勒比地区的非洲移民社区中流传。
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引用次数: 0
The Façade of Neutrality: Unearthing Hidden Histories in the Montias Database with Digital Methodologies 中立的伪装:用数字方法挖掘Montias数据库中隐藏的历史
Pub Date : 2023-03-01 DOI: 10.5092/jhna.2023.15.1.8
Lauryn P. Smith
Technological innovations and the 2020 global pandemic have increased scholarly interactions with and reliance on digital resources, leading cultural heritage institutions to prioritize initiatives that digitize and organize their collections online, aiding in their accessibility to a wider global audience. Focusing on the Montias Database of 17th Century Art Inventories, this article turns a critical eye toward digitized art-historical data that is collected, preserved, and organized by cultural heritage institutions. Using the digital art history project “Beyond ‘Exceptional’: Reassessing Women’s Participation in the Cultural Sphere of Seventeenth-Century Amsterdam with Digital Social Network Analysis,” I demonstrate the potential of computational methods for mediating the biases inherent to these collections.
技术创新和2020年全球流行病增加了与数字资源的学术互动和对数字资源的依赖,导致文化遗产机构优先考虑数字化和在线组织其藏品的举措,以帮助更广泛的全球受众获取这些藏品。本文以Montias 17世纪艺术库存数据库为重点,对文化遗产机构收集、保存和组织的数字化艺术历史数据进行了批判。利用数字艺术史项目“超越‘例外’:用数字社会网络分析重新评估17世纪阿姆斯特丹文化领域中的女性参与”,我展示了计算方法在调解这些藏品固有偏见方面的潜力。
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引用次数: 0
The Filaments of the Textile Trade: Subtle and Broad Trends in Exports from South Asia to Maritime Southeast Asia 纺织品贸易的细丝:南亚对东南亚海上出口的微妙和广泛趋势
Pub Date : 2023-03-01 DOI: 10.5092/jhna.2023.15.1.3
Sylvia W. Houghteling
This essay uses an eighteenth-century patolu—a fine silk double-ikat textile—as the jumping-off point to explore the complex trading relationship between South Asia and the islands of maritime Southeast Asia. Using the Dutch Textile Trade Project’s data and visualizations, this essay considers the loosening connections between specific localities (including Gujarat, the Coromandel Coast, and Bengal) and their characteristic textiles in South Asia in the early eighteenth century. The commerce in textiles was further transformed by the rise of the opium trade, a commodity for which the Dutch East India Company (VOC) had established a monopoly by the eighteenth century.
本文以一种18世纪的丝绸双ikat纺织品为出发点,探讨南亚与东南亚海上岛屿之间复杂的贸易关系。利用荷兰纺织品贸易项目的数据和可视化,本文考虑了18世纪早期南亚特定地区(包括古吉拉特邦、科罗曼德尔海岸和孟加拉)与其特色纺织品之间的松动联系。鸦片贸易的兴起进一步改变了纺织品贸易,荷兰东印度公司(VOC)在18世纪建立了对这种商品的垄断。
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引用次数: 0
From ‘Sits’ to ‘Spices’: Dutch Interactions with the Global Circulation of Indian Textiles 从“坐”到“香料”:荷兰与印度纺织品全球流通的互动
Pub Date : 2023-03-01 DOI: 10.5092/jhna.2023.15.1.6
C. Nierstrasz
This historiographical essay explores the ways in which scholars—both historians and art historians—have studied the production of and trade in textiles in the early modern period in quantitative and qualitative ways. It discusses not only how textiles were a critically important commodity for both the English and Dutch East India Companies but also how a digital, data-driven approach can enhance our understanding of this complex trade.
这篇史学论文探讨了学者们——包括历史学家和艺术史学家——用定量和定性的方法研究了现代早期纺织品的生产和贸易。它不仅讨论了纺织品如何成为英国和荷兰东印度公司至关重要的商品,还讨论了数字化、数据驱动的方法如何增强我们对这种复杂贸易的理解。
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引用次数: 0
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Journal of Historians of Netherlandish Art
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