Pub Date : 2023-12-29DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11010005
Raquel Sanabria-de la Torre, María Ceres-Muñoz, Carlota Pretel-Lara, T. Montero‐Vilchez, Salvador Arias-Santiago
(1) Background: Skin barrier function resides mostly in the stratum corneum, which consists of a protein component, the corneocyte (bricks), which provides a scaffold for the second component, the extracellular matrix, consisting of multilayers of lipids (mortar). These two components closely interact and this could be the basis for the differences in the biophysical properties of the skin between anatomical regions. So, the aim of this study was to compare skin microstructural properties between body sites. (2) Methods: A comparative study was conducted that included healthy individuals without previous skin diseases. Skin barrier function parameters and microtopography parameters (smoothness, roughness, desquamation, wrinkles, surface, volume, contrast, variance, homogeneity, anisotropy, total cell count, flaking index, skin surface hardness, brightness, deformability and friction) were measured on the forearm, cheek and palm. (3) Results: 44 participants were included in this study, with a mean age of 38.8 ± 15.0 years. Significant differences were found between body sites for 14 of the 15 parameters evaluated. Smoothness was higher on the forearm than on the cheek and palm (240.02 Sems vs. 348.16 vs. 408.19 Sems, p < 0.05). Hardness was higher on the palm than on the forearm and cheek (13.22 AU vs. 9.44 AU vs. 7.94 AU, p < 0.05). Moreover, we observed that sociodemographic characteristics such as age, sex, tobacco and/or alcohol use, influenced the parameters evaluated. (4) Conclusions: The differences in skin barrier function and microtopography between anatomical regions reflects the different structure of skin in each body part and could help to understand the influence of the sociodemographic characteristics on theses parameters. This information could be useful for comparison with pathological skin characteristics and for targeting new treatments.
(1) 背景：皮肤的屏障功能主要取决于角质层，角质层由蛋白质成分--角质细胞（砖块）组成，它为第二种成分--细胞外基质（由多层脂质（灰泥）组成）提供了支架。这两种成分相互作用密切，这可能是不同解剖区域的皮肤生物物理特性存在差异的原因。因此，本研究的目的是比较不同身体部位的皮肤微观结构特性。(2）方法：研究对象为无皮肤病的健康人。测量了前臂、脸颊和手掌的皮肤屏障功能参数和微观结构参数（光滑度、粗糙度、脱屑、皱纹、表面、体积、对比度、方差、均匀性、各向异性、细胞总数、剥落指数、皮肤表面硬度、亮度、变形性和摩擦力）。 (3) 结果：本研究共纳入 44 名参与者，平均年龄为（38.8 ± 15.0）岁。在所评估的 15 项参数中，有 14 项在身体部位之间存在显著差异。前臂的光滑度高于脸颊和手掌（240.02 Sems vs. 348.16 vs. 408.19 Sems，p < 0.05）。手掌的硬度高于前臂和脸颊（13.22 AU vs. 9.44 AU vs. 7.94 AU，p < 0.05）。此外，我们还观察到，年龄、性别、吸烟和/或酗酒等社会人口特征也会影响评估参数。(4) 结论：不同解剖区域皮肤屏障功能和微地形图的差异反映了每个身体部位皮肤结构的不同，有助于了解社会人口特征对这些参数的影响。这些信息有助于与病理皮肤特征进行比较，并确定新的治疗方法。
{"title":"Microtopography and Barrier Function in Healthy Skin: Differences between Forearm, Cheek and Palm","authors":"Raquel Sanabria-de la Torre, María Ceres-Muñoz, Carlota Pretel-Lara, T. Montero‐Vilchez, Salvador Arias-Santiago","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics11010005","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11010005","url":null,"abstract":"(1) Background: Skin barrier function resides mostly in the stratum corneum, which consists of a protein component, the corneocyte (bricks), which provides a scaffold for the second component, the extracellular matrix, consisting of multilayers of lipids (mortar). These two components closely interact and this could be the basis for the differences in the biophysical properties of the skin between anatomical regions. So, the aim of this study was to compare skin microstructural properties between body sites. (2) Methods: A comparative study was conducted that included healthy individuals without previous skin diseases. Skin barrier function parameters and microtopography parameters (smoothness, roughness, desquamation, wrinkles, surface, volume, contrast, variance, homogeneity, anisotropy, total cell count, flaking index, skin surface hardness, brightness, deformability and friction) were measured on the forearm, cheek and palm. (3) Results: 44 participants were included in this study, with a mean age of 38.8 ± 15.0 years. Significant differences were found between body sites for 14 of the 15 parameters evaluated. Smoothness was higher on the forearm than on the cheek and palm (240.02 Sems vs. 348.16 vs. 408.19 Sems, p < 0.05). Hardness was higher on the palm than on the forearm and cheek (13.22 AU vs. 9.44 AU vs. 7.94 AU, p < 0.05). Moreover, we observed that sociodemographic characteristics such as age, sex, tobacco and/or alcohol use, influenced the parameters evaluated. (4) Conclusions: The differences in skin barrier function and microtopography between anatomical regions reflects the different structure of skin in each body part and could help to understand the influence of the sociodemographic characteristics on theses parameters. This information could be useful for comparison with pathological skin characteristics and for targeting new treatments.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":"139 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":3.3,"publicationDate":"2023-12-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"139146342","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-12-25DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11010004
Thuy-Tien Thi Trinh, P. Chien, L. Le, Nguyen Ngan-Giang, Pham Thi Nga, Sun-Young Nam, C. Heo
One of the most notable signs of an aging face is the nasolabial folds (NLFs), which often diminish emotional well-being and self-confidence. To address this concern, many people seek solutions to improve their appearance, often turning to fillers. The ULTRACOL100 device, a tissue restoration material, has been previously investigated and shown to exhibit significant efficacy in both in vitro and in vivo studies. In this research, we aim to explore the safety and effectiveness of the clinical trial of ULTRACOL100 in improving the skin in the NLF area over an 8-week observation period. Male and Female adults with nasolabial folds received two injections of ULTRACOL100, with a 4-week interval between treatments, on one side of their faces. On the other side, they received control materials (REJURAN®, JUVELOOK®, or HYRONT®). The assessment of skin improvement in the nasolabial fold area for each subject took place before and four weeks after each application. Various skin parameters, such as roughness, elasticity, moisture, transparency, trans-epidermal water loss, tone, radiance, skin pore size, and skin density, were measured to evaluate the outcomes. The application of the ULTRACOL100 device significantly reduced the skin roughness, the trans-epidermal water loss, and the skin pore size and increased the skin’s elasticity and internal elasticity, as well as the skin’s moisture, transparency, skin tone, radiance, and density. This study comprehensively investigates the effectiveness and safety of the ULTRACOL100 device, comparing it with three commercial products (REJURAN®, JUVELOOK®, and HYRONT®). The ULTRACOL100 device showed comparable performance in improving the appearance of the NLF area among this study subjects.
{"title":"An Assessment of the Effectiveness and Safety of ULTRACOL100 as a Device for Restoring Skin in the Nasolabial Fold Region","authors":"Thuy-Tien Thi Trinh, P. Chien, L. Le, Nguyen Ngan-Giang, Pham Thi Nga, Sun-Young Nam, C. Heo","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics11010004","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11010004","url":null,"abstract":"One of the most notable signs of an aging face is the nasolabial folds (NLFs), which often diminish emotional well-being and self-confidence. To address this concern, many people seek solutions to improve their appearance, often turning to fillers. The ULTRACOL100 device, a tissue restoration material, has been previously investigated and shown to exhibit significant efficacy in both in vitro and in vivo studies. In this research, we aim to explore the safety and effectiveness of the clinical trial of ULTRACOL100 in improving the skin in the NLF area over an 8-week observation period. Male and Female adults with nasolabial folds received two injections of ULTRACOL100, with a 4-week interval between treatments, on one side of their faces. On the other side, they received control materials (REJURAN®, JUVELOOK®, or HYRONT®). The assessment of skin improvement in the nasolabial fold area for each subject took place before and four weeks after each application. Various skin parameters, such as roughness, elasticity, moisture, transparency, trans-epidermal water loss, tone, radiance, skin pore size, and skin density, were measured to evaluate the outcomes. The application of the ULTRACOL100 device significantly reduced the skin roughness, the trans-epidermal water loss, and the skin pore size and increased the skin’s elasticity and internal elasticity, as well as the skin’s moisture, transparency, skin tone, radiance, and density. This study comprehensively investigates the effectiveness and safety of the ULTRACOL100 device, comparing it with three commercial products (REJURAN®, JUVELOOK®, and HYRONT®). The ULTRACOL100 device showed comparable performance in improving the appearance of the NLF area among this study subjects.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":"12 2","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":3.3,"publicationDate":"2023-12-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"139158406","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-12-25DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11010003
Nadia Sciamarrelli, F. Rosset, S. Boskovic, Silvia Borriello, L. Mastorino, S. Ribero, P. Quaglino, P. Broganelli
This original article presents the findings of a comprehensive case series, shedding light on the efficacy of diverse treatment modalities for managing precancerous and cancerous skin lesions and their remarkable rejuvenation effects on the skin. A particular focus is placed on the promising outcomes achieved through the application of a combination treatment involving 5-Fluorouracil (5-FU) and salicylic acid, which demonstrates enduring and noteworthy results. Furthermore, alternative therapeutic approaches, including 5-FU monotherapy, Methyl aminolevulinate–photodynamic therapy (MAL-PDT), and the combination of Imiquimod therapy with MAL-PDT, exhibit substantial potential for patients seeking non-surgical solutions. These treatments manifest as valuable tools in improving skin texture and mitigating the effects of photodamage. Nevertheless, the intricate interplay between the chosen treatment, the extent of photodamage, and individual patient characteristics, with a particular emphasis on age, necessitates long-term follow-up to gauge treatment outcomes and the likelihood of lesion recurrence. Notably, these treatments are associated with a significant degree of inflammation, igniting curiosity regarding enhanced skin cellular turnover and the potential for a more youthful skin appearance. Our findings accentuate the promise of topical fluorouracil (5-FU) and photodynamic therapy (PDT) in combating photoaging among patients with actinic keratoses. However, a need for further in-depth research is evident to unravel the nuanced relationships between these treatments, the severity of photodamage, and the influence of patient-specific factors. Such comprehensive investigations are instrumental in optimizing patient care and outcomes, offering a holistic approach to managing photodamage within the context of actinic keratoses. This work, when combined with existing literature, provides valuable insights and serves as a catalyst for future research to fully unlock the potential of these treatments, ultimately enhancing the quality of patient care.
{"title":"Simultaneous Skin Rejuvenation in Patients Undergoing Medical Treatment for Actinic Keratosis and Non-Melanoma Skin Cancer: A Case Series Analysis","authors":"Nadia Sciamarrelli, F. Rosset, S. Boskovic, Silvia Borriello, L. Mastorino, S. Ribero, P. Quaglino, P. Broganelli","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics11010003","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11010003","url":null,"abstract":"This original article presents the findings of a comprehensive case series, shedding light on the efficacy of diverse treatment modalities for managing precancerous and cancerous skin lesions and their remarkable rejuvenation effects on the skin. A particular focus is placed on the promising outcomes achieved through the application of a combination treatment involving 5-Fluorouracil (5-FU) and salicylic acid, which demonstrates enduring and noteworthy results. Furthermore, alternative therapeutic approaches, including 5-FU monotherapy, Methyl aminolevulinate–photodynamic therapy (MAL-PDT), and the combination of Imiquimod therapy with MAL-PDT, exhibit substantial potential for patients seeking non-surgical solutions. These treatments manifest as valuable tools in improving skin texture and mitigating the effects of photodamage. Nevertheless, the intricate interplay between the chosen treatment, the extent of photodamage, and individual patient characteristics, with a particular emphasis on age, necessitates long-term follow-up to gauge treatment outcomes and the likelihood of lesion recurrence. Notably, these treatments are associated with a significant degree of inflammation, igniting curiosity regarding enhanced skin cellular turnover and the potential for a more youthful skin appearance. Our findings accentuate the promise of topical fluorouracil (5-FU) and photodynamic therapy (PDT) in combating photoaging among patients with actinic keratoses. However, a need for further in-depth research is evident to unravel the nuanced relationships between these treatments, the severity of photodamage, and the influence of patient-specific factors. Such comprehensive investigations are instrumental in optimizing patient care and outcomes, offering a holistic approach to managing photodamage within the context of actinic keratoses. This work, when combined with existing literature, provides valuable insights and serves as a catalyst for future research to fully unlock the potential of these treatments, ultimately enhancing the quality of patient care.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":"30 11","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":3.3,"publicationDate":"2023-12-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"139158896","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-12-22DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11010002
Shani Shecori, Mafatlal M. Kher, Aharon Azagury, E. Drori
Hyperpigmentation, characterized by the excessive accumulation of melanin in the skin, is a common dermatological concern triggered by various factors, including UV radiation exposure. This study investigates the potential of grapevine leaf extracts in treating hyperpigmentation induced by UV radiation, focusing on 11 European and 12 Israeli grapevine varieties. Our research explores the correlations between total polyphenol content (TPC), tyrosinase inhibition, sun protection factor (SPF), and half-maximal inhibitory concentration (IC50) of these extracts. Our findings reveal substantial variation in TPC among grapevine varieties’ leaves, with the Israeli varieties showing higher TPC levels than the European ones. Correlation analysis demonstrates a robust link between TPC and SPF, indicating that increased TPC contributes to enhanced sun protection properties. However, TPC alone does not strongly correlate with tyrosinase inhibition, suggesting the importance of specific polyphenols in tyrosinase inhibition. Furthermore, the study identifies specific peaks in the HPLC analysis that correlate with desired activities. In summary, our research highlights the potential of grapevine leaf extracts, especially those from Israeli indigenous varieties, in addressing hyperpigmentation. It emphasizes the importance of specific polyphenols rather than TPC alone in achieving the desired effects. These findings open doors for further investigation into identifying and isolating active compounds from grapevine leaves for skincare applications.
{"title":"The Potential of Grapevine Leaf Extract in Treating Hyperpigmentation","authors":"Shani Shecori, Mafatlal M. Kher, Aharon Azagury, E. Drori","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics11010002","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11010002","url":null,"abstract":"Hyperpigmentation, characterized by the excessive accumulation of melanin in the skin, is a common dermatological concern triggered by various factors, including UV radiation exposure. This study investigates the potential of grapevine leaf extracts in treating hyperpigmentation induced by UV radiation, focusing on 11 European and 12 Israeli grapevine varieties. Our research explores the correlations between total polyphenol content (TPC), tyrosinase inhibition, sun protection factor (SPF), and half-maximal inhibitory concentration (IC50) of these extracts. Our findings reveal substantial variation in TPC among grapevine varieties’ leaves, with the Israeli varieties showing higher TPC levels than the European ones. Correlation analysis demonstrates a robust link between TPC and SPF, indicating that increased TPC contributes to enhanced sun protection properties. However, TPC alone does not strongly correlate with tyrosinase inhibition, suggesting the importance of specific polyphenols in tyrosinase inhibition. Furthermore, the study identifies specific peaks in the HPLC analysis that correlate with desired activities. In summary, our research highlights the potential of grapevine leaf extracts, especially those from Israeli indigenous varieties, in addressing hyperpigmentation. It emphasizes the importance of specific polyphenols rather than TPC alone in achieving the desired effects. These findings open doors for further investigation into identifying and isolating active compounds from grapevine leaves for skincare applications.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":"18 3","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":3.3,"publicationDate":"2023-12-22","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"139163572","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-12-19DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11010001
Felipe Rico, Angela P Mazabel, Greciel Egurrola, Juanita Pulido, Nelson Barrios, R. Marquez, Johnbrynner García
The ever-evolving cosmetic industry requires advanced analytical techniques to explore, understand, and optimize product performance at nano, micro, and macroscopic levels. Nowadays, these insights are crucial for translating microstructure behavior into macroscopic properties. This knowledge is essential to formulate products with a lower carbon footprint and a higher sustainability profile, incorporating, at the same time, natural or biobased raw materials. These raw materials may present challenges for formulators and analytical scientists due to either an inferior performance when compared to their fossil-derived counterparts or higher costs. This comprehensive review covers a spectrum of analytical methodologies employed in cosmetic formulation, including chromatographic analyses, olfactometry, and electronic nose technology. The characterization of product stability involving assessing parameters such as droplet size, zeta potential, viscosity, analytical centrifugation, surface tension, and interfacial tension are also explored. The discussion in this paper extends to the role of rheology in understanding the molecular structure and behavioral dynamics of cosmetic samples. This review concludes with an overview of colorimetric analysis, a crucial aspect related to consumer perception, followed by a discussion on the challenges and opportunities associated with using meta-analysis methodologies in cosmetics. The formulation of cosmetics employing biobased feedstocks is included, highlighting the evolving landscape of cosmetic science and the integration of sustainable practices. This review stands at the interface between a meta-analysis of cosmetics and product performance, which is attained through a detailed examination of each analytical method. The know-how shared serves as a valuable resource for formulators, researchers, and industry professionals for real-world applications in the analytical field of cosmetics formulation.
{"title":"Meta-Analysis and Analytical Methods in Cosmetics Formulation: A Review","authors":"Felipe Rico, Angela P Mazabel, Greciel Egurrola, Juanita Pulido, Nelson Barrios, R. Marquez, Johnbrynner García","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics11010001","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11010001","url":null,"abstract":"The ever-evolving cosmetic industry requires advanced analytical techniques to explore, understand, and optimize product performance at nano, micro, and macroscopic levels. Nowadays, these insights are crucial for translating microstructure behavior into macroscopic properties. This knowledge is essential to formulate products with a lower carbon footprint and a higher sustainability profile, incorporating, at the same time, natural or biobased raw materials. These raw materials may present challenges for formulators and analytical scientists due to either an inferior performance when compared to their fossil-derived counterparts or higher costs. This comprehensive review covers a spectrum of analytical methodologies employed in cosmetic formulation, including chromatographic analyses, olfactometry, and electronic nose technology. The characterization of product stability involving assessing parameters such as droplet size, zeta potential, viscosity, analytical centrifugation, surface tension, and interfacial tension are also explored. The discussion in this paper extends to the role of rheology in understanding the molecular structure and behavioral dynamics of cosmetic samples. This review concludes with an overview of colorimetric analysis, a crucial aspect related to consumer perception, followed by a discussion on the challenges and opportunities associated with using meta-analysis methodologies in cosmetics. The formulation of cosmetics employing biobased feedstocks is included, highlighting the evolving landscape of cosmetic science and the integration of sustainable practices. This review stands at the interface between a meta-analysis of cosmetics and product performance, which is attained through a detailed examination of each analytical method. The know-how shared serves as a valuable resource for formulators, researchers, and industry professionals for real-world applications in the analytical field of cosmetics formulation.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":"113 10","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":3.3,"publicationDate":"2023-12-19","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"138959741","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-12-18DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics10060172
Marielle Moreau, Tanesha Naiken, Gérard Bru, Clarisse Marteau, Laurence Canaple, Lorène Gourguillon, Emmanuelle Leblanc, Elodie Oger, Audrey Le Mestr, Joel Mantelin, Isabelle Imbert, C. Nizard, A. Bulteau
Objective: This study explored the impact of a black tea extract obtained through (plant small RNA) PSRTM technology, characterized by its abundance of small molecules, particularly citric acid—an antioxidant and tricarboxylic acid (TCA) cycle contributor—on mitochondrial health. The primary focus was to assess whether this extract could counteract reactive oxygen species (ROS)-induced mitochondrial alterations associated with aging, which lead to impaired mitochondrial function, reduced ATP production, and increased ROS generation. Methods: The PSRTM extraction method was employed to obtain a high content of polyphenols and small molecules, particularly citric acid. Results: In comparison with a conventional extract, the PSRTM extract demonstrated significant enhancements in aconitase activity, an ROS-sensitive enzyme in the TCA cycle, as well as basal respiration and ATP synthesis in fibroblast cells and skin biopsies. Moreover, the PSRTM extract effectively reduced ROS production by safeguarding this critical enzyme within the Krebs cycle and displayed superior capabilities in scavenging free radicals when exposed to UV-induced stress. When administered post-UV exposure, the PSRTM extract protected nuclear DNA by reducing the formation of cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPDs) and promoting DNA repair mechanisms. Furthermore, the extract exhibited beneficial effects on the extracellular matrix, characterized by a reduction in matrix metalloprotease 1 (MMP1) and an increase in fibrillin 1 expression. Conclusions: These findings collectively suggest that the PSRTM extract holds promising antiaging potential, potentially functioning as a mitochondrial nutrient/protector due to its multifaceted benefits on mitochondrial function, nuclear DNA integrity, and the extracellular matrix.
研究目的本研究探讨了通过（植物小 RNA）PSRTM 技术获得的红茶提取物对线粒体健康的影响，该提取物的特点是富含小分子，尤其是柠檬酸--一种抗氧化剂和三羧酸（TCA）循环促进剂。主要重点是评估这种提取物是否能抵消活性氧（ROS）诱导的与衰老相关的线粒体改变，衰老会导致线粒体功能受损、ATP 生成减少以及 ROS 生成增加。方法：采用 PSRTM 萃取法获得高含量的多酚和小分子物质，尤其是柠檬酸。结果：与传统提取物相比，PSRTM 提取物在成纤维细胞和皮肤活检中显著提高了乌头酶（TCA 循环中对 ROS 敏感的一种酶）的活性、基础呼吸作用和 ATP 合成。此外，PSRTM 提取物通过保护克雷布斯循环中的这种关键酶，有效减少了 ROS 的产生，并在紫外线诱导的压力下显示出卓越的清除自由基的能力。紫外线照射后服用 PSRTM 提取物，可减少环丁烷嘧啶二聚体（CPD）的形成，促进 DNA 修复机制，从而保护核 DNA。此外，该提取物还对细胞外基质产生了有益的影响，其特点是减少了基质金属蛋白酶 1（MMP1），增加了纤维蛋白 1 的表达。结论这些发现共同表明，PSRTM 提取物具有抗衰老的潜力，由于它对线粒体功能、核 DNA 完整性和细胞外基质具有多方面的益处，因此有可能成为线粒体营养素/保护剂。
{"title":"The Impact of PSR™ (Plant Small RNA Technology), Tea Extract, and Its Principal Components on Mitochondrial Function and Antioxidant Properties in Skin Cells","authors":"Marielle Moreau, Tanesha Naiken, Gérard Bru, Clarisse Marteau, Laurence Canaple, Lorène Gourguillon, Emmanuelle Leblanc, Elodie Oger, Audrey Le Mestr, Joel Mantelin, Isabelle Imbert, C. Nizard, A. Bulteau","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics10060172","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10060172","url":null,"abstract":"Objective: This study explored the impact of a black tea extract obtained through (plant small RNA) PSRTM technology, characterized by its abundance of small molecules, particularly citric acid—an antioxidant and tricarboxylic acid (TCA) cycle contributor—on mitochondrial health. The primary focus was to assess whether this extract could counteract reactive oxygen species (ROS)-induced mitochondrial alterations associated with aging, which lead to impaired mitochondrial function, reduced ATP production, and increased ROS generation. Methods: The PSRTM extraction method was employed to obtain a high content of polyphenols and small molecules, particularly citric acid. Results: In comparison with a conventional extract, the PSRTM extract demonstrated significant enhancements in aconitase activity, an ROS-sensitive enzyme in the TCA cycle, as well as basal respiration and ATP synthesis in fibroblast cells and skin biopsies. Moreover, the PSRTM extract effectively reduced ROS production by safeguarding this critical enzyme within the Krebs cycle and displayed superior capabilities in scavenging free radicals when exposed to UV-induced stress. When administered post-UV exposure, the PSRTM extract protected nuclear DNA by reducing the formation of cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPDs) and promoting DNA repair mechanisms. Furthermore, the extract exhibited beneficial effects on the extracellular matrix, characterized by a reduction in matrix metalloprotease 1 (MMP1) and an increase in fibrillin 1 expression. Conclusions: These findings collectively suggest that the PSRTM extract holds promising antiaging potential, potentially functioning as a mitochondrial nutrient/protector due to its multifaceted benefits on mitochondrial function, nuclear DNA integrity, and the extracellular matrix.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":"28 2","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":3.3,"publicationDate":"2023-12-18","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"139173059","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-12-15DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics10060171
Ira Maya, Devani Olivia Winardi, Eri Amalia, S. R. Mita, Cahya Khairani Kusumawulan, N. Putriana, Sriwidodo Sriwidodo
Free radicals can cause damage to the structure of the dermis layer, which makes skin lose its elasticity and leads to the formation of wrinkles. A strategy to prevent this problem is by using antioxidants. A plant that has been reported to contain good antioxidant activity is sacha inchi seed (Plukenetia volubilis L.); apart from that, its oil has quite a high omega-3 content and potentially can act as an anti-aging agent stimulating the skin-cell-regeneration process, maintaining skin moisture and elasticity and stimulating collagen production. This research aims to analyze the physicochemical characteristics and determine the fatty acid profile, the levels of vitamins A, D, and E, and the antioxidant activity of sacha inchi seed oil. This research was conducted through eight main stages: sacha inchi seed extraction, quality parameters checking, phytochemical screening, determining fatty acid profiles, vitamin analysis, antioxidant activity tests, microbiological contamination tests, and heavy-metal contamination tests. In this study, quality inspection results were obtained: organoleptic form (liquid), color (yellow), odor (typical), relative density value (0.91 g/cm3), acid number (0.38 ± 0.02 mg/g), peroxide value (11.01 mEq/Kg), iodine value (179.32 g/100 g), and refractive index (1.479). The phytochemical screening results of sacha inchi seed oil were positive for containing flavonoids, triterpenoids, and steroids. The results of the fatty acid profile were omega-3 (48.5%), omega-6 (34.8%), and omega-9 (7.7%). The results of the vitamin contents analysis were vitamin A (123.42 mg/100 g), vitamin D (899.46 mg/100 g), and vitamin E (145.06 mg/100 g). The antioxidant activity test showed an IC50 value of 8.859 ppm (very strong), and the microbial and heavy-metal contamination tests were negative.
{"title":"Physicochemical Characteristics, Fatty Acid Profile, and In Vitro Antioxidant Activity Evaluation of Sacha Inchi Seed Oil from Indonesia","authors":"Ira Maya, Devani Olivia Winardi, Eri Amalia, S. R. Mita, Cahya Khairani Kusumawulan, N. Putriana, Sriwidodo Sriwidodo","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics10060171","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10060171","url":null,"abstract":"Free radicals can cause damage to the structure of the dermis layer, which makes skin lose its elasticity and leads to the formation of wrinkles. A strategy to prevent this problem is by using antioxidants. A plant that has been reported to contain good antioxidant activity is sacha inchi seed (Plukenetia volubilis L.); apart from that, its oil has quite a high omega-3 content and potentially can act as an anti-aging agent stimulating the skin-cell-regeneration process, maintaining skin moisture and elasticity and stimulating collagen production. This research aims to analyze the physicochemical characteristics and determine the fatty acid profile, the levels of vitamins A, D, and E, and the antioxidant activity of sacha inchi seed oil. This research was conducted through eight main stages: sacha inchi seed extraction, quality parameters checking, phytochemical screening, determining fatty acid profiles, vitamin analysis, antioxidant activity tests, microbiological contamination tests, and heavy-metal contamination tests. In this study, quality inspection results were obtained: organoleptic form (liquid), color (yellow), odor (typical), relative density value (0.91 g/cm3), acid number (0.38 ± 0.02 mg/g), peroxide value (11.01 mEq/Kg), iodine value (179.32 g/100 g), and refractive index (1.479). The phytochemical screening results of sacha inchi seed oil were positive for containing flavonoids, triterpenoids, and steroids. The results of the fatty acid profile were omega-3 (48.5%), omega-6 (34.8%), and omega-9 (7.7%). The results of the vitamin contents analysis were vitamin A (123.42 mg/100 g), vitamin D (899.46 mg/100 g), and vitamin E (145.06 mg/100 g). The antioxidant activity test showed an IC50 value of 8.859 ppm (very strong), and the microbial and heavy-metal contamination tests were negative.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":"102 2","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":3.3,"publicationDate":"2023-12-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"138998532","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-12-14DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics10060170
Fatima Errajouani, Hanane Bakrim, Sohaib Hourfane, A. Louajri, J. Rocha, N. El Aouad, Amin Laglaoui
Long before its popularization as a skincare ingredient, snail slime was reported to have a variety of health-promoting attributes. Its medicinal use involved the treatment of ailments, such as anthrax, hernias, stomach pain, chest pain, as well as tuberculosis. The main aim of this study was to investigate the anti-inflammatory and wound-healing properties of snail slime from Cepaea hortensis (Müller, 1774) (brown garden snail). The slime was extracted by a mild method, and the anti-inflammatory characteristics were determined by croton-oil-induced mouse-ear edema. The histological study showed that the snail slime exerts its action at the level of inflammatory mediators, explaining the drastic decrease of edema (59% in comparison to the 47% of indomethacin). The daily application of 50 µL (15 mg/kg) of snail slime on excision wounds in rabbits proved to induce an almost full tissue repair after 24 days of treatment (87.80–92.7% wound closure in width and length, respectively). Analysis of the slime’s safety aspect allowed affirming the nontoxicity of snail slime on both the skin and eyes.
{"title":"Exploring the Potential Anti-Inflammatory and Wound-Healing Proprieties of Cepaea hortensis Snail Mucin","authors":"Fatima Errajouani, Hanane Bakrim, Sohaib Hourfane, A. Louajri, J. Rocha, N. El Aouad, Amin Laglaoui","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics10060170","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10060170","url":null,"abstract":"Long before its popularization as a skincare ingredient, snail slime was reported to have a variety of health-promoting attributes. Its medicinal use involved the treatment of ailments, such as anthrax, hernias, stomach pain, chest pain, as well as tuberculosis. The main aim of this study was to investigate the anti-inflammatory and wound-healing properties of snail slime from Cepaea hortensis (Müller, 1774) (brown garden snail). The slime was extracted by a mild method, and the anti-inflammatory characteristics were determined by croton-oil-induced mouse-ear edema. The histological study showed that the snail slime exerts its action at the level of inflammatory mediators, explaining the drastic decrease of edema (59% in comparison to the 47% of indomethacin). The daily application of 50 µL (15 mg/kg) of snail slime on excision wounds in rabbits proved to induce an almost full tissue repair after 24 days of treatment (87.80–92.7% wound closure in width and length, respectively). Analysis of the slime’s safety aspect allowed affirming the nontoxicity of snail slime on both the skin and eyes.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":"28 9","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":3.3,"publicationDate":"2023-12-14","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"138972371","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-12-12DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics10060169
A. Dzidek, O. Czerwińska-Ledwig, Aleksandra Ziembla, Karolina Matysiak, Karolina Zawadzka, M. Kulesa-Mrowiecka, Ivan Uher, T. Pałka, Janka Poráčová, Anna Piotrowska
The skin serves protective roles for internal organs and is responsible for maintaining homeostasis between the body and the environment. The outermost and most exposed part of the skin to environmental factors is the stratum corneum (SC). SC hydration and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) values provide information about the physiological state of the skin. Plant oils, owing to their chemical structure, possess moisturizing and protective functions. This study assessed the impact of a single application of drying oil (Rubus idaeus seed oil), semi-drying oil (Sesamum indicum seed oil), and nondrying oil (Cocos nucifera (coconut) oil) on specific skin characteristics in young, healthy women. Thirty-five female volunteers (age: 20.03 ± 1.69) participated in the study. Before commencing the investigation, a questionnaire survey on the subjective assessment of skin condition and a body composition test were conducted. Subsequently, each participant had three oils applied to nonoverlapping skin areas on the forearms. Skin characteristics were assessed before and 1 h after the oil application using specialized probes: a corneometer and a tewameter. An enhancement in skin hydration was evident after the application of each of the tested oils (p = 0.001). Raspberry oil demonstrated the most significant moisturizing effect, while coconut oil showed the weakest impact. Only raspberry seed oil (p = 0.012) resulted in a noteworthy decrease in TEWL. The initial skin condition did not correlate with the subjects’ body composition, and the improvement induced by the application of the oils was not dependent on body weight, body water content, or BMI (body mass index). The applied vegetable oils positively influence the level of SC hydration. Improvement in barrier function, as measured by TEWL, was observed only for raspberry seed oil.
{"title":"Impact of Raspberry Seed Oil, Sesame Oil, and Coconut Oil on Skin in Young Women","authors":"A. Dzidek, O. Czerwińska-Ledwig, Aleksandra Ziembla, Karolina Matysiak, Karolina Zawadzka, M. Kulesa-Mrowiecka, Ivan Uher, T. Pałka, Janka Poráčová, Anna Piotrowska","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics10060169","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10060169","url":null,"abstract":"The skin serves protective roles for internal organs and is responsible for maintaining homeostasis between the body and the environment. The outermost and most exposed part of the skin to environmental factors is the stratum corneum (SC). SC hydration and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) values provide information about the physiological state of the skin. Plant oils, owing to their chemical structure, possess moisturizing and protective functions. This study assessed the impact of a single application of drying oil (Rubus idaeus seed oil), semi-drying oil (Sesamum indicum seed oil), and nondrying oil (Cocos nucifera (coconut) oil) on specific skin characteristics in young, healthy women. Thirty-five female volunteers (age: 20.03 ± 1.69) participated in the study. Before commencing the investigation, a questionnaire survey on the subjective assessment of skin condition and a body composition test were conducted. Subsequently, each participant had three oils applied to nonoverlapping skin areas on the forearms. Skin characteristics were assessed before and 1 h after the oil application using specialized probes: a corneometer and a tewameter. An enhancement in skin hydration was evident after the application of each of the tested oils (p = 0.001). Raspberry oil demonstrated the most significant moisturizing effect, while coconut oil showed the weakest impact. Only raspberry seed oil (p = 0.012) resulted in a noteworthy decrease in TEWL. The initial skin condition did not correlate with the subjects’ body composition, and the improvement induced by the application of the oils was not dependent on body weight, body water content, or BMI (body mass index). The applied vegetable oils positively influence the level of SC hydration. Improvement in barrier function, as measured by TEWL, was observed only for raspberry seed oil.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":"42 2","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":3.3,"publicationDate":"2023-12-12","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"139007230","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-12-11DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics10060168
Lisa Kwin Wah Chan, Kar Wai Alvin Lee, Cheuk Hung Lee
Background: After significant weight loss, the abdominal skin can become permanently stretched, resulting in stretch marks, laxity, and thinning of the dermis. For many patients, surgical methods such as abdominoplasty are too risky due to the potential for complications, the lengthy recovery period, and the high cost. Objective: The purpose of this pilot study was to use microfocused ultrasound, calcium hydroxyapatite, and Incobotulinum toxin A to improve the appearance of patients who were suffering from abdominal skin laxity after heavy weight loss. The combination of these treatments can provide comprehensive results with minimal downtime and lower risk compared to traditional surgical procedures. Methods: Our team treated four female Chinese patients with microfocused ultrasound, diluted calcium hydroxylapatite, and Incobotulinum toxin A with different combinations, respectively. The first and second cases were only treated with 810 shots of microfocused ultrasound. The third case received 850 shots of microfocused ultrasound plus 5 mL of diluted calcium hydroxylapatite and 50 units of Incobotulinum toxin A on the left abdominal skin, and the fourth case was treated with 900 shots of microfocused ultrasound plus 5 mL of diluted calcium hydroxylapatite and 10 units of Incobotulinum toxin A on the left abdominal skin. All four patients received a single treatment session. Clinical photographs were taken before each treatment, and two individual blinded investigators were asked to assess photographs taken after 4 weeks and compare them with the pretreatment photos. Results: All four cases showed an overall clinical improvement, with the third and fourth cases demonstrating more significant skin tightening based on photographic analysis. The data indicate that the inclusion of calcium hydroxylapatite and Incobotulinum toxin A in microfocused ultrasound treatment yields superior results for abdominal rejuvenation. Conclusions: Abdominal skin laxity can be treated with a triple therapy combining microfocused ultrasound, diluted calcium hydroxylapatite, and Incobotulinum toxin A.
背景：体重大幅下降后，腹部皮肤会永久性拉伸，导致妊娠纹、松弛和真皮变薄。对许多患者来说，腹部整形等手术方法风险太大，因为可能出现并发症、恢复期长且费用高昂。研究目的本试验性研究的目的是使用微聚焦超声波、羟基磷灰石钙和 A 型肉毒杆菌毒素来改善重度减肥后腹部皮肤松弛患者的外观。与传统的外科手术相比，这些治疗方法的组合能在最少的停工期和较低的风险下提供全面的效果。治疗方法我们的团队对四名中国女性患者分别进行了微聚焦超声波、稀释羟基磷灰石钙和 A 型肉毒杆菌毒素的不同组合治疗。第一例和第二例只接受了 810 针微聚焦超声波治疗。第三例患者接受了 850 次微焦超声波治疗，外加 5 毫升稀释的羟基磷灰石钙和 50 单位的 A 型伊可丁毒素（Incobotulinum toxin A）涂抹在左腹部皮肤上；第四例患者接受了 900 次微焦超声波治疗，外加 5 毫升稀释的羟基磷灰石钙和 10 单位的 A 型伊可丁毒素涂抹在左腹部皮肤上。所有四名患者均接受了一次治疗。每次治疗前均拍摄临床照片，并要求两名独立的盲人调查员对 4 周后拍摄的照片进行评估，并与治疗前的照片进行比较。结果：所有四个病例都显示出整体临床改善，根据照片分析，第三和第四个病例的皮肤紧致效果更为显著。数据表明，在微聚焦超声波治疗中加入羟基磷灰石钙和 A 型肉毒杆菌毒素，能产生更佳的腹部年轻化效果。结论：腹部皮肤松弛可通过微聚焦超声波、稀释的羟基磷灰石钙和A型伊可塑毒素三合一疗法进行治疗。
{"title":"Pilot Study of Microfocused Ultrasound, Incobotulinum Toxin, and Calcium Hydroxyapatite in Triple Therapy for Skin Tightening after Weight Loss","authors":"Lisa Kwin Wah Chan, Kar Wai Alvin Lee, Cheuk Hung Lee","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics10060168","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10060168","url":null,"abstract":"Background: After significant weight loss, the abdominal skin can become permanently stretched, resulting in stretch marks, laxity, and thinning of the dermis. For many patients, surgical methods such as abdominoplasty are too risky due to the potential for complications, the lengthy recovery period, and the high cost. Objective: The purpose of this pilot study was to use microfocused ultrasound, calcium hydroxyapatite, and Incobotulinum toxin A to improve the appearance of patients who were suffering from abdominal skin laxity after heavy weight loss. The combination of these treatments can provide comprehensive results with minimal downtime and lower risk compared to traditional surgical procedures. Methods: Our team treated four female Chinese patients with microfocused ultrasound, diluted calcium hydroxylapatite, and Incobotulinum toxin A with different combinations, respectively. The first and second cases were only treated with 810 shots of microfocused ultrasound. The third case received 850 shots of microfocused ultrasound plus 5 mL of diluted calcium hydroxylapatite and 50 units of Incobotulinum toxin A on the left abdominal skin, and the fourth case was treated with 900 shots of microfocused ultrasound plus 5 mL of diluted calcium hydroxylapatite and 10 units of Incobotulinum toxin A on the left abdominal skin. All four patients received a single treatment session. Clinical photographs were taken before each treatment, and two individual blinded investigators were asked to assess photographs taken after 4 weeks and compare them with the pretreatment photos. Results: All four cases showed an overall clinical improvement, with the third and fourth cases demonstrating more significant skin tightening based on photographic analysis. The data indicate that the inclusion of calcium hydroxylapatite and Incobotulinum toxin A in microfocused ultrasound treatment yields superior results for abdominal rejuvenation. Conclusions: Abdominal skin laxity can be treated with a triple therapy combining microfocused ultrasound, diluted calcium hydroxylapatite, and Incobotulinum toxin A.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":"15 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":3.3,"publicationDate":"2023-12-11","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"138979286","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
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