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Environmental changes in the Okinawa Trough over the last 88 ka BP: Evidence from high-resolution bulk mineralogy 冲绳海槽过去88 ka BP的环境变化:来自高分辨率大块矿物学的证据
IF 2.2 3区 地球科学 Q2 GEOSCIENCES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Pub Date : 2025-12-20 DOI: 10.1016/j.margeo.2025.107699
Lingfeng Luo , Xuguang Feng , Jianjun Zou , Xisheng Fang , Xinru Xue , Ruxi Dou , Baohua Han , Qingchao Wang , Aimei Zhu , Zhi Dong , Gang Yang , Xuefa Shi
Deciphering sediment source-to-sink processes along the continental margin remains a frontier in marine sedimentology and paleoenvironmental research. The thick sedimentary sequences in the East China Sea and the Okinawa Trough provide an ideal setting for deciphering the riverine sediment discharge from East Asian rivers into the ocean and the evolution of the Kuroshio Current. While various proxies have been used to investigate sedimentary processes and paleoenvironmental evolution in the Okinawa Trough, debates persist regarding the variation processes, spatial patterns, and controlling mechanisms of sediment fluxes during the late Quaternary. Here, we present high-resolution bulk minerals from core CSH1 in the northern Okinawa Trough to investigate variations in terrigenous sediment composition, provenance, and fluxes over the last 88 ka BP. Dominant minerals in core CSH1 include quartz, plagioclase, mica, and calcite. Notably, calcite content and the calcite/quartz ratio exhibit lower values in glacials and higher values in interglacials, predominantly reflecting biogenic input. Enhanced Kuroshio Current facilitated warm and nutrient-rich waters to the northern Okinawa Trough and stimulate high calcareous productivity during interglacials. Quartz, plagioclase, and mica are typical detrital minerals, primarily derived from the East Asian continent and the Japan island arc. Sediment provenance indicates that the Changjiang and the Huanghe mixed inputs dominated during Marine Isotope Stage (MIS) 5.1, the Huanghe inputs dominated during MIS 4 to MIS 2, while Japan island arc volcaniclastic contributions increase significantly after 8 ka BP. Sea-level exerts a first-order control on terrestrial sediment supply. Other factors including East Asian Summer Monsoon, Kuroshio Current variability, and paleo-eustasy positioning have secondary influence on sediment pattern of the Okinawa Trough.
在海洋沉积学和古环境研究中,对大陆边缘沉积物源-汇过程的解读一直是一个前沿问题。东海和冲绳海槽的厚层序为解析东亚河流向海洋的泥沙排放和黑潮的演化提供了理想的环境。在冲绳海槽沉积过程和古环境演化的研究中,对晚第四纪沉积通量的变化过程、空间格局和控制机制仍存在争议。在这里,我们利用冲绳海槽北部CSH1岩心的高分辨率大块矿物来研究过去88 ka BP的陆源沉积物组成、物源和通量的变化。CSH1岩心的主要矿物有石英、斜长石、云母和方解石。方解石含量和方解石/石英比值在冰期较低,间冰期较高,主要反映了生物输入。间冰期黑潮的增强促进了冲绳海槽北部温暖而富营养的海水,刺激了高钙质生产力。石英、斜长石和云母是典型的碎屑矿物,主要产自东亚大陆和日本岛弧。沉积物物源特征表明,海相同位素阶段(MIS) 5.1以长江和黄河混合输入为主,MIS 4 ~ MIS 2以黄河输入为主,8 ka BP后日本岛弧火山碎屑贡献显著增加。海平面对陆地沉积物供应起一级控制作用。东亚夏季风、黑潮变率和古海游定位等因素对冲绳海槽沉积格局有次要影响。
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引用次数: 0
Morphological response and recovery of a headland-bay beach under sequential typhoon impacts 连续台风影响下海岬湾滩的形态响应与恢复
IF 2.2 3区 地球科学 Q2 GEOSCIENCES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Pub Date : 2025-12-20 DOI: 10.1016/j.margeo.2025.107698
Qi Chen , Yang Zhang , Fangting He , Shihao Liu , Ya Ping Wang , Jianjun Jia
Climate change is increasing the frequency and severity of coastal hazards, with rising sea levels and intensifying typhoons accelerating coastal erosion worldwide. Although headland-bay beaches are widely regarded as topographically protected, they are not immune to substantial erosion during intense typhoons. However, their morphodynamic responses to extreme events—particularly sequential typhoon impacts—remain poorly quantified and mechanistically understood, largely due to the lack of high-resolution monitoring. Here we examine Dasha Beach in Zhejiang Province, China, using high-resolution UAV-derived topography to quantify morphological changes associated with two sequential typhoons, Hinnamnor and Muifa, in September 2022. Hinnamnor generated 9827 m3 of net erosion concentrated in the central beach, and Muifa caused an additional 6370 m3 of erosion, completely removing the remaining beach berm. Post-typhoon recovery deposited 7352 m3 of sediment, predominately reconstructing the northern beach berm, and restoring volumes to pre-Muifa but not pre-Hinnamnor levels. Hydrodynamic analyses reveal pronounced cross-bay gradients in wave energy, with stronger forcing in the northern sector producing enhanced erosion during the typhoons and greater accretion during recovery. During typhoons, waves primarily drove cross-shore sediment transport. In the recovery phase dominated by obliquely incident waves, however, waves facilitated both cross-shore and longshore sediment transport. Swash processes (uprush and backwash) dominated sediment transport, while water-level variations controlled its spatial extent. Specifically, Muifa-induced high water levels combined with energetic waves led to severe berm erosion. The stable berm sediments, derived from well-sorted backshore and dune areas, exhibited minimal grain-size change under typhoon impact. The coarser sediments indicate that the depositional material during the recovery phase originated from the submarine seabed. Although Dasha Beach currently exhibits substantial short-term resilience, increasingly frequent and intense typhoons will pose escalating challenges. Therefore, the assessment of the need for human intervention on the beach and the design of appropriate beach nourishment schemes are among the key focuses for future research. Overall, these findings refine the process-based understanding of storm-driven morphodynamics, and provide a basis for safeguarding headland-bay beach stability.
气候变化增加了沿海灾害的频率和严重程度,海平面上升和台风加剧加速了世界范围内的海岸侵蚀。虽然人们普遍认为岬角湾的海滩在地形上受到保护,但在强烈台风期间,它们也不能幸免于严重的侵蚀。然而,由于缺乏高分辨率的监测,它们对极端事件(特别是连续的台风影响)的形态动力学反应仍然缺乏量化和机制理解。在这里,我们研究了中国浙江省的大沙海滩,使用高分辨率无人机衍生的地形来量化与2022年9月的两个连续台风“欣纳诺”和“梅花”相关的形态变化。Hinnamnor产生了9827立方米的净侵蚀,集中在中央海滩,Muifa造成了6370立方米的额外侵蚀,完全破坏了剩余的海滩护堤。台风后的恢复沉积了7352立方米的沉积物,主要是重建了北部海滩的护堤,并将体积恢复到muifa之前的水平,但没有恢复到hinnamnor之前的水平。水动力分析表明,波浪能的跨湾梯度明显,在台风期间,北段的强作用力使侵蚀加剧,在恢复期间增加。在台风期间,波浪主要推动了跨海岸的沉积物运输。而在以斜入射波为主的恢复阶段,波浪促进了海岸和海岸的泥沙搬运。冲冲和反冲是主导输沙过程,而水位变化控制其空间范围。具体来说,muifa引起的高水位加上高能海浪导致了严重的护堤侵蚀。在台风的影响下,来自分选良好的后海岸和沙丘地区的稳定的堤岸沉积物的粒度变化最小。较粗的沉积物表明,恢复阶段的沉积物质来源于海底。虽然大沙湾目前表现出相当大的短期恢复能力,但日益频繁和强烈的台风将带来越来越大的挑战。因此,评估人为干预海滩的需要和设计适当的海滩营养方案是未来研究的重点之一。总的来说,这些发现完善了基于过程的对风暴驱动的形态动力学的理解,并为维护岬湾海滩的稳定性提供了基础。
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引用次数: 0
Early Pleistocene (1.94–1.46 Ma) records for the upper Mediterranean Outflow Water branch reveal low and high latitude climate influences 早更新世(1.94-1.46 Ma)地中海上游流出水分支的记录揭示了低纬度和高纬度气候的影响
IF 2.2 3区 地球科学 Q2 GEOSCIENCES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Pub Date : 2025-12-13 DOI: 10.1016/j.margeo.2025.107697
Antje H.L. Voelker , Emanuelle Ducassou , Barbara Balestra , Jose Abel Flores , Gary D. Acton , Carl Richter , Chuang Xuan , Johanna Lofi , Ana Alberto , Henning Kuhnert , Carlos A. Alvarez Zarikian
The Mediterranean Outflow Water (MOW), modified by paleoceanographic conditions and tectonic processes, played a significant role in the formation of sediments drifts along the Iberian Margin. Using sediment samples from IODP Hole U1387C, we explore the Early Pleistocene history of the upper MOW core above the central Faro Drift in the Gulf of Cádiz. The time series of benthic foraminifer stable isotope and grain size related data have a rigorous stratigraphic framework consisting of nannofossil biostratigraphy and paleomagnetic and δ18O stratigraphy. The paleoenvironmental records are supplemented by natural gamma ray downhole logging data. Above the hiatus associated with the youngest dolostone, sandy to muddy contourite sedimentation started at 1.946 Ma, i.e., within Marine Isotope Stage (MIS) 74, at IODP Site U1387, slightly younger than at IODP Site U1389. Formation of contourite layers, reflected in the sortable silt and sand percentage records, strongly reacted to precession forcing, including semi- and quarter-precession cycles. The majority of the contourite beds developed during stadial (colder) climate periods, like previous observations from the Early to Late Pleistocene. Formation of contourite layers within MIS 53, MIS 55 and MIS 65, however, appear to be linked to the prevailing atmospheric conditions over North Africa. Periods of poor ventilation in the upper MOW were linked to insolation maxima and reduced ventilation in the Mediterranean Sea. Here, MIS 51 presents a peculiar case as poor ventilation reached from the surface to the lower North Atlantic Deep Water range, reflecting unique interglacial conditions that merit future exploration.
受古海洋条件和构造作用的影响,地中海流出水在伊比利亚边缘沉积物漂移的形成中起着重要作用。利用odp U1387C孔沉积物样品,研究了Cádiz湾法罗流中心上部MOW上部岩心的早更新世历史。底栖有孔虫稳定同位素时间序列和粒度相关数据具有由纳米化石生物地层学、古地磁地层学和δ18O地层学组成的严格的地层格架。自然伽马测井资料补充了古环境记录。在与最年轻的白云岩相关的断裂带之上,在IODP站点U1387,砂质到泥质轮廓岩沉积开始于1.946 Ma,即在海洋同位素阶段(MIS) 74,略低于IODP站点U1389。可分选的粉砂和砂的百分比记录表明,等高沉积层的形成强烈地反映了岁差强迫,包括半岁差和四分之一岁差旋回。大部分的等长岩层是在正常(较冷)气候时期发育的,就像以前从早更新世到晚更新世的观测结果一样。然而,MIS 53、MIS 55和MIS 65内轮廓层的形成似乎与北非的主要大气条件有关。MOW上部通风不良的时期与地中海的日照最大值和通风减少有关。在这里,MIS 51呈现了一个特殊的情况,即从北大西洋深水区到地表的通风不良,反映了独特的间冰期条件,值得未来的勘探。
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引用次数: 0
Geomorphic control of wave run-up by berm morphology on sandy beaches 沙质海滩护堤形态对波浪上升的地貌控制
IF 2.2 3区 地球科学 Q2 GEOSCIENCES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Pub Date : 2025-12-10 DOI: 10.1016/j.margeo.2025.107692
Yingtao Zhou , Zheng Li , Yu Zhu , Yuanshu Jiang , Xi Feng , Weibing Feng , Yulong Xue , Jutong Zhang
This study aims to advance the current understanding of the role that the berm plays in modulating wave run-up dynamics for elevation control purposes. Accurate prediction of wave run-up is essential for coastal hazard assessment and management, yet existing empirical models often fail to account for the dynamic influence of berm morphology. This study introduces a new empirical formula for wave run-up that solves the current wave run-up empirical formula can not adequately consider the instantaneous changes in the berm (including width, elevation, and onshore slope). Using field measurements from sandy beaches in Haikou, China, combined with numerical simulations (XBeach) and video-derived run-up data from a Coastal Shore-based Video Imagery Monitoring System (COSVIMS), we analyze run-up behavior on composite-profile beaches featuring a gentle berm and steep dune. Results demonstrate that berm geometry significantly attenuates run-up: a higher and wider berm reduces both vertical elevation and horizontal extent of run-up. The proposed model which including berm height (hB), berm platform length (LB), and the onshore slope of the berm ridge (βSon) outperforms established formulations across multiple international beach datasets, showing higher correlation and lower root-mean-square error (RMSE = 0.046) than old models. By capturing real-time feedback between berm evolution and run-up, this improved formula resolves the issue of asynchrony between hydrodynamics and run-up, thereby providing a robust basis for real-time calculations of wave-topography interactions.
本研究旨在促进目前对护堤在调节波浪上升动力学以达到高程控制目的中的作用的理解。海浪上升的准确预测对海岸灾害评估和管理至关重要,但现有的经验模型往往不能考虑到护堤形态的动态影响。本文提出了一种新的波浪爬高经验公式,解决了目前波浪爬高经验公式不能充分考虑护堤瞬时变化(包括宽度、高程、岸坡)的问题。利用海口市沙滩的野外测量数据,结合数值模拟(XBeach)和海岸岸基视频图像监测系统(COSVIMS)的视频衍生助跑数据,分析了具有平缓护堤和陡峭沙丘的复合剖面海滩的助跑行为。结果表明,护堤的几何形状显著地减弱了爬升:更高和更宽的护堤降低了爬升的垂直高度和水平程度。该模型包含了滩高(hB)、滩台长度(LB)和滩脊岸坡(βSon),在多个国际海滩数据集上优于现有的公式,具有更高的相关性和更低的均方根误差(RMSE = 0.046)。该改进公式通过捕获堤道演变和助跑之间的实时反馈,解决了水动力和助跑之间的不同步问题,从而为波浪-地形相互作用的实时计算提供了坚实的基础。
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引用次数: 0
Taphonomic signature of benthic foraminifera linked to methane release in the Barents Sea 与巴伦支海甲烷释放有关的底栖有孔虫的埋藏学特征
IF 2.2 3区 地球科学 Q2 GEOSCIENCES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Pub Date : 2025-12-09 DOI: 10.1016/j.margeo.2025.107693
Gabriella M. Boretto , Mathia Sabino , Fiorenza Torricella , Gianmarco Ingrosso , Alessio Nogarotto , Giuliana Panieri , Jens Hefter , Gesine Mollenhauer , Leonardo Langone , Silvia Giuliani , Tommaso Tesi , Lucilla Capotondi
This study investigates methane seepage dynamics over the past several centuries in the southwestern Barents Sea through an integrated analysis of foraminiferal taphonomy, stable carbon isotopes, and the lipid biomarkers glycerol dialkyl glycerol tetraethers (GDGT) based molecular biomarkers. We examined the preservation state of nine calcareous benthic foraminiferal species from sediment core HH1141, grouping test alterations into five taphonomic categories. These preservation patterns correlate with geochemical indicators of methane emissions, such as depleted δ13C values of carbonate tests and organic matter and elevated Methane Index (MI), allowing the identification of three stratigraphic units reflecting distinct seepage regimes. Along with this gradient, electron microscopy and microprobe analyses reveal widespread diagenetic overgrowths and mineral replacements linked to anaerobic oxidation of methane. Furthermore, species-specific responses highlight that Elphidium clavatum, Stainforthia feylingi, Stainforthia loeblichi and Cassidulina reniforme are more susceptible to alteration, while Melonis barleeanus shows remarkable resistance. The observed temporal variability in methane seepage is interpreted as the result of multifactorial environmental drivers, including changes in subsurface dynamics and bottom-water conditions. This multidisciplinary approach demonstrates the utility of foraminiferal taphonomy as a sensitive proxy for methane-rich environments and cold seep evolution, especially in polar regions undergoing rapid climatic and oceanographic change.
本研究通过综合分析有孔虫色谱、稳定碳同位素和脂质生物标志物甘油二烷基甘油四醚(GDGT)为基础的分子生物标志物,研究了巴伦支海西南部过去几个世纪的甲烷渗流动力学。我们研究了9种钙质底栖有孔虫的保存状态,将测试变化分为5个分类类别。这些保存模式与甲烷排放的地球化学指标相关,如碳酸盐测试和有机质的δ13C值下降和甲烷指数(MI)升高,从而识别出反映不同渗流机制的三个地层单元。随着这种梯度,电子显微镜和显微探针分析揭示了广泛的成岩过度生长和与甲烷厌氧氧化有关的矿物替代。此外,物种特异性反应表明,clavatum Elphidium、feylingi Stainforthia loeblichi和Cassidulina reniforme对变异更敏感,而Melonis barleeanus表现出显著的抗性。观测到的甲烷渗流的时间变化被解释为多因素环境驱动因素的结果,包括地下动力学和底部水条件的变化。这种多学科方法证明了有孔虫埋藏学作为富甲烷环境和冷渗演化的敏感代理的效用,特别是在经历快速气候和海洋变化的极地地区。
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引用次数: 0
Anthropogenic disturbances drive stepwise geomorphic changes of shoal-channel systems in a tide-dominated estuary 人为干扰驱动潮汐控制的河口滩-水道系统的逐步地貌变化
IF 2.2 3区 地球科学 Q2 GEOSCIENCES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Pub Date : 2025-12-08 DOI: 10.1016/j.margeo.2025.107694
Ping Zhang , Linxi Fu , Xiangyuan Li , Jianliang Lin , Huayang Cai , Zhijun Dai , Qingshu Yang
The shoal-channel system, a fundamental geomorphic feature in estuaries globally, plays a crucial role in ensuring navigational safety and sustaining estuarine-deltaic ecosystem services. However, in the Anthropocene, this system has undergone significant transformations, challenging its stability and functional integrity. To investigate these changes, we applied a Digital Elevation Model (DEM) and Morphological Shannon Entropy (MSE) to quantify the stepwise evolution of the shoal-channel system in the Shiziyang (SZY) Tidal Channel, a tide-dominated reach of the Pearl River Estuary (PRE). Our findings reveal that anthropogenic disturbances triggered a systematic eastward channel migration, progressive shoal expansion, and peak erosion of 2.37 × 106 m3/yr during Period III (1989–2000), exceeding concurrent deposition by 50 %. These changes culminated in a systemic reconfiguration from a V-shaped to a W-shaped channel profile. Sequential dredging emerged as the principal driver, accounting for a 17 m incision and contributing up to 68.45 % of the total scouring in Period III. Additional factors, including port construction (which reduced channel width by 20.39 %), diminished sediment flux (causing a 27.65 % decrease in depositional bank extent), and intensified hydrodynamics (reflected by a tidal range increase of 4.56 mm/yr), acted synergistically to amplify the regime shift. By elucidating the key drivers and consequences of this geomorphic evolution, our study provides critical insights for the sustainable management of heavily engineered coastal systems in the Anthropocene.
浅滩-河道系统是全球河口的基本地貌特征,在确保航行安全和维持河口-三角洲生态系统服务方面发挥着至关重要的作用。然而,在人类世,这一系统发生了重大转变,挑战了其稳定性和功能完整性。为了研究这些变化,我们应用数字高程模型(DEM)和形态香农熵(MSE)量化了珠江口(PRE)潮汐控制河段狮子洋(SZY)潮汐通道的滩-道系统的逐步演变。研究结果表明,在第三时期(1989-2000年),人为干扰引发了系统的河道东移、浅滩渐进扩张和2.37 × 106 m3/yr的峰值侵蚀,超过同期沉积的50%。这些变化最终导致了从v形到w形通道剖面的系统重构。顺序疏浚成为主要驱动力,占17 m切口,占第三阶段总冲刷量的68.45%。其他因素,包括港口建设(使河道宽度减少20.39%)、泥沙通量减少(使沉积岸面积减少27.65%)和水动力增强(潮汐差增加4.56 mm/年),协同作用放大了制度转变。通过阐明这种地貌演变的关键驱动因素和后果,我们的研究为人类世重度工程海岸系统的可持续管理提供了重要见解。
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引用次数: 0
The updated distribution of clay minerals in the World Ocean 世界海洋粘土矿物的最新分布
IF 2.2 3区 地球科学 Q2 GEOSCIENCES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Pub Date : 2025-12-08 DOI: 10.1016/j.margeo.2025.107695
Taylor R. Lee , Taylor Vander , Trilby Hill , Jeffrey Obelcz , Benjamin Phrampus , Jordan Graw
Clay mineral content in marine sediments is central to a wide variety of applications in the marine geosciences, including paleoclimate reconstruction and slope stability analyses. Most studies are not applicable to a global scale, focusing on single locations or regional areas. Additionally, dominant clay mineral data (kaolinite, illite, smectite, chlorite) are not curated for “big data” applications necessary to produce estimates on a global scale. Geospatial machine learning (GML) techniques have successfully produced global predictions of geological seafloor properties, such as sedimentation rate and total organic carbon. Here, we curate observed data of dominant clay mineral concentration for use in a GML algorithm to predict global surficial (< 1 m) seafloor estimates of relative clay mineral abundances. Our global seafloor clay mineral predictions are qualitatively similar to previous global estimates, but have more dynamic range and finer-scale spatial variation. Our results show that GML predictions are the best data-driven estimate (∼2-3× decrease in error) of clay mineral concentration where it has not been previously measured.

Plain language summary

Clay minerals in marine seafloor sediments are important to a variety of marine geology applications including reconstructing ancient climates and assessing slope instability hazards. Most of these studies publish sparse data that is limited to particular regions of the world. The inconsistent formatting of these data makes it difficult to utilize in a “big data” framework (e.g., machine learning applications). We harvest thousands of sparse clay mineral observations from a variety of different public sources including literature and repositories. We standardize these data in a manner compatible with machine learning efforts. We then utilize machine learning algorithms to estimate the global distribution of dominant clay minerals in shallow marine seafloor (< 1 m) sediments. Finally, we compare our predictions with previously published maps. Our predictions are descriptively similar, but statistically more accurate.
海洋沉积物中的粘土矿物含量在海洋地球科学中有着广泛的应用,包括古气候重建和边坡稳定性分析。大多数研究并不适用于全球范围,而是侧重于单个地点或区域。此外,主要的粘土矿物数据(高岭石、伊利石、蒙脱石、绿泥石)并没有为“大数据”应用进行整理,而产生全球范围内的估算是必要的。地理空间机器学习(GML)技术已经成功地产生了海底地质属性的全球预测,如沉积速率和总有机碳。在这里,我们整理了主要粘土矿物浓度的观测数据,用于GML算法来预测全球表面(< 1 m)海底相对粘土矿物丰度的估计。我们的全球海底粘土矿物预测在质量上与以前的全球估计相似,但具有更大的动态范围和更细尺度的空间变化。我们的研究结果表明,GML预测是以前没有测量过的粘土矿物浓度的最佳数据驱动估计(误差降低~ 2-3倍)。海洋海底沉积物中的粘土矿物对各种海洋地质应用非常重要,包括重建古代气候和评估边坡不稳定危险。大多数这些研究发表的稀疏数据仅限于世界上的特定地区。这些数据格式的不一致使得在“大数据”框架(例如,机器学习应用程序)中难以利用。我们从各种不同的公共资源(包括文献和存储库)中收获了数千个稀疏的粘土矿物观察结果。我们以一种与机器学习兼容的方式对这些数据进行标准化。然后,我们利用机器学习算法来估计浅海海底(< 1 m)沉积物中主要粘土矿物的全球分布。最后,我们将我们的预测与之前发表的地图进行比较。我们的预测在描述上是相似的,但在统计上更准确。
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引用次数: 0
Gran Roque Island partly submerged by a 2500-year-old tsunami, Los Roques Archipelago, Venezuela Leeward Antilles Islands 大罗克岛部分被2500年前的海啸淹没,委内瑞拉洛斯罗克群岛背风安的列斯群岛
IF 2.2 3区 地球科学 Q2 GEOSCIENCES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Pub Date : 2025-12-08 DOI: 10.1016/j.margeo.2025.107696
Franck A. Audemard M. , Carlos E. Reinoza Gómez , Jesús Rafael Padilla Vásquez , Melody Philippon , Gabriela Quintana Sánchez , Valerie Clouard , Jean Roger , Sirel Colón Useche , Alejandra Fabiola Leal Guzmán , José Alejandro Méndez Dot , Jean-Frédéric Lebrun
Gran Roque Island (GRI), as the most northeastern salient of the Los Roques Archipelago, has been affected by several extreme-wave events (EWEs), as is recorded by several coastal boulder deposits (CBDs). The particular shape of its windward elevated coast and of its rather simple geology made of 2-end components: on one hand Mesozoic meta-igneous mafic rocks, and on the other Holocene sedimentary environments of typical active carbonate reef systems, allow differentiating a foreshore-lying CBD built by frequent storm and hurricanes from an inland CBD, which was deposited by a much larger and unusual EWE (tsunami). The former CBD is the source of the latter one. The source of this tsunami-transported CBD is unequivocal and forms and accumulates in the seashore of the Mal Viento Bay, the only opening of GRI to the North. This latter singularity also allows proposing that this 2500 yr cal BP tsunami must have generated in the northeastern Caribbean, because of the narrow opening to the North of this bay. A tsunamigenic earthquake about that time seems to have impacted, at least: a) Saint Thomas (Virgin Islands), b) lagoon Guichard in Saint Martin, c) 3 localities along the Atlantic coast of Martinique and d) Gran Roque Island (GRI). This pre-Current Era event now appears to have several run-ups at different localities. In the case of GRI, it has entrained blocks of diabase as heavy as 8.5–9 tons (volume of 3 m3) over a foreshore top of 2.2 m above msl, requiring a flow depth of 8.2 m. In a more realistic estimation, if the largest block is approximated to a 1-m-diameter, 3-m-long cylinder (volume of 2.35 m3 and ≈ 7 tons), a 6.5 m tsunami wave may have been sufficient to transport it inland by rolling/saltation.
大罗克岛(GRI)作为洛斯罗克群岛最东北的突出部分,受到了几次极端波事件(ewe)的影响,这是几个海岸巨石沉积(CBDs)的记录。其迎风隆起海岸的特殊形状和由两部分组成的相当简单的地质构造:一方面是中生代变质火成岩基性岩,另一方面是全新世典型的活跃碳酸盐礁系统沉积环境,这使得它能够区分出一个由频繁的风暴和飓风形成的滨前CBD和一个由更大、更不寻常的海啸形成的内陆CBD。前者是后者的根源。这个由海啸带来的CBD的来源是明确的,它形成并积聚在Mal Viento海湾的海滨,这是GRI唯一向北开放的地方。后一个奇点也允许提出这个2500年前的海啸一定是在加勒比海东北部产生的,因为这个海湾的北部有一个狭窄的开口。大约在那个时候发生的海啸性地震似乎至少影响了:A)圣托马斯(维尔京群岛),b)圣马丁岛的吉查德泻湖,c)马提尼克岛大西洋沿岸的3个地方和d)格兰罗克岛(GRI)。这个前现代时代的事件现在似乎在不同的地方有几个运行。在GRI的情况下,它携带重达8.5-9吨(体积为3立方米)的辉绿岩块在msl以上2.2米的前海岸顶部,需要8.2米的水流深度。在更现实的估计中,如果最大的块体近似为直径1米、长3米的圆柱体(体积为2.35立方米,≈7吨),则6.5米的海啸波可能足以通过滚动/跳跃将其运送到内陆。
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引用次数: 0
Morphodynamics of a composite barrier system, Westward Ho!, North Devon, UK 一个复合势垒系统的形态动力学,向西Ho!,北德文郡,英国
IF 2.2 3区 地球科学 Q2 GEOSCIENCES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Pub Date : 2025-11-26 DOI: 10.1016/j.margeo.2025.107684
C.L. Rimmer, G. Masselink, M. Wiggins, L. Biermann
Understanding and predicting the morphodynamic evolution of gravel barrier systems is essential for coastal management, as these features provide natural protection for infrastructure and ecosystems. This study uses the composite gravel barrier system of Westward Ho!, south west England, characterised by a sandy intertidal region and a gravel high tide ridge, to quantify the morphological behaviour of this barrier system and link the dynamics to the external forcing, notably sea-level rise and waves. Since 1887, the barrier has retreated by 97 m, with an average retreat rate of 0.71 m yr−1. Over the period 2007–2024, the system lost approximately 216,000 m3 of sediment, equivalent to 3.6 m3 m−1 yr−1. It is suggested that most of this material was transported to a beach-dune system north of the barrier, across an estuary. Over the past two decades, the retreat rate of the southern section has slowed to 0.18 m yr−1, while the retreat rate of the northern section has increased to 2.39 m yr−1. This suggests segmentation is occurring, with the southern end becoming swash-aligned and the northern end drift-aligned. Morphological changes did not strongly correlate with SLR or wave power (cross-shore or longshore). The low-tide shoreline appears near equilibrium with prevailing wave direction, but the gravel ridge is slightly misaligned, suggesting net northward sediment transport. Given current trends, the barrier is expected to continue retreating and losing sediment for several decades. However, a comprehensive understanding of the system's future behaviour requires development of a mixed-sediment morphodynamic model.
了解和预测砾石屏障系统的形态动力学演化对海岸管理至关重要,因为这些特征为基础设施和生态系统提供了自然保护。本研究采用西禾组复合砾石屏障体系。以沙质潮间带和砾石涨潮脊为特征的英格兰西南部,量化该屏障系统的形态行为,并将动力学与外部强迫联系起来,特别是海平面上升和海浪。自1887年以来,该屏障后退了97米,平均后退速度为0.71米/年。在2007-2024年期间,该系统损失了大约216000立方米的沉积物,相当于3.6立方米m−1年−1年。据推测,大部分这些物质被运输到屏障北部的海滩-沙丘系统,穿过河口。近20年来,南段退缩速度已减缓至0.18 m yr - 1,而北段退缩速度已增加至2.39 m yr - 1。这表明分割正在发生,南端变成斜向,北端变成漂向。形态变化与单反或波浪功率(跨岸或长岸)没有很强的相关性。低潮岸线与盛行波方向接近平衡,但砾石脊稍有错位,表明泥沙向北净输运。鉴于目前的趋势,预计在未来几十年里,这一屏障将继续后退并失去沉积物。然而,要全面了解该系统的未来行为,需要开发混合沉积物形态动力学模型。
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引用次数: 0
Decadal shoreline variability in urban beaches: Contributions from structural changes, storms, and nourishments to tipping points 城市海滩的年代际海岸线变化:结构变化、风暴和营养对临界点的贡献
IF 2.2 3区 地球科学 Q2 GEOSCIENCES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Pub Date : 2025-11-25 DOI: 10.1016/j.margeo.2025.107683
J. Guillén, G. Simarro
The beaches of Barcelona are sediment-starved, heavily engineered, and subject to frequent human interventions. Over two decades of daily shoreline data obtained through video monitoring have yielded a comprehensive dataset, which is analysed to evaluate decadal shoreline dynamics, anthropogenic influences, and interactions with wave forcing across multiple urban beaches. Despite an overall erosive trend, shoreline retreat has been intermittently counteracted by periodic sand nourishments and the construction of coastal protection structures. A statistical definition of equilibrium shoreline position is introduced based on the frequency distribution of shoreline locations and potential drivers of abrupt shifts (“tipping points”) in shoreline behavior are identified. The analysis includes assessments of post-nourishment retreat rates and explores correlations between shoreline change and storm wave energy. While individual beach responses exhibit moderate correlation with wave energy, this relationship becomes more robust when data are aggregated over longer temporal windows or spatially across all beaches, highlighting the relevance of local controls. These findings provide a valuable first-order framework for anticipating shoreline behavior in urban beach settings and inform future coastal management strategies, although further refinement through advanced morphodynamic modeling is recommended to enhance predictive accuracy.
巴塞罗那的海滩缺乏沉积物,经过大量的工程设计,经常受到人类的干预。通过视频监测获得的20多年的每日海岸线数据产生了一个全面的数据集,分析该数据集以评估年代际海岸线动态,人为影响以及与多个城市海滩波浪强迫的相互作用。尽管总体上有侵蚀趋势,但海岸线的退缩已经被周期性的沙质滋养和海岸保护结构的建设间歇性地抵消了。基于岸线位置的频率分布,引入了平衡岸线位置的统计定义,并确定了岸线行为突变(“引爆点”)的潜在驱动因素。分析包括对营养后退缩率的评估,并探索海岸线变化与风暴波能量之间的相关性。虽然个别海滩的反应与波浪能量表现出适度的相关性,但当数据在较长的时间窗口或在所有海滩的空间上汇总时,这种关系变得更加强大,突出了局部控制的相关性。这些发现为预测城市海滩环境中的海岸线行为提供了一个有价值的一级框架,并为未来的海岸管理策略提供了信息,尽管建议通过先进的形态动力学建模进一步改进以提高预测准确性。
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引用次数: 0
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Marine Geology
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