Pub Date : 2019-05-27DOI: 10.1142/9789811204487_0178
Ondoa Gregoire Abessolo, M. Larson, R. Almar, B. Castelle, E. Anthony, J. Reyns
The Bight of Benin coast is marked by the presence of three deepwater harbours which have affected the stability of the shoreline. In addition, several studies pointed out the overall diminution of sand supply due to the dams on Volta river channel and climate change effects. The combination of all these factors leads to a mixture of natural and artificial components affecting the coastline evolution in regional and long term scales. Here, we modeled the shoreline in the Bight of Benin, using the CASCADE model. The results show that the overall shape is well maintained and shoreline changes pretty well reconstructed. But, unresolved detailed information did not allowed to consider cross-shore sediment exchange and local deviations can be observed. However, the CASCADE model can be used to investigate regional and long term solutions for decisions-makers in the concerned countries.
{"title":"MODELING REGIONAL COASTAL EVOLUTION IN THE BIGHT OF BENIN, GULF OF GUINEA, WEST AFRICA","authors":"Ondoa Gregoire Abessolo, M. Larson, R. Almar, B. Castelle, E. Anthony, J. Reyns","doi":"10.1142/9789811204487_0178","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1142/9789811204487_0178","url":null,"abstract":"The Bight of Benin coast is marked by the presence of three deepwater harbours which have affected the stability of the shoreline. In addition, several studies pointed out the overall diminution of sand supply due to the dams on Volta river channel and climate change effects. The combination of all these factors leads to a mixture of natural and artificial components affecting the coastline evolution in regional and long term scales. Here, we modeled the shoreline in the Bight of Benin, using the CASCADE model. The results show that the overall shape is well maintained and shoreline changes pretty well reconstructed. But, unresolved detailed information did not allowed to consider cross-shore sediment exchange and local deviations can be observed. However, the CASCADE model can be used to investigate regional and long term solutions for decisions-makers in the concerned countries.","PeriodicalId":254775,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Sediments 2019","volume":"13 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-05-27","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"125355691","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2019-05-27DOI: 10.1142/9789811204487_0055
Jennifer Montaño, G. Coco, J. Antolínez, Tomas Beuzen, K. Bryan, L. Cagigal, B. Castelle, M. Davidson, E. Goldstein, Rai Ibaceta Vega, D. Idier, B. Ludka, S. Ansari, F. Méndez, B. Murray, N. Plant, A. Robinet, A. Rueda, N. Sénéchal, Joshua A. Simmons, Kristen D. Splinter, S. Stephens, I. Townend, S. Vitousek, Kilian Vos
Predictions of shoreline change are of great societal importance, but models tend to be tested and tuned for the specific site of interest. To overcome this issue and test the ability of numerical models to simulate shoreline change over the medium scale (order of years) we have organized a non-competitive competition where participants were given data to train their model (1999-2014) and data to predict seasonal to inter-annual future changes (2014-2017). Participants were shown the observed shoreline changes only after submission of their modelling results. Overall, 19 numerical models were tested, the vast majority falling in the broad categories of "hybrid models" or "machine learning". Models were able to reproduce the mean characteristics of shoreline change but often failed to reproduce the observed rapid changes induced by storms.
{"title":"SHORECASTS: A BLIND-TEST OF SHORELINE MODELS","authors":"Jennifer Montaño, G. Coco, J. Antolínez, Tomas Beuzen, K. Bryan, L. Cagigal, B. Castelle, M. Davidson, E. Goldstein, Rai Ibaceta Vega, D. Idier, B. Ludka, S. Ansari, F. Méndez, B. Murray, N. Plant, A. Robinet, A. Rueda, N. Sénéchal, Joshua A. Simmons, Kristen D. Splinter, S. Stephens, I. Townend, S. Vitousek, Kilian Vos","doi":"10.1142/9789811204487_0055","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1142/9789811204487_0055","url":null,"abstract":"Predictions of shoreline change are of great societal importance, but models tend to be tested and tuned for the specific site of interest. To overcome this issue and test the ability of numerical models to simulate shoreline change over the medium scale (order of years) we have organized a non-competitive competition where participants were given data to train their model (1999-2014) and data to predict seasonal to inter-annual future changes (2014-2017). Participants were shown the observed shoreline changes only after submission of their modelling results. Overall, 19 numerical models were tested, the vast majority falling in the broad categories of \"hybrid models\" or \"machine learning\". Models were able to reproduce the mean characteristics of shoreline change but often failed to reproduce the observed rapid changes induced by storms.","PeriodicalId":254775,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Sediments 2019","volume":"23 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-05-27","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"127167636","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2019-05-26DOI: 10.1142/9789811204487_0258
L. Amoudry, A. Payo, A. Plater, M. Solan, R. McCarroll, I. Möller, T. Spencer, C. Thompson, Jennifer M. Brown, S. Brooks, A. Barkwith, G. Coco, N. Leonardi, M. Ellis, M. Wegen, J. Godbold, D. Paterson, E. Lazarus, R. Whitehouse, A. Souza
Poorly constrained uncertainties limit the prediction of medium to long-term regional sediment budgets and morphological change, and thus hinder coastal management decision-making. We present a multi-disciplinary approach that aims to address this challenge and is implemented in the BLUEcoast project. The approach brings together scientists and coastal stakeholders across a range of scientific disciplines. Quantifying all processes at all scales is not feasible and our approach uses targeted representative case studies, which are carefully selected to allow subsequent upscaling and ensure transferability. We illustrate this approach with specific examples from the BLUEcoast consortium.
{"title":"COMBINED EFFECTS OF PHYSICAL AND BIOLOGICAL PROCESSES ON COASTAL DYNAMICS AND RECOVERY: THE BLUECOAST PROJECT APPROACH","authors":"L. Amoudry, A. Payo, A. Plater, M. Solan, R. McCarroll, I. Möller, T. Spencer, C. Thompson, Jennifer M. Brown, S. Brooks, A. Barkwith, G. Coco, N. Leonardi, M. Ellis, M. Wegen, J. Godbold, D. Paterson, E. Lazarus, R. Whitehouse, A. Souza","doi":"10.1142/9789811204487_0258","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1142/9789811204487_0258","url":null,"abstract":"Poorly constrained uncertainties limit the prediction of medium to long-term regional sediment budgets and morphological change, and thus hinder coastal management decision-making. We present a multi-disciplinary approach that aims to address this challenge and is implemented in the BLUEcoast project. The approach brings together scientists and coastal stakeholders across a range of scientific disciplines. Quantifying all processes at all scales is not feasible and our approach uses targeted representative case studies, which are carefully selected to allow subsequent upscaling and ensure transferability. We illustrate this approach with specific examples from the BLUEcoast consortium.","PeriodicalId":254775,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Sediments 2019","volume":"18 3","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-05-26","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"120843317","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2019-05-16DOI: 10.1142/9789811204487_0183
B. Grasmeijer, L. C. Rijn, J. V. D. Werf, F. Zijl, B. Huisman, A. Luijendijk, R. Wilmink, A. D. Looff
{"title":"METHOD FOR CALCULATING ANNUAL SAND TRANSPORTS ON THE DUTCH LOWER SHOREFACE TO ASSESS THE OFFSHORE BOUNDARY OF THE DUTCH COASTAL FOUNDATION","authors":"B. Grasmeijer, L. C. Rijn, J. V. D. Werf, F. Zijl, B. Huisman, A. Luijendijk, R. Wilmink, A. D. Looff","doi":"10.1142/9789811204487_0183","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1142/9789811204487_0183","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":254775,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Sediments 2019","volume":"178 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-05-16","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"116100166","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2019-05-16DOI: 10.1142/9789811204487_0170
C. M. Nederhoff, R. Schrijvershof, P. K. Tonnon, J. V. D. Werf, E. Elias
{"title":"MODELLING HYDRODYNAMICS IN THE AMELAND INLET AS A BASIS FOR STUDYING SAND TRANSPORT","authors":"C. M. Nederhoff, R. Schrijvershof, P. K. Tonnon, J. V. D. Werf, E. Elias","doi":"10.1142/9789811204487_0170","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1142/9789811204487_0170","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":254775,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Sediments 2019","volume":"2009 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-05-16","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"125634537","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2019-05-16DOI: 10.1142/9789811204487_0083
A. Pomeroy, C. Storlazzi, K. Rosenberger, G. Hatcher, J. Warrick
{"title":"INTEGRATING STRUCTURE FROM MOTION, NUMERICAL MODELLING AND FIELD MEASUREMENTS TO UNDERSTAND CARBONATE SEDIMENT TRANSPORT IN CORAL REEF CANOPIES","authors":"A. Pomeroy, C. Storlazzi, K. Rosenberger, G. Hatcher, J. Warrick","doi":"10.1142/9789811204487_0083","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1142/9789811204487_0083","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":254775,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Sediments 2019","volume":"19 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-05-16","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"126073257","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2019-05-16DOI: 10.1142/9789811204487_0110
Filipe Galiforni Silva, K. Wijnberg, A. V. Groot, S. Hulscher
A cellular automata model is used to evaluate the impact of shoal attachment processes on dune growth. We explore ten different idealized scenarios of beach width changes due to shoal attachment related to the magnitude of the shoal-driven beach width increase and the rate of dispersion alongshore. For all scenarios, shoals attach the coast with a cyclic period of 15 years in an average beach width of 100 meters. Simulations were carried out for a model time of 90 years. Results show that in only three scenarios, shoal attachment yielded a significant increase in dune growth. Scenarios that significantly changed dune growth presented the slowest rate of spreading and the three largest beach width increase tested. This suggests that local change in dune growth due to shoal attachment are closely related to the shoal capacity of significantly increasing beach width and the longshore capacity of sediment transport.
{"title":"MODELLING THE EFFECTS OF SHOAL ATTACHMENT ON DUNE GROWTH","authors":"Filipe Galiforni Silva, K. Wijnberg, A. V. Groot, S. Hulscher","doi":"10.1142/9789811204487_0110","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1142/9789811204487_0110","url":null,"abstract":"A cellular automata model is used to evaluate the impact of shoal attachment processes on dune growth. We explore ten different idealized scenarios of beach width changes due to shoal attachment related to the magnitude of the shoal-driven beach width increase and the rate of dispersion alongshore. For all scenarios, shoals attach the coast with a cyclic period of 15 years in an average beach width of 100 meters. Simulations were carried out for a model time of 90 years. Results show that in only three scenarios, shoal attachment yielded a significant increase in dune growth. Scenarios that significantly changed dune growth presented the slowest rate of spreading and the three largest beach width increase tested. This suggests that local change in dune growth due to shoal attachment are closely related to the shoal capacity of significantly increasing beach width and the longshore capacity of sediment transport.","PeriodicalId":254775,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Sediments 2019","volume":"8 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-05-16","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"125537323","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2019-05-16DOI: 10.1142/9789811204487_0070
J. V. D. Werf, F. Staudt, D. Posanski, W. Van de Wardt, J. Zanden, B. Vermeulen, J. Ribberink, S. Schimmels
This paper presents new net transport data from the STENCIL full-scale wave flume experiments with a sediment mix of a fine (0.21 mm) and a coarse (0.58 mm) sand fraction. These and existing mixed sand transport data from full-scale oscillatory flow tunnel experiments were used to validate the SANTOSS practical sand transport formula, which includes size-selective transport mechanisms and hiding and exposure effects. The STENCIL data show a strong effect of the sediment mix on the bed form regime and net transport rates. The SANTOSS formula predicts the flow tunnel net sand transport data well, and does a reasonable job in reproducing the net sand transport per fraction in the mix. The new STENCIL net transport data are generally underpredicted. In further research the SANTOSS formula will be further tested and improved using more detailed STENCIL data of flow and sand transport processes.
{"title":"UNDERSTANDING AND MODELLING WAVE-DRIVEN MIXED SAND TRANSPORT","authors":"J. V. D. Werf, F. Staudt, D. Posanski, W. Van de Wardt, J. Zanden, B. Vermeulen, J. Ribberink, S. Schimmels","doi":"10.1142/9789811204487_0070","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1142/9789811204487_0070","url":null,"abstract":"This paper presents new net transport data from the STENCIL full-scale wave flume experiments with a sediment mix of a fine (0.21 mm) and a coarse (0.58 mm) sand fraction. These and existing mixed sand transport data from full-scale oscillatory flow tunnel experiments were used to validate the SANTOSS practical sand transport formula, which includes size-selective transport mechanisms and hiding and exposure effects. The STENCIL data show a strong effect of the sediment mix on the bed form regime and net transport rates. The SANTOSS formula predicts the flow tunnel net sand transport data well, and does a reasonable job in reproducing the net sand transport per fraction in the mix. The new STENCIL net transport data are generally underpredicted. In further research the SANTOSS formula will be further tested and improved using more detailed STENCIL data of flow and sand transport processes.","PeriodicalId":254775,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Sediments 2019","volume":"101 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-05-16","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"116364589","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2019-05-16DOI: 10.1142/9789811204487_0013
K. Reef, P. Roos, T. Andringa, A. Dastgheib, S. Hulscher
Storms can have a devastating impact on barrier coasts and provide a mechanism for inlet creation. We found that if a storm-induced breach is opened in a barrier coast that is in equilibrium; the other pre-storm inlets will become smaller due to interaction between the inlets and the total cross-sectional area remaining approximately the same. To study the morphodynamic effects of storm induced breaches on the long-term evolution of barrier coasts, we built a stochastic shell around an existing barrier coast model, allowing us to perform a Monte Carlo simulation.
{"title":"THE EFFECT OF STOCHASTICALLY SIMULATED STORM-INDUCED BREACHES ON THE LONG-TERM MORPHOLOGICAL EVOLUTION OF BARRIER COASTS","authors":"K. Reef, P. Roos, T. Andringa, A. Dastgheib, S. Hulscher","doi":"10.1142/9789811204487_0013","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1142/9789811204487_0013","url":null,"abstract":"Storms can have a devastating impact on barrier coasts and provide a mechanism for inlet creation. We found that if a storm-induced breach is opened in a barrier coast that is in equilibrium; the other pre-storm inlets will become smaller due to interaction between the inlets and the total cross-sectional area remaining approximately the same. To study the morphodynamic effects of storm induced breaches on the long-term evolution of barrier coasts, we built a stochastic shell around an existing barrier coast model, allowing us to perform a Monte Carlo simulation.","PeriodicalId":254775,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Sediments 2019","volume":"28 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-05-16","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"123543765","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2019-05-16DOI: 10.1142/9789811204487_0085
K. Rosenberger, C. Storlazzi, A. Pomeroy, O. Cheriton, Ryan J. Lowe, J. Hansen
{"title":"SPATIAL AND TEMPORAL VARIABILITY IN RIPPLE FORMATION AND MIGRATION ACROSS A CORAL REEF FLAT AND LAGOON","authors":"K. Rosenberger, C. Storlazzi, A. Pomeroy, O. Cheriton, Ryan J. Lowe, J. Hansen","doi":"10.1142/9789811204487_0085","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1142/9789811204487_0085","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":254775,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Sediments 2019","volume":"31 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-05-16","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"132477844","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
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