Pub Date : 2019-05-01DOI: 10.1142/9789811204487_0103
S. Brooks, T. Spencer
Cliffs composed of glacial and pre-glacial sediments typify long stretches of the coastline of East Anglia, UK. This paper assesses both long-term and short term retreat as it can be extremely rapid. Long-term average annual cliff retreat is typically 2 - 5 m a-1 where cliffs have no protection from storm energetics. However, in single events retreat can be 3 – 4 times this long-term average. Individual storms deliver short term shocks to both the cliff and the beach system which can have serious socio-economic consequences, particularly significant in areas of critical coastal infrastructure. In this paper we look at two such recent events, the 5 December 2013 North Sea storm surge and the February – March 2018 “beast from the east” and “mini beast”. Each of these events left a large shoreline footprint, but each arose from different underpinning meteorological scenarios. Lessons can be learnt for future management planning.
{"title":"LONG-TERM TRENDS, SHORT-TERM SHOCKS AND CLIFF RESPONSES FOR AREAS OF CRITICAL COASTAL INFRASTRUCTURE","authors":"S. Brooks, T. Spencer","doi":"10.1142/9789811204487_0103","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1142/9789811204487_0103","url":null,"abstract":"Cliffs composed of glacial and pre-glacial sediments typify long stretches of the coastline of East Anglia, UK. This paper assesses both long-term and short term retreat as it can be extremely rapid. Long-term average annual cliff retreat is typically 2 - 5 m a-1 where cliffs have no protection from storm energetics. However, in single events retreat can be 3 – 4 times this long-term average. Individual storms deliver short term shocks to both the cliff and the beach system which can have serious socio-economic consequences, particularly significant in areas of critical coastal infrastructure. In this paper we look at two such recent events, the 5 December 2013 North Sea storm surge and the February – March 2018 “beast from the east” and “mini beast”. Each of these events left a large shoreline footprint, but each arose from different underpinning meteorological scenarios. Lessons can be learnt for future management planning.","PeriodicalId":254775,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Sediments 2019","volume":"6 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-05-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"131300974","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2019-05-01DOI: 10.1142/9789811204487_0114
Y. Kuriyama, Shin-ichi Yanagishima, M. Banno
{"title":"MEDIUM-TERM MORPHOLOGICAL CHANGE IN THE BACKSHORE","authors":"Y. Kuriyama, Shin-ichi Yanagishima, M. Banno","doi":"10.1142/9789811204487_0114","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1142/9789811204487_0114","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":254775,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Sediments 2019","volume":"195 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-05-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"115488415","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2019-05-01DOI: 10.1142/9789811204487_0062
Jesús Adrián Vidal-Ruiz, A. R. D. Alegría-Arzaburu
{"title":"SHORELINE VARIABILITY RELATED TO SANDBAR MORPHOMETRICS ON A SINGLE-BARRED BEACH IN NW BAJA CALIFORNIA","authors":"Jesús Adrián Vidal-Ruiz, A. R. D. Alegría-Arzaburu","doi":"10.1142/9789811204487_0062","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1142/9789811204487_0062","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":254775,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Sediments 2019","volume":"76 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-05-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"116419006","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2019-05-01DOI: 10.1142/9789811204487_0056
T. Murray, D. Strauss, G. V. D. Silva, Courtney Wharton
Regular, high spatial resolution survey datasets from dune to depth of closure are rare in the literature. These type of datasets have the ability to provide critical information about changing beach morphodynamics in both the two and three-dimensional space. A regional experiment was established for the open ocean beaches of the Gold Coast, Australia. Two years of high spatial frequency survey at five sites within the Gold Coast embayment are presented here. This paper details the usefulness of the unique dataset and its ability to further inform previously poorly understood coastal morphodynamic questions, such as bar migration and spatial variability in beach state energy with respect to wave direction. By comparing the spatial variability in beach morphology between the survey sites, under two different wave directions, it is shown that the wave direction and attenuation play an important a role in shaping bar morphology along the coast.
{"title":"SPATIAL VARIABILITY IN BEACH MORPHOLOGY WITH RESPECT TO WAVE EXPOSURE ALONG A ZETA-SHAPED COASTLINE","authors":"T. Murray, D. Strauss, G. V. D. Silva, Courtney Wharton","doi":"10.1142/9789811204487_0056","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1142/9789811204487_0056","url":null,"abstract":"Regular, high spatial resolution survey datasets from dune to depth of closure are rare in the literature. These type of datasets have the ability to provide critical information about changing beach morphodynamics in both the two and three-dimensional space. A regional experiment was established for the open ocean beaches of the Gold Coast, Australia. Two years of high spatial frequency survey at five sites within the Gold Coast embayment are presented here. This paper details the usefulness of the unique dataset and its ability to further inform previously poorly understood coastal morphodynamic questions, such as bar migration and spatial variability in beach state energy with respect to wave direction. By comparing the spatial variability in beach morphology between the survey sites, under two different wave directions, it is shown that the wave direction and attenuation play an important a role in shaping bar morphology along the coast.","PeriodicalId":254775,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Sediments 2019","volume":"55 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-05-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"123616948","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2019-05-01DOI: 10.1142/9789811204487_0147
A. Rey, R. Mulligan, D. Corbett, H. Wadman
Storms such as hurricanes generate large storm surges and surface waves in typically low-energy estuarine environments. This enhances sediment transport and affects morphology, impacting navigation and aquatic vegetation. To better understand and predict these impacts, a numerical model corresponding to a 20 km long section of Currituck Sound, a narrow back-barrier estuary in North Carolina, was implemented with a 25 m resolution using Delft3D-SWAN for two 2016 tropical cyclones. Model results compare well with observations from instrumented platforms for both waves and water levels, and the simulated bed shear stress qualitatively matched observed trends in turbidity with considerable spatiotemporal variation. Satellite observations of red and infrared reflectance indicate considerable differences in total suspended matter between the two storms despite similar peak wind speeds. These preliminary results indicate detailed in situ observations and high resolution coupled numerical models can be used to quantify estuarine sediment transport during cyclonic storms.
{"title":"NUMERICAL MODELLING OF STORM-DRIVEN SEDIMENT TRANSPORT IN CURRITUCK SOUND, NC","authors":"A. Rey, R. Mulligan, D. Corbett, H. Wadman","doi":"10.1142/9789811204487_0147","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1142/9789811204487_0147","url":null,"abstract":"Storms such as hurricanes generate large storm surges and surface waves in typically low-energy estuarine environments. This enhances sediment transport and affects morphology, impacting navigation and aquatic vegetation. To better understand and predict these impacts, a numerical model corresponding to a 20 km long section of Currituck Sound, a narrow back-barrier estuary in North Carolina, was implemented with a 25 m resolution using Delft3D-SWAN for two 2016 tropical cyclones. Model results compare well with observations from instrumented platforms for both waves and water levels, and the simulated bed shear stress qualitatively matched observed trends in turbidity with considerable spatiotemporal variation. Satellite observations of red and infrared reflectance indicate considerable differences in total suspended matter between the two storms despite similar peak wind speeds. These preliminary results indicate detailed in situ observations and high resolution coupled numerical models can be used to quantify estuarine sediment transport during cyclonic storms.","PeriodicalId":254775,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Sediments 2019","volume":"41 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-05-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"123683096","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2019-05-01DOI: 10.1142/9789811204487_0216
M. Gawehn, S. Vries, S. Aarninkhof
{"title":"DEPTH AND SURFACE CURRENT INVERSION ON THE FLY: A NEW VIDEO BASED APPROACH USING THE DYNAMIC MODE DECOMPOSITION","authors":"M. Gawehn, S. Vries, S. Aarninkhof","doi":"10.1142/9789811204487_0216","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1142/9789811204487_0216","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":254775,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Sediments 2019","volume":"3 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-05-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"117182280","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2019-05-01DOI: 10.1142/9789811204487_0088
M. Tuck, M. Ford, G. Masselink, P. Kench
{"title":"EXPLORING REEF ISLAND MORPHODYNAMICS: A PHYSICAL MODELLING METHODOLOGY","authors":"M. Tuck, M. Ford, G. Masselink, P. Kench","doi":"10.1142/9789811204487_0088","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1142/9789811204487_0088","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":254775,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Sediments 2019","volume":"29 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-05-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"124688987","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2019-05-01DOI: 10.1142/9789811204487_0219
Madeline Manning, N. Stark
{"title":"INVESTIGATING MOISTURE CONTENTS OF SANDY BEACHES IN THE CONTEXT OF A GEOTECHNICAL SITE CHARACTERIZATION","authors":"Madeline Manning, N. Stark","doi":"10.1142/9789811204487_0219","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1142/9789811204487_0219","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":254775,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Sediments 2019","volume":"88 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-05-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"128358205","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2019-05-01DOI: 10.1142/9789811204487_0011
J. Pollard, S. Brooks, T. Spencer, Elizabeth K. Christie, I. Moeller
‘Barrier island’ refers to a diverse collection of coastal landforms that often support substantial human populations, critical infrastructures, and ecosystems. Globally, many coastal barriers are experiencing climatically altered environmental forcing coupled with increasing anthropogenic pressures. This paper undertakes high resolution shoreline change analysis to reveal how Blakeney Point, a mixed sandy-gravel barrier located on the UK’s East Coast, has evolved over centennial, decadal and event timescales. We seek to establish the implications of barrier evolution, under contrasting management regimes, for present erosion and flooding hazards. Interrogating a series of alternative shoreline proxies reveals a series of interdependent behaviors. Over the 130-year period of study, Blakeney Point is shown to be rolling landward at a mean rate of 0.60 m a-1. Assuming continued landward retreat over the coming decades, future flood-generating storm events will encounter more landward shoreline positions than today. Superimposed on this trend, we observe the presence of alongshore migrating erosional hotspots which give rise to unpredictable morphologies at any given location on the spit. Finally, we find that instances of barrier setback are driven by individual storm events, which makes barrier retreat both highly variable and discontinuous in time and space. This is illustrated by the presence of overwash, particularly along stretches of the barrier that have experienced a recent shift in management regime towards a non-interventionist approach.
“堰洲岛”指的是各种海岸地貌的集合，这些地貌通常支持大量人口、关键基础设施和生态系统。在全球范围内，许多沿海屏障正在经历气候变化的环境强迫，加上不断增加的人为压力。本文进行了高分辨率的海岸线变化分析，以揭示Blakeney Point是如何在百年，十年和事件时间尺度上演变的，Blakeney Point是位于英国东海岸的混合沙砾屏障。我们试图建立屏障演变的影响，在对比管理制度下，目前的侵蚀和洪水灾害。询问一系列替代的海岸线代理，揭示了一系列相互依赖的行为。在130年的研究期间，Blakeney Point以平均0.60 m a-1的速度向陆地滚动。假设未来几十年继续向陆地撤退，未来产生洪水的风暴事件将遇到比今天更多的向陆地的海岸线位置。在这一趋势的叠加下，我们观察到沿岸迁移侵蚀热点的存在，这些热点在沙嘴上的任何给定位置都会产生不可预测的形态。最后，我们发现障壁后退的实例是由个别风暴事件驱动的，这使得障壁后退在时间和空间上具有高度的可变性和不连续性。溢流现象的存在说明了这一点，特别是在最近管理制度转向不干预做法的隔离墙沿线。
{"title":"WILL NATURE WORK WITH US? EROSION AND FLOODING IMPACTS ON A UK BARRIER","authors":"J. Pollard, S. Brooks, T. Spencer, Elizabeth K. Christie, I. Moeller","doi":"10.1142/9789811204487_0011","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1142/9789811204487_0011","url":null,"abstract":"‘Barrier island’ refers to a diverse collection of coastal landforms that often support substantial human populations, critical infrastructures, and ecosystems. Globally, many coastal barriers are experiencing climatically altered environmental forcing coupled with increasing anthropogenic pressures. This paper undertakes high resolution shoreline change analysis to reveal how Blakeney Point, a mixed sandy-gravel barrier located on the UK’s East Coast, has evolved over centennial, decadal and event timescales. We seek to establish the implications of barrier evolution, under contrasting management regimes, for present erosion and flooding hazards. Interrogating a series of alternative shoreline proxies reveals a series of interdependent behaviors. Over the 130-year period of study, Blakeney Point is shown to be rolling landward at a mean rate of 0.60 m a-1. Assuming continued landward retreat over the coming decades, future flood-generating storm events will encounter more landward shoreline positions than today. Superimposed on this trend, we observe the presence of alongshore migrating erosional hotspots which give rise to unpredictable morphologies at any given location on the spit. Finally, we find that instances of barrier setback are driven by individual storm events, which makes barrier retreat both highly variable and discontinuous in time and space. This is illustrated by the presence of overwash, particularly along stretches of the barrier that have experienced a recent shift in management regime towards a non-interventionist approach.","PeriodicalId":254775,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Sediments 2019","volume":"43 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-05-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"127542445","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2019-05-01DOI: 10.1142/9789811204487_0213
Clemence Ingouf, F. Jourdin, C. Daly, L. Almeida, Guillaume Detantd, R. Almar
{"title":"DUAL FREQUENCY ACOUSTIC MEASUREMENTS OF TURBULENCE AND SEDIMENTARY FLOWS","authors":"Clemence Ingouf, F. Jourdin, C. Daly, L. Almeida, Guillaume Detantd, R. Almar","doi":"10.1142/9789811204487_0213","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1142/9789811204487_0213","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":254775,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Sediments 2019","volume":"42 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-05-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"127170348","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
京公网安备 11010802042870号
京ICP备2023020795号-1
扫码关注我们
求助内容：
应助结果提醒方式：