This article explores open-source visualization tools to enhance the understanding of small- and medium-enterprise (SME) ecosystem structures. Ecosystem approaches are becoming important in business strategy and innovation where organizations are heavily relying on inter-firm resources to innovate. Consequently, the traditional firm-focused business models face challenges, making it difficult for interconnected and diverse actors to co-create across firm boundaries. This challenge is even worse for manufacturing SMEs, who often lack the tools to make sense of their innovation ecosystem structures. We carried out a rich ethnographic investigation in three cases in the United Kingdom: the ceramic artist ecosystem, the 3D printing bureau ecosystem and the FabLab ecosystem. From the initial thematic analysis results, all actors highlighted the difficulty in understanding ecosystem networks. The following ecosystem attributes were identified as essential in understanding SME ecosystem structures: clusters and bridges, tie size, structural holes, role structure and interactivity. In this article, fourteen open-source visualization tools are tested to compare how well different tools reveal the six ecosystem attributes. Our findings demonstrate that open-source visualization tools have different affordances, most of which are useful in revealing ecosystem attributes. Results show that most visualization tools help aid the understanding of SME ecosystem structures. This study contributes new knowledge on the scarce subject of designing and managing ecosystems, presenting a unique approach to explore and understand ecosystem configurations. The study identifies limitations in open-source visualization tools and offers the design management community a set of recommendations for further development of visualization tools to support decision-making.
{"title":"Testing open-source visualization tools with small- and medium-sized enterprises ecosystem data: Towards the understanding of innovation ecosystem design","authors":"B. Nthubu, Daniel Richards, L. Cruickshank","doi":"10.1386/dbs_00026_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/dbs_00026_1","url":null,"abstract":"This article explores open-source visualization tools to enhance the understanding of small- and medium-enterprise (SME) ecosystem structures. Ecosystem approaches are becoming important in business strategy and innovation where organizations are heavily relying on inter-firm resources to innovate. Consequently, the traditional firm-focused business models face challenges, making it difficult for interconnected and diverse actors to co-create across firm boundaries. This challenge is even worse for manufacturing SMEs, who often lack the tools to make sense of their innovation ecosystem structures. We carried out a rich ethnographic investigation in three cases in the United Kingdom: the ceramic artist ecosystem, the 3D printing bureau ecosystem and the FabLab ecosystem. From the initial thematic analysis results, all actors highlighted the difficulty in understanding ecosystem networks. The following ecosystem attributes were identified as essential in understanding SME ecosystem structures: clusters and bridges, tie size, structural holes, role structure and interactivity. In this article, fourteen open-source visualization tools are tested to compare how well different tools reveal the six ecosystem attributes. Our findings demonstrate that open-source visualization tools have different affordances, most of which are useful in revealing ecosystem attributes. Results show that most visualization tools help aid the understanding of SME ecosystem structures. This study contributes new knowledge on the scarce subject of designing and managing ecosystems, presenting a unique approach to explore and understand ecosystem configurations. The study identifies limitations in open-source visualization tools and offers the design management community a set of recommendations for further development of visualization tools to support decision-making.","PeriodicalId":36715,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Design, Business and Society","volume":"15 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-10-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"87781921","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Contemporary engagement with fashion is with slick simulacra, daydreams and digital fantasies – an impossible promise of a beautiful, de-corporealized perfection. The virtualizing of fashion consumption has in turn dematerialized garments completely. Although late to the party, the consumer engagement with online luxury fashion has grown exponentially. Extremely expensive items are now purchased before they are engaged with physically. Therefore, within the new realities of device-based fashion design and consumption, the ‘wow’ factor and virtual considerations are paramount. There should be no surprise though that these garments align so closely with our taste, our consumption habits and our life patterns; they have been designed to do just that. In this research, through observation of a garment that was virtual before it became physical, the ascendant contemporary structure of modern fashion retail is analysed. This research explores how physical aspects of clothing have been devalued by the technology of modern capitalism, even as the importance of the ‘look’ has ascended. Another important aspect of the research is the seductive aspects of the marketing of fashion goods. The methods of procurement, in addition to the physical characteristics of the object itself, undergo a close analysis – how we as consumers are shaped by our methods of consumption as much as by our goods now. This research uses an object-based method, a process wherein both intrinsic and extrinsic information can be gleaned from a close examination of a garment, as well as an interview with a fashion journalist who witnessed the reorganization of a leading fashion website into a retail portal. This data is then combined with relevant theoretical frameworks to form ‘grounded theory’. The dematerialization of the modern ‘boutique’ that has now migrated online, the incipient forms of marketing to engage consumers and, ultimately, the recontextualization of the body and understanding of the self, all catalysed by online consumption are considered. As garments are now as ephemeral and placeless as the mechanism for the acquisition, an examination of the manufacture and dissemination of fashion product is warranted, and this in turn provides a more nuanced understanding of the ontology of luxury garments as well as their consumption in the modern fashion retail agora.
{"title":"Browsing the virtual boutique with Baudrillard: The new realities of online, device-based, luxury fashion design and consumption","authors":"M. O’Connell","doi":"10.1386/DBS_00018_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/DBS_00018_1","url":null,"abstract":"Contemporary engagement with fashion is with slick simulacra, daydreams and digital fantasies – an impossible promise of a beautiful, de-corporealized perfection. The virtualizing of fashion consumption has in turn dematerialized garments completely. Although late to the party, the consumer engagement with online luxury fashion has grown exponentially. Extremely expensive items are now purchased before they are engaged with physically. Therefore, within the new realities of device-based fashion design and consumption, the ‘wow’ factor and virtual considerations are paramount. There should be no surprise though that these garments align so closely with our taste, our consumption habits and our life patterns; they have been designed to do just that. In this research, through observation of a garment that was virtual before it became physical, the ascendant contemporary structure of modern fashion retail is analysed. This research explores how physical aspects of clothing have been devalued by the technology of modern capitalism, even as the importance of the ‘look’ has ascended. Another important aspect of the research is the seductive aspects of the marketing of fashion goods. The methods of procurement, in addition to the physical characteristics of the object itself, undergo a close analysis – how we as consumers are shaped by our methods of consumption as much as by our goods now. This research uses an object-based method, a process wherein both intrinsic and extrinsic information can be gleaned from a close examination of a garment, as well as an interview with a fashion journalist who witnessed the reorganization of a leading fashion website into a retail portal. This data is then combined with relevant theoretical frameworks to form ‘grounded theory’. The dematerialization of the modern ‘boutique’ that has now migrated online, the incipient forms of marketing to engage consumers and, ultimately, the recontextualization of the body and understanding of the self, all catalysed by online consumption are considered. As garments are now as ephemeral and placeless as the mechanism for the acquisition, an examination of the manufacture and dissemination of fashion product is warranted, and this in turn provides a more nuanced understanding of the ontology of luxury garments as well as their consumption in the modern fashion retail agora.","PeriodicalId":36715,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Design, Business and Society","volume":"28 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"79324018","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
D. Eggbeer, D. Mehrotra, K. Beverley, Steven Hollisey-Mclean, P. Evans
Advanced three-dimensional (3D) design and engineering technologies have revolutionized patient-specific implants, prostheses and medical devices, particularly in the cranio-maxillofacial and oral medical fields. Lately, decreasing costs, coupled with the reported benefits of bringing design and production technology closer to the point of healthcare delivery, have encouraged hospitals to implement their own 3D design and engineering services. Most academic literature reports on the factors that influence the sustainable development of such services in high-income countries. But what of low- and middle-income countries where demand for custom craniofacial devices is high? What are the unique challenges to implement in-hospital services in resource-constrained environments? This article reports the findings of a collaborative project, Co-MeDDI (Collaborative Medical Device Design Initiative), that brought together a UK-based team with the experience of setting up and running a hospital-based 3D service in the United Kingdom with the Maxillofacial Department of a public hospital in the Uttar Pradesh region of India, which had recently received funding to establish a similar capability. We describe a structured design research approach consisting of a series of exchange activities taking place during the lifetime of the project that compared different aspects of the healthcare innovation ecosystem for 3D services in India and the United Kingdom. Based on the findings of the different activities, we identify key factors that influence the adoption of such services in India. The findings are of relevance to healthcare policy-makers and public hospital managers in resource-constrained environments, and to academics and practitioners engaging in collaborative export of healthcare initiatives.
{"title":"Identifying research and development priorities for an in-hospital 3D design engineering facility in India","authors":"D. Eggbeer, D. Mehrotra, K. Beverley, Steven Hollisey-Mclean, P. Evans","doi":"10.1386/dbs_00011_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/dbs_00011_1","url":null,"abstract":"Advanced three-dimensional (3D) design and engineering technologies have revolutionized patient-specific implants, prostheses and medical devices, particularly in the cranio-maxillofacial and oral medical fields. Lately, decreasing costs, coupled with the reported benefits of bringing design and production technology closer to the point of healthcare delivery, have encouraged hospitals to implement their own 3D design and engineering services. Most academic literature reports on the factors that influence the sustainable development of such services in high-income countries. But what of low- and middle-income countries where demand for custom craniofacial devices is high? What are the unique challenges to implement in-hospital services in resource-constrained environments? This article reports the findings of a collaborative project, Co-MeDDI (Collaborative Medical Device Design Initiative), that brought together a UK-based team with the experience of setting up and running a hospital-based 3D service in the United Kingdom with the Maxillofacial Department of a public hospital in the Uttar Pradesh region of India, which had recently received funding to establish a similar capability. We describe a structured design research approach consisting of a series of exchange activities taking place during the lifetime of the project that compared different aspects of the healthcare innovation ecosystem for 3D services in India and the United Kingdom. Based on the findings of the different activities, we identify key factors that influence the adoption of such services in India. The findings are of relevance to healthcare policy-makers and public hospital managers in resource-constrained environments, and to academics and practitioners engaging in collaborative export of healthcare initiatives.","PeriodicalId":36715,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Design, Business and Society","volume":"54 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2020-10-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"84865454","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
R. Phillips, Amina Abbas-Nazari, J. Tooze, Nick Gant
Contemporary societies are distancing themselves from nature, driven by urbanization, biodiversity loss, connection loss, industrialization and loss of green space access – all reducing our empathy for nature. Conservation and grassroots reporting highlight nature’s wellbeing, and require impactful citizen-led responses. Youth leaders are reflecting mirrors on humankind, stating that ‘our world is on fire’ and demanding action. Natural world interactions provide health benefits and resilience, proving transformative to our attitude, values and behaviour. The My Naturewatch project facilitates engagements with people’s environments and, in doing so, helps them to comprehend them. Nature observations help connect, engage and foster custodians, at a time where separation from wildlife necessitates active engagement. Activities specifically challenge our understanding of ‘designed engagement(s)’, not as passive activities but as impactful active engagements, openly accessible. This article proposes criteria encouraging public participation within the natural world, presenting value to NGOs, designers, funders and agents. Thirty experts from design, ecology, conservation, museology, engagement, rewilding, wildlife and community work were interviewed, informing ‘design for environmental change through active engagement’. The work identifies design’s role in creating interventions that better engage people with the surrounding natural world, yielding long-term mutual benefits. The objective is to foster active public–nature engagement, identifying barriers, opportunities and pitfalls in nature-engaged interaction(s).
{"title":"Designing for active engagement, enabling resilience and fostering environmental change","authors":"R. Phillips, Amina Abbas-Nazari, J. Tooze, Nick Gant","doi":"10.1386/DBS_00004_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/DBS_00004_1","url":null,"abstract":"Contemporary societies are distancing themselves from nature, driven by urbanization, biodiversity loss, connection loss, industrialization and loss of green space access – all reducing our empathy for nature. Conservation and grassroots reporting highlight nature’s wellbeing, and require impactful citizen-led responses. Youth leaders are reflecting mirrors on humankind, stating that ‘our world is on fire’ and demanding action. Natural world interactions provide health benefits and resilience, proving transformative to our attitude, values and behaviour. The My Naturewatch project facilitates engagements with people’s environments and, in doing so, helps them to comprehend them. Nature observations help connect, engage and foster custodians, at a time where separation from wildlife necessitates active engagement. Activities specifically challenge our understanding of ‘designed engagement(s)’, not as passive activities but as impactful active engagements, openly accessible. This article proposes criteria encouraging public participation within the natural world, presenting value to NGOs, designers, funders and agents. Thirty experts from design, ecology, conservation, museology, engagement, rewilding, wildlife and community work were interviewed, informing ‘design for environmental change through active engagement’. The work identifies design’s role in creating interventions that better engage people with the surrounding natural world, yielding long-term mutual benefits. The objective is to foster active public–nature engagement, identifying barriers, opportunities and pitfalls in nature-engaged interaction(s).","PeriodicalId":36715,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Design, Business and Society","volume":"35 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2020-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"80460996","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
This article focuses on the notion of space of luxury. It explores the passage of time; in how showrooms and flagship stores, embedded in the tradition of symbolism and paradigms of symbolic elements, intersect with cutting-edge digital technologies. Also analysed is the resulting customer experience, evident at this meeting between old and new technologies. This study consists of three parts. First, a framework is established by way of a discussion of key concepts underpinning the physical, symbolical and cultural characteristics of the architecture of consumerism and luxury. Second, several case studies are examined to help understand the transition from the use of physical elements (materials, spatial qualities, lighting and surfaces), which generate exclusivity, surprise and sophistication in high-end showrooms, to the employment of new digital technologies ‐ where the luxury component is provided by access to exclusive information and experience. The final part discusses how data and information technologies are radically transforming the current luxury market, where luxury is based on accessibility, visibility and perception. Traditionally luxury spaces were based on a physical demarcation of territories of exclusivity. This contrasts with new luxury spaces that allow for exclusivity to be invisible and ubiquitous; enhancing not only its own imposition of narrow market segmentation, but also acting as bridging elements into every other market sector. Traditionally, the quality and durability of experience around visual meaning, has always been a prerequisite for luxury. As our visual world reorients around the invisible, what we cannot see still has to be sustainable to the point of scarcity. This study holds that visual sustainability, as part of the larger orbit of perception’s five senses, still remains the primary container of meaning, because we see through our experience. Through this experience then, luxury is reinventing itself as a digital showreel; not only of what exists, but of what is possible.
{"title":"Reifying luxury, gold to golden: How the showroom became a digital showreel, from object (gold) to experience (golden) ‐ experiencing luxury by abstracting the object","authors":"S. Carta, Pieter De Kock","doi":"10.1386/dbs.5.2.193_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/dbs.5.2.193_1","url":null,"abstract":"This article focuses on the notion of space of luxury. It explores the passage of time; in how showrooms and flagship stores, embedded in the tradition of symbolism and paradigms of symbolic elements, intersect with cutting-edge digital technologies. Also analysed is the resulting customer\u0000 experience, evident at this meeting between old and new technologies. This study consists of three parts. First, a framework is established by way of a discussion of key concepts underpinning the physical, symbolical and cultural characteristics of the architecture of consumerism and luxury.\u0000 Second, several case studies are examined to help understand the transition from the use of physical elements (materials, spatial qualities, lighting and surfaces), which generate exclusivity, surprise and sophistication in high-end showrooms, to the employment of new digital technologies\u0000 ‐ where the luxury component is provided by access to exclusive information and experience. The final part discusses how data and information technologies are radically transforming the current luxury market, where luxury is based on accessibility, visibility and perception. Traditionally\u0000 luxury spaces were based on a physical demarcation of territories of exclusivity. This contrasts with new luxury spaces that allow for exclusivity to be invisible and ubiquitous; enhancing not only its own imposition of narrow market segmentation, but also acting as bridging elements into\u0000 every other market sector. Traditionally, the quality and durability of experience around visual meaning, has always been a prerequisite for luxury. As our visual world reorients around the invisible, what we cannot see still has to be sustainable to the point of scarcity. This study holds\u0000 that visual sustainability, as part of the larger orbit of perception’s five senses, still remains the primary container of meaning, because we see through our experience. Through this experience then, luxury is reinventing itself as a digital showreel; not only of what exists, but of\u0000 what is possible.","PeriodicalId":36715,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Design, Business and Society","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-10-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"74044930","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
South Africa is the leading luxury fashion market in Africa. The growing significance of its luxury market driven by a sophisticated and rapidly expanding retail industry has attracted the biggest footprint of international luxury fashion brands in the continent. The influx of international brands has intensified competition in the local luxury industry and introduced new complexities to the management of local luxury fashion brands. A major drawback to the growth potential of local luxury fashion brands is the prevalence of weak brand value, with a consequent negative disposition of consumers to local luxury fashion brands, which adversely impacts their ability to command premium prices. We explore the operational environment of five local luxury fashion brands to understand the factors militating against their efforts at building valuable brands. A number of challenges were identified in the value and supply chain of local brands, which inhibits the ability of local brands to attract premium prices. This article provides insight into the marketing of local luxury brands in emerging markets with a specific reference to South Africa.
{"title":"Analysing the impact of operational challenges on value perceptions of South African luxury fashion brands","authors":"Kenneth Appiah-Nimo","doi":"10.1386/dbs.5.2.169_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/dbs.5.2.169_1","url":null,"abstract":"South Africa is the leading luxury fashion market in Africa. The growing significance of its luxury market driven by a sophisticated and rapidly expanding retail industry has attracted the biggest footprint of international luxury fashion brands in the continent. The influx of international\u0000 brands has intensified competition in the local luxury industry and introduced new complexities to the management of local luxury fashion brands. A major drawback to the growth potential of local luxury fashion brands is the prevalence of weak brand value, with a consequent negative disposition\u0000 of consumers to local luxury fashion brands, which adversely impacts their ability to command premium prices. We explore the operational environment of five local luxury fashion brands to understand the factors militating against their efforts at building valuable brands. A number of challenges\u0000 were identified in the value and supply chain of local brands, which inhibits the ability of local brands to attract premium prices. This article provides insight into the marketing of local luxury brands in emerging markets with a specific reference to South Africa.","PeriodicalId":36715,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Design, Business and Society","volume":"106 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-10-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"78408132","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
When considering luxury as a state of great comfort founded on excess, has the time come to shift our interpretation, taking into consideration contemporary notions of luxury and our concerns for the preservation of our natural resources? Has luxury become a catch-all phrase whose meaning is no longer relevant? Taking into account the historical journey that brought us to this point in time and space, what could luxury become that enables a new voyage of discovery, one where the destination is unknown, undefined and constantly changing to reflect the state of space we now occupy? Our technological dependence and diminishing capacity for attention is making it easy for old luxury to grow and prosper. And our compliance no longer questions as luxury becomes available at the click of a button. But if we take the route of great comfort and rethink the excess, can luxury instil a sense of wellbeing, of intellectual curiosity, something that’s not solely tied to the product manifestation or experience, but one that nurtures both a philosophical and psychological insight than transcends any trophy?
{"title":"No space for luxury?","authors":"Mark A. Bloomfield","doi":"10.1386/dbs.5.2.139_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/dbs.5.2.139_1","url":null,"abstract":"When considering luxury as a state of great comfort founded on excess, has the time come to shift our interpretation, taking into consideration contemporary notions of luxury and our concerns for the preservation of our natural resources? Has luxury become a catch-all phrase whose meaning\u0000 is no longer relevant? Taking into account the historical journey that brought us to this point in time and space, what could luxury become that enables a new voyage of discovery, one where the destination is unknown, undefined and constantly changing to reflect the state of space we now occupy?\u0000 Our technological dependence and diminishing capacity for attention is making it easy for old luxury to grow and prosper. And our compliance no longer questions as luxury becomes available at the click of a button. But if we take the route of great comfort and rethink the excess, can luxury\u0000 instil a sense of wellbeing, of intellectual curiosity, something that’s not solely tied to the product manifestation or experience, but one that nurtures both a philosophical and psychological insight than transcends any trophy?","PeriodicalId":36715,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Design, Business and Society","volume":"80 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-10-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"80969802","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Luxury brands have developed new strategies to enhance their value in a more competitive terrain where the exclusivity of luxury is called into question. In a consumer society the definition of luxury has broadened and the scope of luxury has enlarged due to the globalization of luxury brands, increased awareness of these brands and the availability of products to a larger audience on more platforms. While profit margins of some of the top brands are showing impressive growth in order to retain some of the requisite qualities traditionally associated with luxury, ‐ rarity, beauty, timelessness ‐ luxury enterprises must broaden their scope beyond the commercial realm. Many luxury fashion brands have accomplished this through collaborations with artists, engaging renowned architects to create extraordinary flagship stores, showing the work of artists in flagship stores, and in some cases, creating separate spaces within stores for exhibitions. Some brands have entered into collaborations with museums, and a few have created foundations apart from their flagship stores. We will consider the evolution and meaning behind the development of the Fondation Louis Vuitton, an exemplar of this strategy that ties the brand to the world of contemporary art through the realization of a utopian structure within the Bois de Boulogne in Paris.
{"title":"The Fondation Louis Vuitton: A utopian space apart from the world of luxury retail","authors":"Veronica Manlow","doi":"10.1386/dbs.5.2.149_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/dbs.5.2.149_1","url":null,"abstract":"Luxury brands have developed new strategies to enhance their value in a more competitive terrain where the exclusivity of luxury is called into question. In a consumer society the definition of luxury has broadened and the scope of luxury has enlarged due to the globalization of luxury\u0000 brands, increased awareness of these brands and the availability of products to a larger audience on more platforms. While profit margins of some of the top brands are showing impressive growth in order to retain some of the requisite qualities traditionally associated with luxury, ‐\u0000 rarity, beauty, timelessness ‐ luxury enterprises must broaden their scope beyond the commercial realm. Many luxury fashion brands have accomplished this through collaborations with artists, engaging renowned architects to create extraordinary flagship stores, showing the work of artists\u0000 in flagship stores, and in some cases, creating separate spaces within stores for exhibitions. Some brands have entered into collaborations with museums, and a few have created foundations apart from their flagship stores. We will consider the evolution and meaning behind the development of\u0000 the Fondation Louis Vuitton, an exemplar of this strategy that ties the brand to the world of contemporary art through the realization of a utopian structure within the Bois de Boulogne in Paris.","PeriodicalId":36715,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Design, Business and Society","volume":"17 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-10-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"78474140","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Historically, luxury relies on new technologies but the connection between luxury and technology is not new. I will illustrate how ritual, wealth, science and technology are embodied in luxury. I will point to ancient archaeological and architectural treasures and will discuss how mining, advanced construction and soldering techniques and the transformation of bronze alloy, for example, represented an integration between the highest levels of taste, craftsmanship and scientific technology. Luxury is modernity and in antiquity we see it as a forward moving force at the highest levels of development. When we think of haute couture, there seems to be nothing in common with say, for example, Hipsters or Silicon Valley engineers. But when we think of technology as a common node, we find that concern with artistry, provenance, the importance of the maker, as well as science, are common denominators. Luxury impacts everyday life and answers to contemporary culture at large.
{"title":"Dernier cri: Continuity and convergence in technology and luxury","authors":"Stéphane Houy-Towner","doi":"10.1386/dbs.5.2.207_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/dbs.5.2.207_1","url":null,"abstract":"Historically, luxury relies on new technologies but the connection between luxury and technology is not new. I will illustrate how ritual, wealth, science and technology are embodied in luxury. I will point to ancient archaeological and architectural treasures and will discuss how mining,\u0000 advanced construction and soldering techniques and the transformation of bronze alloy, for example, represented an integration between the highest levels of taste, craftsmanship and scientific technology. Luxury is modernity and in antiquity we see it as a forward moving force at the highest\u0000 levels of development. When we think of haute couture, there seems to be nothing in common with say, for example, Hipsters or Silicon Valley engineers. But when we think of technology as a common node, we find that concern with artistry, provenance, the importance of the maker, as well as\u0000 science, are common denominators. Luxury impacts everyday life and answers to contemporary culture at large.","PeriodicalId":36715,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Design, Business and Society","volume":"44 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-10-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"88366301","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
As a common part of everyday speech, the meaning of the word ‘luxury’ has been eroded and devalued over time. Nonetheless, it continues to have impact as an element of luxury branding through its deployment across various media, due to its historical associations with wealth, exclusivity and status. Accordingly, the word ‘luxury’, has been employed/deployed both historically and in contemporary contexts, as part of an economic system, including its use in advertising campaigns, point of sale and in everyday parlance, to denote ideas of intrinsic value (whether existent or not). Meanwhile as this short article will propose, beyond these pragmatic applications, language itself might be thought of as a form of ‘luxury’; something with a worth that surpasses any functional need: something excess or surplus; something unnecessary, but desirable. This notion of luxury can be found in language as a medium, one which we often use indiscriminately, and without regard for its beauty, scarcity and true value. Contemplating the various affordances of language, and the economies of language, where ‘economy’ is not posed as a financial system, but as a way of thinking and acting within any system, allows us to see languages’ intrinsic worth. Via five separate thought experiments/examples, ranging from Oulipo-like games of linguistic restraint, through Fahrenheit 451, and finally to the ways in which technologies are rendering language as a luxury. In the end we will see how we might think of the luxury of language itself, as something which is far from excess or shallow, but possessing intrinsic value; returning us to the true meaning of the term ‘luxury’, which we have (arguably), forgotten.
{"title":"The language of luxury, the luxury of language","authors":"Sheena Calvert","doi":"10.1386/dbs.5.2.223_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/dbs.5.2.223_1","url":null,"abstract":"As a common part of everyday speech, the meaning of the word ‘luxury’ has been eroded and devalued over time. Nonetheless, it continues to have impact as an element of luxury branding through its deployment across various media, due to its historical associations with wealth,\u0000 exclusivity and status. Accordingly, the word ‘luxury’, has been employed/deployed both historically and in contemporary contexts, as part of an economic system, including its use in advertising campaigns, point of sale and in everyday parlance, to denote ideas of intrinsic\u0000 value (whether existent or not). Meanwhile as this short article will propose, beyond these pragmatic applications, language itself might be thought of as a form of ‘luxury’; something with a worth that surpasses any functional need: something excess or surplus; something\u0000 unnecessary, but desirable. This notion of luxury can be found in language as a medium, one which we often use indiscriminately, and without regard for its beauty, scarcity and true value. Contemplating the various affordances of language, and the economies of language, where ‘economy’\u0000 is not posed as a financial system, but as a way of thinking and acting within any system, allows us to see languages’ intrinsic worth. Via five separate thought experiments/examples, ranging from Oulipo-like games of linguistic restraint, through Fahrenheit 451, and finally to\u0000 the ways in which technologies are rendering language as a luxury. In the end we will see how we might think of the luxury of language itself, as something which is far from excess or shallow, but possessing intrinsic value; returning us to the true meaning of the term ‘luxury’,\u0000 which we have (arguably), forgotten.","PeriodicalId":36715,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Design, Business and Society","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-10-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"83182279","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
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