In the 1920s and 1930s, missionaries and colonial officials in equatorial Africa collected thousands of amulets – devices worn on the body that were made locally for protection and healing (spiritual and/or physical). One of these collections – assembled in the 1920s by an American pseudo-missionary, Major John White – is now held at the Mathers Museum of World Cultures at Indiana University, which accepted the amulets and other artefacts used by the Tetela people as an example of ‘medical anthropology’. Although they were not made as ‘fashion’ (or even as art), I argue that they can be viewed as a style of dress specific to a time and place and thus as fashion. Like fashions in clothing, individual amulets can be shown to have similarities in their form and symbolic meaning, which can be expected to change over time. I propose looking at this collection of amulets as a ‘fashion benchmark’ in the history of Tetela dress, calling for further research and seeking to push the boundaries on our conception of fashion, making it less focused on the ‘fashion industry’ and more inclusive of slower-changing styles of dress, minority cultures, and non-western cultures.
{"title":"Tetela amulets: Re-interpreting a medical anthropology collection as a fashion benchmark","authors":"H. Akou","doi":"10.1386/infs_00002_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/infs_00002_1","url":null,"abstract":"In the 1920s and 1930s, missionaries and colonial officials in equatorial Africa collected thousands of amulets – devices worn on the body that were made locally for protection and healing (spiritual and/or physical). One of these collections – assembled in the 1920s by\u0000 an American pseudo-missionary, Major John White – is now held at the Mathers Museum of World Cultures at Indiana University, which accepted the amulets and other artefacts used by the Tetela people as an example of ‘medical anthropology’. Although they were not made as ‘fashion’\u0000 (or even as art), I argue that they can be viewed as a style of dress specific to a time and place and thus as fashion. Like fashions in clothing, individual amulets can be shown to have similarities in their form and symbolic meaning, which can be expected to change over time. I propose looking\u0000 at this collection of amulets as a ‘fashion benchmark’ in the history of Tetela dress, calling for further research and seeking to push the boundaries on our conception of fashion, making it less focused on the ‘fashion industry’ and more inclusive of slower-changing\u0000 styles of dress, minority cultures, and non-western cultures.","PeriodicalId":42103,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Fashion Studies","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2019-10-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45487480","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Fashion’s unruliness: The 68. Pop and Protest exhibition","authors":"Nathalie Keigel","doi":"10.1386/infs_00012_7","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/infs_00012_7","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":42103,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Fashion Studies","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2019-10-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"44373079","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Sven Bethke, C. Breward, Nathalie Keigel, A. Novikov
{"title":"Fashion studies, five questions: An interview with Christopher Breward","authors":"Sven Bethke, C. Breward, Nathalie Keigel, A. Novikov","doi":"10.1386/infs_00004_7","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/infs_00004_7","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":42103,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Fashion Studies","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2019-10-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"47310780","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
This article provides a methodological approach to the integration of Zionist photographs into research on the pre-state Jewish community in Eretz Israel from the end of the nineteenth century until the foundation of the Jewish state in 1948. By focusing on dress, and drawing on visual culture and fashion studies, the article highlights the role of the individual in nation building and foregrounds the influence of various migrant groups in the emergence of a national project. While scholarship has largely ignored the role of dress, and especially male dress, in pre-state settings, the article takes the example of Eretz Israel to show how examining dress in Zionist photographs sheds light on the experimental and transnational character in search of a new Hebrew culture. By examining three photographs of socialist Zionist groups of the second Aliyah, the article shows how male Zionist settlers integrated transnational dressing habits and fantasies about their imagined homeland. They created a new way of dressing as an expression of political agendas that were interconnected with the reinvention of a new image of the male Jew. Looking beyond the case study of Eretz Israel, the article stresses the broader relevance of dress in the negotiations and power struggles at the micro level of a pre-state community and the emergence of national clothing ideals. It concludes by outlining ways of refining the methodological approach, and suggesting future research avenues at the intersection of fashion studies and nation building by shifting the focus towards case studies prior to the existence of national fashion systems.
{"title":"How to dress up in Eretz Israel, 1880s–1948: A visual approach to clothing, fashion and nation building","authors":"Sven Bethke","doi":"10.1386/infs_00006_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/infs_00006_1","url":null,"abstract":"This article provides a methodological approach to the integration of Zionist photographs into research on the pre-state Jewish community in Eretz Israel from the end of the nineteenth century until the foundation of the Jewish state in 1948. By focusing on dress, and drawing on visual\u0000 culture and fashion studies, the article highlights the role of the individual in nation building and foregrounds the influence of various migrant groups in the emergence of a national project. While scholarship has largely ignored the role of dress, and especially male dress, in pre-state\u0000 settings, the article takes the example of Eretz Israel to show how examining dress in Zionist photographs sheds light on the experimental and transnational character in search of a new Hebrew culture. By examining three photographs of socialist Zionist groups of the second Aliyah, the article\u0000 shows how male Zionist settlers integrated transnational dressing habits and fantasies about their imagined homeland. They created a new way of dressing as an expression of political agendas that were interconnected with the reinvention of a new image of the male Jew. Looking beyond the case\u0000 study of Eretz Israel, the article stresses the broader relevance of dress in the negotiations and power struggles at the micro level of a pre-state community and the emergence of national clothing ideals. It concludes by outlining ways of refining the methodological approach, and suggesting\u0000 future research avenues at the intersection of fashion studies and nation building by shifting the focus towards case studies prior to the existence of national fashion systems.","PeriodicalId":42103,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Fashion Studies","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2019-10-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"46976759","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Members of online menswear communities spend their leisure time engaged in extensive textual discussions of menswear. This article presents some of the findings from a study of these online menswear communities. It is based on an online ethnography of six online menswear forums and 50 in-depth interviews with men from Britain, Canada and the United States who use them. It details how the research participants, despite their passion for clothing, produced a rhetorical distance between style and fashion. Fashion was rejected in favour of what was described as ‘classic menswear’, ‘style’, ‘timeless style’ or simply ‘clothes’. This was a productive critique of fashion’s temporality, with online menswear communities offering a more democratic, inclusive and participatory alternative to men’s fashion. However, this rejection of fashion also reflected the persistent gendering of fashion. As spaces for the discussion of clothing, as opposed to fashion, online menswear communities allowed men to enjoy clothes and consumption without their masculinity being tainted by fashion’s associations with femininity.
{"title":"Fashion vs style: The repudiation of fashion in online menswear communities","authors":"Nathaniel Weiner","doi":"10.1386/INFS.6.1.3_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/INFS.6.1.3_1","url":null,"abstract":"Members of online menswear communities spend their leisure time engaged in extensive textual discussions of menswear. This article presents some of the findings from a study of these online menswear communities. It is based on an online ethnography of six online menswear forums and 50 in-depth interviews with men from Britain, Canada and the United States who use them. It details how the research participants, despite their passion for clothing, produced a rhetorical distance between style and fashion. Fashion was rejected in favour of what was described as ‘classic menswear’, ‘style’, ‘timeless style’ or simply ‘clothes’. This was a productive critique of fashion’s temporality, with online menswear communities offering a more democratic, inclusive and participatory alternative to men’s fashion. However, this rejection of fashion also reflected the persistent gendering of fashion. As spaces for the discussion of clothing, as opposed to fashion, online menswear communities allowed men to enjoy clothes and consumption without their masculinity being tainted by fashion’s associations with femininity.","PeriodicalId":42103,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Fashion Studies","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2019-04-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"49374625","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"The emergence of French Vogue: French identity and visual culture in the fashion press, 1920–40","authors":"Sophie Kurkdjian","doi":"10.1386/INFS.6.1.63_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/INFS.6.1.63_1","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":42103,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Fashion Studies","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2019-04-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42386800","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
As part of the following commentary there is consideration of how the mainstreaming of ‘intersectional feminism’ is implicated in allegedly ‘feminist advertising’ by fast fashion brands H&M, Boohoo and Missguided, ultimately to generate profit. Feminist thought has involved critique of how capitalist systems are entangled with sexist structures that contribute to the subjugation of women (Davis 1981). Nevertheless, despite such contentions, the notion of what scholars such as Akestam, Dahlen and Rosengren (2017) call ‘femvertising’ (feminist advertising), has recently emerged in marketing rhetoric and beyond. In this commentary, I argue that ultimately, such femvertising still upholds the profit-oriented idea that women must buy and consume certain products, in order to affirm themselves and the market-bound sense of ‘feminism’ that is being promoted. I explore the extent to which such marketing is reflective of a commitment to feminism, or is a false (fauxminist) attempt to convey a brand’s investment in women’s equality and empowerment. Through the analysis of advertisements of fast fashion brands I illustrate the ways in which feminist-coded content is effectively and ineffectively used, as well as discarded, as part of fast fashion marketing messages of inclusivity.
{"title":"Femvertising and fast fashion: Feminist advertising or fauxminist marketing messages?","authors":"Francesca Sobande","doi":"10.1386/INFS.6.1.105_7","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/INFS.6.1.105_7","url":null,"abstract":"As part of the following commentary there is consideration of how the mainstreaming of ‘intersectional feminism’ is implicated in allegedly ‘feminist advertising’ by fast fashion brands H&M, Boohoo and Missguided, ultimately to generate profit. Feminist thought has involved critique of how capitalist systems are entangled with sexist structures that contribute to the subjugation of women (Davis 1981). Nevertheless, despite such contentions, the notion of what scholars such as Akestam, Dahlen and Rosengren (2017) call ‘femvertising’ (feminist advertising), has recently emerged in marketing rhetoric and beyond. In this commentary, I argue that ultimately, such femvertising still upholds the profit-oriented idea that women must buy and consume certain products, in order to affirm themselves and the market-bound sense of ‘feminism’ that is being promoted. I explore the extent to which such marketing is reflective of a commitment to feminism, or is a false (fauxminist) attempt to convey a brand’s investment in women’s equality and empowerment. Through the analysis of advertisements of fast fashion brands I illustrate the ways in which feminist-coded content is effectively and ineffectively used, as well as discarded, as part of fast fashion marketing messages of inclusivity.","PeriodicalId":42103,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Fashion Studies","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2019-04-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1386/INFS.6.1.105_7","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43134694","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Clothing and its intimate proximity to the body and self have been widely explored, and yet there is little psychological research that explores the experience of wearing items of clothing imbued with personal meanings, memories and emotions. This novel study explores the experience of actively worn items of attachment clothing from a psychological perspective. Method: due to a dearth of literature within this area, a qualitative methodology was employed. Interpretative Phenomenological Analysis (IPA) was used as the focus was to explore details of participants’ experience. A homogenous sample of five participants was used. Participants were asked to wear to the interview a garment that they felt emotionally attached to and was still in use. Semi-structured interviews were used, allowing for flexibility, thus ensuring the elicitation of rich data. Results: findings demonstrated that clothing attachment is a multifaceted and rich phenomenon. The garments were appropriated and imbued with a symbolic resonance that participants accessed through wearing the attachment garment. Conclusion: results link to and extend previous literature on possession attachment and provide nuanced findings that could impact areas within both fashion literature and psychology literature.
{"title":"‘It’s like... it’s me’: Exploring the lived experience of clothing attachment during wear","authors":"Rebecka Fleetwood-Smith, K. Hefferon, C. Mair","doi":"10.1386/INFS.6.1.41_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/INFS.6.1.41_1","url":null,"abstract":"Clothing and its intimate proximity to the body and self have been widely explored, and yet there is little psychological research that explores the experience of wearing items of clothing imbued with personal meanings, memories and emotions. This novel study explores the experience of actively worn items of attachment clothing from a psychological perspective. Method: due to a dearth of literature within this area, a qualitative methodology was employed. Interpretative Phenomenological Analysis (IPA) was used as the focus was to explore details of participants’ experience. A homogenous sample of five participants was used. Participants were asked to wear to the interview a garment that they felt emotionally attached to and was still in use. Semi-structured interviews were used, allowing for flexibility, thus ensuring the elicitation of rich data. Results: findings demonstrated that clothing attachment is a multifaceted and rich phenomenon. The garments were appropriated and imbued with a symbolic resonance that participants accessed through wearing the attachment garment. Conclusion: results link to and extend previous literature on possession attachment and provide nuanced findings that could impact areas within both fashion literature and psychology literature.","PeriodicalId":42103,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Fashion Studies","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2019-04-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"41771927","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Jana Melkumova-Reynolds, R. Velody, Christine Tsui, S. Reinach
{"title":"Book Reviews","authors":"Jana Melkumova-Reynolds, R. Velody, Christine Tsui, S. Reinach","doi":"10.1386/infs.6.1.127_5","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/infs.6.1.127_5","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":42103,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Fashion Studies","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2019-04-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45508355","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"‘I make no money. I’m broke’: A study on the organization of work in the contemporary Swedish fashion industry","authors":"Philip Warkander","doi":"10.1386/INFS.6.1.25_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/INFS.6.1.25_1","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":42103,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Fashion Studies","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2019-04-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1386/INFS.6.1.25_1","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45350106","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
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