Review of: Very Important People: Status and Beauty in the Global Party Circuit, Ashley Mears (2020) Princeton, NJ and Oxford: Princeton University Press, 320 pp., ISBN 978-0-69122-705-4, p/bk, £12.99 ISBN 978-0-69116-865-4, h/bk, £25.00
{"title":"Very Important People: Status and Beauty in the Global Party Circuit, Ashley Mears (2020)","authors":"Damon Reed","doi":"10.1386/infs_00090_5","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/infs_00090_5","url":null,"abstract":"Review of: Very Important People: Status and Beauty in the Global Party Circuit, Ashley Mears (2020)\u0000 Princeton, NJ and Oxford: Princeton University Press, 320 pp.,\u0000 ISBN 978-0-69122-705-4, p/bk, £12.99\u0000 ISBN 978-0-69116-865-4, h/bk, £25.00","PeriodicalId":42103,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Fashion Studies","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2023-04-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45556591","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
This article analyses the discourse around ‘new ethics’ in Russia’s two lifestyle and fashion publications – Vogue Russia and The Blueprint. The ‘new ethics’ is a vague term which, by the late 2010s in Russia, had come to refer to a whole spate of disparate initiatives, attitudes and ethical norms, including sustainability, diversity and inclusion, the #MeToo movement and anti-racist practices. Remarkably, the discourse around the ‘new ethics’ has gained currency at a time when the Russian state urges Russians to embrace ‘traditional values’ that are rooted in Orthodox Christianity. Employing qualitative analysis of texts and images this article demonstrates that, in Russian fashion and lifestyle magazines, the ‘new ethics’ discourse has emerged as a site for negotiating women’s and queer rights, ‘traditional’ and ‘western’ values, as well as Russian state politics, while simultaneously providing a way for the publications to disassociate themselves from the state-promoted values.
{"title":"‘New ethics’ in Russian fashion magazines: Discussing ‘western-ness’, Russian-ness and values","authors":"I. Solomatina","doi":"10.1386/infs_00084_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/infs_00084_1","url":null,"abstract":"This article analyses the discourse around ‘new ethics’ in Russia’s two lifestyle and fashion publications – Vogue Russia and The Blueprint. The ‘new ethics’ is a vague term which, by the late 2010s in Russia, had come to refer to a whole spate of disparate initiatives, attitudes and ethical norms, including sustainability, diversity and inclusion, the #MeToo movement and anti-racist practices. Remarkably, the discourse around the ‘new ethics’ has gained currency at a time when the Russian state urges Russians to embrace ‘traditional values’ that are rooted in Orthodox Christianity. Employing qualitative analysis of texts and images this article demonstrates that, in Russian fashion and lifestyle magazines, the ‘new ethics’ discourse has emerged as a site for negotiating women’s and queer rights, ‘traditional’ and ‘western’ values, as well as Russian state politics, while simultaneously providing a way for the publications to disassociate themselves from the state-promoted values.","PeriodicalId":42103,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Fashion Studies","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2023-04-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"47005555","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
This article traces a year in which I moved from Cape Town, South Africa to the University of Oxford, England for my master’s in African studies. It presents a series of vignettes to explore the interplay of disability, dress and disguise during that time as trauma, alienation and my history of mental illness triggered a health crisis. The physical realities of living in my new body fundamentally changed not only how I dressed it, but my relationship with dress itself. Dressing became an obstacle to being able to be in the external world, a performance of invisibility to dissolve the selves that rendered me so abnormal, both politically and medically, and a touchstone of a prior and better existence.
{"title":"Whose body is it anyway? Disguising a disabled self","authors":"N. Cornell","doi":"10.1386/infs_00087_7","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/infs_00087_7","url":null,"abstract":"This article traces a year in which I moved from Cape Town, South Africa to the University of Oxford, England for my master’s in African studies. It presents a series of vignettes to explore the interplay of disability, dress and disguise during that time as trauma, alienation and my history of mental illness triggered a health crisis. The physical realities of living in my new body fundamentally changed not only how I dressed it, but my relationship with dress itself. Dressing became an obstacle to being able to be in the external world, a performance of invisibility to dissolve the selves that rendered me so abnormal, both politically and medically, and a touchstone of a prior and better existence.","PeriodicalId":42103,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Fashion Studies","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2023-04-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43944639","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Garmenting: Costume as Contemporary Art, curated by Alexandra Schwartz, Museum of Arts and Design, New York, 12 March–14 August 2022","authors":"Doris Domoszlai-Lantner","doi":"10.1386/infs_00088_5","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/infs_00088_5","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":42103,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Fashion Studies","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2023-04-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"46110949","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
This article focuses on fashion ‘paratexts’ – text snippets such as titles, introductions and captions – as connotative and denotative forces within the ecosystem of the fashion magazine. Building on current research on fashion text and writing, we introduce the ‘Fashion Paratext Dataset’: a research project that explores the technical and aesthetic dimensions of fashion captions and their strategic role in the reading of fashion images. The project employs a methodology from data science to produce a substantial dataset of modern fashion captions that can be analysed and interpreted by the researchers. This article outlines the context, methodology and reports on initial findings of this research project which aims to further understand the way language, via paratexts, functions in the cyclical production of fashion and throughout its history as a modern industry. Further to this, we show how these liminal texts actively mediate editorial content within contemporary fashion media (a hybrid of digital and analogue platforms) and thus define how we relate to garments, and fashion.
{"title":"On the paratextual thresholds of fashion: The creation and early analysis of a dataset of fashion magazine captions","authors":"Laura Gardner, Femke de Vries, Rowan McNaught","doi":"10.1386/infs_00085_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/infs_00085_1","url":null,"abstract":"This article focuses on fashion ‘paratexts’ – text snippets such as titles, introductions and captions – as connotative and denotative forces within the ecosystem of the fashion magazine. Building on current research on fashion text and writing, we introduce the ‘Fashion Paratext Dataset’: a research project that explores the technical and aesthetic dimensions of fashion captions and their strategic role in the reading of fashion images. The project employs a methodology from data science to produce a substantial dataset of modern fashion captions that can be analysed and interpreted by the researchers. This article outlines the context, methodology and reports on initial findings of this research project which aims to further understand the way language, via paratexts, functions in the cyclical production of fashion and throughout its history as a modern industry. Further to this, we show how these liminal texts actively mediate editorial content within contemporary fashion media (a hybrid of digital and analogue platforms) and thus define how we relate to garments, and fashion.","PeriodicalId":42103,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Fashion Studies","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2023-04-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"41395035","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Review of: The Fashion Show Goes Live: Exclusive and Mediatized Performance, Rebecca Halliday (2022) London, New York and Dublin: Bloomsbury, 234 pp., ISBN 978-1-35022-634-0, h/bk, $143.95
评论：The Fashion Show Goes Live:Exclusive and Mediated Performance，Rebecca Halliday（2022）伦敦、纽约和都柏林：Bloomsbury，234页，ISBN 978-1-35022-634-0，h/bk，143.95美元
{"title":"The Fashion Show Goes Live: Exclusive and Mediatized Performance, Rebecca Halliday (2022)","authors":"Marco Pecorari","doi":"10.1386/infs_00091_5","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/infs_00091_5","url":null,"abstract":"Review of: The Fashion Show Goes Live: Exclusive and Mediatized Performance, Rebecca Halliday (2022)\u0000 London, New York and Dublin: Bloomsbury, 234 pp.,\u0000 ISBN 978-1-35022-634-0, h/bk, $143.95","PeriodicalId":42103,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Fashion Studies","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2023-04-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"44440731","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
This article examines the evolution of trend forecasting and its challenges in complex and fast-paced changing times. This qualitative and exploratory study consisted of nine in-depth interviews with trend forecasting experts and a supportive literature review that contextualizes this research and illuminates the gaps that could benefit from primary qualitative data. The research question that guides this work is: what are the current challenges and changes in fashion forecasting? The findings show that trend forecasting is facing crucial challenges regarding three main areas: (1) the acceleration of change and the chaotic pulverization of information, (2) the complexity of cultural information versus the elitist and exclusive approach to the practice, (3) the intersection between technology and human skills in trend analysis. It concludes that trend forecasting is faulty in dealing with the complexity of more diverse, multidirectional and nonconformist contemporary societies since it works as a tool to conform, compress, flatten and simplify information to guide the industry rather than to communicate the complexity of cultural shifts in all their possibilities, nuances and details.
{"title":"Contemporary changes and challenges in the practice of trend forecasting","authors":"C. C. Garcia","doi":"10.1386/infs_00086_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/infs_00086_1","url":null,"abstract":"This article examines the evolution of trend forecasting and its challenges in complex and fast-paced changing times. This qualitative and exploratory study consisted of nine in-depth interviews with trend forecasting experts and a supportive literature review that contextualizes this research and illuminates the gaps that could benefit from primary qualitative data. The research question that guides this work is: what are the current challenges and changes in fashion forecasting? The findings show that trend forecasting is facing crucial challenges regarding three main areas: (1) the acceleration of change and the chaotic pulverization of information, (2) the complexity of cultural information versus the elitist and exclusive approach to the practice, (3) the intersection between technology and human skills in trend analysis. It concludes that trend forecasting is faulty in dealing with the complexity of more diverse, multidirectional and nonconformist contemporary societies since it works as a tool to conform, compress, flatten and simplify information to guide the industry rather than to communicate the complexity of cultural shifts in all their possibilities, nuances and details.","PeriodicalId":42103,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Fashion Studies","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2023-04-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"49517241","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Review of: Frans Hals: The Male Portrait, Lelia Packer and Ashok Roy (2021) London: Philip Wilson Publishers and Bloomsbury, 130 pp., ISBN 978-1-78130-110-4, p/bk, £20
评论：Frans Hals:The Male Portrait，Lelia Packer and Ashok Roy（2021）伦敦：Philip Wilson出版社和Bloomsbury出版社，130页，ISBN 978-1-78130-110-4，p/bk，20英镑
{"title":"Frans Hals: The Male Portrait, Lelia Packer and Ashok Roy (2021)","authors":"Paul Bench","doi":"10.1386/infs_00089_5","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/infs_00089_5","url":null,"abstract":"Review of: Frans Hals: The Male Portrait, Lelia Packer and Ashok Roy (2021)\u0000 London: Philip Wilson Publishers and Bloomsbury, 130 pp.,\u0000 ISBN 978-1-78130-110-4, p/bk, £20","PeriodicalId":42103,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Fashion Studies","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2023-04-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"46716897","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
M. Retamal, T. Brydges, S. Sharpe, T. Ferrero-Regis, Deborah Fisher, A. Gwilt, Lisa Lake, Monika Holgar, Rimi Khan, Zoe Nay, A. Payne, Katie Roberts
Australian fashion is emblematic of Global North countries with high levels of consumption and waste, dominated by high street fast fashion brands. It also has some unique characteristics as it is located in the Asia-Pacific region – the central production hub of garments – and is a leading producer of quality natural fibres such as cotton and wool. Despite this, Australia has a hollowed-out manufacturing sector that can provide minimal value add to these fibres, and little reuse, remanufacturing or recycling infrastructure for post-consumption garment waste. Ambition for change in the Australian fashion sector is rapidly accelerating with product stewardship initiatives, a modern slavery act and textile waste being designated a priority by the Commonwealth government. Both the policy and industry landscape is evolving. This article reflects on the research landscape of Australian sustainable fashion. The authors of this article draw on multi- and interdisciplinary perspectives and the UN Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) to survey and consider the trajectory of fashion sustainability research in Australia over the past decade and to identify key strengths and gaps. This survey culminates in the development of a research agenda for the next decade to 2030.
{"title":"State of play in Australian sustainable fashion research: Current and future directions","authors":"M. Retamal, T. Brydges, S. Sharpe, T. Ferrero-Regis, Deborah Fisher, A. Gwilt, Lisa Lake, Monika Holgar, Rimi Khan, Zoe Nay, A. Payne, Katie Roberts","doi":"10.1386/infs_00083_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/infs_00083_1","url":null,"abstract":"Australian fashion is emblematic of Global North countries with high levels of consumption and waste, dominated by high street fast fashion brands. It also has some unique characteristics as it is located in the Asia-Pacific region – the central production hub of garments – and is a leading producer of quality natural fibres such as cotton and wool. Despite this, Australia has a hollowed-out manufacturing sector that can provide minimal value add to these fibres, and little reuse, remanufacturing or recycling infrastructure for post-consumption garment waste. Ambition for change in the Australian fashion sector is rapidly accelerating with product stewardship initiatives, a modern slavery act and textile waste being designated a priority by the Commonwealth government. Both the policy and industry landscape is evolving. This article reflects on the research landscape of Australian sustainable fashion. The authors of this article draw on multi- and interdisciplinary perspectives and the UN Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) to survey and consider the trajectory of fashion sustainability research in Australia over the past decade and to identify key strengths and gaps. This survey culminates in the development of a research agenda for the next decade to 2030.","PeriodicalId":42103,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Fashion Studies","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2023-01-23","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42000977","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"The Battle of the Hemlines: Clothing and Illness in the Early Twentieth Century","authors":"","doi":"10.38055/sof010104","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.38055/sof010104","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":42103,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Fashion Studies","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2023-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"85576193","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
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