Pub Date : 2020-02-25DOI: 10.1080/03612112.2020.1715675
Kelly L. Reddy-Best, C. Keist, Tameka N. Ellington, Nancy Deihl, Michael Mamp
In 2019, four CSA Scholars’ Roundtable Honorees (Kelly Reddy-Best—Iowa State University, Carmen Keist—Bradley University, Tameka N. Ellington—Kent State University, and Nancy Deihl—New York University) discussed “do we study diversity in dress?” Dr. Michael Mamp (Central Michigan University), a 2018 honoree, moderated the 90-minute session. He started by asking the panelists questions such as “Do we study diversity in dress?” “How does your positionality influence your own research?” and “What suggestions would you provide to CSA members to incorporate diversity when studying dress?” Following these questions, individuals from the 200-person audience offered comments and questions to the panel. In this paper, we provide a verbatim transcription of the session, which took place in Seattle, Washington.
{"title":"Scholars’ Roundtable Presentation","authors":"Kelly L. Reddy-Best, C. Keist, Tameka N. Ellington, Nancy Deihl, Michael Mamp","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2020.1715675","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2020.1715675","url":null,"abstract":"In 2019, four CSA Scholars’ Roundtable Honorees (Kelly Reddy-Best—Iowa State University, Carmen Keist—Bradley University, Tameka N. Ellington—Kent State University, and Nancy Deihl—New York University) discussed “do we study diversity in dress?” Dr. Michael Mamp (Central Michigan University), a 2018 honoree, moderated the 90-minute session. He started by asking the panelists questions such as “Do we study diversity in dress?” “How does your positionality influence your own research?” and “What suggestions would you provide to CSA members to incorporate diversity when studying dress?” Following these questions, individuals from the 200-person audience offered comments and questions to the panel. In this paper, we provide a verbatim transcription of the session, which took place in Seattle, Washington.","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"46 1","pages":"141 - 157"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2020-02-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/03612112.2020.1715675","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"47275689","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2020-01-23DOI: 10.1080/03612112.2019.1686875
Kelly L. Reddy-Best, Dana Goodin
Aspects of our identities such as sexuality and gender are negotiated through style-fashion-dress. We analyzed the recent history of style-fashion-dress through a queer lens by examining how queer identities have been negotiated on and around the body by women in the Midwest region of the United States from the late twentieth century to the present. Based on our research, we created an exhibition using community-participatory practices that allowed us to authentically tell the histories of ten queer-women’s styles. We told stories that reflect some of the long-standing stereotypes of queer woman and the butch-femme dichotomy, but when we unpacked these histories, they more closely aligned with Kaiser and McCullough’s “(k)notty model” metaphor. The women’s garments, styles, and fashions represent the “shifting queer styles” that capture the lived experiences of midwestern queer women in the latter part of the twentieth and early twenty-first centuries.
{"title":"Queer Fashion and Style","authors":"Kelly L. Reddy-Best, Dana Goodin","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2019.1686875","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2019.1686875","url":null,"abstract":"Aspects of our identities such as sexuality and gender are negotiated through style-fashion-dress. We analyzed the recent history of style-fashion-dress through a queer lens by examining how queer identities have been negotiated on and around the body by women in the Midwest region of the United States from the late twentieth century to the present. Based on our research, we created an exhibition using community-participatory practices that allowed us to authentically tell the histories of ten queer-women’s styles. We told stories that reflect some of the long-standing stereotypes of queer woman and the butch-femme dichotomy, but when we unpacked these histories, they more closely aligned with Kaiser and McCullough’s “(k)notty model” metaphor. The women’s garments, styles, and fashions represent the “shifting queer styles” that capture the lived experiences of midwestern queer women in the latter part of the twentieth and early twenty-first centuries.","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"46 1","pages":"115 - 140"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2020-01-23","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/03612112.2019.1686875","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45811325","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2020-01-20DOI: 10.1080/03612112.2019.1683302
M. Couturier
This paper explores the writing and self-presentation practices of Barbara Moon, a respected journalist and magazine editor who worked in Toronto between the 1950s and 1990s. The entry point into this study was a selection of garments donated by Moon to Toronto’s Ryerson Fashion Research Collection in 1997. With a research approach combining material culture, textual, and discourse analyses, connections were drawn between the themes Moon explored in her work, the collection of clothing she chose to archive, and the public commentary around her elegant self-fashioning. Using Moon as a historical case study, this project provides insight into how glamour can be performed, including negotiating gender norms in a male-dominated workplace through fashion and personal appearance.
{"title":"“Elegant, ferocious, witty”: The Professional Glamour of Journalist Barbara Moon (1926–2009)","authors":"M. Couturier","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2019.1683302","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2019.1683302","url":null,"abstract":"This paper explores the writing and self-presentation practices of Barbara Moon, a respected journalist and magazine editor who worked in Toronto between the 1950s and 1990s. The entry point into this study was a selection of garments donated by Moon to Toronto’s Ryerson Fashion Research Collection in 1997. With a research approach combining material culture, textual, and discourse analyses, connections were drawn between the themes Moon explored in her work, the collection of clothing she chose to archive, and the public commentary around her elegant self-fashioning. Using Moon as a historical case study, this project provides insight into how glamour can be performed, including negotiating gender norms in a male-dominated workplace through fashion and personal appearance.","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"46 1","pages":"85 - 101"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2020-01-20","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/03612112.2019.1683302","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"49527021","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2020-01-02DOI: 10.1080/03612112.2019.1707998
Pravina Shukla
Faith and Fashion in Turkey is a study of three contemporary faith-based communities—Gulen, Suleymanli, and Menzil—and how their members communicate religious commitment through their bodies: throu...
{"title":"Faith and Fashion in Turkey: Consumption, Politics and Islamic Identities","authors":"Pravina Shukla","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2019.1707998","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2019.1707998","url":null,"abstract":"Faith and Fashion in Turkey is a study of three contemporary faith-based communities—Gulen, Suleymanli, and Menzil—and how their members communicate religious commitment through their bodies: throu...","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"46 1","pages":"75 - 77"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2020-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/03612112.2019.1707998","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"46029011","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2020-01-02DOI: 10.1080/03612112.2019.1641994
G. Michel
Author and diarist Anaïs Nin was an important figure in feminist literary circles in the 1960s and 1970s. Her diaries, first published in the 1960s, began with her life in France in the early 1930s. The wife of a banker, she lived a comfortable life, free to pursue her writing and bohemian living, including writing extensively on her use of dress to distinguish herself. This report presents the first in-depth examination of Nin’s 1930s diaries and related primary sources from the perspective of dress history and calls for further research into the dress practices of this important literary figure of the twentieth century.
{"title":"“A woman with a hundred faces”","authors":"G. Michel","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2019.1641994","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2019.1641994","url":null,"abstract":"Author and diarist Anaïs Nin was an important figure in feminist literary circles in the 1960s and 1970s. Her diaries, first published in the 1960s, began with her life in France in the early 1930s. The wife of a banker, she lived a comfortable life, free to pursue her writing and bohemian living, including writing extensively on her use of dress to distinguish herself. This report presents the first in-depth examination of Nin’s 1930s diaries and related primary sources from the perspective of dress history and calls for further research into the dress practices of this important literary figure of the twentieth century.","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"46 1","pages":"41 - 52"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2020-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/03612112.2019.1641994","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"44745432","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2020-01-02DOI: 10.1080/03612112.2020.1716543
E. Maeder, J. Borden
{"title":"In Memoriam, Karen Eve Augusta","authors":"E. Maeder, J. Borden","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2020.1716543","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2020.1716543","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"46 1","pages":"83 - 84"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2020-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/03612112.2020.1716543","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"44380763","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2020-01-02DOI: 10.1080/03612112.2020.1716544
Tina Bates
{"title":"Welcome to Vol. 46, No. 1","authors":"Tina Bates","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2020.1716544","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2020.1716544","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"46 1","pages":"i - ii"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2020-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/03612112.2020.1716544","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"47373725","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2020-01-02DOI: 10.1080/03612112.2019.1649352
N. Martin, Connie Ulasewicz
Early nineteenth-century Germans—emigrating first to Russia and then in the late nineteenth century to America—expressed a cultural contradiction in their dress, affirming pride in their ancestral home but also a willingness to selectively adopt items from the surrounding environment. Evidence suggests that while in Russia, their communities had been segregated both by choice and by dictate within an ethnically diverse population. Six garments, located in North Dakota—the final stop in their double diaspora, were studied to define their apparel choices and whether they had remained unchanged or affected by surrounding cultures while in Russia. The items revealed a gendered mixture that both retained traditional German dress practices but also adopted convenient choices from the cultures around them. All the items affirmed the German-Russian experience of Heimat—an intense pride in their Germanic heritage coupled with a unique affection and homesickness for their adopted Russian fatherland.
{"title":"“Ach, Gott, yes, I wish I was back in Russia”","authors":"N. Martin, Connie Ulasewicz","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2019.1649352","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2019.1649352","url":null,"abstract":"Early nineteenth-century Germans—emigrating first to Russia and then in the late nineteenth century to America—expressed a cultural contradiction in their dress, affirming pride in their ancestral home but also a willingness to selectively adopt items from the surrounding environment. Evidence suggests that while in Russia, their communities had been segregated both by choice and by dictate within an ethnically diverse population. Six garments, located in North Dakota—the final stop in their double diaspora, were studied to define their apparel choices and whether they had remained unchanged or affected by surrounding cultures while in Russia. The items revealed a gendered mixture that both retained traditional German dress practices but also adopted convenient choices from the cultures around them. All the items affirmed the German-Russian experience of Heimat—an intense pride in their Germanic heritage coupled with a unique affection and homesickness for their adopted Russian fatherland.","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"46 1","pages":"23 - 40"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2020-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/03612112.2019.1649352","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"41900420","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2020-01-02DOI: 10.1080/03612112.2019.1707988
Laurie Kurutz
{"title":"Fierce: The History of Leopard Print","authors":"Laurie Kurutz","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2019.1707988","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2019.1707988","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"46 1","pages":"79 - 81"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2020-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/03612112.2019.1707988","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42275532","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2020-01-02DOI: 10.1080/03612112.2019.1707990
E. Davenport
“We are a small and scattered group, with no identity cards, and no journal to call our own” (3).And thus, editors Joanne B. Eicher and Brent Luvaas describe anthropologists with an interest in dre...
{"title":"The Anthropology of Dress and Fashion: A Reader","authors":"E. Davenport","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2019.1707990","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2019.1707990","url":null,"abstract":"“We are a small and scattered group, with no identity cards, and no journal to call our own” (3).And thus, editors Joanne B. Eicher and Brent Luvaas describe anthropologists with an interest in dre...","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"46 1","pages":"67 - 69"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2020-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/03612112.2019.1707990","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45271569","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
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