Pub Date : 2021-01-02DOI: 10.1080/03612112.2021.1874190
Kelly Mann
pastel-colored beach scene with a pink sun umbrella, these swimwear pieces stood opposite a collection of various works by Chanel, Hanae Mori, and Alice Edeling, among others. These pieces, displayed on a set of risers in front of a mod-inspired backdrop, represented design that acknowledged and promoted women’s increasingly active lifestyles and independence in the 1960s (FIGURE 3). The final gallery section, entitled “Designing for Change,” introduced fashion as a medium for social commentary and political change. Pieces by Frankie Welch, Vivienne Westwood, and Ann Demeulemeester appeared alongside works by Vivienne Tam (FIGURE 4), Natalie Chanin, and Jamie Okuma to illustrate how women designers have met diverse challenges head on with insightful and creative solutions, giving voice to concepts of diversity, acceptance, social responsibility, and collaboration. The open displays lent an expansive feeling to the gallery, while judicial use of spot color and additional visuals allowed the focus to remain on the garments. Although mention is made of women designing pants, only a few pants or trousers appeared within the pieces. Most information panels were text-heavy, and I did not have enough time to read each one, with only one hour in the gallery. I seemed more drawn to the large wall texts, but I purchased the exhibition catalogue, which includes essays on most of the individual designers. The mannequins were abstract or headless, in varying colors,or headless, in varying colors, from matte white to dark brown and almost black. Garments were displayed simply with no accessories such as hats, jewelry, or shoes. This may be due to FIGURE 3 Gallery view “Making Choices,” exhibition, Made It: The Women Who Revolutionized Fashion, 2020. Peabody Essex Museum. 110 DRESS VOLUME 47, NUMBER 1, 2021
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Pub Date : 2021-01-02DOI: 10.1080/03612112.2021.1857561
Dyese L. Matthews, Kelly L. Reddy-Best
In Dressed in Dreams: A Black Girl’s Love Letter to the Power of Fashion, Tanisha Ford PhD, Professor of History at the CUNY Graduate Center in New York City, takes the reader on a journey through her life with a fashion studies lens. Ford, who was born in 1979, draws upon her personal memories to tell indepth stories of the significant role fashion played in her life as a Black woman coming of age in Fort Wayne, Indiana. Each chapter is centered around one article of clothing or style of appearance, including a dashiki, leather jacket, Jheri curl, tennis shoes, baggy jeans, coochie cutters, knee-high boots, bamboo earrings, afro puff, hoodie, and designer handbag. The book is a story of how fashion allowed Ford to “feel things. All the things” (3). Throughout the text, she
在《Dressed In Dreams:A Black Girl’s Love Letter to the Power of Fashion》一书中，纽约市立大学研究生中心历史教授Tanisha Ford博士以时尚研究的视角带领读者踏上了她的人生旅程。福特出生于1979年，她利用自己的个人记忆，深入讲述了时尚在印第安纳州韦恩堡长大的黑人女性生活中扮演的重要角色。每一章都围绕着一件衣服或外观风格展开，包括dashiki、皮夹克、Jheri卷发、网球鞋、宽松牛仔裤、coochie裁剪机、过膝长靴、竹耳环、非洲泡芙、连帽衫和名牌手提包。这本书讲述了时尚如何让福特“感受事物。所有的事物”（3）。在整个文本中，她
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Pub Date : 2020-12-18DOI: 10.1080/03612112.2020.1833537
Kenna Libes
Iridescent, color-shifting beetle wing casings have been embroidered onto dress around the world for centuries. This paper explores a variation of the practice from its roots in Mughal-era India through its translocation and transformation by English dressmakers during the East India Company and colonial eras. This paper considers the first recorded English women to wear such garments, how and where they were made, and the intersections of fashion, exhibition, and naturalism. By examining extant textiles made for use in both countries , this paper asserts that the English-speaking world, influenced by its colonial sensibilities, appropriated and implemented a new style of beetle-wing embroidery.
{"title":"“Glory in a Host of Entomological Spoils”","authors":"Kenna Libes","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2020.1833537","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2020.1833537","url":null,"abstract":"Iridescent, color-shifting beetle wing casings have been embroidered onto dress around the world for centuries. This paper explores a variation of the practice from its roots in Mughal-era India through its translocation and transformation by English dressmakers during the East India Company and colonial eras. This paper considers the first recorded English women to wear such garments, how and where they were made, and the intersections of fashion, exhibition, and naturalism. By examining extant textiles made for use in both countries , this paper asserts that the English-speaking world, influenced by its colonial sensibilities, appropriated and implemented a new style of beetle-wing embroidery.","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"47 1","pages":"79 - 94"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2020-12-18","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/03612112.2020.1833537","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42842099","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2020-10-19DOI: 10.1080/03612112.2020.1787606
H. Kurtz
Howard Vincent Kurtz, BFA, MFA is Professor Emeritus, School of Theater, George Mason University, Fairfax, Virginia, where he was the resident costume designer for their professional theater compan...
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Pub Date : 2020-10-10DOI: 10.1080/03612112.2020.1787595
Eanna Morrison Barrs
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Pub Date : 2020-10-08DOI: 10.1080/03612112.2020.1799551
L. Baumgarten
Although eighteenth-century quilted petticoats consisted of simple rectangular panels sewn into tubes and pleated to narrow waistbands, the stitched patterns of these decorative skirts offered a wide variety of design options for the wearers. Using computer-assisted-design line drawings, scholars can more easily compare the stitching patterns and categorize the quilting by date and location. This article presents previously unpublished designs and new historical discoveries in quilted petticoats since the publication of “The Layered Look, Design in Eighteenth-Century Quilted Petticoats” in Dress 34 (2007). This study focuses on five sub-themes: British professionally drawn and constructed quilting, cord-quilted examples that have a round stamp on the reverse, regionalism in two areas—Philadelphia and New England, and pieced striped petticoats.
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Pub Date : 2020-10-08DOI: 10.1080/03612112.2020.1799568
Virginia Rolling, Karla P. Teel
Recently, electronic dresses have been displayed as museum art objects for aesthetic evaluation. This cultural phenomenon was explored by determining museum visitors’ aesthetic experiences in viewing a dress with and without added electronics. Using a qualitative grounded-theory approach, the authors interviewed forty-four millennial participants during different viewings of the dress. Interview data results support that participants viewed apparel without digital music or colored LED lights as fashion, apparel with digital music as art, and apparel with colored LED lights as costume. This research is helpful for diverse fields such as apparel marketing and design, performing arts, and art museums.
{"title":"Perceptions of an Electronic Dress as Fashion, Art, and Costume","authors":"Virginia Rolling, Karla P. Teel","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2020.1799568","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2020.1799568","url":null,"abstract":"Recently, electronic dresses have been displayed as museum art objects for aesthetic evaluation. This cultural phenomenon was explored by determining museum visitors’ aesthetic experiences in viewing a dress with and without added electronics. Using a qualitative grounded-theory approach, the authors interviewed forty-four millennial participants during different viewings of the dress. Interview data results support that participants viewed apparel without digital music or colored LED lights as fashion, apparel with digital music as art, and apparel with colored LED lights as costume. This research is helpful for diverse fields such as apparel marketing and design, performing arts, and art museums.","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"47 1","pages":"167 - 179"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2020-10-08","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/03612112.2020.1799568","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"59433871","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2020-07-27DOI: 10.1080/03612112.2020.1787647
J. Parsons
Dr. Jean Parsons is a highly accomplished designer, dress historian, and educator. Her extensive list of publications and exhibited design work demonstrates a broad-based approach to the study of d...
Jean Parsons博士是一位非常有成就的设计师、服装历史学家和教育家。她大量的出版物和展出的设计作品展示了一种广泛的方法来研究…
{"title":"Costume Society of America Fellow 2020 Jean Louise Parsons","authors":"J. Parsons","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2020.1787647","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2020.1787647","url":null,"abstract":"Dr. Jean Parsons is a highly accomplished designer, dress historian, and educator. Her extensive list of publications and exhibited design work demonstrates a broad-based approach to the study of d...","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"46 1","pages":"187 - 188"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2020-07-27","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/03612112.2020.1787647","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"49022793","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2020-07-03DOI: 10.1080/03612112.2020.1787649
Elaine L. Pedersen
Elaine is one of the unsung heroes of our discipline. She is not one to seek the spotlight; however, she is absolutely deserving of becoming a CSA Fellow. Her teaching, mentoring, scholarship, and ...
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