Pub Date : 2020-07-02DOI: 10.1080/03612112.2020.1787586
Coleen Scott
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Pub Date : 2020-07-02DOI: 10.1080/03612112.2020.1787588
Julia Petrov
{"title":"Fashion, History, Museums Inventing the Display of Dress","authors":"Julia Petrov","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2020.1787588","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2020.1787588","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"46 1","pages":"163 - 165"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2020-07-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/03612112.2020.1787588","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"48259594","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2020-07-02DOI: 10.1080/03612112.2020.1787605
June Burns Bové
when i think of my students, some now my colleagues and others remarkable for achievements in the world of dress, Anne Bissonnette comes right to mind. Nearly thirty years ago, I met Ann when I tau...
{"title":"Costume Society of America Fellow 2020 Anne Bissonnette","authors":"June Burns Bové","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2020.1787605","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2020.1787605","url":null,"abstract":"when i think of my students, some now my colleagues and others remarkable for achievements in the world of dress, Anne Bissonnette comes right to mind. Nearly thirty years ago, I met Ann when I tau...","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"46 1","pages":"183 - 184"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2020-07-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/03612112.2020.1787605","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"47595473","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2020-07-02DOI: 10.1080/03612112.2020.1821510
Tina Bates
{"title":"Welcome to Vol. 46, No. 2","authors":"Tina Bates","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2020.1821510","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2020.1821510","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"46 1","pages":"(i) - (ii)"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2020-07-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/03612112.2020.1821510","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43762696","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2020-07-02DOI: 10.1080/03612112.2020.1787594
Julia Petrov
Located in Salem, Massachusetts, the Peabody Essex Museum (PEM) is America’s oldest continuously operating museum, displaying the arts and treasures of the city and its historic trading partners, c...
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Pub Date : 2020-06-16DOI: 10.1080/03612112.2020.1756591
Salilah Saidun, E. Akhmetova, Amilah binti Awang Abd Rahman
This study describes the efforts of Hospital Pusrawi Sdn Bhd, Malaysia, to integrate local culture, religion, and standards of good nursing practices in the design of its nursing uniform from 1984 until 2018. The study is based on the analysis of the hospital’s institutional archives and on interviews with retired or senior nurses and administrators. The hospital’s endeavor in integrating culture, religion, and nursing practice proved to be challenging due to their contradictory natures. Clinical dress code recommends short sleeves to facilitate hand hygiene and infection control, the use of non-dangling attire to prevent cross-contamination, and non-movement-restrictive workwear whereas Malay-Muslim women prefer long sleeves, headscarves, and ankle-length skirts. The strategies used to overcome the challenges may serve as potential exemplary solutions for other healthcare institutions that are motivated to accommodate the religious or cultural clothing needs of their staff members without compromising the standards of good practices in healthcare.
本研究描述了马来西亚Pusrawi Sdn Bhd医院从1984年到2018年在护理制服设计中融入当地文化、宗教和良好护理实践标准的努力。这项研究是基于对医院机构档案的分析，以及对退休或高级护士和管理人员的采访。由于文化、宗教和护理实践的矛盾性质，医院在整合文化、宗教和护理实践方面的努力被证明是具有挑战性的。临床着装规范建议使用短袖以促进手部卫生和感染控制，使用不悬挂的服装以防止交叉污染，以及不限制活动的工作服，而马来穆斯林妇女则喜欢长袖、头巾和及脚踝的裙子。用于克服这些挑战的战略可以作为其他医疗保健机构的潜在示范解决方案，这些机构有动力在不损害医疗保健良好做法标准的情况下满足其工作人员的宗教或文化服装需求。
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Pub Date : 2020-06-09DOI: 10.1080/03612112.2020.1741248
Monica Sklar, C. Barrow, Paige Leone
This research documents the development of Motown Records’ clothing image, including how garments were selected, produced, worn, and cared for. The African American-owned record label did not overtly make political statements, and whether their visual presentation was a strategy to participate in or lead social-cultural conversations is undocumented; regardless, this impact happened through the perceptions the public had of their style. The uniforms of the performers were important to Motown’s impact and record sales. To create the Motown look, the label was faced with challenges such as establishing budgets for artists of varied success levels and choosing which fashion trends to follow, as well as appealing to demographically diverse audiences during the socially contentious era of the 1960s civil rights movement. This study used primary sources including interviews with musicians and stylists, museum clothing collections and exhibitions, and discussions with curators and collection managers, as well as a secondary review of literature.
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Pub Date : 2020-05-21DOI: 10.1080/03612112.2020.1749479
Joshua D. Simon, Michael Mamp
This paper offers new perspectives on the sartorial style of the Gibson Girl archetype, the ideal of feminine beauty at the turn of the twentieth century, and its reinterpretation and prevalence post-World War II. We explore this nostalgic resurgence of turn-of-the-century style, identify which characteristics defined it, and examine its dissemination across the fashion industry. From the couture designs of Dior and Schiaparelli to sew-at-home patterns like those offered by Butterick, Simplicity, and McCall, the resurgence of the Gibson Girl’s sartorial style influenced fashion and gained further popularity through presentations in film, theater, and retail merchandising.
{"title":"“Nostalgic Elegance”","authors":"Joshua D. Simon, Michael Mamp","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2020.1749479","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2020.1749479","url":null,"abstract":"This paper offers new perspectives on the sartorial style of the Gibson Girl archetype, the ideal of feminine beauty at the turn of the twentieth century, and its reinterpretation and prevalence post-World War II. We explore this nostalgic resurgence of turn-of-the-century style, identify which characteristics defined it, and examine its dissemination across the fashion industry. From the couture designs of Dior and Schiaparelli to sew-at-home patterns like those offered by Butterick, Simplicity, and McCall, the resurgence of the Gibson Girl’s sartorial style influenced fashion and gained further popularity through presentations in film, theater, and retail merchandising.","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"47 1","pages":"61 - 77"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2020-05-21","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/03612112.2020.1749479","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"48064971","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2020-04-19DOI: 10.1080/03612112.2020.1735783
D. Marks
The Guna (Kuna) Indians, an indigenous people living in Panama and Colombia, are well known because of the mola blouses worn by Guna women. The mola is part of their dress ensemble that evolved over the second half of the nineteenth century. The history of this ensemble could be explained by a process of cultural authentication, a concept developed by Eicher and Erekosima in the 1980s and previously applied to the mola blouse. This paper proposes that an important influence of the addition of the headscarf and wrap skirt is related to a close affinity of Guna women with indentured East Indian women in the Caribbean as a result of the close Guna ties with Jamaica. This research highlights the cultural response of non-western women to outsiders and strengthens the notion that studies of cross-cultural adaptation benefit from the study of dress history.
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Pub Date : 2020-03-16DOI: 10.1080/03612112.2020.1712124
C. Tremain
Translucent or “sheer” textiles are uncommon representations in ancient Maya art. Where they have been recognized, they almost exclusively are associated with females. A vase in the American Museum of Natural History in New York demonstrates translucent textiles worn by males and is perhaps the first recognized example of males wearing such textiles on ancient Maya painted ceramics. Visual inspection of the vase under magnification and ultraviolet light indicates that the original artist of the vase intended the textiles to be translucent, confirming that their “sheer” representation was intentional. This evidence adds to the limited repertoire of translucent textiles worn by males in the ancient Maya world.
{"title":"Research Report","authors":"C. Tremain","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2020.1712124","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2020.1712124","url":null,"abstract":"Translucent or “sheer” textiles are uncommon representations in ancient Maya art. Where they have been recognized, they almost exclusively are associated with females. A vase in the American Museum of Natural History in New York demonstrates translucent textiles worn by males and is perhaps the first recognized example of males wearing such textiles on ancient Maya painted ceramics. Visual inspection of the vase under magnification and ultraviolet light indicates that the original artist of the vase intended the textiles to be translucent, confirming that their “sheer” representation was intentional. This evidence adds to the limited repertoire of translucent textiles worn by males in the ancient Maya world.","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"46 1","pages":"103 - 113"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2020-03-16","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/03612112.2020.1712124","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"49470444","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
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