Pub Date : 2020-01-02DOI: 10.1080/00404969.2020.1741200
Nicholas R. Amor
{"title":"Peter Maunder, Tiverton Cloth: The Story of the Town's Woollen Trade 1475–1815","authors":"Nicholas R. Amor","doi":"10.1080/00404969.2020.1741200","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00404969.2020.1741200","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":43311,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE HISTORY","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2020-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/00404969.2020.1741200","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"49162457","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2020-01-02DOI: 10.1080/00404969.2020.1741208
J. Halbert
{"title":"Pam Inder, The Rag Trade: The People Who Made Our Clothes","authors":"J. Halbert","doi":"10.1080/00404969.2020.1741208","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00404969.2020.1741208","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":43311,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE HISTORY","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2020-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/00404969.2020.1741208","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45588723","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2020-01-02DOI: 10.1080/00404969.2020.1743930
Małgorzata Możdżyńska-Nawotka
The article has a double focus: explaining the so-far obscure origins of children’s fashion in the later eighteenth century and putting its emergence in the context of the ‘grand narrative’ concerning the ‘discovery of childhood’ during this pivotal period. Contrary to Rousseau’s famous dismissal of the hussar suit, the role of ‘fancy dress’ inspiration in the development of children’s fashions for the first time purposefully meant to distinguish the (male) child from the grown-ups and, concurrent with the Enlightenment’s ideas on childhood, emerges as central rather than marginal. The repertory of styles adopted for boys’ wear is shown to have been inspired by various ethnic and historical dress traditions rooted in the fascination with masquerade characteristic of the Rococo culture but harnessed to express the emerging new attitudes. Among them, special attention is given to inspirations by Polish national dress. Second, the article takes on the argument presented by Daniel Thomas Cook in his inspiring article in Textile History, 42, no. 1 (2011). Having acknowledged the foundational role of fashion history in the emergence of childhood studies, Cook regards its present status as peripheral. He dismisses the underlying premise of its principal ‘grand narrative’ as based on a fruitless distinction between utility (and functionality) and fashion rather than the invention or discovery of the ‘child’ and ‘childhood’. While partially accepting Cook’s criticism, the article argues that the ‘grand narrative’, thus modified and expanded, retains its usefulness. In the nineteenth century, the ‘fancy dress’ and ‘playfulness’ theme continued, reflected in the most popular children’s styles (sailor suit, Little Lord Fauntleroy suit) and a range of others, temporarily or locally prominent, and intertwining with multifarious cultural, artistic, social and commercial developments.
{"title":"Dressed ‘as if for a Carnival’: Solving the Mystery of the Origins of Children’s Fashion. A New Perspective on the History and Historiography of Children’s Dress","authors":"Małgorzata Możdżyńska-Nawotka","doi":"10.1080/00404969.2020.1743930","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00404969.2020.1743930","url":null,"abstract":"The article has a double focus: explaining the so-far obscure origins of children’s fashion in the later eighteenth century and putting its emergence in the context of the ‘grand narrative’ concerning the ‘discovery of childhood’ during this pivotal period. Contrary to Rousseau’s famous dismissal of the hussar suit, the role of ‘fancy dress’ inspiration in the development of children’s fashions for the first time purposefully meant to distinguish the (male) child from the grown-ups and, concurrent with the Enlightenment’s ideas on childhood, emerges as central rather than marginal. The repertory of styles adopted for boys’ wear is shown to have been inspired by various ethnic and historical dress traditions rooted in the fascination with masquerade characteristic of the Rococo culture but harnessed to express the emerging new attitudes. Among them, special attention is given to inspirations by Polish national dress. Second, the article takes on the argument presented by Daniel Thomas Cook in his inspiring article in Textile History, 42, no. 1 (2011). Having acknowledged the foundational role of fashion history in the emergence of childhood studies, Cook regards its present status as peripheral. He dismisses the underlying premise of its principal ‘grand narrative’ as based on a fruitless distinction between utility (and functionality) and fashion rather than the invention or discovery of the ‘child’ and ‘childhood’. While partially accepting Cook’s criticism, the article argues that the ‘grand narrative’, thus modified and expanded, retains its usefulness. In the nineteenth century, the ‘fancy dress’ and ‘playfulness’ theme continued, reflected in the most popular children’s styles (sailor suit, Little Lord Fauntleroy suit) and a range of others, temporarily or locally prominent, and intertwining with multifarious cultural, artistic, social and commercial developments.","PeriodicalId":43311,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE HISTORY","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2020-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/00404969.2020.1743930","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"41855843","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2020-01-02DOI: 10.1080/00404969.2020.1764792
{"title":"Pasold Research Fund/Taylor & Francis Textile History Open Access First Publication Award","authors":"","doi":"10.1080/00404969.2020.1764792","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00404969.2020.1764792","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":43311,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE HISTORY","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2020-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/00404969.2020.1764792","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45012836","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2019-07-03DOI: 10.1080/00404969.2019.1646622
C. Fowler
This essay reconstructs the circumstances surrounding the display of Dun Emer textiles in America at the 1904 St Louis World’s Fair and two Irish fairs in New York, held in 1905 and 1907. The essay...
{"title":"Transatlantic Textiles: Ireland’s Dun Emer Textiles in America During the First Decade of the Twentieth Century","authors":"C. Fowler","doi":"10.1080/00404969.2019.1646622","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00404969.2019.1646622","url":null,"abstract":"This essay reconstructs the circumstances surrounding the display of Dun Emer textiles in America at the 1904 St Louis World’s Fair and two Irish fairs in New York, held in 1905 and 1907. The essay...","PeriodicalId":43311,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE HISTORY","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2019-07-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/00404969.2019.1646622","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"49080902","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2019-07-03DOI: 10.1080/00404969.2019.1665799
{"title":"Pasold Research Fund/Taylor & Francis Textile History Open Access First Publication Award","authors":"","doi":"10.1080/00404969.2019.1665799","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00404969.2019.1665799","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":43311,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE HISTORY","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2019-07-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/00404969.2019.1665799","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"41862908","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2019-07-03DOI: 10.1080/00404969.2019.1653638
A. Hood
. The article presents artistic projects in which the issue of gender is actualized. The above was carried out from the position of post-humanist ideas through the study of the impact of the development of technologies on modern socio-cultural processes. Thus, the projects created in different genres were analyzed, including post-cinema (“Night Walk for Edinburgh”, “A Total Jizzfest”) aimed at chang-ing gender perceptions in society, Ellen Pearlman’s opera “Emotionally intelligent” Artificially Intelligent Brainwave Opera” (AIBO), in which, thanks to the involvement of artificial intelligence as an actor, gender opposition is reinforced. The Female Laptop Orchestra (FLO) project is dedicated to the support of female creativity, which, thanks to the involvement of information and communication tools, com-bines music creation with research in its activity. An important aspect of the considered projects is defined as interactivity, which is im-plemented by involving the viewer in the process of their creation. It was found that, on the one hand, the digital virtual space made it possible to reduce the importance of social roles or gender affili-ation, thereby leveling the stereotype of the opposition between the author’s masculinity and femininity. On the other hand, with the development of machine learning technologies, a new opposition between the human author and the artificial intelligence in the same ca-pacity is gradually emerging.
{"title":"Gender","authors":"A. Hood","doi":"10.1080/00404969.2019.1653638","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00404969.2019.1653638","url":null,"abstract":". The article presents artistic projects in which the issue of gender is actualized. The above was carried out from the position of post-humanist ideas through the study of the impact of the development of technologies on modern socio-cultural processes. Thus, the projects created in different genres were analyzed, including post-cinema (“Night Walk for Edinburgh”, “A Total Jizzfest”) aimed at chang-ing gender perceptions in society, Ellen Pearlman’s opera “Emotionally intelligent” Artificially Intelligent Brainwave Opera” (AIBO), in which, thanks to the involvement of artificial intelligence as an actor, gender opposition is reinforced. The Female Laptop Orchestra (FLO) project is dedicated to the support of female creativity, which, thanks to the involvement of information and communication tools, com-bines music creation with research in its activity. An important aspect of the considered projects is defined as interactivity, which is im-plemented by involving the viewer in the process of their creation. It was found that, on the one hand, the digital virtual space made it possible to reduce the importance of social roles or gender affili-ation, thereby leveling the stereotype of the opposition between the author’s masculinity and femininity. On the other hand, with the development of machine learning technologies, a new opposition between the human author and the artificial intelligence in the same ca-pacity is gradually emerging.","PeriodicalId":43311,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE HISTORY","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2019-07-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/00404969.2019.1653638","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"46837998","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2019-07-03DOI: 10.1080/00404969.2019.1653648
L. Taylor
{"title":"Zuzana Šidliková, Lost (m)ODE, Clothing Culture in Slovakia from 1945 to 1989","authors":"L. Taylor","doi":"10.1080/00404969.2019.1653648","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00404969.2019.1653648","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":43311,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE HISTORY","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2019-07-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/00404969.2019.1653648","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43864519","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2019-07-03DOI: 10.1080/00404969.2019.1646987
R. Mearns
The double portrait of Mary Tudor, sister of King Henry VIII of England, and Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk, has traditionally been dated to 1515. This attribution has led the portrait to be widely regarded as the earliest depiction of the style of headdress known as a French hood being worn by a member of the English court. However, the date of 1515 does not take into account the circumstances surrounding the marriage of the two sitters, circumstances that would have prevented the portrait from being commissioned at this time. It also ignores features of the sitters’ attire, which display elements of later 1530s fashions. Using both documentary and pictorial evidence, this paper will seek to propose a later creation date of 1532, establish a different reading of the portrait and reassess our understanding of the French hood at the English court in the early sixteenth century.
{"title":"Material Messages: A Reassessment of the Double Portrait of Mary Tudor and Charles Brandon","authors":"R. Mearns","doi":"10.1080/00404969.2019.1646987","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00404969.2019.1646987","url":null,"abstract":"The double portrait of Mary Tudor, sister of King Henry VIII of England, and Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk, has traditionally been dated to 1515. This attribution has led the portrait to be widely regarded as the earliest depiction of the style of headdress known as a French hood being worn by a member of the English court. However, the date of 1515 does not take into account the circumstances surrounding the marriage of the two sitters, circumstances that would have prevented the portrait from being commissioned at this time. It also ignores features of the sitters’ attire, which display elements of later 1530s fashions. Using both documentary and pictorial evidence, this paper will seek to propose a later creation date of 1532, establish a different reading of the portrait and reassess our understanding of the French hood at the English court in the early sixteenth century.","PeriodicalId":43311,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE HISTORY","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2019-07-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/00404969.2019.1646987","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45907251","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
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