P. Brauner, Luisa Vervier, M. Ziefle, Melina Sachtleben, S. Schlichter, T. Gries
Circular Economy approaches are increasingly recognized as a solution also in the textile industry to foster a world-wide call to action in terms of sustainable production, sale, use, and recycling of materials and products. When supported by technical, economic, and political systems, such efforts help to integrate more efficient process-es and production lines as well as to maintain valuable materials and components for re-use and re-cycling, to target closed material cycles, develop or re-arrange production chains, and reframe consumption behaviors. In this paper we focus on clothing from a circular economy perspective. Textiles are the number two consumer goods market worldwide. Production, sale, use, and recycling of clothing must be better synchronized to increase sustainability. However, social factors and existing behaviors often affect these sustainable endeavors on different levels. Clothing is progressively regarded as a low-quality single-use-like object in a fast fashion world, discarded after only a few wears. Whilst it is also generally considered a personal item with individual attributions, not easily shared, or borrowed. Individual attributions of value and sensitivity, as well as technical barriers conflict with the requirements of longest possible use and subsequent reuse, and recycling. New concepts of ownership, sharing, pricing, and renting such as deposit trousers challenge the market and consumer sensibilities. In this article, we describe the opportunities and challenges of socially accepted circular economy approaches for clothing, conflicting technical, economic, and social forces that limit their viability, and outline strategies and an interdisciplinary research agenda to overcome these challenges.
{"title":"Clothing-as-a-service? – A research agenda towards a sustainable and socially accepted Circular Economy of Clothing","authors":"P. Brauner, Luisa Vervier, M. Ziefle, Melina Sachtleben, S. Schlichter, T. Gries","doi":"10.54941/ahfe1001551","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.54941/ahfe1001551","url":null,"abstract":"Circular Economy approaches are increasingly recognized as a solution also in the textile industry to foster a world-wide call to action in terms of sustainable production, sale, use, and recycling of materials and products. When supported by technical, economic, and political systems, such efforts help to integrate more efficient process-es and production lines as well as to maintain valuable materials and components for re-use and re-cycling, to target closed material cycles, develop or re-arrange production chains, and reframe consumption behaviors. In this paper we focus on clothing from a circular economy perspective. Textiles are the number two consumer goods market worldwide. Production, sale, use, and recycling of clothing must be better synchronized to increase sustainability. However, social factors and existing behaviors often affect these sustainable endeavors on different levels. Clothing is progressively regarded as a low-quality single-use-like object in a fast fashion world, discarded after only a few wears. Whilst it is also generally considered a personal item with individual attributions, not easily shared, or borrowed. Individual attributions of value and sensitivity, as well as technical barriers conflict with the requirements of longest possible use and subsequent reuse, and recycling. New concepts of ownership, sharing, pricing, and renting such as deposit trousers challenge the market and consumer sensibilities. In this article, we describe the opportunities and challenges of socially accepted circular economy approaches for clothing, conflicting technical, economic, and social forces that limit their viability, and outline strategies and an interdisciplinary research agenda to overcome these challenges.","PeriodicalId":448346,"journal":{"name":"Human Factors for Apparel and Textile Engineering","volume":"7 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"1900-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"121195847","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Hernan Espejo, Lloyd Morris, Carlos Cachimuel, J. Segura
Lighting engineering, the science in charge of determining the necessary lev-els of illumination in the spaces destined to the development of daily activi-ties, considers that in industry, optimal levels of illumination allow activities to develop in an adequate environment, in addition to increasing the well-being of the employees and, consequently, increasing the productivity of the companies; Several studies have been conducted worldwide related to the analysis of lighting in different work activities, showing that it is an aspect to be improved in workplaces, it has also been identified that the lack of light-ing has a substantial impact on the psychophysiological processes of vision, so the objective of this study is to develop a systematic proposal to identify the level of lighting in industries engaged in garment manufacturing and pro-pose a scheme to ensure adequate levels of lighting, for this, the procedures provided in the Mexican Official Standard are applied: NOM-025-STPS-2008, for the luminotechnical study and the results are compared with the Spanish Standard: UNE-EN 12464-1:2022, identifying a 50 52% of non-compliance with the expected standard; from the diagnosis a lighting pro-posal is developed using the software DIALux evo 8. 2 software for design and simulation. From the expected results, it is estimated that with the im-plementation of the proposal, 100% compliance with the required lighting standards will be achieved, energy productivity will be increased by 462% in the application area and, according to other research, the labor welfare of employees will be improved by 40% thanks to adequate levels of brightness in their workstations, as well as the reduction of visual discomfort.
照明工程是一门负责确定日常活动发展空间中必要照明水平的科学，认为在工业中，最佳照明水平允许活动在适当的环境中发展，除了增加员工的福利，从而提高公司的生产力;在世界范围内进行了几项与分析不同工作活动中的照明有关的研究，表明这是工作场所需要改进的一个方面，也已确定缺乏照明对视觉的心理生理过程有重大影响。因此，本研究的目的是制定一个系统的建议，以确定从事服装制造行业的照明水平，并提出一个方案，以确保足够的照明水平，为此，应用墨西哥官方标准中提供的程序:NOM-025-STPS-2008，用于照明技术研究，并将结果与西班牙标准:UNE-EN 12464-1:2022进行比较，确定50%的不符合预期标准;根据诊断结果，利用DIALux evo 8软件开发了照明方案。2 .软件设计与仿真。从预期的结果来看，据估计，随着提案的实施，将实现100%符合所需的照明标准，应用区域的能源生产率将提高462%，根据其他研究，由于工作站的亮度足够，员工的劳动福利将提高40%，并减少视觉不适。
{"title":"Lighting applied to textile industries to increase the welfare of personnel and business productivity","authors":"Hernan Espejo, Lloyd Morris, Carlos Cachimuel, J. Segura","doi":"10.54941/ahfe1001558","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.54941/ahfe1001558","url":null,"abstract":"Lighting engineering, the science in charge of determining the necessary lev-els of illumination in the spaces destined to the development of daily activi-ties, considers that in industry, optimal levels of illumination allow activities to develop in an adequate environment, in addition to increasing the well-being of the employees and, consequently, increasing the productivity of the companies; Several studies have been conducted worldwide related to the analysis of lighting in different work activities, showing that it is an aspect to be improved in workplaces, it has also been identified that the lack of light-ing has a substantial impact on the psychophysiological processes of vision, so the objective of this study is to develop a systematic proposal to identify the level of lighting in industries engaged in garment manufacturing and pro-pose a scheme to ensure adequate levels of lighting, for this, the procedures provided in the Mexican Official Standard are applied: NOM-025-STPS-2008, for the luminotechnical study and the results are compared with the Spanish Standard: UNE-EN 12464-1:2022, identifying a 50 52% of non-compliance with the expected standard; from the diagnosis a lighting pro-posal is developed using the software DIALux evo 8. 2 software for design and simulation. From the expected results, it is estimated that with the im-plementation of the proposal, 100% compliance with the required lighting standards will be achieved, energy productivity will be increased by 462% in the application area and, according to other research, the labor welfare of employees will be improved by 40% thanks to adequate levels of brightness in their workstations, as well as the reduction of visual discomfort.","PeriodicalId":448346,"journal":{"name":"Human Factors for Apparel and Textile Engineering","volume":"21 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"1900-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"122829266","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Xinbo Wu, Rong Liu, Mohammad Mohiuddin Choudhury, Hung Kay Daniel Chow, Chongyang Ye, Hoi Hung Ho
This study investigated the thermal mapping of the young male bodies following different physical exercises based on a designed experimental protocol. Thermal mappings of the male subjects when being resting, walking, and running for 48 minutes were recorded at the determined timelines using a digital infrared thermal detection system. The anterior and posterior body of the subject was divided into 54 specific zones. The experimental results indicated the body zones with the higher surface temperatures and the largest variations when performed protocoled exercises. The body sweating mapping was also visualized. The study method and outcomes provide a valuable reference for structure and material design of the functional / intelligent sensing garment system used for sports or physical exercises.
{"title":"Infrared Thermal Mapping of Young Male Body following Different Physical Exercises","authors":"Xinbo Wu, Rong Liu, Mohammad Mohiuddin Choudhury, Hung Kay Daniel Chow, Chongyang Ye, Hoi Hung Ho","doi":"10.54941/ahfe1001535","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.54941/ahfe1001535","url":null,"abstract":"This study investigated the thermal mapping of the young male bodies following different physical exercises based on a designed experimental protocol. Thermal mappings of the male subjects when being resting, walking, and running for 48 minutes were recorded at the determined timelines using a digital infrared thermal detection system. The anterior and posterior body of the subject was divided into 54 specific zones. The experimental results indicated the body zones with the higher surface temperatures and the largest variations when performed protocoled exercises. The body sweating mapping was also visualized. The study method and outcomes provide a valuable reference for structure and material design of the functional / intelligent sensing garment system used for sports or physical exercises.","PeriodicalId":448346,"journal":{"name":"Human Factors for Apparel and Textile Engineering","volume":"110 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"1900-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"133491480","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
3D scanning has evolved as one of the most advanced and accurate technology to measure humans and products. Quick and reliable results achieved by 3D scanning over manual measurements, make it the most preferred tool for measurement. 3D scanning has been extensively used in various national sizing surveys worldwide. The 3D scan results are compared to the manual measurements to establish the accuracy of the scanner. This research paper describes a novel and alternative approach to check the reliability and validity of the measures derived from 3D Body Scanner in comparison to measures provided by the manual measures.The 3-D Body scanning was done by Sizestream 3D Body Scanner - SS14. The manual body measurements were taken by experienced experts using an anthropometer, stadiometer, and certified flexible non-stretchable steel tape. In total 133 subjects (68 male and 65 female subjects) covering 102 body dimensions were taken manually and were used while comparing 3D scan measurements to establish the validity and reliability of the scanner. The procedure adopted for validation and reliability check for the 3D scanner was as prescribed in the ISO 20685(2005) and ISO 20685(2018). It was observed that the Sizestream - SS14 scanners used were highly consistent in measuring the subjects, though a systematic error was reported in the process failing some of the measurements in terms of accuracy levels (as per ISO 8559 and ISO 20685(2005)) achieved against manual measurements used as the gold standards. Subsequently, a novel approach based on regression modeling was applied to establish scanning accuracy.This research paper describes the validation and reliability procedure as per ISO protocols. It also discusses the regression-based statistical procedure adopted to confirm the desired measurement accuracy of the scanners within the permissible error limits of ISO 20685and ISO 8559.
{"title":"Validation and Reliability of Sizestream 3D scanner using Regression modeling","authors":"M. Tiwari, Noopur Anand","doi":"10.54941/ahfe1001552","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.54941/ahfe1001552","url":null,"abstract":"3D scanning has evolved as one of the most advanced and accurate technology to measure humans and products. Quick and reliable results achieved by 3D scanning over manual measurements, make it the most preferred tool for measurement. 3D scanning has been extensively used in various national sizing surveys worldwide. The 3D scan results are compared to the manual measurements to establish the accuracy of the scanner. This research paper describes a novel and alternative approach to check the reliability and validity of the measures derived from 3D Body Scanner in comparison to measures provided by the manual measures.The 3-D Body scanning was done by Sizestream 3D Body Scanner - SS14. The manual body measurements were taken by experienced experts using an anthropometer, stadiometer, and certified flexible non-stretchable steel tape. In total 133 subjects (68 male and 65 female subjects) covering 102 body dimensions were taken manually and were used while comparing 3D scan measurements to establish the validity and reliability of the scanner. The procedure adopted for validation and reliability check for the 3D scanner was as prescribed in the ISO 20685(2005) and ISO 20685(2018). It was observed that the Sizestream - SS14 scanners used were highly consistent in measuring the subjects, though a systematic error was reported in the process failing some of the measurements in terms of accuracy levels (as per ISO 8559 and ISO 20685(2005)) achieved against manual measurements used as the gold standards. Subsequently, a novel approach based on regression modeling was applied to establish scanning accuracy.This research paper describes the validation and reliability procedure as per ISO protocols. It also discusses the regression-based statistical procedure adopted to confirm the desired measurement accuracy of the scanners within the permissible error limits of ISO 20685and ISO 8559.","PeriodicalId":448346,"journal":{"name":"Human Factors for Apparel and Textile Engineering","volume":"1 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"1900-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"129927376","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Huayao cross-stitch is a traditional handicraft with distinctive regional characteristics in China. Aesthetically appealing with rich cultural implications, Huayao cross-stitch has been listed in the first national list of intangible cultural heritage of China since 2006. With the rapid development of cultural consumption globally, the innovative design and industrial transformation potential have made traditional handicrafts highly-valued resources, and the analysis of cultural representation and multi-value of traditional handicrafts is the basis of cultural reuse. From the perspective of cultural ecology, the current study aims to summarize the spatial organization mode of Huayao cross-stitch patterns and conduct a deep analysis of the concepts and beliefs represented in Huayao cross-stitch by examining 70 samples of cross-stitch skirt pieces collected from the composition and semantics of patterns. The study then analyzes the basis of multi-value of the Huayao cross-stitch from both aesthetic and cultural dimensions, providing a research basis for the innovation and regeneration of Huayao’s cross-stitch, through which its value can be seen in contemporary times as well as in the future.
{"title":"Artistic Characteristics and Multi-value of Huayao Cross-stitch from the Perspective of Cultural Ecology","authors":"Junchun Chen, Jian Peng","doi":"10.54941/ahfe1003643","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.54941/ahfe1003643","url":null,"abstract":"Huayao cross-stitch is a traditional handicraft with distinctive regional characteristics in China. Aesthetically appealing with rich cultural implications, Huayao cross-stitch has been listed in the first national list of intangible cultural heritage of China since 2006. With the rapid development of cultural consumption globally, the innovative design and industrial transformation potential have made traditional handicrafts highly-valued resources, and the analysis of cultural representation and multi-value of traditional handicrafts is the basis of cultural reuse. From the perspective of cultural ecology, the current study aims to summarize the spatial organization mode of Huayao cross-stitch patterns and conduct a deep analysis of the concepts and beliefs represented in Huayao cross-stitch by examining 70 samples of cross-stitch skirt pieces collected from the composition and semantics of patterns. The study then analyzes the basis of multi-value of the Huayao cross-stitch from both aesthetic and cultural dimensions, providing a research basis for the innovation and regeneration of Huayao’s cross-stitch, through which its value can be seen in contemporary times as well as in the future.","PeriodicalId":448346,"journal":{"name":"Human Factors for Apparel and Textile Engineering","volume":"151 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"1900-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"130546362","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Carla Costa Pereira, J. Pinto, G. Montagna, C. Carvalho
Autism is a developmental brain disorder that affects communication skills and social integration, often exposing stereotyped and repetitive patterns. People with this syndrome have an overreaction or underreaction to different sensory stimuli, presenting difficulty in sharing emotions and interpreting body languages.There are studies confirming different reactions between genders, and it is pertinent to analyse how both adapt to the act of dressing and to the reception of different pieces of clothing.Neglecting the practice of Fashion representation and highlighting the functionality of the act of covering and protecting the body, this study aims to discover the wardrobe of a patient with ASD (Autistic Spectrum Disorder) and to know how Design can be more inclusive to improve their wellbeing. Being just the beginning of the investigation, now still based on literature review and pre-test results, the conclusion of the study is not fully defined. Elements of Fashion Design have not all been tested, and the small sample results reflect the needs of caregivers more than the needs of patients
{"title":"The Wardrobe for Patients with Autism Spectrum Disorder","authors":"Carla Costa Pereira, J. Pinto, G. Montagna, C. Carvalho","doi":"10.54941/ahfe1001532","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.54941/ahfe1001532","url":null,"abstract":"Autism is a developmental brain disorder that affects communication skills and social integration, often exposing stereotyped and repetitive patterns. People with this syndrome have an overreaction or underreaction to different sensory stimuli, presenting difficulty in sharing emotions and interpreting body languages.There are studies confirming different reactions between genders, and it is pertinent to analyse how both adapt to the act of dressing and to the reception of different pieces of clothing.Neglecting the practice of Fashion representation and highlighting the functionality of the act of covering and protecting the body, this study aims to discover the wardrobe of a patient with ASD (Autistic Spectrum Disorder) and to know how Design can be more inclusive to improve their wellbeing. Being just the beginning of the investigation, now still based on literature review and pre-test results, the conclusion of the study is not fully defined. Elements of Fashion Design have not all been tested, and the small sample results reflect the needs of caregivers more than the needs of patients","PeriodicalId":448346,"journal":{"name":"Human Factors for Apparel and Textile Engineering","volume":"8 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"1900-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"125318745","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
M. Bicho, Maria Madalena Pereira, R. Miguel, N. Belino
In higher education of national and international courses, there appear the designation Fashion Design, Fashion Technology, and the techniques of pattern making and garment manufacturing which are not always associated in the same curricular unit. The practical skills associated with these two techniques are complementary in fashion product development; but the separation or the failure of interaction between them in the past, contributed to the deficiencies in the validation of the fashion product in the learning phase and in many cases, they present deficiencies in the transfer of knowledge to the labor market. The type of textile and clothing industry differs from country to country, in Portugal it is still essentially based on exporting companies, accounting for 10% of the national exports, where the profile of the professional required is mainly for product development, with skills in techniques, materials and market. In other countries, the profile is adapted for departments, from the creation and development of collections for fashion brands, product development, market, global and local sourcing, among others, result of the evolution that the sector had in the last 20 years, after the multifiber agreement and with the relocation of production to countries with cheaper labor. However, the textile and clothing sector, although belonging to the same chain differ from each other, capital intensive versus labor intensive. The objective of this investigation is to answer a main question: What competences, from a practical point of view, are necessary for the Portuguese garment exporting industry in graduate students specialized in fashion design and fashion technology? The objective is to know what practical skills the Portuguese clothing exporting industry needs, as well as the necessary relationship between the various techniques in the learning phase that contribute to the development of a value-added fashion product. To answer this question, a program of visits/ classes in companies was developed with students in the fashion design specialization, to sensitive them of the needs of the industry and was developed a program of collaboration between two curricular units: pattern making and garment manufacturing. A practical lesson plan for two curricular units was developed for two groups of 25 students. Were also interviewed 10 entrepreneurs from the sector, about their needs and deficiencies in terms of qualified staff in the area. It is concluded that, after contact with companies in the sector and in a classroom model in the company, students show changes in behavior regarding the commitment and acquisition of technical skills. The interconnection between the two curricular units also allowed students to validate the results of their practical work, in the image of industrial model. It is also concluded that the contribution of teachers with recent experience in the clothing industry is essential in the contribution of student’s acquisition
{"title":"Fashion design and fashion technology courses: Practical skills in patterns making, garment manufacturing techniques, technologies, and applications for fashion industry","authors":"M. Bicho, Maria Madalena Pereira, R. Miguel, N. Belino","doi":"10.54941/ahfe1001540","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.54941/ahfe1001540","url":null,"abstract":"In higher education of national and international courses, there appear the designation Fashion Design, Fashion Technology, and the techniques of pattern making and garment manufacturing which are not always associated in the same curricular unit. The practical skills associated with these two techniques are complementary in fashion product development; but the separation or the failure of interaction between them in the past, contributed to the deficiencies in the validation of the fashion product in the learning phase and in many cases, they present deficiencies in the transfer of knowledge to the labor market. The type of textile and clothing industry differs from country to country, in Portugal it is still essentially based on exporting companies, accounting for 10% of the national exports, where the profile of the professional required is mainly for product development, with skills in techniques, materials and market. In other countries, the profile is adapted for departments, from the creation and development of collections for fashion brands, product development, market, global and local sourcing, among others, result of the evolution that the sector had in the last 20 years, after the multifiber agreement and with the relocation of production to countries with cheaper labor. However, the textile and clothing sector, although belonging to the same chain differ from each other, capital intensive versus labor intensive. The objective of this investigation is to answer a main question: What competences, from a practical point of view, are necessary for the Portuguese garment exporting industry in graduate students specialized in fashion design and fashion technology? The objective is to know what practical skills the Portuguese clothing exporting industry needs, as well as the necessary relationship between the various techniques in the learning phase that contribute to the development of a value-added fashion product. To answer this question, a program of visits/ classes in companies was developed with students in the fashion design specialization, to sensitive them of the needs of the industry and was developed a program of collaboration between two curricular units: pattern making and garment manufacturing. A practical lesson plan for two curricular units was developed for two groups of 25 students. Were also interviewed 10 entrepreneurs from the sector, about their needs and deficiencies in terms of qualified staff in the area. It is concluded that, after contact with companies in the sector and in a classroom model in the company, students show changes in behavior regarding the commitment and acquisition of technical skills. The interconnection between the two curricular units also allowed students to validate the results of their practical work, in the image of industrial model. It is also concluded that the contribution of teachers with recent experience in the clothing industry is essential in the contribution of student’s acquisition","PeriodicalId":448346,"journal":{"name":"Human Factors for Apparel and Textile Engineering","volume":"38 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"1900-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"133133390","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Combining the need to (re)dress bodies and façades with the will to adorn, let's consider the wide possibilities that textiles and new materials offer, to point out more sustainable solutions, that can counteract thermal discomfort. Both clothing and buildings protect and shelter the body while providing a means to express the identity of the wearer.In this study, we explore our relationship between interior and exterior. Clothing and housing are presented as an extension of our skin. They allow us to improve the thermal comfort of the users and the dwellings. Fabric structures are used to cover bodies and to clad the structure of buildings, used in both with the same function of protection and thermoregulation. There are numerous constructive advantages in the use of textiles from the translucency of the material, light construction and quick assembly, significant energy savings, flexibility, and adaptability to the site. When there is damage to building infrastructure, caused for example by terrorism or earthquakes, there is often a need for prefabricated, transportable solutions. Textiles used in tent systems are still a referenced solution for emergency shelters due to their lightness, ease of transport and assembly by volunteers without technical training. This research locates textiles used in architecture from their initial use to the present day. We will present examples used by traditional cultures, but also contemporary and innovative constructions. Our study motivates a set of connections, between the User, Textiles, Architecture and Materials. We start with the most comprehensive and transversal connections, like the frequent association of skin to clothing and then clothes to our dwellings. In a second moment some more specific and specialized references, in which we will point out some textiles and coverings, which have incorporated characteristics of flexibility, adaptability and interaction.In this study we present some versatile, adaptable, and ecological structures, which reflect the environmental and social changes of our society. We conclude that the use of textiles in architecture, allows to improve the thermal comfort of the users, to express their identity and to respond to humanitarian needs.
{"title":"Flexible coverings: (Re)dressing bodies and facades. Analogies between the epidermis of our body and the epidermis of our buildings facades","authors":"Marlene Couceiro, Cristina Carvalho","doi":"10.54941/ahfe1001550","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.54941/ahfe1001550","url":null,"abstract":"Combining the need to (re)dress bodies and façades with the will to adorn, let's consider the wide possibilities that textiles and new materials offer, to point out more sustainable solutions, that can counteract thermal discomfort. Both clothing and buildings protect and shelter the body while providing a means to express the identity of the wearer.In this study, we explore our relationship between interior and exterior. Clothing and housing are presented as an extension of our skin. They allow us to improve the thermal comfort of the users and the dwellings. Fabric structures are used to cover bodies and to clad the structure of buildings, used in both with the same function of protection and thermoregulation. There are numerous constructive advantages in the use of textiles from the translucency of the material, light construction and quick assembly, significant energy savings, flexibility, and adaptability to the site. When there is damage to building infrastructure, caused for example by terrorism or earthquakes, there is often a need for prefabricated, transportable solutions. Textiles used in tent systems are still a referenced solution for emergency shelters due to their lightness, ease of transport and assembly by volunteers without technical training. This research locates textiles used in architecture from their initial use to the present day. We will present examples used by traditional cultures, but also contemporary and innovative constructions. Our study motivates a set of connections, between the User, Textiles, Architecture and Materials. We start with the most comprehensive and transversal connections, like the frequent association of skin to clothing and then clothes to our dwellings. In a second moment some more specific and specialized references, in which we will point out some textiles and coverings, which have incorporated characteristics of flexibility, adaptability and interaction.In this study we present some versatile, adaptable, and ecological structures, which reflect the environmental and social changes of our society. We conclude that the use of textiles in architecture, allows to improve the thermal comfort of the users, to express their identity and to respond to humanitarian needs.","PeriodicalId":448346,"journal":{"name":"Human Factors for Apparel and Textile Engineering","volume":"59 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"1900-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"128982540","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
This article aims to address new territories of influence, whose theme of circular economy inspired the territory of design. Circular economy is a concept based on the operationalization of the reduction, reuse, recovery and recycling of products, materials and energy. The linear process that defined fashion's end of life gave way to new models and circular flows of reuse, where design has an important role to play. The emerging theories of circular design are based on the same principles, promoting a sustainable future and whose project methodology already addressed.We can see that these principles are portrayed in an initiatory way in the project methodologies disseminated in school manuals. Perhaps the little depth of the phases that make up the methodology make these “new” innovative approaches appear. In our view, circular design is a reinterpretation of the project method-ology. The design thinking is verified as a fundamental mental process of the methodology, whose lack of knowledge about the specific knowledge of this theme leads to the emergence of parallel lines or new approaches that divide and highlight certain moments of the methodology to the detriment of others.With this investigation it is our intention to clarify concepts and ways of acting. Demonstrate graphic models that show that circular design is already applied in the analysis of the project methodology, both in the macro structure and in the micro structure.We can say that design is verified by the usability of the products but assuming that there is a new applicability, the strategic. Thus, design must be more globally involved in the creation of new products, overcoming the death of objects in their functionality. We are considering a new sustainability territory that reinterprets planned obsolescence in fashion.
{"title":"Design as an enhancer of the circular economy in fashion","authors":"C. Carreto, R. Carreto","doi":"10.54941/ahfe1001544","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.54941/ahfe1001544","url":null,"abstract":"This article aims to address new territories of influence, whose theme of circular economy inspired the territory of design. Circular economy is a concept based on the operationalization of the reduction, reuse, recovery and recycling of products, materials and energy. The linear process that defined fashion's end of life gave way to new models and circular flows of reuse, where design has an important role to play. The emerging theories of circular design are based on the same principles, promoting a sustainable future and whose project methodology already addressed.We can see that these principles are portrayed in an initiatory way in the project methodologies disseminated in school manuals. Perhaps the little depth of the phases that make up the methodology make these “new” innovative approaches appear. In our view, circular design is a reinterpretation of the project method-ology. The design thinking is verified as a fundamental mental process of the methodology, whose lack of knowledge about the specific knowledge of this theme leads to the emergence of parallel lines or new approaches that divide and highlight certain moments of the methodology to the detriment of others.With this investigation it is our intention to clarify concepts and ways of acting. Demonstrate graphic models that show that circular design is already applied in the analysis of the project methodology, both in the macro structure and in the micro structure.We can say that design is verified by the usability of the products but assuming that there is a new applicability, the strategic. Thus, design must be more globally involved in the creation of new products, overcoming the death of objects in their functionality. We are considering a new sustainability territory that reinterprets planned obsolescence in fashion.","PeriodicalId":448346,"journal":{"name":"Human Factors for Apparel and Textile Engineering","volume":"1 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"1900-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"115714135","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
This quasi-experimental study aimed to measure the effectiveness of ergonomics management on risk reduction of work-related musculoskeletal disorders (WMSDs). The study was conducted among industrial workers in one small textile-export enterprise. The 13 workers who met the inclusion criteria were found by screening with a risk matrix of WMSDs and had a risk outcome of WMSDs which was at least at the moderate level (level 3 from five levels). The participants were subjected to an ergonomics program according to the risk levels of WMSDs and the effectiveness was measured by individual comparison between before and after the ergonomics program intervention, which consisted of 1) ergonomics training for improving work posture by using guidance with brochures for self-practice; and 2) using equipment designed for improving workstations, i.e., a chair and footstool designed for the sewing section, and foot support designed for the hand weaving section and quality control section. After ergonomics management implementation, the discomfort scores of workers significantly decreased and the scores of WMSDs risk significantly decreased (p-value <0.001). Therefore, these ergonomics management measures, which could be used as a guideline to reduce WMSDs risk among textile workers, suggest that the organization follows up with long-term screening and surveillance of musculoskeletal diseases to enable industrial workers to work efficiently.
{"title":"Effectiveness of ergonomics management on risk reduction of work-related musculoskeletal disorders among textile export industrial workers","authors":"S. Chaiklieng","doi":"10.54941/ahfe1003637","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.54941/ahfe1003637","url":null,"abstract":"This quasi-experimental study aimed to measure the effectiveness of ergonomics management on risk reduction of work-related musculoskeletal disorders (WMSDs). The study was conducted among industrial workers in one small textile-export enterprise. The 13 workers who met the inclusion criteria were found by screening with a risk matrix of WMSDs and had a risk outcome of WMSDs which was at least at the moderate level (level 3 from five levels). The participants were subjected to an ergonomics program according to the risk levels of WMSDs and the effectiveness was measured by individual comparison between before and after the ergonomics program intervention, which consisted of 1) ergonomics training for improving work posture by using guidance with brochures for self-practice; and 2) using equipment designed for improving workstations, i.e., a chair and footstool designed for the sewing section, and foot support designed for the hand weaving section and quality control section. After ergonomics management implementation, the discomfort scores of workers significantly decreased and the scores of WMSDs risk significantly decreased (p-value <0.001). Therefore, these ergonomics management measures, which could be used as a guideline to reduce WMSDs risk among textile workers, suggest that the organization follows up with long-term screening and surveillance of musculoskeletal diseases to enable industrial workers to work efficiently.","PeriodicalId":448346,"journal":{"name":"Human Factors for Apparel and Textile Engineering","volume":"53 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"1900-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"126082155","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
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