Nga Yin Dik, Wai Kei Tsang, Ah Pun Chan, Kwan Yu Lo, Wai Ching Chu
3D virtual garment simulation technology is widely used in apparel industry nowadays with computer-aided manufacturing systems for the earlier stages of apparel design and product development process. The technological advances have brought convenience in garment product fitting procedures with virtual fitting environment, and eventually enhance the supply chain in the aspects of social, economic, and environmental aspects. Many studies have addressed the matters related to non-standardized selection on garment sizing, ease allowance for different selected groups, and use of 3D avatars for virtual fitting in the design and pre-production stages. Nevertheless, the current practice for designers is difficult for them to recognize the customers’ motivation and emotions towards their preferred fit in the virtual environment, leading to a hard time for the designers to determine the appropriate ease allowances for the end users. The present study is to investigate the variations on the ease preferences for the apparel sizes according to the body dimensions and psychological orientation of the subjects by developing a virtual garment fitting prediction model using artificial neural network (ANN). One hundred and twenty adult subjects were recruited to conduct 3D body scans and questionnaire survey for retrieving their body dimensions and psychographic characteristics. Segmentations were performed and each cluster was asked to evaluate the fitting preferences in a co-design interview on virtual garment simulation with a commercial software called Optitex. The results demonstrated that the ANN model is effective in predicting ease preferences from the body measurements and the psychological orientation of the subjects with high correlation coefficients, showing that a non-linear relationship is modelled among pattern parameters, body dimensions and psychographic characteristics. The results were visualized using generative adversarial network (GAN) to generate 3D samples. This new approach is significant to predict the garment sizes and pattern parameters with a highly accurate ANN model. Visualization of the predicted size with the implementation of GAN model is valuable to envision the garment details from 2D to 3D. The project has achieved the conception of mass customization and customer orientation by providing the perfect fit to the end users. Eventually, new size fitting data is generated for improved ease preference charts and augments end-user satisfaction in garment fit.
{"title":"Predicting Virtual Garment Fitting Size with Psychographic Characteristics and 3D Body Measurements Using Artificial Neural Network and Visualizing Fitted Bodies Using Generative Adversarial Network","authors":"Nga Yin Dik, Wai Kei Tsang, Ah Pun Chan, Kwan Yu Lo, Wai Ching Chu","doi":"10.54941/ahfe1003635","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.54941/ahfe1003635","url":null,"abstract":"3D virtual garment simulation technology is widely used in apparel industry nowadays with computer-aided manufacturing systems for the earlier stages of apparel design and product development process. The technological advances have brought convenience in garment product fitting procedures with virtual fitting environment, and eventually enhance the supply chain in the aspects of social, economic, and environmental aspects. Many studies have addressed the matters related to non-standardized selection on garment sizing, ease allowance for different selected groups, and use of 3D avatars for virtual fitting in the design and pre-production stages. Nevertheless, the current practice for designers is difficult for them to recognize the customers’ motivation and emotions towards their preferred fit in the virtual environment, leading to a hard time for the designers to determine the appropriate ease allowances for the end users. The present study is to investigate the variations on the ease preferences for the apparel sizes according to the body dimensions and psychological orientation of the subjects by developing a virtual garment fitting prediction model using artificial neural network (ANN). One hundred and twenty adult subjects were recruited to conduct 3D body scans and questionnaire survey for retrieving their body dimensions and psychographic characteristics. Segmentations were performed and each cluster was asked to evaluate the fitting preferences in a co-design interview on virtual garment simulation with a commercial software called Optitex. The results demonstrated that the ANN model is effective in predicting ease preferences from the body measurements and the psychological orientation of the subjects with high correlation coefficients, showing that a non-linear relationship is modelled among pattern parameters, body dimensions and psychographic characteristics. The results were visualized using generative adversarial network (GAN) to generate 3D samples. This new approach is significant to predict the garment sizes and pattern parameters with a highly accurate ANN model. Visualization of the predicted size with the implementation of GAN model is valuable to envision the garment details from 2D to 3D. The project has achieved the conception of mass customization and customer orientation by providing the perfect fit to the end users. Eventually, new size fitting data is generated for improved ease preference charts and augments end-user satisfaction in garment fit.","PeriodicalId":448346,"journal":{"name":"Human Factors for Apparel and Textile Engineering","volume":"1 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"1900-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"128238475","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
The maritime signaling systems with textile components are light, flexible and efficient solutions [1, 4] and for their digital construction the researches were focused both on the prediction of the DB medium values and of those of the technical and functional characteristics. The designed and developed testing programme generated data on the system, by reaching the critical parameters; effectiveness; responsiveness; compatibility by evaluating the system in real interoperability conditions. Evaluation was a continuous, intensive process that involved: data analysis; defining the decisive parameters according to the operational requirements; establishing the degree of fulfillment of the technical performances; issuing hypotheses and conclusions regarding the progress registered in the technique and costs. It was demonstrated that the analised outliers, represented by the mechanical characteristics of the composite materials, component of the signaling system (braking resistance, tear resistance, braking elongation) and their joints (material-material and material – grain-gross band) do not have a negative impact on the textile structure, because they have values higher than the average for each set, so they will not influence the behavior and the functionality of the system in ground or open sea experimentation conditions.
{"title":"Assessment of the Mechanical Behaviour of the Maritime Signaling Systems Based on Textiles Using Descriptive Statistics","authors":"C. Mihai, Alexandra Gabriela Ene, M. Jomir","doi":"10.54941/ahfe1001557","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.54941/ahfe1001557","url":null,"abstract":"The maritime signaling systems with textile components are light, flexible and efficient solutions [1, 4] and for their digital construction the researches were focused both on the prediction of the DB medium values and of those of the technical and functional characteristics. The designed and developed testing programme generated data on the system, by reaching the critical parameters; effectiveness; responsiveness; compatibility by evaluating the system in real interoperability conditions. Evaluation was a continuous, intensive process that involved: data analysis; defining the decisive parameters according to the operational requirements; establishing the degree of fulfillment of the technical performances; issuing hypotheses and conclusions regarding the progress registered in the technique and costs. It was demonstrated that the analised outliers, represented by the mechanical characteristics of the composite materials, component of the signaling system (braking resistance, tear resistance, braking elongation) and their joints (material-material and material – grain-gross band) do not have a negative impact on the textile structure, because they have values higher than the average for each set, so they will not influence the behavior and the functionality of the system in ground or open sea experimentation conditions.","PeriodicalId":448346,"journal":{"name":"Human Factors for Apparel and Textile Engineering","volume":"72 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"1900-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"128289452","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
The study presented in this paper, is part of a product design research about children's material surroundings and is based on the review of literature and case study. In an architectural scale approach, a ceramic tile project was developed and prototyped, aiming to provide wall covering solutions, which may stimulate the interaction of the child with his/her surroundings through customization and imagination, following also concerns on sustainability. Glazed earthenware tiles, being popular mineral origin materials, have been used for centuries in households. It seemed necessary to search for information on other natural origin material possibilities that may complete a modular system, namely specific textile materials of animal origin (wool based) and other vegetable source composite materials (cork based), from Portugal. It was possible to achieve a wider view of the advantages and disadvantages of each material, its implications on human interaction and on sustainability. It helped provide directions for a suitable choice of materials in this wall covering project, bearing in mind children's interaction and comfort, but also innovation and playfulness in their development.
{"title":"Interaction and Comfort for Children - Textiles and Composite Materials","authors":"C. Salvador","doi":"10.54941/ahfe1001545","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.54941/ahfe1001545","url":null,"abstract":"The study presented in this paper, is part of a product design research about children's material surroundings and is based on the review of literature and case study. In an architectural scale approach, a ceramic tile project was developed and prototyped, aiming to provide wall covering solutions, which may stimulate the interaction of the child with his/her surroundings through customization and imagination, following also concerns on sustainability. Glazed earthenware tiles, being popular mineral origin materials, have been used for centuries in households. It seemed necessary to search for information on other natural origin material possibilities that may complete a modular system, namely specific textile materials of animal origin (wool based) and other vegetable source composite materials (cork based), from Portugal. It was possible to achieve a wider view of the advantages and disadvantages of each material, its implications on human interaction and on sustainability. It helped provide directions for a suitable choice of materials in this wall covering project, bearing in mind children's interaction and comfort, but also innovation and playfulness in their development.","PeriodicalId":448346,"journal":{"name":"Human Factors for Apparel and Textile Engineering","volume":"34 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"1900-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"127414215","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Maria Madalena Pereira, João Nuno Oliveira, João Oliveira, R. Miguel, J. Morgado, M. Pereira, M. Gonçalves, J. Barata
Digitalization is the act of deploying digital technologies to transform available business models and generate new revenue and value-producing opportunities (Gartner 2018). Digitalization is also called Industry 4.0. Several projects have emerged to respond to the challenges of Industry 4.0 and that, in some way, can respond to questions and problems found in an era of sustainability in the TCI (textile and clothing industry) supply chain, namely new business models for value creation. The STVgoDigital project, with the leadership of the “Têxtil Manuel Gonçalves” company, developed in partnership between the Portuguese textile and clothing industry and organizations of the scientific and technological system, allowing the development of advanced technology and market solutions applied to the fashion ecosystem. Thus, the objective of this project is to develop a digital platform (B2B and B2C) that contributes to the digitalization of processes from design to production and consumer with a horizontal and vertical integration system and allows responding to the problems of the new generations of fashion designers. For its development, a multidisciplinary team was formed (engineers, designers, informatics, managers, among others) to formulate the digital platform and interconnection with micro-factories production for a specific business model in the textile and clothing industry. It is concluded that the STVgoDigital project can contribute to a global level in this new digital and sustainable era: create value in the Portuguese textile and clothing industry and include more significant participation of designers and artists in the sector’s value chains, both nationally and internationally.Keywords: Industry 4.0, Fashion Ecosystem, Portuguese Textile, and Clothing Industry
数字化是部署数字技术来改变现有商业模式并产生新的收入和创造价值机会的行为(Gartner 2018)。数字化也被称为工业4.0。一些项目已经出现，以应对工业4.0的挑战，在某种程度上，可以回应在TCI(纺织和服装行业)供应链的可持续性时代发现的问题和问题，即创造价值的新商业模式。STVgoDigital项目由“Têxtil Manuel gonalves”公司领导，由葡萄牙纺织服装行业和科技系统组织合作开发，允许开发适用于时尚生态系统的先进技术和市场解决方案。因此，该项目的目标是开发一个数字平台(B2B和B2C)，通过横向和纵向集成系统促进从设计到生产和消费者的流程数字化，并允许对新一代时装设计师的问题做出回应。为了开发它，我们组建了一个多学科团队(工程师、设计师、信息学、管理人员等)，为纺织服装行业的特定商业模式制定数字平台并与微型工厂生产互联。结论是，STVgoDigital项目可以在这个新的数字和可持续时代为全球做出贡献:为葡萄牙纺织和服装行业创造价值，并使设计师和艺术家更多地参与到国内和国际的行业价值链中。关键词:工业4.0，时尚生态，葡萄牙纺织，服装产业
{"title":"STVgoDigital Project: The contribution of industry and scientific and technological system for fashion ecosystem digitalization","authors":"Maria Madalena Pereira, João Nuno Oliveira, João Oliveira, R. Miguel, J. Morgado, M. Pereira, M. Gonçalves, J. Barata","doi":"10.54941/ahfe1001541","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.54941/ahfe1001541","url":null,"abstract":"Digitalization is the act of deploying digital technologies to transform available business models and generate new revenue and value-producing opportunities (Gartner 2018). Digitalization is also called Industry 4.0. Several projects have emerged to respond to the challenges of Industry 4.0 and that, in some way, can respond to questions and problems found in an era of sustainability in the TCI (textile and clothing industry) supply chain, namely new business models for value creation. The STVgoDigital project, with the leadership of the “Têxtil Manuel Gonçalves” company, developed in partnership between the Portuguese textile and clothing industry and organizations of the scientific and technological system, allowing the development of advanced technology and market solutions applied to the fashion ecosystem. Thus, the objective of this project is to develop a digital platform (B2B and B2C) that contributes to the digitalization of processes from design to production and consumer with a horizontal and vertical integration system and allows responding to the problems of the new generations of fashion designers. For its development, a multidisciplinary team was formed (engineers, designers, informatics, managers, among others) to formulate the digital platform and interconnection with micro-factories production for a specific business model in the textile and clothing industry. It is concluded that the STVgoDigital project can contribute to a global level in this new digital and sustainable era: create value in the Portuguese textile and clothing industry and include more significant participation of designers and artists in the sector’s value chains, both nationally and internationally.Keywords: Industry 4.0, Fashion Ecosystem, Portuguese Textile, and Clothing Industry","PeriodicalId":448346,"journal":{"name":"Human Factors for Apparel and Textile Engineering","volume":"1 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"1900-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"130613841","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Alexandra Gabriela Ene, C. Mihai, M. Jomir, Constantin Jomir
The diseases caused by the Norwalk virus (norovirus, Caliciviridae family), which produces gastroenteritis, and HAV (hepatitis A virus), and consequently generates infectious hepatitis, are the most common infections associated with the consumption of contaminated bivalve mollusks, raw or under-cooked. Moreover, the mutual commercial agreement between the EU and the USA regarding the export of live bivalve mollusks requires the adoption of a control program for the microbiological classification and monitoring of the production of this type of seafood, as well as the clear demarcation and signalling of the relaying areas. In this sense, in order to obtain the natural purification of live bivalve mollusks, the relaying areas, as freshwater, sea, estuaries or lagoons, must be demarcated and signaled with the help of buoys. The mathematical modeling of the geometric domain was performed with specialized software based on dimensional constraints specific to an algebraic surface of 2nd order – frusta of cones welded at large end, with different volumes for each frustum. The dimensions for the emerged/submerged frustum were: slant height: 630mm/800mm, radius of the larger circular front: 600mm/600mm and radius of the smaller circular front: 200mm/256mm. The Generative Structural Analysis module enabled the simulation of the behavior of the buoy both as a single entity and as a set of broken (individual) entities. The loads were carried out in the extreme conditions of the open sea, corresponding at: i) agitation state of 4 - 8 degrees Beaufort (wind speed 11 - 15 kt, respectively 20 - 88 km/h) and wave height of max. 1.5 m; ii) wind speed of 34 - 40 kt (62 - 74 km/h) and wave height of 6-7.5 m. Two types of constraints were considered both at the base and in the frusta joint area. Analysis of displacement fields and equivalent stresses (Von Mises) evidenced that the buoy is a rigid structure (with reduced maximum displacements, of 1.2e+003 mm, for 8bf), with an admissible resistance of emerged/submerged frustum 8.11e+ 009N_m2 /1.75e+009 N_m2 that enables the retrieve of the efforts due to the environment, as the possible cracks that might appear at the contact of the composite structure with the fluid in turbulent motion exceed the value of 7.83e+009N_m2 for the stress at 8bf. In addition, were considered for the emerged/submerged frustum: slant height: 630mm/800mm, radius of the larger circular front: 600mm/600mm and radius of the smaller circular front: 200mm/256mm. In this situation, a CAD/CAE environment enabled the simulation of the behavior of the buoy both as a single entity and as a set of broken (individual) entities was performed. Moreover, for the matrix made of 45%/55% PA6.6/PES fabric –corresponding to the emerged frustum and respectively 100% PA6.6 for the submerged frustum were used calculation algorithms specific to fabric design. The resulting variation intervals of the longitudinal, respectively transverse system, mass, width and conn
{"title":"Structural Analysis Of The Signaling Buoy Used In Relaying Areas Of Live Bivalve Mollusks","authors":"Alexandra Gabriela Ene, C. Mihai, M. Jomir, Constantin Jomir","doi":"10.54941/ahfe1003646","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.54941/ahfe1003646","url":null,"abstract":"The diseases caused by the Norwalk virus (norovirus, Caliciviridae family), which produces gastroenteritis, and HAV (hepatitis A virus), and consequently generates infectious hepatitis, are the most common infections associated with the consumption of contaminated bivalve mollusks, raw or under-cooked. Moreover, the mutual commercial agreement between the EU and the USA regarding the export of live bivalve mollusks requires the adoption of a control program for the microbiological classification and monitoring of the production of this type of seafood, as well as the clear demarcation and signalling of the relaying areas. In this sense, in order to obtain the natural purification of live bivalve mollusks, the relaying areas, as freshwater, sea, estuaries or lagoons, must be demarcated and signaled with the help of buoys. The mathematical modeling of the geometric domain was performed with specialized software based on dimensional constraints specific to an algebraic surface of 2nd order – frusta of cones welded at large end, with different volumes for each frustum. The dimensions for the emerged/submerged frustum were: slant height: 630mm/800mm, radius of the larger circular front: 600mm/600mm and radius of the smaller circular front: 200mm/256mm. The Generative Structural Analysis module enabled the simulation of the behavior of the buoy both as a single entity and as a set of broken (individual) entities. The loads were carried out in the extreme conditions of the open sea, corresponding at: i) agitation state of 4 - 8 degrees Beaufort (wind speed 11 - 15 kt, respectively 20 - 88 km/h) and wave height of max. 1.5 m; ii) wind speed of 34 - 40 kt (62 - 74 km/h) and wave height of 6-7.5 m. Two types of constraints were considered both at the base and in the frusta joint area. Analysis of displacement fields and equivalent stresses (Von Mises) evidenced that the buoy is a rigid structure (with reduced maximum displacements, of 1.2e+003 mm, for 8bf), with an admissible resistance of emerged/submerged frustum 8.11e+ 009N_m2 /1.75e+009 N_m2 that enables the retrieve of the efforts due to the environment, as the possible cracks that might appear at the contact of the composite structure with the fluid in turbulent motion exceed the value of 7.83e+009N_m2 for the stress at 8bf. In addition, were considered for the emerged/submerged frustum: slant height: 630mm/800mm, radius of the larger circular front: 600mm/600mm and radius of the smaller circular front: 200mm/256mm. In this situation, a CAD/CAE environment enabled the simulation of the behavior of the buoy both as a single entity and as a set of broken (individual) entities was performed. Moreover, for the matrix made of 45%/55% PA6.6/PES fabric –corresponding to the emerged frustum and respectively 100% PA6.6 for the submerged frustum were used calculation algorithms specific to fabric design. The resulting variation intervals of the longitudinal, respectively transverse system, mass, width and conn","PeriodicalId":448346,"journal":{"name":"Human Factors for Apparel and Textile Engineering","volume":"7 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"1900-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"129026771","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
João Nuno Oliveira, Luani Costa, Ana Ramõa, R. Silva, Aureliano Fertuzinhos, Bruno Vale, I. Estudante, João Pinheiro, A. Pilastri, Paula Dias, Arthur Matta, R. Sampaio, Dário Machado, P. Cortez, Marta Costa, Ana Roças, P.S. Madureira, Juliana Moreira, J. Pereira, Carla Pereira, Fernando Pereira
STVgoDigital project aims the transition of the textile and apparel industries to the new Industry 4.0 paradigm promoting the digitalization to increase productivity and efficiency of the entire value chain. Specifically the PPS4 - Worker 4.0, aims to develop disruptive solutions based on sensing and active components within a garment to support repetitive movements that may cause injuries and/or pain in apparel workers. Textile Industry employs 1.7 million people in Europe [1]. Seamstress’s activities are among the most prone to develop pain and fatigue symptoms along time, mainly on the neck, shoulders, and wrists, facing higher musculoskeletal risks caused by precision handwork and static, low-level work postures [2-3]. In Europe, 50% of workers’ absences to work are due to work-related musculoskeletal disorders (WRMSDs) that last for longer periods than absences caused by any other health issue. WRMSDs are responsible for 60% of their permanent incapacity [4]. In a study performed by Oo, 93.8% of the analyzed seamstress’ work experienced WRMSDs [5].In this sense, a textile-based exoskeleton with ergonomic concerns and a challenging textile-based implementation was developed to reduce the physical efforts required to perform different sewing operations in industrial processes. Besides, it would correspond to essential biomechanical specifications to adapt to the human body and avoid common trade-offs related to human-device interfaces. The textile-based exoskeleton that will support the transition to Worker 4.0 generation integrates: a) a sensing system for the detection of movements in real-time, to make it possible to identify the ergonomic posture of the worker, as well as the risk associated with the execution of repetitive working tasks; b) an actuation system to increase body strength and support the upper limb segments correctly, reducing physical efforts and fatigue, eliminating unnecessary movements, and contributing to develop a better ergonomic assessment of the working postures and layout; c) learning and actuation algorithms, with some degree of variability, focused on several movement natures, such as the abduction and elevation of the upper limbs, and finally d) a global integration of the solutions in a wearable, light and flexible garment capable to ensure comfort and adequate execution of the sewing operations while adequately resisting active sensing and actuation systems.Using prototypes, the developed textile-based exoskeleton will be tested in a laboratory and real environment to study and evaluate digital interfaces; measure muscle load and the impact of using the exoskeleton; and evaluate and classify the usability and comfort. A testing protocol was submitted to an ethics committee. AcknowledgmentThis work was developed in the framework of STVgoDIGITAL project (no 46086), which was co-financed by Portugal 2020, under the Operational Program for Competitiveness and Internationalization (COMPETE 2020) through the Europea
{"title":"Worker 4.0: A Textile Exoskeleton to Support Apparel Industry","authors":"João Nuno Oliveira, Luani Costa, Ana Ramõa, R. Silva, Aureliano Fertuzinhos, Bruno Vale, I. Estudante, João Pinheiro, A. Pilastri, Paula Dias, Arthur Matta, R. Sampaio, Dário Machado, P. Cortez, Marta Costa, Ana Roças, P.S. Madureira, Juliana Moreira, J. Pereira, Carla Pereira, Fernando Pereira","doi":"10.54941/ahfe1003636","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.54941/ahfe1003636","url":null,"abstract":"STVgoDigital project aims the transition of the textile and apparel industries to the new Industry 4.0 paradigm promoting the digitalization to increase productivity and efficiency of the entire value chain. Specifically the PPS4 - Worker 4.0, aims to develop disruptive solutions based on sensing and active components within a garment to support repetitive movements that may cause injuries and/or pain in apparel workers. Textile Industry employs 1.7 million people in Europe [1]. Seamstress’s activities are among the most prone to develop pain and fatigue symptoms along time, mainly on the neck, shoulders, and wrists, facing higher musculoskeletal risks caused by precision handwork and static, low-level work postures [2-3]. In Europe, 50% of workers’ absences to work are due to work-related musculoskeletal disorders (WRMSDs) that last for longer periods than absences caused by any other health issue. WRMSDs are responsible for 60% of their permanent incapacity [4]. In a study performed by Oo, 93.8% of the analyzed seamstress’ work experienced WRMSDs [5].In this sense, a textile-based exoskeleton with ergonomic concerns and a challenging textile-based implementation was developed to reduce the physical efforts required to perform different sewing operations in industrial processes. Besides, it would correspond to essential biomechanical specifications to adapt to the human body and avoid common trade-offs related to human-device interfaces. The textile-based exoskeleton that will support the transition to Worker 4.0 generation integrates: a) a sensing system for the detection of movements in real-time, to make it possible to identify the ergonomic posture of the worker, as well as the risk associated with the execution of repetitive working tasks; b) an actuation system to increase body strength and support the upper limb segments correctly, reducing physical efforts and fatigue, eliminating unnecessary movements, and contributing to develop a better ergonomic assessment of the working postures and layout; c) learning and actuation algorithms, with some degree of variability, focused on several movement natures, such as the abduction and elevation of the upper limbs, and finally d) a global integration of the solutions in a wearable, light and flexible garment capable to ensure comfort and adequate execution of the sewing operations while adequately resisting active sensing and actuation systems.Using prototypes, the developed textile-based exoskeleton will be tested in a laboratory and real environment to study and evaluate digital interfaces; measure muscle load and the impact of using the exoskeleton; and evaluate and classify the usability and comfort. A testing protocol was submitted to an ethics committee. AcknowledgmentThis work was developed in the framework of STVgoDIGITAL project (no 46086), which was co-financed by Portugal 2020, under the Operational Program for Competitiveness and Internationalization (COMPETE 2020) through the Europea","PeriodicalId":448346,"journal":{"name":"Human Factors for Apparel and Textile Engineering","volume":"37 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"1900-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"121235236","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
C. Carvalho, Carla Costa Pereira, G. Montagna, Carlos Manuel Figueiredo
The textile industry is responsible for the production of more than 2 billion tons of effluents/waste, most of which are discarded into the ecosystem, namely and mostly into water ecosystems, essentially after the dyeing and printing processes. In fact, dyeing is one of the most polluting processes in the textile industry, representing a high source of pollution. According to the World Bank, the textile dyeing industries are responsible for more than 20% of the pollution of all water used at the industrial level.One of the serious problems related to the group of synthetic dyes is the level of chemical compounds used for their production, which has a high level of toxicity. In this context, the group of azo dyes stands out, for example, which predominate in most textile processing applications and have carcinogenic and mutagenic potential. These mentioned problems do not only have an impact in terms of the environment, but also in terms of human health since they can cause irritation to people's skin, eyes, and respiratory tract. Additionally, various health problems such as neurotoxicity, carcinogenicity, reproductive toxicity, and developmental toxicity can arise because of exposure to wastewater pollution.One of the emerging research domains is related to the exploration of obtaining natural dyes from microorganisms, known as Bio colorants. However, the approaches used also limit the yield and performance of the obtained formulations, since the dyeing process occurs directly, through the exposure of the microorganism to the substrate. Additionally, to date, there is no solution applicable to continuous dyeing.This research work has as its main objectives the research and development to obtain dyes for application in textile finishing processes, namely dyeing and printing, resorting to bacterial metabolic processes for the bioproduction of these same dyes. Complementarily, with this project, it is expected to obtain dyeing and printing processes with a reduction in contaminated effluents, because of the high biodegradability of the biodyes to be developed, thus contributing to the reduction of decontamination processes of industrial effluents.This project, therefore, aims to achieve the following research and development milestones:i. New biotechnological approach for obtaining the biodye;ii. High performance and functionalization of the biodye on textile substrates.iii. Reproducibility and uniformity of the process on various types of substrates.A differentiating approach will be investigated, through the metabolic study of the culture conditions of microorganisms, without resorting to genetic modification, and without the use of toxic chemical compounds, allowing, in this way, to generate a unique concept in the sector. As will be duly demonstrated given that, to date, Biodye solutions obtained from microorganisms for continuous dyeing are unknown.At the level of the proposed concept, it is intended to develop formulations of biodye in powder
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C. Carvalho, G. Montagna, Carla Costa Pereira, Carlos Manuel Figueiredo
The Textile Industry is one of the most representative industries in the world's industrial structure and has always assumed an important role in the national economy. Globally, and according to a study by Grand View Research, this industry represented 961.5 billion dollars in 2019 (Grand View Research - Global textile market 2020-2027).However, this sector represents the second most polluting industry in the world, and the environmental impacts occur, above all, in terms of water consumption, soil erosion, CO2 emissions and the resulting residues.The textile industry is responsible for the production of 2.1 billion tons of waste, most of which are discarded into the water ecosystem, essentially during the dyeing processes. In fact, dyeing is one of the most polluting processes in the textile industry, representing a high source of pollution of water circuits and environmental ecosystem. According to the World Bank, textile dyeing industries are responsible for 20% of industrial water pollution.This reality acquires even greater proportion when analyzing the quantities of dyes produced. Every year, it is estimated that around 10,000 types of dyes and pigments, and 7x105 tons of synthetic dyes are produced in the market, for this sector. From this production, more than 200,000 tons of dyes are released into industrial effluents during the textile processing phases (dyeing and finishing).To reduce the environmental footprint caused by the textile industry, the replacement of synthetic dyes by others from natural compounds has been the subject of extensive research, through the development of new ways of coloring textile materials.One of the emerging research areas is related to the exploration of obtaining natural dyes, from microorganisms, called Biodyes.The research aims to develop a sustainable dyeing process, through the production of biodyes, from the metabolic study of the production of microorganisms.It is known the potential that exists in the generation of color and a wide spectrum of functionalities, from biotechnology, regarding the metabolic pathway of certain microorganisms, in the specific case from bacteria such as E. Coli. The main advantages of the innovation proposed in the investigation of this research work are compared to synthetic dyes/pigments, its very low environmental impact, in terms of consumption of material and energy resources, environmental pollution and non-toxicity of the resulting effluents. At the same time, the production of dyes from microorganisms, bacteria and/or fungi, has benefits compared to natural alternatives of plant origin due to its independence from seasonal limitations and climatic conditions, as well as the rapid growth of some substances and therefore with much higher biological yields and consequent industrial application.
纺织工业是世界产业结构中最具代表性的产业之一，在国民经济中一直占有重要地位。在全球范围内，根据Grand View Research的一项研究，该行业在2019年的规模为9615亿美元(Grand View Research - 2020-2027年全球纺织品市场)。然而，该部门是世界上污染第二大的行业，其环境影响主要体现在水消耗、土壤侵蚀、二氧化碳排放和由此产生的残留物方面。纺织工业产生了21亿吨废物，其中大部分被丢弃到水生态系统中，主要是在染色过程中。事实上，染色是纺织工业中污染最严重的工序之一，是对水路和环境生态系统的高度污染源。根据世界银行的数据，印染工业对工业水污染的贡献率为20%。在分析生产的染料数量时，这一现实占有更大的比例。据估计，该行业每年在市场上生产约10,000种染料和颜料，以及7x105吨合成染料。在纺织加工阶段(染色和整理)，超过20万吨的染料被排放到工业废水中。为了减少纺织工业对环境造成的影响，通过开发新的纺织材料染色方法，用其他天然化合物代替合成染料一直是广泛研究的主题。其中一个新兴的研究领域与探索从微生物中获得天然染料有关，称为生物染料。该研究旨在开发一种可持续的染色工艺，通过对微生物生产的代谢研究来生产生物染料。已知的潜力存在于产生颜色和广泛的功能，从生物技术，关于某些微生物的代谢途径，在特定的情况下，从细菌如大肠杆菌。与合成染料/颜料相比，在材料和能源消耗、环境污染和产生的废水无毒方面，本研究工作中提出的创新的主要优点是对环境的影响很小。同时，从微生物、细菌和/或真菌中生产染料，与植物来源的天然替代品相比有好处，因为它不受季节限制和气候条件的限制，而且一些物质的快速生长，因此具有更高的生物产量和随之而来的工业应用。
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G. Montagna, Maria Antonietta Sbordone, Alessandra Esposito, Ana Marques, Ilenia Amato, Rita Gaspar
The paper presents the results of a research carried out in the clothing, footwear and leather goods sectors referring to the Italian territory. The survey was carried out through the collection of data on the field, with questionnaires administered to companies in the area: structured analysis on the company profile and brand identity; focus on sustainability with reference to the measures adopted by the company; technological assessment; collection of new needs expressed by each company. The result of the on-field research suggests, on the one hand, theoretical reflections relating to new sustainable approaches for the fashion sector, and on the other, technological innovation to implement value and profit for each company according to a sustainable and circular economic model. In Italy the local manufacturing systems have had their fulcrum in the industrial districts, which present themselves as centres of relations between multiple stakeholders. Generally, the openness and inclusion of stakeholders and systemic organization are essential for the sustainable development of the sector.The cultural tradition and the organization of Made in Italy production, in parallel with the Portuguese textile production systems, seem better prepared for a real ecological transition (Ricchetti & Frisa, 2011). This research proposes a model that accompanies companies on a transition path towards sustainable production.The methodology investigated, which starts from the enhancement of operational tools, contributes to promoting the adoption of new production processes and therefore to a more conscious consumption.The results achieved by SMEs in recent years, in the areas of ecological and digital transition, promise interesting developments, formulating a starting point to be used as an organizational and productive support to definitively move towards the suggested model. The discussion proposes a series of recommendations that can contribute to adopting a change in the entrepreneurial system of SMEs, vice versa, where there are contradictions and persisting barriers, it will be necessary to consider concrete and unanimously shared measures.
{"title":"New Territories of Sustainable Fashion Proposals for the Transition towards sustainability and circularity","authors":"G. Montagna, Maria Antonietta Sbordone, Alessandra Esposito, Ana Marques, Ilenia Amato, Rita Gaspar","doi":"10.54941/ahfe1001546","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.54941/ahfe1001546","url":null,"abstract":"The paper presents the results of a research carried out in the clothing, footwear and leather goods sectors referring to the Italian territory. The survey was carried out through the collection of data on the field, with questionnaires administered to companies in the area: structured analysis on the company profile and brand identity; focus on sustainability with reference to the measures adopted by the company; technological assessment; collection of new needs expressed by each company. The result of the on-field research suggests, on the one hand, theoretical reflections relating to new sustainable approaches for the fashion sector, and on the other, technological innovation to implement value and profit for each company according to a sustainable and circular economic model. In Italy the local manufacturing systems have had their fulcrum in the industrial districts, which present themselves as centres of relations between multiple stakeholders. Generally, the openness and inclusion of stakeholders and systemic organization are essential for the sustainable development of the sector.The cultural tradition and the organization of Made in Italy production, in parallel with the Portuguese textile production systems, seem better prepared for a real ecological transition (Ricchetti & Frisa, 2011). This research proposes a model that accompanies companies on a transition path towards sustainable production.The methodology investigated, which starts from the enhancement of operational tools, contributes to promoting the adoption of new production processes and therefore to a more conscious consumption.The results achieved by SMEs in recent years, in the areas of ecological and digital transition, promise interesting developments, formulating a starting point to be used as an organizational and productive support to definitively move towards the suggested model. The discussion proposes a series of recommendations that can contribute to adopting a change in the entrepreneurial system of SMEs, vice versa, where there are contradictions and persisting barriers, it will be necessary to consider concrete and unanimously shared measures.","PeriodicalId":448346,"journal":{"name":"Human Factors for Apparel and Textile Engineering","volume":"12 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"1900-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"126798948","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
G. Montagna, M. Delgado, Isabel Duarte De Almeida, L. Santos
This work arises as a reflection on what it means to be a designer of the future and their greater need for influence and collaboration with the team throughout the product creation cycle. The renewal of a culture of design and business innovation in the area of fashion and textile design is based on the establishment of bridges with different realities that, increasingly dynamic, change the landscape of different products and their creation processes, blurring the boundaries and limits of each area of intervention and its actors. From the small to the big industry we find new needs and professions that project themselves into the future reaching from the past, as in the case of new craft productions that value the identity, artistic and cultural heritage of each geography, supported by new materials and technologies of Industry 5.0. This new dynamic of integrated work, where everyone contributes to enhance the knowledge of each participant, enabling the renewal of knowledge and the development of innovation and social, cultural, and economic inclusion, needs greater support and connection between academia and the creative and productive reality on the ground. The present research group, sustained by the interpretation of the paths of work innovation in the coming decades, intended to provide a contribution to the industry and the culture of national or international design innovation, through research based on the identification of the knowledge and skills necessary for the future training of fashion designers.The adoption of a qualitative and quantitative methodology should allow the collection of data that can indicate trends of needs of future designers and the need to adapt the academy to these new realities. With this study we intend to establish a network of relationships between the different actors in the process of creation and innovation, as well as promote a greater connection between the different forms of creation and production that allow to satisfy the final consumer and their needs around fashion and textiles.
{"title":"New skills for new designers: Fashion and Textiles","authors":"G. Montagna, M. Delgado, Isabel Duarte De Almeida, L. Santos","doi":"10.54941/ahfe1001539","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.54941/ahfe1001539","url":null,"abstract":"This work arises as a reflection on what it means to be a designer of the future and their greater need for influence and collaboration with the team throughout the product creation cycle. The renewal of a culture of design and business innovation in the area of fashion and textile design is based on the establishment of bridges with different realities that, increasingly dynamic, change the landscape of different products and their creation processes, blurring the boundaries and limits of each area of intervention and its actors. From the small to the big industry we find new needs and professions that project themselves into the future reaching from the past, as in the case of new craft productions that value the identity, artistic and cultural heritage of each geography, supported by new materials and technologies of Industry 5.0. This new dynamic of integrated work, where everyone contributes to enhance the knowledge of each participant, enabling the renewal of knowledge and the development of innovation and social, cultural, and economic inclusion, needs greater support and connection between academia and the creative and productive reality on the ground. The present research group, sustained by the interpretation of the paths of work innovation in the coming decades, intended to provide a contribution to the industry and the culture of national or international design innovation, through research based on the identification of the knowledge and skills necessary for the future training of fashion designers.The adoption of a qualitative and quantitative methodology should allow the collection of data that can indicate trends of needs of future designers and the need to adapt the academy to these new realities. With this study we intend to establish a network of relationships between the different actors in the process of creation and innovation, as well as promote a greater connection between the different forms of creation and production that allow to satisfy the final consumer and their needs around fashion and textiles.","PeriodicalId":448346,"journal":{"name":"Human Factors for Apparel and Textile Engineering","volume":"297 2","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"1900-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"131519901","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
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