Ren Long, Wenyi Han, Xin Zeng, Yiming Wang, Mei Ming Xiong
Luo, a traditional Chinese silk fabric, is famous for its lightness and softness. Due to its difficulty in weaving and the lack of development in line with contemporary trends, it gradually disappeared from people's vision. Therefore, in order to clarify the color matching rules of traditional woven fabrics and complete the redesign of the intangible cultural heritage of woven fabrics, this paper introduces the K-means clustering algorithm to extract the main colors of the sorted images of woven fabrics and similar fabrics, and build a standard color card. The model with color network. Taking the design of Luo and silk products produced in Wuluo—ancient Wu land as a practical case, it is verified that Luo fabric standard color card and color network model can provide a theoretical basis for the redesign of Luo products, and provide inspiration and inspiration for Luo's color design. Decision-making suggestions to promote the inheritance and development of Wuluo intangible cultural heritage.
{"title":"Color Analysis and Application of Luo Fabric Based on Clustering Algorithm","authors":"Ren Long, Wenyi Han, Xin Zeng, Yiming Wang, Mei Ming Xiong","doi":"10.54941/ahfe1001549","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.54941/ahfe1001549","url":null,"abstract":"Luo, a traditional Chinese silk fabric, is famous for its lightness and softness. Due to its difficulty in weaving and the lack of development in line with contemporary trends, it gradually disappeared from people's vision. Therefore, in order to clarify the color matching rules of traditional woven fabrics and complete the redesign of the intangible cultural heritage of woven fabrics, this paper introduces the K-means clustering algorithm to extract the main colors of the sorted images of woven fabrics and similar fabrics, and build a standard color card. The model with color network. Taking the design of Luo and silk products produced in Wuluo—ancient Wu land as a practical case, it is verified that Luo fabric standard color card and color network model can provide a theoretical basis for the redesign of Luo products, and provide inspiration and inspiration for Luo's color design. Decision-making suggestions to promote the inheritance and development of Wuluo intangible cultural heritage.","PeriodicalId":448346,"journal":{"name":"Human Factors for Apparel and Textile Engineering","volume":"12 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"1900-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"121786329","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Carla Costa Pereira, Sharma Deepshikha, Cristina Carvalho
Considering the sensory experience of the user as a clothing buyer and taking into account that the sense of touch is extremely important in the recognition of products by people with vision problems, this investigation aims to find out if touch is essentially a decisive buying factor. In this sense, and considering the practical work carried out among visually impaired people on the touch of the fabrics most used in everyday clothing, along with reviewing the existing literature on apparel user and consumer behaviour, this work may benefit the planning of a more inclusive wardrobe.
{"title":"Inclusive Wardrobe - Touching and wearing different types of fabrics among visually impaired people.","authors":"Carla Costa Pereira, Sharma Deepshikha, Cristina Carvalho","doi":"10.54941/ahfe1003645","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.54941/ahfe1003645","url":null,"abstract":"Considering the sensory experience of the user as a clothing buyer and taking into account that the sense of touch is extremely important in the recognition of products by people with vision problems, this investigation aims to find out if touch is essentially a decisive buying factor. In this sense, and considering the practical work carried out among visually impaired people on the touch of the fabrics most used in everyday clothing, along with reviewing the existing literature on apparel user and consumer behaviour, this work may benefit the planning of a more inclusive wardrobe.","PeriodicalId":448346,"journal":{"name":"Human Factors for Apparel and Textile Engineering","volume":"1 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"1900-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"130747558","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
This study aims to reflect on the role of different actors - industry, academia, designer, user - in the adoption of more sustainable production and consumption practices of textile products. Problems become more and more complex, due to the convergences of knowledge, and this affects the way textile designers work and consequently how textile design education should adapt. It is essential to prepare textile designers to face these new challenges that demand new ways of working. The methodology was carried out through literature review and data collection, to analyze the fundamental concepts and develop awareness strategies about sustainability and circular economy allowing to understand their importance between the different actors. The article concludes that there are fundamental skills for the textile designer to be able to respond to these challenges and that a transdisciplinary approach can be a way forward in a closer dialogue between industry and academia.
{"title":"The textile designer skills to face the emerging challenges of textile industry and the role of academia","authors":"S. Seixas, G. Montagna, Maria João Felix","doi":"10.54941/ahfe1001534","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.54941/ahfe1001534","url":null,"abstract":"This study aims to reflect on the role of different actors - industry, academia, designer, user - in the adoption of more sustainable production and consumption practices of textile products. Problems become more and more complex, due to the convergences of knowledge, and this affects the way textile designers work and consequently how textile design education should adapt. It is essential to prepare textile designers to face these new challenges that demand new ways of working. The methodology was carried out through literature review and data collection, to analyze the fundamental concepts and develop awareness strategies about sustainability and circular economy allowing to understand their importance between the different actors. The article concludes that there are fundamental skills for the textile designer to be able to respond to these challenges and that a transdisciplinary approach can be a way forward in a closer dialogue between industry and academia.","PeriodicalId":448346,"journal":{"name":"Human Factors for Apparel and Textile Engineering","volume":"104 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"1900-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"122542081","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Benedetta Cerulo, F. Papile, M. Motta, A. Marinelli, Giovanni Maria Conti, B. Del Curto
Textile products, a synthesis of the complex relationship between physical and sensory characteristics, have always played a fundamental role in the culture of furniture design projects. Like many other production sectors, the furniture one in recent years has been called to meet the growing demand for conversion to sustainability both in terms of processes and raw materials, since most of the time disassembly is very difficult and the padding material is generally difficult to reuse, recycle, or recover when furniture pieces are dismissed. 3D knitting allows reducing the productive steps, consequently, i.e. reducing the supply chain. Moreover, it allows the development of local and on-demand production systems and, lends itself to the use of recycled materials. Finally, at the end of life of furniture pieces, the above-mentioned technology facilitates the recycling of yarns and drastically reduces the possibilities of exploitation of labor. In addition, the use of this process in furniture design has the potential to answer to the strong demand for circularity that the furniture sector is asking for. This research focuses on the relationship between innovative textile technological processes and furniture design (upholstered sofas and armchairs in particular). This study aims to investigate how the 3D knitting process, can contribute in terms of sustainable production in the furniture sector. The technological transfer has been studied either in literature and with direct dialogue with industrial 3D knitting experts. Through this research, it has been possible to demonstrate that the process is not limited to reducing production waste but also to bringing environmental, economic, and social benefits. In fact, 3D knitting allows companies to reduce the size of the product during transport, meeting the trend of flat packaging, allowing the replacement of polyurethane foams in upholstery with recycled and recyclable materials and ultimately leading to a different conception of the furniture product. 3D knitting brings the designer to conceive furniture in a completely new and different way, simple and easy to disassemble, factors that are fundamental principles of circularity design. To provide an output that was not only illustrative but also functional to the designer, in the second part of the research, some specific design guidelines for 3D knitted upholstery have been defined. The guidelines have been established through an overview of the basics of knitwear, the explanation of the machines and their operations, case studies and samples collection, and interactions with 3D knitting industries. Thanks to these guidelines it is possible to guide the designer in the early stages of the development of a 3D knitted product. A final case study on the guidelines application is also provided. This research has allowed to shed light on a process still little known in the world of product design, identifying the potential for the creation of circular pr
{"title":"3D knitting for upholstery: guidelines to design at the interface of sustainable fashion and furniture.","authors":"Benedetta Cerulo, F. Papile, M. Motta, A. Marinelli, Giovanni Maria Conti, B. Del Curto","doi":"10.54941/ahfe1001547","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.54941/ahfe1001547","url":null,"abstract":"Textile products, a synthesis of the complex relationship between physical and sensory characteristics, have always played a fundamental role in the culture of furniture design projects. Like many other production sectors, the furniture one in recent years has been called to meet the growing demand for conversion to sustainability both in terms of processes and raw materials, since most of the time disassembly is very difficult and the padding material is generally difficult to reuse, recycle, or recover when furniture pieces are dismissed. 3D knitting allows reducing the productive steps, consequently, i.e. reducing the supply chain. Moreover, it allows the development of local and on-demand production systems and, lends itself to the use of recycled materials. Finally, at the end of life of furniture pieces, the above-mentioned technology facilitates the recycling of yarns and drastically reduces the possibilities of exploitation of labor. In addition, the use of this process in furniture design has the potential to answer to the strong demand for circularity that the furniture sector is asking for. This research focuses on the relationship between innovative textile technological processes and furniture design (upholstered sofas and armchairs in particular). This study aims to investigate how the 3D knitting process, can contribute in terms of sustainable production in the furniture sector. The technological transfer has been studied either in literature and with direct dialogue with industrial 3D knitting experts. Through this research, it has been possible to demonstrate that the process is not limited to reducing production waste but also to bringing environmental, economic, and social benefits. In fact, 3D knitting allows companies to reduce the size of the product during transport, meeting the trend of flat packaging, allowing the replacement of polyurethane foams in upholstery with recycled and recyclable materials and ultimately leading to a different conception of the furniture product. 3D knitting brings the designer to conceive furniture in a completely new and different way, simple and easy to disassemble, factors that are fundamental principles of circularity design. To provide an output that was not only illustrative but also functional to the designer, in the second part of the research, some specific design guidelines for 3D knitted upholstery have been defined. The guidelines have been established through an overview of the basics of knitwear, the explanation of the machines and their operations, case studies and samples collection, and interactions with 3D knitting industries. Thanks to these guidelines it is possible to guide the designer in the early stages of the development of a 3D knitted product. A final case study on the guidelines application is also provided. This research has allowed to shed light on a process still little known in the world of product design, identifying the potential for the creation of circular pr","PeriodicalId":448346,"journal":{"name":"Human Factors for Apparel and Textile Engineering","volume":"5 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"1900-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"121103496","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Ah Pun Chan, Wai Ching Chu, Kwan Yu Lo, Kai Yuen Cheong
Background3D virtual simulation prototyping software combined with computer-aided manufacturing systems are widely used and are becoming essential in the fashion industry in the earlier stages of the product development process for apparel design. These technologies streamline the garment product fitting procedures, as well as improve the supply chain environmentally, socially, and economically by eliminating large volumes of redundant samples. Buyers can easily evaluate virtual samples that are showcased with full rotation views and visual draping effects without relying on physical prototypes before confirming orders. The approved designs can be transferred to the production line immediately, which shortens the communication, development, and production lead time between suppliers and buyers. Issues of non-standardized selection on garment sizing, ease allowance, and size of 3D avatar for creating 3D garments have been addressed by many researchers. Understanding the relationship between body dimensions, ease allowance, and apparel sizes before adopting virtual garment simulation is fundamental for satisfying high customer demands in the apparel industry. However, designers find difficulties providing the appropriate garment fit for customers without fully understanding the motivation and emotions of customers’ fitting preferences in a virtual world.A statement of objective The main purpose of this study is to investigate apparel sizes for virtual fitting, particularly looking at garment ease with consideration to body dimensions and the psychographic characteristics of subjects.SignificanceThe quantitative relationship between the pattern measurements, psychological characteristics, and 3D body measurements contributes to improving virtual fit predictions for implementing mass customization in the apparel industry. This new approach and the proposed method of virtual garment fitting model prediction on garment sizes using an Artificial Neural Network (ANN) is significant in prediction accuracy. The results of this project provide sustainable value in providing an ideal communication tool between manufacturers, retailers, and consumers by offering “perfect fit” products to customers. The project will also achieve the concept of mass customization and customer orientation, and generate new size fitting data that could bring a new level of end-user satisfaction.MethodsThe study proposes to develop a virtual garment fitting prediction model using an ANN for improving virtual garment design in terms of its fitting and sizing. The project investigated apparel sizes for virtual fitting with consideration of body dimensions and psychographic characteristics of subjects on garment ease for improving the size prediction of 3D garments. We recruited 50 subjects between the ages 18-35 years old to conduct 3D body scans and a questionnaire survey for physical and psychological segmentation, as well as fitting preferences evaluation through co-design operat
{"title":"Improving the Apparel Virtual Size Fitting Prediction under Psychographic Characteristics and 3D Body Measurements Using Artificial Neural Network","authors":"Ah Pun Chan, Wai Ching Chu, Kwan Yu Lo, Kai Yuen Cheong","doi":"10.54941/ahfe1001543","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.54941/ahfe1001543","url":null,"abstract":"Background3D virtual simulation prototyping software combined with computer-aided manufacturing systems are widely used and are becoming essential in the fashion industry in the earlier stages of the product development process for apparel design. These technologies streamline the garment product fitting procedures, as well as improve the supply chain environmentally, socially, and economically by eliminating large volumes of redundant samples. Buyers can easily evaluate virtual samples that are showcased with full rotation views and visual draping effects without relying on physical prototypes before confirming orders. The approved designs can be transferred to the production line immediately, which shortens the communication, development, and production lead time between suppliers and buyers. Issues of non-standardized selection on garment sizing, ease allowance, and size of 3D avatar for creating 3D garments have been addressed by many researchers. Understanding the relationship between body dimensions, ease allowance, and apparel sizes before adopting virtual garment simulation is fundamental for satisfying high customer demands in the apparel industry. However, designers find difficulties providing the appropriate garment fit for customers without fully understanding the motivation and emotions of customers’ fitting preferences in a virtual world.A statement of objective The main purpose of this study is to investigate apparel sizes for virtual fitting, particularly looking at garment ease with consideration to body dimensions and the psychographic characteristics of subjects.SignificanceThe quantitative relationship between the pattern measurements, psychological characteristics, and 3D body measurements contributes to improving virtual fit predictions for implementing mass customization in the apparel industry. This new approach and the proposed method of virtual garment fitting model prediction on garment sizes using an Artificial Neural Network (ANN) is significant in prediction accuracy. The results of this project provide sustainable value in providing an ideal communication tool between manufacturers, retailers, and consumers by offering “perfect fit” products to customers. The project will also achieve the concept of mass customization and customer orientation, and generate new size fitting data that could bring a new level of end-user satisfaction.MethodsThe study proposes to develop a virtual garment fitting prediction model using an ANN for improving virtual garment design in terms of its fitting and sizing. The project investigated apparel sizes for virtual fitting with consideration of body dimensions and psychographic characteristics of subjects on garment ease for improving the size prediction of 3D garments. We recruited 50 subjects between the ages 18-35 years old to conduct 3D body scans and a questionnaire survey for physical and psychological segmentation, as well as fitting preferences evaluation through co-design operat","PeriodicalId":448346,"journal":{"name":"Human Factors for Apparel and Textile Engineering","volume":"18 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"1900-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"134094593","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Alexandra Gabriela Ene, M. Jomir, Constantin Jomir, C. Mihai, Sorin Mihai Radu
In marine transport, the risks leading to disasters are associated to the sea and its hazards; in particular, being related both to the state of the ship, competency of the crew members and to the transport of hazardous chemical products or nuclear wastes. Seen from another point of view, spilled oil represents an extremely precious raw material resource, which, through efficient processing, can be reintroduced into the economic value chain. For this purpose, oil fractions can be collected by various means and transported from the spill site to the areas specially designed for the reprocessing treatments application. The naval emergency shuttle (NES) is a floating, collapsible and towable unit fabricated from textile-reinforced composite material that is used for vertical temporary storage and horizontal transport of water – petroleum hydrocarbon (crude oil) compound recovered after various disasters occurred in the brackish sea habitat. The new developed NES innovative solution involves advanced materials based on composite structures with textile matrix covered with hypalon for construction of the main shuttle module architecture and with PVC for the two floating elements achievement. Advanced techniques (for joining the panels) and certified methods (for threads and composite materials experimentation) have been used in order to evaluate the mechanical, chemical, structural characteristics for: threads (100%PA6.6 – 600dtex x 3 and 300dtex x 3; 100%PES 250 x 3 dtex), the composite materials (matrix covered with neoprene, PVC and hypalon) and the types of joints that will be used in its construction. The composite materials were joined using different techniques and seams (301-LSa-1, 301-SSd2-4, 301-SSa-1, etc.) and were tested to assess the maximum strength and elongation at maximum force and tear strength (wing shaped composite material specimen). The management of the obtained data collection consisting of: resistance to breaking, loop and knot - for 3 types of thread used to join the panels; strength, elongation at break and tear force for 3 type-dimensions of specimens (trouser, wing and tongue shaped composite material specimens. During the experimental trials the performed statistical analyses evidenced that the statistical populations are homogeneous (coefficient of variability is max. 13%, for the joint composite material), so the parametric tests can be applied, the identified higher values (compared with averages) of the outliers do not have a negative impact and will not influence the behavior of the NES in real conditions (open sea with possible 4 – 6 Beaufort degree). The conclusions obtained as a result of the statistical analysis enabled the establishment of value ranges for the technical-operational characteristics of the NES, respectively: storage capacity: 5 m3 -500 m3; maximum navigation speed: 3 knots; length: 17.7 – 25m, width: 4.1 – 5 m; breaking strength: min. 500 daN; tearing force: min. 800 N.
{"title":"Experimental Data Management for the Panel Joints of the Naval Emergency Shuttle","authors":"Alexandra Gabriela Ene, M. Jomir, Constantin Jomir, C. Mihai, Sorin Mihai Radu","doi":"10.54941/ahfe1003640","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.54941/ahfe1003640","url":null,"abstract":"In marine transport, the risks leading to disasters are associated to the sea and its hazards; in particular, being related both to the state of the ship, competency of the crew members and to the transport of hazardous chemical products or nuclear wastes. Seen from another point of view, spilled oil represents an extremely precious raw material resource, which, through efficient processing, can be reintroduced into the economic value chain. For this purpose, oil fractions can be collected by various means and transported from the spill site to the areas specially designed for the reprocessing treatments application. The naval emergency shuttle (NES) is a floating, collapsible and towable unit fabricated from textile-reinforced composite material that is used for vertical temporary storage and horizontal transport of water – petroleum hydrocarbon (crude oil) compound recovered after various disasters occurred in the brackish sea habitat. The new developed NES innovative solution involves advanced materials based on composite structures with textile matrix covered with hypalon for construction of the main shuttle module architecture and with PVC for the two floating elements achievement. Advanced techniques (for joining the panels) and certified methods (for threads and composite materials experimentation) have been used in order to evaluate the mechanical, chemical, structural characteristics for: threads (100%PA6.6 – 600dtex x 3 and 300dtex x 3; 100%PES 250 x 3 dtex), the composite materials (matrix covered with neoprene, PVC and hypalon) and the types of joints that will be used in its construction. The composite materials were joined using different techniques and seams (301-LSa-1, 301-SSd2-4, 301-SSa-1, etc.) and were tested to assess the maximum strength and elongation at maximum force and tear strength (wing shaped composite material specimen). The management of the obtained data collection consisting of: resistance to breaking, loop and knot - for 3 types of thread used to join the panels; strength, elongation at break and tear force for 3 type-dimensions of specimens (trouser, wing and tongue shaped composite material specimens. During the experimental trials the performed statistical analyses evidenced that the statistical populations are homogeneous (coefficient of variability is max. 13%, for the joint composite material), so the parametric tests can be applied, the identified higher values (compared with averages) of the outliers do not have a negative impact and will not influence the behavior of the NES in real conditions (open sea with possible 4 – 6 Beaufort degree). The conclusions obtained as a result of the statistical analysis enabled the establishment of value ranges for the technical-operational characteristics of the NES, respectively: storage capacity: 5 m3 -500 m3; maximum navigation speed: 3 knots; length: 17.7 – 25m, width: 4.1 – 5 m; breaking strength: min. 500 daN; tearing force: min. 800 N.","PeriodicalId":448346,"journal":{"name":"Human Factors for Apparel and Textile Engineering","volume":"87 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"1900-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"115882954","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Women desire to be taller and to make their legs look longer, so they often wear high-heeled shoes and pantyhose. Our ultimate goal is to develop a pantyhose that reduces muscle fatigue when wearing high-heeled shoes. We applied the panty part of the support half pants that we developed in 2016 to the development of this sample and designed two types of pantyhose based on the appropriate pressure value that changes for each body part. (Mitsuno et al., 2018, 2022). When myoelectric potentials were measured at 8 points in the lower extremities at this time, there was a significant positive correlation between muscle activity in bare feet and muscle activity when wearing high heels and pantyhose B/when wearing low heels and pantyhose A. From this, even if we wear high-heeled shoes, we can reproduce muscle activity close to that of bare feet by wearing pantyhose that matches the shoes. We thought that this change was related to the change in posture when wearing shoes and pantyhose and investigated the change in posture and the use of muscles. Two-dimensional postural images of the right half of the participant's body were taken. To define the orientation of the participant's head and trunk, a 50 cm square was drawn on the floor and a vertical line was added through the midpoint of top side. The participant was instructed to stand across this line so that the front-back median plane of the participant was projected onto the floor, and to look forward. In addition, a guide rod was worn on the top of the participant's head along the anteroposterior median plane, and the line passing through the vertical midpoint of the square at the foot and the guide rod on the top of the head was aligned with the position which they were so as to always overlap or be in equilibrium. The standing position was corrected using two mirrors so that the head and body would not twist. Reflectors (10 mm diameter hemisphere made own) are placed at 10 points: the vertex of the head, acromion, lateral malleolus, the midpoint of the waist/groin/knee/calf, pelvic head, anterior superior iliac spine, and posterior superior iliac. The participant's posture was photographed under 12 conditions when wearing two types of stockings: barefoot, running, low-heeled shoes, and high-heeled shoes. We assumed that the angles formed by the body axis I connecting the acromion point and the waist, the body axis II connecting the acromion point and the calf, and the line connecting the iliac crest and the anterior superior iliac spine are angles a and b, respectively. In addition, the horizontal distance between the lateral malleolus and the vertex/acromion was determined. When correlation coefficients between these four observation items were calculated, there was a significant positive correlation between angles a and b, and there was also a significant positive correlation between the horizontal movement distance of the top of the head and the acromion point. There was also a significant negat
女人想要更高，让自己的腿看起来更长，所以她们经常穿高跟鞋和连裤袜。我们的最终目标是开发一种可以减少穿高跟鞋时肌肉疲劳的连裤袜。我们将2016年开发的支撑半裤的裤袜部分应用到这个样品的开发中，并根据每个身体部位变化的合适压力值设计了两种类型的裤袜。(Mitsuno et al.， 2018,2022)。此时测量下肢8个点的肌电电位，赤脚时的肌肉活动与穿高跟鞋连裤袜B时的肌肉活动/穿低跟连裤袜a时的肌肉活动呈显著正相关，由此可见，即使我们穿高跟鞋，也可以通过穿与鞋子相匹配的连裤袜来重现接近赤脚时的肌肉活动。我们认为这种变化与穿鞋和连裤袜时姿势的变化有关，并调查了姿势的变化和肌肉的使用。研究人员拍摄了参与者右半边身体的二维姿势图像。为了确定参与者的头部和躯干的方向，在地板上画了一个50厘米的正方形，并通过顶部的中点添加了一条垂直线。参与者被要求站在这条线上，这样参与者的前后中间平面就会投射到地板上，并向前看。此外，在受试者头顶沿前后正中面佩戴导杆，并将穿过足部方形垂直中点的线与头顶导杆对齐，使其始终重合或处于平衡状态。用两个镜子矫正了站立姿势，这样头部和身体就不会扭曲。反射镜(10毫米直径的半球自制)放置在10个点:头顶点、肩峰、外踝、腰/腹股沟/膝/小腿中点、骨盆头、髂前上棘、髂后上棘。在12种情况下，参与者穿着两种类型的丝袜:赤脚、跑步、低跟和高跟鞋，拍摄了他们的姿势。我们假设连接肩峰点与腰的体轴I、连接肩峰点与小腿的体轴II、连接髂骨与髂前上棘的线所形成的角分别为角a和角b。此外，测定外踝与顶点/肩峰之间的水平距离。计算4个观测项目间的相关系数时，角度a与角度b之间存在显著正相关，头顶水平移动距离与肩峰点之间也存在显著正相关。角a/b与顶点水平移动距离呈显著负相关。由此，a和b的角度越小，骨盆就越向前旋转，头部也就越向前移动。穿连裤袜时，角度a、b变小，即骨盆向前旋转，小腿的姿势发生变化，但平衡是通过改变头、肩的位置来实现的。当参与者穿上高跟鞋并变得更高时，她的肩膀向后移动以平衡向前移动的头部。在未来，有必要增加研究对象的数量，并根据他们赤脚站立的姿势对他们进行分类，并研究这些关系。
{"title":"A pilot study of posture change when wearing high-heeled shoes and pantyhose","authors":"T. Mitsuno, Sayuki Kondo","doi":"10.54941/ahfe1003638","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.54941/ahfe1003638","url":null,"abstract":"Women desire to be taller and to make their legs look longer, so they often wear high-heeled shoes and pantyhose. Our ultimate goal is to develop a pantyhose that reduces muscle fatigue when wearing high-heeled shoes. We applied the panty part of the support half pants that we developed in 2016 to the development of this sample and designed two types of pantyhose based on the appropriate pressure value that changes for each body part. (Mitsuno et al., 2018, 2022). When myoelectric potentials were measured at 8 points in the lower extremities at this time, there was a significant positive correlation between muscle activity in bare feet and muscle activity when wearing high heels and pantyhose B/when wearing low heels and pantyhose A. From this, even if we wear high-heeled shoes, we can reproduce muscle activity close to that of bare feet by wearing pantyhose that matches the shoes. We thought that this change was related to the change in posture when wearing shoes and pantyhose and investigated the change in posture and the use of muscles. Two-dimensional postural images of the right half of the participant's body were taken. To define the orientation of the participant's head and trunk, a 50 cm square was drawn on the floor and a vertical line was added through the midpoint of top side. The participant was instructed to stand across this line so that the front-back median plane of the participant was projected onto the floor, and to look forward. In addition, a guide rod was worn on the top of the participant's head along the anteroposterior median plane, and the line passing through the vertical midpoint of the square at the foot and the guide rod on the top of the head was aligned with the position which they were so as to always overlap or be in equilibrium. The standing position was corrected using two mirrors so that the head and body would not twist. Reflectors (10 mm diameter hemisphere made own) are placed at 10 points: the vertex of the head, acromion, lateral malleolus, the midpoint of the waist/groin/knee/calf, pelvic head, anterior superior iliac spine, and posterior superior iliac. The participant's posture was photographed under 12 conditions when wearing two types of stockings: barefoot, running, low-heeled shoes, and high-heeled shoes. We assumed that the angles formed by the body axis I connecting the acromion point and the waist, the body axis II connecting the acromion point and the calf, and the line connecting the iliac crest and the anterior superior iliac spine are angles a and b, respectively. In addition, the horizontal distance between the lateral malleolus and the vertex/acromion was determined. When correlation coefficients between these four observation items were calculated, there was a significant positive correlation between angles a and b, and there was also a significant positive correlation between the horizontal movement distance of the top of the head and the acromion point. There was also a significant negat","PeriodicalId":448346,"journal":{"name":"Human Factors for Apparel and Textile Engineering","volume":"145 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"1900-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"115906961","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Many private companies and public bodies in authoritarian and democratic states have joined facial recognition technology, used for various purposes. This situation is due to the general absence of a specific regulation that monitors its use. There is no consensus in society regarding the ethics of this technology. Furthermore, there are many doubts concerning the long-term ethical sustainability of facial recognition and its compliance with the law. A problem that emerges from the use of this technology is its obscurity. We do not know who is responsible for the decision automatically made; we do not know how the data is used by those who collect it, how long this data is kept, who can have access to it, to whom it is sent, and how this is used to create a profile. In addition, facial recognition systems are powered by numerous images collected from the Internet and social media without users' permission: it is, therefore, impossible to trace the origin of the data. Consequently, any citizen could be classified, most likely discriminated against, and become the victim of an algorithm. The boundary between security and control is decidedly blurred: many cameras do not respect the privacy of individuals and often harm human rights when they are used to discriminate, accuse, power, and manipulate people. From this discussion on privacy and human rights, it was born first the desire to create awareness, in particular regarding these technologies and the possible issues linked to them. Secondly, it was born the will to create a product that would be the spokesperson for these concerns and allow citizens to protect themselves. On this basis, a collaboration between fashion, engineering, and textile has developed to produce fabric and then garments, which confuse facial recognition systems in real-time. The technological innovation aims to create a system capable of generating adversarial knitted patches that can confuse the systems that capture biometric data. By integrating an adversarial algorithm into their jacquard motifs, the garments prevent the wearers from being identified, preserving their privacy. The adversarial textile is made with computerized knitting machines. Compared to a printed image, knitwear acquires texture, durability, wearability, and practicability. Furthermore, a knitted fabric allows modifying the single yarn material based on the results and performance we want to obtain. These fabrics have been tested on Yolo, the fastest and most advanced algorithm for real-time object recognition. The project was born in New York in 2019; the first experiments with computerized knitting machines were carried out at the Politecnico di Milano in January 2020. The textile was developed in the workshops of the Shenkar College of Tel Aviv. On February 8, 2021, the patent of the industrial process to produce the adversarial knitted textile was filed, with the patronage of the Politecnico di Milano. Today, the research on this fabric and these
专制国家和民主国家的许多私营公司和公共机构都加入了用于各种目的的面部识别技术。这种情况是由于普遍缺乏监督其使用的具体规定。关于这项技术的伦理问题，社会上还没有达成共识。此外，人们对面部识别的长期道德可持续性及其是否符合法律存在许多疑问。使用这种技术产生的一个问题是它的模糊性。我们不知道谁对自动做出的决定负责;我们不知道那些收集数据的人是如何使用这些数据的，这些数据保存了多长时间，谁可以访问它，它被发送给谁，以及如何使用这些数据来创建一个配置文件。此外，面部识别系统是由未经用户许可从互联网和社交媒体上收集的大量图像驱动的:因此，无法追踪数据的来源。因此，任何公民都可能被分类，很可能受到歧视，并成为算法的受害者。安全和控制之间的界限显然是模糊的:许多摄像机不尊重个人隐私，当它们被用来歧视、指控、权力和操纵人时，往往会损害人权。从这次关于隐私和人权的讨论中，首先产生了提高意识的愿望，特别是关于这些技术及其相关的可能问题。其次，它产生了创造一种产品的意愿，这种产品将成为这些担忧的代言人，并允许公民保护自己。在此基础上，时尚、工程和纺织品之间的合作已经发展到生产面料，然后是服装，这可以实时迷惑面部识别系统。这项技术创新的目的是创建一个系统，能够生成对抗性的编织补丁，从而迷惑捕获生物特征数据的系统。通过将对抗算法集成到提花图案中，这些衣服可以防止穿着者被识别，保护他们的隐私。对抗性纺织品是由电脑针织机制成的。与印刷图像相比，针织品具有质地，耐用性，可穿戴性和实用性。此外，针织物允许根据我们想要获得的结果和性能修改单纱材料。这些织物已经在Yolo上进行了测试，Yolo是最快、最先进的实时物体识别算法。该项目于2019年在纽约诞生;2020年1月，在米兰理工大学进行了第一次计算机化针织机实验。这种纺织品是在特拉维夫申卡尔学院的车间开发的。2021年2月8日，在米兰理工大学(Politecnico di Milano)的赞助下，生产对抗性针织纺织品的工业过程专利被提交。今天，对这种织物和这些主题的研究已经在博士学位中进行，结合了以人为本的设计和工程。
{"title":"CAPABLE: Engineering, textile, and fashion Collaboration, for citizens' Awareness and Privacy Protection","authors":"Rachele Didero, Giovanni Maria Conti","doi":"10.54941/ahfe1001536","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.54941/ahfe1001536","url":null,"abstract":"Many private companies and public bodies in authoritarian and democratic states have joined facial recognition technology, used for various purposes. This situation is due to the general absence of a specific regulation that monitors its use. There is no consensus in society regarding the ethics of this technology. Furthermore, there are many doubts concerning the long-term ethical sustainability of facial recognition and its compliance with the law. A problem that emerges from the use of this technology is its obscurity. We do not know who is responsible for the decision automatically made; we do not know how the data is used by those who collect it, how long this data is kept, who can have access to it, to whom it is sent, and how this is used to create a profile. In addition, facial recognition systems are powered by numerous images collected from the Internet and social media without users' permission: it is, therefore, impossible to trace the origin of the data. Consequently, any citizen could be classified, most likely discriminated against, and become the victim of an algorithm. The boundary between security and control is decidedly blurred: many cameras do not respect the privacy of individuals and often harm human rights when they are used to discriminate, accuse, power, and manipulate people. From this discussion on privacy and human rights, it was born first the desire to create awareness, in particular regarding these technologies and the possible issues linked to them. Secondly, it was born the will to create a product that would be the spokesperson for these concerns and allow citizens to protect themselves. On this basis, a collaboration between fashion, engineering, and textile has developed to produce fabric and then garments, which confuse facial recognition systems in real-time. The technological innovation aims to create a system capable of generating adversarial knitted patches that can confuse the systems that capture biometric data. By integrating an adversarial algorithm into their jacquard motifs, the garments prevent the wearers from being identified, preserving their privacy. The adversarial textile is made with computerized knitting machines. Compared to a printed image, knitwear acquires texture, durability, wearability, and practicability. Furthermore, a knitted fabric allows modifying the single yarn material based on the results and performance we want to obtain. These fabrics have been tested on Yolo, the fastest and most advanced algorithm for real-time object recognition. The project was born in New York in 2019; the first experiments with computerized knitting machines were carried out at the Politecnico di Milano in January 2020. The textile was developed in the workshops of the Shenkar College of Tel Aviv. On February 8, 2021, the patent of the industrial process to produce the adversarial knitted textile was filed, with the patronage of the Politecnico di Milano. Today, the research on this fabric and these ","PeriodicalId":448346,"journal":{"name":"Human Factors for Apparel and Textile Engineering","volume":"71 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"1900-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"130841652","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Alexandra Gabriela Ene, L. Secăreanu, O. Iordache, M. Blaga, C. Lite
Since the beginning of the present century, tests have shown that some types of clay can present antibacterial activity. In addition, the clay considered for pharmaceutical and cosmetic products have been found to be non-toxic and non-irritating materials, therefore, the use of these types of clay for cosmetic and pharmaceutical purposes has increased in recent years. The above being said, different types of clay have been used over time due to their antibacterial properties, but the analytical methods for their characterization are just beginning to develop. This article is part of a study having as main objective the development of multifunctional antimicrobial textile materials to prevent fungal and bacterial proliferation, thus creating an antimicrobial shield for the human body, especially for blemish-prone skin. In this paperwork, a commercial blue clay was characterized through modern techniques. One of these techniques is X-ray Diffraction (XRD). Coupling SEM with an Energy Dispersive X-Ray detector (EDX), complete information of the morphology and elemental composition of the clay powder can be obtained. Additionally, a microbiological characterization was also performed in order to assess the anti fungal properties. Thus, the obtained results provided an overview of the main features of the selected blue clay. Further studies will be directed to the development of different types of clay-based dispersion and also for the characterization of different types of textile materials, in order to choose a "clay-textile" pair with improved antimicrobial activity.
{"title":"Characterization Studies of A Commercial Blue Clay For Cosmetic Textiles With Antibacterial Activity","authors":"Alexandra Gabriela Ene, L. Secăreanu, O. Iordache, M. Blaga, C. Lite","doi":"10.54941/ahfe1003642","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.54941/ahfe1003642","url":null,"abstract":"Since the beginning of the present century, tests have shown that some types of clay can present antibacterial activity. In addition, the clay considered for pharmaceutical and cosmetic products have been found to be non-toxic and non-irritating materials, therefore, the use of these types of clay for cosmetic and pharmaceutical purposes has increased in recent years. The above being said, different types of clay have been used over time due to their antibacterial properties, but the analytical methods for their characterization are just beginning to develop. This article is part of a study having as main objective the development of multifunctional antimicrobial textile materials to prevent fungal and bacterial proliferation, thus creating an antimicrobial shield for the human body, especially for blemish-prone skin. In this paperwork, a commercial blue clay was characterized through modern techniques. One of these techniques is X-ray Diffraction (XRD). Coupling SEM with an Energy Dispersive X-Ray detector (EDX), complete information of the morphology and elemental composition of the clay powder can be obtained. Additionally, a microbiological characterization was also performed in order to assess the anti fungal properties. Thus, the obtained results provided an overview of the main features of the selected blue clay. Further studies will be directed to the development of different types of clay-based dispersion and also for the characterization of different types of textile materials, in order to choose a \"clay-textile\" pair with improved antimicrobial activity.","PeriodicalId":448346,"journal":{"name":"Human Factors for Apparel and Textile Engineering","volume":"73 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"1900-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"134012906","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Hong Kong is often playfully called the “Frozen City” because the air-conditioning in many buildings operates at frigid temperatures during the summer. However, the large temperature differences between the external and internal environments could cause a large array of illnesses, especially children who are not aware of the temperature changes and are less likely to have self-care ability. Therefore, wearing appropriate undergarments or summer underwear could be one of the solutions. However, there are few studies that have investigated the thermal and tactile comfort of summer underwear. In this study, physical experiments, KES-FB measurements, and a wear trial are done to address the lack of studies. Seven conventional types of materials for undergarments are tested. The results indicate that lighter, thinner, and low stitch density fabrics constructed with uniform filaments increase breathability and enhance moisture wicking. Also, uniform fibres increase the thermal conductivity thus enhancing a cooler feeling. In regards tactile comfort, lighter and thinner materials with a higher percentage of elastane, finer yarn, and uniform and long fibres offer a softer, smoother, and cooler hand feel. In addition, the pure cotton material appears to more regulate body temperature as the resultant undergarment facilitates a higher rate of perspiration despite clinging. These results are a good reference for materials scientists, textile researchers as well as academics to further related research work.
{"title":"Investigating the Factors Affecting the Thermal and Tactile Comfort of Summer Undergarments","authors":"Kapo Lee, J. Yip, Kit Lun Yick","doi":"10.54941/ahfe1001537","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.54941/ahfe1001537","url":null,"abstract":"Hong Kong is often playfully called the “Frozen City” because the air-conditioning in many buildings operates at frigid temperatures during the summer. However, the large temperature differences between the external and internal environments could cause a large array of illnesses, especially children who are not aware of the temperature changes and are less likely to have self-care ability. Therefore, wearing appropriate undergarments or summer underwear could be one of the solutions. However, there are few studies that have investigated the thermal and tactile comfort of summer underwear. In this study, physical experiments, KES-FB measurements, and a wear trial are done to address the lack of studies. Seven conventional types of materials for undergarments are tested. The results indicate that lighter, thinner, and low stitch density fabrics constructed with uniform filaments increase breathability and enhance moisture wicking. Also, uniform fibres increase the thermal conductivity thus enhancing a cooler feeling. In regards tactile comfort, lighter and thinner materials with a higher percentage of elastane, finer yarn, and uniform and long fibres offer a softer, smoother, and cooler hand feel. In addition, the pure cotton material appears to more regulate body temperature as the resultant undergarment facilitates a higher rate of perspiration despite clinging. These results are a good reference for materials scientists, textile researchers as well as academics to further related research work.","PeriodicalId":448346,"journal":{"name":"Human Factors for Apparel and Textile Engineering","volume":"27 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"1900-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"132177810","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
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