{"title":"Masculinity, Fashion, and Design History","authors":"Joseph McBrinn","doi":"10.1093/jdh/epad046","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1093/jdh/epad046","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":45088,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Design History","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2023-12-23","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"139161061","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"艺术学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"A Rhapsody of Chairs","authors":"Joana Albernaz Delgado","doi":"10.1093/jdh/epad045","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1093/jdh/epad045","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":45088,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Design History","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2023-12-11","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"138979503","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"艺术学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
This article explores the expansion of advertisements by Japanese consumer goods brands in Korea during the Japanese colonial period (1910–1945), focusing on the 1920s and early 1930s. It adopts the “colonial modernity” approach to examine Japanese advertising in Korea as an interface between Japanese and Korean non-state actors. It also uses transnational design history to investigate, more empirically, how these actors, such as manufacturers, consumers, advertising agencies, retailers, newspaper companies, practitioners, and the colonial government, contributed to the expansion and change of Japanese advertisements. It studies the cases of three Japanese brands, Morinaga (confectionery), Lion (toothpaste), and Ajinomoto (artificial seasoning), analyzing their advertisements and examining written records from the companies’ archives, their histories, and contemporary publications. By doing so it uncovers the negotiations, challenges, and tensions among the various actors involved in the Japanese brands’ advertising in Korea. The article argues that colonial modernity around Japanese advertising design was formed between or across Korea and Japan, by both Koreans and Japanese, and that through this gradual process of interaction and adaptation Japanese “national brands” transformed themselves into “imperial brands.”
{"title":"Becoming Imperial Brands: Japanese Advertising in Colonial Korea, 1920–1932","authors":"Yongkeun Chun","doi":"10.1093/jdh/epad050","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1093/jdh/epad050","url":null,"abstract":"This article explores the expansion of advertisements by Japanese consumer goods brands in Korea during the Japanese colonial period (1910–1945), focusing on the 1920s and early 1930s. It adopts the “colonial modernity” approach to examine Japanese advertising in Korea as an interface between Japanese and Korean non-state actors. It also uses transnational design history to investigate, more empirically, how these actors, such as manufacturers, consumers, advertising agencies, retailers, newspaper companies, practitioners, and the colonial government, contributed to the expansion and change of Japanese advertisements. It studies the cases of three Japanese brands, Morinaga (confectionery), Lion (toothpaste), and Ajinomoto (artificial seasoning), analyzing their advertisements and examining written records from the companies’ archives, their histories, and contemporary publications. By doing so it uncovers the negotiations, challenges, and tensions among the various actors involved in the Japanese brands’ advertising in Korea. The article argues that colonial modernity around Japanese advertising design was formed between or across Korea and Japan, by both Koreans and Japanese, and that through this gradual process of interaction and adaptation Japanese “national brands” transformed themselves into “imperial brands.”","PeriodicalId":45088,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Design History","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2023-12-10","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"138566234","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"艺术学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
In 1972, designer Emilio Ambasz (b. 1943) organized the symposium “The Universitas Project” at MoMA in New York City. The issue at stake was how the field of design should tackle the possibly irresolvable societal, political, and ecological problems of post-industrial society. Ambasz proposed a new design approach, which he named design as a mode of thought, with the aim of building a new research-education institution for design that could tackle the wicked problems ahead. In order to articulate his proposal, Ambasz turned to the speculative realm: discursive design critique, metaphysical cybernetics, design fiction, and storytelling. By critically engaging with some of the participants’ conference presentations, the article first discusses how the concept of the environment was reconfigured by the emerging ecological catastrophe. Then the article discusses ideological responses to the Universitas Project to show how the seemingly different ideological positions between French so-called “radical left” and American “right-wing technocrats” were grounded in the same; all-encompassing uncertainty and a strive for open-endedness. Finally, the article analyses Ambasz’s design fiction writing and the speculative nature of the Universitas and thereby identifies the Universitas as a rare moment in the history of design in which design stopped engaging in the status quo and turned towards a speculative future for finding seeds for new beginnings. The article re-visits the Universitas in order to support a presentist argument: that speculation, discursive design critique, and storytelling might not be sufficient methods on their own to tackle the forthcoming accelerating wicked uncertainties that lie ahead.
{"title":"Seeds for New Beginnings? Ecological Uncertainty, Blurry Ideology, and Speculative Design at the Universitas Symposium, 1972","authors":"Ingrid Halland","doi":"10.1093/jdh/epad040","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1093/jdh/epad040","url":null,"abstract":"In 1972, designer Emilio Ambasz (b. 1943) organized the symposium “The Universitas Project” at MoMA in New York City. The issue at stake was how the field of design should tackle the possibly irresolvable societal, political, and ecological problems of post-industrial society. Ambasz proposed a new design approach, which he named design as a mode of thought, with the aim of building a new research-education institution for design that could tackle the wicked problems ahead. In order to articulate his proposal, Ambasz turned to the speculative realm: discursive design critique, metaphysical cybernetics, design fiction, and storytelling. By critically engaging with some of the participants’ conference presentations, the article first discusses how the concept of the environment was reconfigured by the emerging ecological catastrophe. Then the article discusses ideological responses to the Universitas Project to show how the seemingly different ideological positions between French so-called “radical left” and American “right-wing technocrats” were grounded in the same; all-encompassing uncertainty and a strive for open-endedness. Finally, the article analyses Ambasz’s design fiction writing and the speculative nature of the Universitas and thereby identifies the Universitas as a rare moment in the history of design in which design stopped engaging in the status quo and turned towards a speculative future for finding seeds for new beginnings. The article re-visits the Universitas in order to support a presentist argument: that speculation, discursive design critique, and storytelling might not be sufficient methods on their own to tackle the forthcoming accelerating wicked uncertainties that lie ahead.","PeriodicalId":45088,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Design History","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2023-11-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"138512326","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"艺术学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Journal Article Taking Travel Home: The Souvenir Culture of British Women Tourists, 1750-1830 Get access Taking Travel Home: The Souvenir Culture of British Women Tourists, 1750-1830 Emma Gleadhill, Manchester University Press, 2022. 312 pp., cloth, £25.00. ISBN: 9781526155276. Freya Gowrley Freya Gowrley University of Bristol, Bristol, UK Email: freya.gowrley@bristol.ac.uk Search for other works by this author on: Oxford Academic Google Scholar Journal of Design History, epad048, https://doi.org/10.1093/jdh/epad048 Published: 13 November 2023
{"title":"Taking Travel Home: The Souvenir Culture of British Women Tourists, 1750-1830","authors":"Freya Gowrley","doi":"10.1093/jdh/epad048","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1093/jdh/epad048","url":null,"abstract":"Journal Article Taking Travel Home: The Souvenir Culture of British Women Tourists, 1750-1830 Get access Taking Travel Home: The Souvenir Culture of British Women Tourists, 1750-1830 Emma Gleadhill, Manchester University Press, 2022. 312 pp., cloth, £25.00. ISBN: 9781526155276. Freya Gowrley Freya Gowrley University of Bristol, Bristol, UK Email: freya.gowrley@bristol.ac.uk Search for other works by this author on: Oxford Academic Google Scholar Journal of Design History, epad048, https://doi.org/10.1093/jdh/epad048 Published: 13 November 2023","PeriodicalId":45088,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Design History","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-11-13","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"136282016","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"艺术学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Abstract Toward the end of the 1960s, the car industry in Japan was reaching its maturity, and it seemed increasingly certain that Japan’s future was firmly linked to cars. At the 16th and 17th Tokyo Motor Shows, in 1969 and 1970, an unprecedented number of show cars made by Japanese car manufacturers were introduced. At these shows, Toyota introduced a series of show cars, the EX-I, EX-II, EX-III, and EX-7, as well as the Commuter. The end of the 1960s was not just a turning point for the Japanese car industry but also for Japanese society as a whole. Through rapid (re)modernization, the country had attained economic wealth and power, but the consequences of modernization were becoming increasingly devastating. The anticipated and endorsed future was under revision when the news about pollution and political turmoil reached the nation’s media. Focusing on Toyota Motors, this article examines early Japanese “show cars” by approaching them from the viewpoint of the anticipated but complex and uncertain future at the turn of the 1960s to the 1970s. The purpose of this article is to analyze and summarize the future vision(s) of Toyota by applying a close analysis of the design objects.
{"title":"Envisioning the Future by Design: Toyota’s Show Cars at the 1969 and 1970 Tokyo Motor Shows","authors":"Frans Autio","doi":"10.1093/jdh/epad028","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1093/jdh/epad028","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Toward the end of the 1960s, the car industry in Japan was reaching its maturity, and it seemed increasingly certain that Japan’s future was firmly linked to cars. At the 16th and 17th Tokyo Motor Shows, in 1969 and 1970, an unprecedented number of show cars made by Japanese car manufacturers were introduced. At these shows, Toyota introduced a series of show cars, the EX-I, EX-II, EX-III, and EX-7, as well as the Commuter. The end of the 1960s was not just a turning point for the Japanese car industry but also for Japanese society as a whole. Through rapid (re)modernization, the country had attained economic wealth and power, but the consequences of modernization were becoming increasingly devastating. The anticipated and endorsed future was under revision when the news about pollution and political turmoil reached the nation’s media. Focusing on Toyota Motors, this article examines early Japanese “show cars” by approaching them from the viewpoint of the anticipated but complex and uncertain future at the turn of the 1960s to the 1970s. The purpose of this article is to analyze and summarize the future vision(s) of Toyota by applying a close analysis of the design objects.","PeriodicalId":45088,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Design History","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-11-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135975791","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"艺术学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Journal Article Design in Motion: Film Experiments at the BauhausDesigning Russian Cinema: The Production Artist and the Material Environment in Silent Era Film Get access Design in Motion: Film Experiments at the Bauhaus Laura A. Frahm, The MIT Press, 2022. 428 pp., 94 b&w and 20 col. illus., paper, $40.00. ISBN: 9780262045186.Designing Russian Cinema: The Production Artist and the Material Environment in Silent Era Film Eleanor Rees, Bloomsbury Academic, 2023. 256 pp., 25 b&w illus., cloth, $103.50. ISBN: 9781350246362. Lucy Fischer Lucy Fischer Distinguished Professor Emerita Film and Media Studies University of Pittsburgh Pittsburgh, USA Email: lfischer@pitt.edu Search for other works by this author on: Oxford Academic Google Scholar Journal of Design History, epad047, https://doi.org/10.1093/jdh/epad047 Published: 22 October 2023
{"title":"Design in Motion: Film Experiments at the BauhausDesigning Russian Cinema: The Production Artist and the Material Environment in Silent Era Film","authors":"Lucy Fischer","doi":"10.1093/jdh/epad047","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1093/jdh/epad047","url":null,"abstract":"Journal Article Design in Motion: Film Experiments at the BauhausDesigning Russian Cinema: The Production Artist and the Material Environment in Silent Era Film Get access Design in Motion: Film Experiments at the Bauhaus Laura A. Frahm, The MIT Press, 2022. 428 pp., 94 b&w and 20 col. illus., paper, $40.00. ISBN: 9780262045186.Designing Russian Cinema: The Production Artist and the Material Environment in Silent Era Film Eleanor Rees, Bloomsbury Academic, 2023. 256 pp., 25 b&w illus., cloth, $103.50. ISBN: 9781350246362. Lucy Fischer Lucy Fischer Distinguished Professor Emerita Film and Media Studies University of Pittsburgh Pittsburgh, USA Email: lfischer@pitt.edu Search for other works by this author on: Oxford Academic Google Scholar Journal of Design History, epad047, https://doi.org/10.1093/jdh/epad047 Published: 22 October 2023","PeriodicalId":45088,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Design History","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-10-22","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135461077","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"艺术学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Journal Article Lifestyle Revolution: How Taste Changed Class in Late Twentieth Century Britain Get access Lifestyle Revolution: How Taste Changed Class in Late Twentieth Century Britain Ben Highmore, Manchester University Press, 2023. 248 pp., cloth, £25.00, ISBN: 978-1-5261-0882-1 Alex J Taylor Alex J Taylor Associate Professor Department of History of Art and Architecture University of PittsburghPittsburgh, PA, USA Email: alex.taylor@pitt.edu Search for other works by this author on: Oxford Academic Google Scholar Journal of Design History, epad042, https://doi.org/10.1093/jdh/epad042 Published: 20 October 2023
期刊文章生活方式革命:品味如何改变阶级在20世纪后期的英国获得生活方式革命:品味如何改变阶级在20世纪后期的英国本·海莫尔，曼彻斯特大学出版社，2023。248页，布，25.00英镑，ISBN: 978-1-5261-0882-1 Alex J Taylor Alex J Taylor副教授匹兹堡大学艺术与建筑系匹兹堡，宾夕法尼亚州，美国电子邮件:alex.taylor@pitt.edu搜索作者的其他作品:牛津学术谷歌学者设计历史杂志，epad042, https://doi.org/10.1093/jdh/epad042出版:2023年10月20日
{"title":"Lifestyle Revolution: How Taste Changed Class in Late Twentieth Century Britain","authors":"Alex J Taylor","doi":"10.1093/jdh/epad042","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1093/jdh/epad042","url":null,"abstract":"Journal Article Lifestyle Revolution: How Taste Changed Class in Late Twentieth Century Britain Get access Lifestyle Revolution: How Taste Changed Class in Late Twentieth Century Britain Ben Highmore, Manchester University Press, 2023. 248 pp., cloth, £25.00, ISBN: 978-1-5261-0882-1 Alex J Taylor Alex J Taylor Associate Professor Department of History of Art and Architecture University of PittsburghPittsburgh, PA, USA Email: alex.taylor@pitt.edu Search for other works by this author on: Oxford Academic Google Scholar Journal of Design History, epad042, https://doi.org/10.1093/jdh/epad042 Published: 20 October 2023","PeriodicalId":45088,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Design History","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-10-20","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135568072","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"艺术学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Journal Article London Couture and the Making of a Fashion CenterPrêt-à-Porter, Paris and Women: A Cultural Study of French Readymade Fashion, 1945-68 Get access London Couture and the Making of a Fashion Center Michelle Jones The MIT Press, 2022. 320 pp., 61 b&w illus., $30, cloth, ISBN: 9780262046572.Prêt-à-Porter, Paris and Women: A Cultural Study of French Readymade Fashion, 1945-68 Alexis Romano, Bloomsbury, 2022. 264 pp., 16 col. and 38 b&w illus., cloth, $90, ISBN: 9781350126190. Chiara Faggella Chiara Faggella Independent scholar, Florence, Italy Email: chiara.faggella@gmail.com https://orcid.org/0000-0003-3501-3517 Search for other works by this author on: Oxford Academic Google Scholar Journal of Design History, epad043, https://doi.org/10.1093/jdh/epad043 Published: 12 October 2023
{"title":"London Couture and the Making of a Fashion CenterPrêt-à-Porter, Paris and Women: A Cultural Study of French Readymade Fashion, 1945-68","authors":"Chiara Faggella","doi":"10.1093/jdh/epad043","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1093/jdh/epad043","url":null,"abstract":"Journal Article London Couture and the Making of a Fashion CenterPrêt-à-Porter, Paris and Women: A Cultural Study of French Readymade Fashion, 1945-68 Get access London Couture and the Making of a Fashion Center Michelle Jones The MIT Press, 2022. 320 pp., 61 b&w illus., $30, cloth, ISBN: 9780262046572.Prêt-à-Porter, Paris and Women: A Cultural Study of French Readymade Fashion, 1945-68 Alexis Romano, Bloomsbury, 2022. 264 pp., 16 col. and 38 b&w illus., cloth, $90, ISBN: 9781350126190. Chiara Faggella Chiara Faggella Independent scholar, Florence, Italy Email: chiara.faggella@gmail.com https://orcid.org/0000-0003-3501-3517 Search for other works by this author on: Oxford Academic Google Scholar Journal of Design History, epad043, https://doi.org/10.1093/jdh/epad043 Published: 12 October 2023","PeriodicalId":45088,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Design History","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-10-12","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"136013418","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"艺术学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Journal Article Underground Mathematics: Craft Culture and Knowledge Production in Early Modern Europe Get access Underground Mathematics: Craft Culture and Knowledge Production in Early Modern Europe Thomas Morel, Cambridge University Press, 2023. 292 pp., 35 b&w illus., paper, £75.00. ISBN: 9781009267304. Jasmine Kilburn-Toppin Jasmine Kilburn-Toppin Lecturer in Early Modern History Cardiff University, Cardiff, United Kingdom E-mail: kilburn-toppinj@cardiff.ac.uk Search for other works by this author on: Oxford Academic Google Scholar Journal of Design History, epad044, https://doi.org/10.1093/jdh/epad044 Published: 06 October 2023
{"title":"Underground Mathematics: Craft Culture and Knowledge Production in Early Modern Europe","authors":"Jasmine Kilburn-Toppin","doi":"10.1093/jdh/epad044","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1093/jdh/epad044","url":null,"abstract":"Journal Article Underground Mathematics: Craft Culture and Knowledge Production in Early Modern Europe Get access Underground Mathematics: Craft Culture and Knowledge Production in Early Modern Europe Thomas Morel, Cambridge University Press, 2023. 292 pp., 35 b&w illus., paper, £75.00. ISBN: 9781009267304. Jasmine Kilburn-Toppin Jasmine Kilburn-Toppin Lecturer in Early Modern History Cardiff University, Cardiff, United Kingdom E-mail: kilburn-toppinj@cardiff.ac.uk Search for other works by this author on: Oxford Academic Google Scholar Journal of Design History, epad044, https://doi.org/10.1093/jdh/epad044 Published: 06 October 2023","PeriodicalId":45088,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Design History","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-10-06","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135352176","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"艺术学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
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