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Marie Neurath: Designing Bilston’s Housing Exhibition Marie Neurath:设计Bilston的住宅展览
IF 0.2 4区 艺术学 Q1 Arts and Humanities Pub Date : 2023-03-11 DOI: 10.1093/jdh/epac051
P. Pedersen
Marie Neurath was a pioneer in information design who co-developed the graphic approach Isotype and co-founded the Isotype Institute. This article elaborates on Marie’s creation of an educational exhibition in 1946 in Bilston, UK, advocating for a slum clearance project in a working-class neighborhood of Bilston. For over ten months, Marie carefully designed twelve charts that would help viewers understand the importance of the project for health and happiness. Despite being one of Isotype’s most visionary schemes for public education, Marie’s original contribution is unclear, in part because a new town clerk changed the housing exhibition at the last minute, bringing in “attractions” such as an ant farm and related cartoons. This article draws on correspondence, sketches, and notes from The Otto and Marie Neurath Isotype Collection at the University of Reading to show that Marie’s work should be recognized as a central contribution in the Bilston work.
Marie Neurath是信息设计的先驱,她与人共同开发了图形方法Isotype,并共同创立了Isotype研究所。本文阐述了玛丽1946年在英国比尔斯顿举办的一个教育展览,倡导在比尔斯顿的一个工人阶级社区开展贫民窟清理项目。在十多个月的时间里,玛丽精心设计了十二张图表,帮助观众理解该项目对健康和幸福的重要性。尽管玛丽是Isotype最有远见的公共教育计划之一,但她最初的贡献尚不清楚,部分原因是一位新来的镇职员在最后一刻改变了住房展览,带来了蚂蚁农场和相关漫画等“景点”。这篇文章引用了雷丁大学奥托和玛丽·诺伊拉斯同位素收藏的信件、草图和笔记,表明玛丽的作品应该被公认为对比尔斯顿作品的核心贡献。
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引用次数: 0
In Between Breaths: Memories, Stories, and Otherwise Design Histories 在呼吸之间:记忆,故事和其他设计历史
4区 艺术学 Q1 Arts and Humanities Pub Date : 2023-03-03 DOI: 10.1093/jdh/epac038
Sarah Cheang, Katie Irani, Livia Rezende, Shehnaz Suterwalla
Abstract Decolonial approaches foreground the necessity for design historians to rethink their methodologies and terms of debate to recognize the impact of colonial legacies. Only then is it possible to make changes toward social and cognitive justice. This piece explores new models for working collectively with history and memory across oral registers to include the colloquial and moments of pause, of taking breath. In mid-2020, four design historians teamed up to develop experimental, multimedia methods of working to explore new critical design histories. By using “otherwise” methods to look, listen, and read closely, this piece foregrounds the making of space for new interpretations of thinking and writing. The tensions between memories, stories, and histories are interpreted and challenged using concepts such as breath, voice, palimpsest, circle and rhythm. Exploring translation, opacity, embodiment, positionality, and nonlinearity emerged as crucial to questioning the terms under which design history can be transformed.
非殖民化的方法突出了设计历史学家重新思考他们的方法和辩论条款的必要性,以认识到殖民遗产的影响。只有这样,才有可能朝着社会和认知正义做出改变。这篇文章探索了一种新的模式,通过口头记录来共同研究历史和记忆,包括口语化和停顿的时刻,呼吸。2020年年中,四位设计历史学家合作开发了实验性的多媒体工作方法,以探索新的关键设计历史。通过使用“否则”的方法来仔细观察、倾听和阅读,这篇文章为思考和写作的新解释创造了空间。记忆、故事和历史之间的紧张关系用呼吸、声音、重写、循环和节奏等概念来解释和挑战。探索翻译、不透明、具体化、位置性和非线性成为质疑设计历史可以在哪些条件下被改变的关键。
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引用次数: 0
Fashion and Image as Anthropographic Elements in Nineteenth-century Colombia 时尚与形象:19世纪哥伦比亚的人类学元素
4区 艺术学 Q1 Arts and Humanities Pub Date : 2023-03-01 DOI: 10.1093/jdh/epac050
Jairo Bermúdez-Castillo, Astrid Barrios Barraza, Claudia Patricia Delgado Osorio, Maristela Verastegui
Abstract This article is the product of a research project about the role of image in the creation of the Colombian nation during the nineteenth century. Part of that image depended on the individuals it identified, their social status, their lifestyle, and their occupation. The image of fashion as a characteristic social identifier, as an icon, was a bearer of anthropographic symbols. In nineteenth-century Colombia, those symbols were connected to a republican identity characterized by its colonial heritage, determined by race, and by garments distinctive of specific social classes: formerly subjects and, later, citizens. Thus, the image that fashion conveyed as the “skin of the skin” of the republican ancestors, the elite, and the people constitutes a legacy that encompasses everything, from the manufacture of textiles and the indigenous ruana, to a kind of textile mestizaje with aspects of European provenance. Items from collections in museums, libraries, and archives, were compared to texts composed by travelers and illustrators, in order to unveil elements of national identity in what emerges as the landscape of fashion in Colombia during the nineteenth century.
这篇文章是一个关于十九世纪哥伦比亚民族创建过程中形象作用的研究项目的产物。这种形象部分取决于它所识别的个人,他们的社会地位、生活方式和职业。时尚形象作为一种特有的社会标识,作为一种标志,承载着人类学的符号。在19世纪的哥伦比亚,这些象征与共和国身份联系在一起,其特征是殖民遗产,由种族决定,并由特定社会阶层的独特服装决定:以前是臣民,后来是公民。因此,时尚作为共和祖先、精英和人民的“皮肤中的皮肤”所传达的形象构成了一种涵盖一切的遗产,从纺织品制造和土著ruana到一种具有欧洲血统的纺织品mestizaje。来自博物馆、图书馆和档案馆的藏品与旅行者和插画家撰写的文本进行了比较,以揭示19世纪哥伦比亚时尚景观中出现的民族认同元素。
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引用次数: 0
Picturing National History: Turkey’s Popular Nationalism on the Rise Through the 1950s New Print Culture 描绘民族历史:20世纪50年代新版画文化中土耳其民族主义的兴起
4区 艺术学 Q1 Arts and Humanities Pub Date : 2023-03-01 DOI: 10.1093/jdh/epac057
Emin Artun Ozguner
Abstract This article interrogates the role of print culture and visual communication design in the permeation of Turkish national consciousness into everyday practices. It seeks to understand the phenomenon of “banal nationalism,” argued by Michael Billig, in a broader context of cultural production advocated by Tim Edensor. It does this by looking into Turkey’s first liberalization period in the 1950s where a boosting print industry, a standard print language, and high literacy contributed to the daily reproduction of a collective historical past through representations. This period is analyzed through publications like Sunday comic strips, advertorial giveaways, and illustrated history journals that emulate popular American formats in the commodification of history. These are treated as material tools to present and disseminate an imaginary reconciliation of secular modernism with imperial history in a new print culture. This analysis reveals how representations in the foreground of everyday cultural artifacts are used to produce and reproduce difference that designates a distinct national consciousness detached from the realm of state. It also sheds light on the prevalence of identity negotiation and the commoditization of culture in the professionalization of visual communication disciplines in non-Western design paradigms.
摘要本文探讨了印刷文化和视觉传达设计在土耳其民族意识渗透到日常实践中的作用。它试图理解迈克尔·比利格(Michael Billig)在蒂姆·艾登索(Tim Edensor)倡导的更广泛的文化生产背景下提出的“平庸的民族主义”现象。它通过研究土耳其在20世纪50年代的第一个自由化时期来做到这一点,当时蓬勃发展的印刷业,标准的印刷语言和高识字率通过表现促进了集体历史的日常再现。这一时期是通过诸如周日连环画、软文赠品和插图历史杂志等出版物来分析的,这些出版物模仿了美国流行的历史商品化形式。它们被视为一种物质工具,在一种新的印刷文化中呈现和传播一种世俗现代主义与帝国历史的想象和解。这一分析揭示了日常文化制品前景中的表征是如何被用来产生和再现差异的,这种差异标志着一种脱离国家领域的独特民族意识。它还揭示了非西方设计范式中视觉传达学科专业化中身份协商和文化商品化的盛行。
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引用次数: 0
“Thrice Precious Tube!” Negotiating the Visibility and Efficiency of Early Hearing Aids “三次珍贵的导管!”协商早期助听器的可见性和效率
IF 0.2 4区 艺术学 Q1 Arts and Humanities Pub Date : 2023-02-26 DOI: 10.1093/jdh/epac052
M. Zdrodowska
In the nineteenth century, acoustic hearing aids (such as ear trumpets or conversation tubes) became ubiquitous attributes of deaf people from polite society. These prostheses were a visible sign of otherwise invisible deafness. Although some deaf people used hearing aids openly and proudly, and constantly attempted to convince others that using them was nothing to be ashamed of, others wanted to hide these stigmatizing devices. Therefore, they were equally (or even more) concerned with their visibility than with their performance when buying these devices. For this reason, manufacturers tried to design instruments to meet the needs of their customers. This article investigates two design strategies that were used by ear trumpet producers to maneuver between the troubling visibility of these instruments and their performance: the first is hypervisibility—designing hearing aids as luxurious objects of conspicuous consumption; the second is invisibility, which was achieved with miniaturization and camouflage. Both these aesthetic strategies are considered in the context of Victorian technophilia and regimes of the body. As hearing aids became more accessible to the middle class, design patterns spread beyond elite consumption.
在19世纪,声学助听器(如喇叭或谈话管)成为上流社会聋人的普遍特征。这些假体是原本看不见的耳聋的明显标志。尽管一些聋人公开而自豪地使用助听器,并不断试图说服其他人使用助听器没有什么可羞愧的,但其他人却想隐藏这些污名化的设备。因此,在购买这些设备时,他们同样(甚至更)关心自己的可见性,而不是性能。出于这个原因,制造商试图设计仪器来满足客户的需求。本文研究了耳塞生产商在这些仪器令人不安的可视性和性能之间的两种设计策略:第一种是超可视性——将助听器设计成炫耀性消费的奢侈品;二是隐身性,它是通过小型化和伪装实现的。这两种美学策略都是在维多利亚时代的技术狂和身体制度的背景下考虑的。随着助听器越来越容易被中产阶级使用,设计模式已经超越了精英消费。
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引用次数: 0
Special Issue of the Journal of Design History: Design History and Digital Material Culture 设计历史杂志特刊:设计历史与数字物质文化
IF 0.2 4区 艺术学 Q1 Arts and Humanities Pub Date : 2023-02-22 DOI: 10.1093/jdh/epac059
Anna K Talley
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引用次数: 0
Plastic MatterPlastic Legacies: Pollution, Persistence, and Politics 塑料遗产:污染、持久性和政治
4区 艺术学 Q1 Arts and Humanities Pub Date : 2023-01-28 DOI: 10.1093/jdh/epac054
Damla Tonuk
Any attempt to approach plastics is inevitably challenged by the materiality of the subject—the very presence of plastics. These books, although they approach plastics differently, both begin by acknowledging the presence, or perhaps rather “perseverance” of plastics—found sometimes years later and far from their place of origin. Plastics are everywhere and they do not go away. We might dispose of them, but they eventually wash back up. The implications of plastics’ perseverance are taken up differently in each book. Even though the authors might use similar case studies, they part ways as they frame their arguments. In the edited collection entitled Plastic Legacies, Trisia Farrelly, Sy Taffel, and Ian Shaw present a neat and organized documentation of the circulation of plastics and initiatives that have led to large-scale action or legislation. In Plastic Matter, Heather Davis presents an intriguing journey into the meanings and materialities of plastics, as embedded in our daily life practices and the way we think.
任何接近塑料的尝试都不可避免地受到主题的物质性的挑战——塑料的存在。尽管这两本书对塑料的看法不同,但它们都从承认塑料的存在开始,或者更确切地说,是承认塑料的“持久性”——有时是在多年后才被发现,而且离它们的原产地很远。塑料无处不在,它们不会消失。我们可能会处理掉它们,但它们最终会被冲回来。每本书都以不同的方式阐述了塑料坚持不懈的含义。尽管作者可能会使用类似的案例研究,但他们在构建论点时却各执一词。在这本名为《塑料遗产》的编辑集中,特里西娅·法雷利、塞·塔菲尔和伊恩·肖展示了一份整洁而有组织的塑料流通文件,以及导致大规模行动或立法的倡议。在《Plastic Matter》一书中,希瑟·戴维斯(Heather Davis)向我们展示了一段有趣的旅程,探讨了塑料的意义和材料,以及塑料在我们日常生活中的作用和我们的思维方式。
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引用次数: 0
Designing Modern Japan 设计现代日本
4区 艺术学 Q1 Arts and Humanities Pub Date : 2023-01-24 DOI: 10.1093/jdh/epac053
Michelle L Hauk
The design disciplines that Teasley addresses in her book—such as graphic and product design—took root in the wake of the Meiji-era (1868–1912), when social, political, and economic transformations upended local cottage industries and prompted the makers of luxury and craft goods to consider how to apply existing design and production practices to make new types of objects for new markets, both at home and overseas. The Arita vases displayed at the Philadelphia Centennial Exposition of 1876, for example, exemplified high technical skill while also promoting a particular image of “Japan” that responded to Western tastes. Artisans across various industries, from ceramics to textiles to lacquerware, began to shift their attention to Western markets and expand their product lines (to include such things as lacquered hairbrushes and glove boxes), developing new patterns, motifs, and color palettes and experimenting with new production techniques and technologies.
提斯利在书中提到的设计学科,如平面设计和产品设计,在明治时代(1868-1912)之后扎根,当时社会、政治和经济变革颠覆了当地的家庭手工业,促使奢侈品和手工艺品制造商考虑如何应用现有的设计和生产实践,为国内外的新市场制造新型物品。例如,在1876年费城百年博览会上展出的有田花瓶,体现了高超的技术,同时也宣传了一种回应西方品味的“日本”的特殊形象。从陶瓷到纺织品再到漆器,各行各业的工匠开始将注意力转移到西方市场,扩大产品线(包括漆发刷和手套箱等产品),开发新的图案、图案和调色板,并试验新的生产技术和技术。
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引用次数: 0
Balenciaga, licensee of Maison Vionnet 巴黎世家,Vionnet之家的授权商
IF 0.2 4区 艺术学 Q1 Arts and Humanities Pub Date : 2022-12-05 DOI: 10.1093/jdh/epac046
Ana Balda
Cristóbal Balenciaga’s initial period in Spain (1917–1936), when he was working to develop himself as a couturier and consolidate his business in the luxury sector, is less known than his Parisian period (1937–1968), due to the scarcity of available information. This article analyses the designer as a buyer of haute couture licenses during that initial period. His biographers claim that in the early years of his professional development Balenciaga would attend to the presentations of prestigious French Maisons where he acquired pieces that he later sold in his establishment in San Sebastián, and that he studied to improve his own technique. Among these Maisons is that of Madeleine Vionnet. However, the restrictive licensing policy applied by the French couturière, puts in doubt the idea that Balenciaga had once been authorized to acquire pieces from her collections. Based on research in the archives of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, the Bibliothèque Historique de la Ville de Paris and the Archives de Paris, and in the Spanish, French and North American press published between 1920 and 1930, this article provides new findings that confirm the existence of just such a commercial relationship. It reveals when it emerged, specifies which Vionnet pieces Balenciaga acquired and studies the influence of Vionnet’s technique and aesthetics on some of the Basque couturier’s creations prior to his establishment in Paris.
Cristóbal巴黎世家在西班牙的最初时期(1917-1936),当时他正在努力发展自己作为一名女装设计师,并巩固他在奢侈品领域的业务,由于可用信息的缺乏,不如他在巴黎时期(1937-1968)为人所知。这篇文章分析了设计师在最初阶段作为高级时装授权的购买者。他的传记作者声称,在他职业发展的早期,巴黎世家会参加著名法国品牌的展示,在那里他获得了一些作品,后来在他位于圣Sebastián的公司出售,他还学习提高自己的技术。玛德琳·维奥内的家就是其中之一。然而,法国时装设计公司实施的限制性许可政策,让人怀疑巴黎世家是否曾被授权购买她的系列作品。基于对mus des Arts dacriatifs、biblioth Historique de la Ville de Paris和archives de Paris档案的研究,以及在1920年至1930年间出版的西班牙、法国和北美媒体的研究,本文提供了新的发现,证实了这种商业关系的存在。它揭示了它的出现时间,详细说明了巴黎世家获得了哪些维奥内的作品,并研究了维奥内的技术和美学对这位巴斯克时装设计师在巴黎成立之前的一些作品的影响。
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引用次数: 0
Craftworkers in Nineteenth-Century Scotland: Making and Adapting in an Industrial Age 19世纪苏格兰的工匠:工业时代的制作与适应
IF 0.2 4区 艺术学 Q1 Arts and Humanities Pub Date : 2022-11-16 DOI: 10.1093/jdh/epac044
T. Fisher
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引用次数: 0
期刊
Journal of Design History
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