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An evening with Ackermann: Evening dress in The Repository of Arts, 1809–1813 与阿克曼的夜晚:《艺术宝库》中的晚礼服,1809-1813
IF 1.1 Q2 COMMUNICATION Pub Date : 2020-10-01 DOI: 10.1080/15405702.2020.1841901
J. Barker
ABSTRACT This study examines the presentation of evening dress within the first 50 issues of The Repository of Arts, Literature, Commerce, Manufactures, Fashions, and Politics, from January 1809 to February 1813. Within this early nineteenth-century British magazine, published in London by Rudolph Ackermann, several visuals and voices emerge as its primary fashion communicators. Through the written observations of two author-characters, as well as elegant hand-colored fashion plates and tactile fabric swatches of domestic manufacture, The Repository of Arts provided a dynamic array of sartorial instructions for its readers to consider. This study illuminates the publication’s explanation of the temporal boundaries of evening dress and related dress categories, its discussion of good taste and variety in fashion, and its commentary on visual impact, light reflectivity, and bodily exposure, providing new insights into the significance of evening dress at the start of the nineteenth century.
摘要本研究考察了1809年1月至1813年2月《艺术、文学、商业、制造、时尚和政治资料库》前50期中晚礼服的展示情况。在这本由鲁道夫·阿克曼在伦敦出版的19世纪初的英国杂志中,一些视觉和声音成为其主要的时尚传播者。通过对两位作者人物的书面观察,以及优雅的手绘时尚板和国内制造的触觉织物样本,《艺术宝库》为读者提供了一系列动态的服装指导。这项研究阐明了该出版物对晚礼服和相关服装类别的时间界限的解释,对时尚品味和多样性的讨论,以及对视觉冲击、反光和身体暴露的评论,为19世纪初晚礼服的意义提供了新的见解。
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引用次数: 0
Makeover media as fashion journalism: What Not To Wear, fashion, authority, and Gonzo subjectivity 作为时尚新闻的改头换面媒体:不该穿什么、时尚、权威和Gonzo的主观性
IF 1.1 Q2 COMMUNICATION Pub Date : 2020-10-01 DOI: 10.1080/15405702.2020.1839079
A. Oak, Julia Petrov
ABSTRACT The USA-based television program What Not To Wear (WNTW) was a staple of popular fashion media, informing audiences about acceptable modes of dress and appearance. We consider how aspects of this show and its accompanying book encompass features of traditional fashion reportage – particularly advice literature – and also approaches to fashion communication that overlap with the style and concerns of “New Journalism” (those modes of reporting – sometimes called “Gonzo” – that emphasize informality, emotional engagement, and an interest in “real” people and “real” lives). By examining the text, images, and talk deployed by the book and the TV show, we indicate how WNTW perceives, constructs, and conveys the fashioned subject in ways that link makeover media to broader contexts of cultural commentary.
摘要美国电视节目《不穿什么》(What Not To Wear,WNTW)是流行时尚媒体的主要节目,向观众介绍可接受的着装和外表模式。我们考虑了这场展览及其配套书籍的各个方面如何涵盖传统时尚报告文学的特征,特别是建议文学,以及与“新新闻”的风格和关注点重叠的时尚传播方法(这些报道模式——有时被称为“Gonzo”——强调非正式、情感参与和对“真实”的人和“真实”生活)。通过研究这本书和电视节目所使用的文本、图像和谈话,我们指出了WNTW是如何感知、构建和传达传统主题的,将改造媒体与更广泛的文化评论背景联系起来。
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引用次数: 1
“Your one and only source”: “peripheral” fashion editorship within the transnational cultural flow. St. Petersburg publication Modnyi magazin (1862–1883) “你唯一的来源”:跨国文化流中的“外围”时尚编辑。圣彼得堡出版物Modnyi magazin(1862–1883)
IF 1.1 Q2 COMMUNICATION Pub Date : 2020-10-01 DOI: 10.1080/15405702.2020.1839077
M. Alesina
ABSTRACT This article discusses how a fashion editor in a culturally “peripheral” country engages with the global cultural flow as a local gate-keeper. Classifying Paris as a metropolis and St. Petersburg as (semi-)periphery, it looks at one of the earliest Russian fashion publications, Modnyi magazin (1862–83), edited by Sofia (Rekhnevskaia-)Mei. The article examines Mei’s fashion editorials referring to recent insights into fashion journalism. It particularly focuses on the dialectics between local and global fashion-related discourses within them. In this regard, it is suggested that reflections of the Swedish social anthropologist Ulf Hannerz on the metropolis-province interplay, media, and local cultural actors provide an insightful framework for identifying the potentialities of peripheral fashion journalism and the role of a local editor in realizing them – as much nowadays as in the nineteenth century.
本文讨论了文化“边缘”国家的时尚编辑如何作为当地的看门人参与全球文化流动。它将巴黎划分为大都市,将圣彼得堡划分为(半)外围,着眼于俄罗斯最早的时尚出版物之一,由索菲亚(Rekhnevskaia-)梅编辑的《Modnyi》杂志(1862-83)。这篇文章考察了梅的时尚社论,提到了最近对时尚新闻的见解。它特别关注当地和全球时尚相关话语之间的辩证法。在这方面,有人建议,瑞典社会人类学家乌尔夫·汉纳茨(Ulf Hannerz)对大都市与省之间的相互作用、媒体和地方文化行动者的反思,为识别周边时尚新闻的潜力和地方编辑在实现这些潜力方面的作用提供了一个富有洞察力的框架——无论是在今天还是在19世纪。
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引用次数: 0
Fashion as communication revisited 重新审视时尚作为交流的方式
IF 1.1 Q2 COMMUNICATION Pub Date : 2020-10-01 DOI: 10.1080/15405702.2020.1844888
M. Barnard
ABSTRACT The essay introduces the sender/receiver model of communication and fashion communication by reviewing cultural studies and recent fashion journalism references to it. The essay argues that there are three major problems with this model. It then introduces and critiques various arguments around the cyborg, a human/machine “hybrid” as some theorists present it and argues that there are limitations and weaknesses in the conception of the prosthesis as found in the notion of the cyborg. The essay then analyses semiological models of communication and uses Derrida’s conception of the constitutive prosthesis to critique both traditional conceptions of the prosthesis and the model of communication as it is found in semiological models. Finally, the essay identifies some significant consequences of the constitutive prosthesis for fashion and the explanation of fashion as communication.
本文通过回顾文化研究和近期时尚新闻对传播者/接受者传播模式的引用,介绍了传播者/接受者传播模式和时尚传播模式。本文认为,这种模式存在三个主要问题。然后,它介绍并批评了围绕半机械人的各种争论,这是一些理论家提出的人/机器“混合体”,并认为在半机械人的概念中发现了假体概念的局限性和弱点。然后,本文分析了通信的符号学模型,并使用德里达的建构性假体概念来批判传统的假体概念和通信模型,因为它在符号学模型中发现。最后,本文确定了时尚的本构假体和时尚作为交流的解释的一些重要后果。
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引用次数: 1
The mother of dragons in Dior: fashion, star image and self-presentation on Instagram 迪奥的龙之母:时尚、明星形象和Instagram上的自我展示
IF 1.1 Q2 COMMUNICATION Pub Date : 2020-10-01 DOI: 10.1080/15405702.2020.1839078
Helle Kannik Haastrup
ABSTRACT This article analyzes how a celebrity presents her star image on Instagram using fashion through a case study of British film and television star Emilia Clarke’s Instagram profile. Clarke is primarily known for playing the warrior queen Daenerys Targaryen in Game of Thrones (HBO, 2011–19). Previous studies of fashion and social media have focused, for example, on fashion bloggers or influencers as fashion entrepreneurs. In contrast, this study analyzes how fashion can be an important tool for a film and television star on Instagram to communicate. The article’s theoretical framework combines existing studies on celebrity and fashion in legacy media with star studies and theories of social media and celebrity culture. This case study aims to contribute to our understanding of agency when celebrities communicate through fashion using social media.
本文以英国影视明星艾米莉亚·克拉克的Instagram个人资料为例,分析了明星如何利用时尚在Instagram上展现自己的明星形象。克拉克最出名的角色是在《权力的游戏》(HBO, 2011-19)中饰演战士女王丹妮莉丝·坦格利安。例如,之前对时尚和社交媒体的研究主要集中在时尚博主或时尚企业家的影响者身上。相比之下,本研究分析了时尚如何成为影视明星在Instagram上交流的重要工具。本文的理论框架将现有的关于传统媒体中名人和时尚的研究与明星研究以及社交媒体和名人文化的理论相结合。本案例研究旨在帮助我们理解名人通过社交媒体进行时尚交流时的代理行为。
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引用次数: 2
“Palpably Ugly” or “beauty of their form”?: Corsets in Toronto periodicals, 1871-1914 “丑陋可亲”还是“形式之美”?:1871-1914年多伦多期刊上的Corsets
IF 1.1 Q2 COMMUNICATION Pub Date : 2020-10-01 DOI: 10.1080/15405702.2020.1839075
Alanna McKnight
ABSTRACT At the turn of the twentieth century in Toronto, articles in local newspapers and magazines exposed women to disparate views on corsets. On one side of the argument were dress reformers who advised women to do away with corsetry for the sake of their health and wellbeing. On the other side, were fashion journalists who advised them about current styles, which often oscillated from year-to-year. Despite this disparity, corsets were an ever-present foundation of nineteenth century fashion, to the extent that they were a frequent, sexy addition to crime reporting. The exaggerated stories in the media subjected women to a tug-of-war over their body autonomy. This article is based on content analyses of periodicals and exposes how corsets were presented in Toronto periodicals such as The Toronto Star, The Globe, and The Canadian Dried Goods Review, among others.
摘要二十世纪之交的多伦多,当地报纸和杂志上的文章让女性对紧身胸衣产生了不同的看法。争论的一方是服装改革者,他们建议女性为了健康和幸福而放弃紧身胸衣。另一方面,时尚记者为他们提供了关于当前风格的建议,这些风格往往每年都在波动。尽管存在这种差异,紧身胸衣是19世纪时尚的永恒基础,在某种程度上,它们是犯罪报告中经常出现的性感补充。媒体上夸张的报道使女性在身体自主性问题上陷入了一场拉锯战。本文基于对期刊内容的分析,揭示了紧身胸衣是如何在《多伦多星报》、《环球报》和《加拿大干货评论》等多伦多期刊上呈现的。
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引用次数: 0
The state of the commons: commoners, populists, and communards 公地的状态:平民、民粹主义者和社区
IF 1.1 Q2 COMMUNICATION Pub Date : 2020-07-02 DOI: 10.1080/15405702.2020.1781859
N. Dyer-Witheford
ABSTRACT “Commons” has been a concept crucial to movements opposing twenty-first century capitalism, and nowhere more so than in the field of communication, where it has underpinned critique of the commodification of digital networks. Yet the ideas about commons articulated at the turn of the millennium by anti-capitalist movements today show signs of exhaustion and disintegration. One reason is their failure to adequately reckon with the power of the modern state and its role as an organizational hub of contemporary capitalism. Starting with a recent exchange on this topic between peer-to-peer computing theorists Michel Bauwens and Jose Ramos and political economist Graham Murdock, this paper looks back at the alter-globalist movement in which contemporary “commonism” incubated and at why such analysis often circumvented the issue of the state. The shortfall in that position is demonstrated by an examination of how deeply state power was involved in the collapse of alter-globalism, and in the rise of the platform capitalism that appropriated many of its experiments in digital commoning. The role the digital pseudo-commons created by Google, Facebook, Twitter, and other platform capitalists played in both the immediate successes and longer-term failure of occupy movements, and in the subsequent rise of neofascism and right wing populism, is reviewed. The paper then discusses how, in the aftermath of these setbacks, contending models of left populism and communizing riots mutate or repudiate earlier notions of commons. It concludes by reviewing the possibilities, positive and negative, for the relation of commonists, populists, and communards.
在反对21世纪资本主义的运动中,“公地”一直是一个至关重要的概念,在传播领域更是如此,它支撑着对数字网络商品化的批评。然而,反资本主义运动在千禧年之交所阐述的关于公地的理念,如今却显示出枯竭和瓦解的迹象。原因之一是他们未能充分认识到现代国家的力量及其作为当代资本主义组织中心的作用。本文从最近点对点计算理论家米歇尔·鲍文斯和何塞·拉莫斯与政治经济学家格雷厄姆·默多克就这一主题的交流开始,回顾了当代“公共主义”孕育的另类全球主义运动,以及为什么这种分析经常回避国家问题。通过考察国家权力与另类全球主义的崩溃以及平台资本主义的兴起有多深的关系,可以看出这一立场的不足,平台资本主义在数字公共领域的许多实验都被挪用了。本文回顾了b谷歌、Facebook、Twitter和其他平台资本家创造的数字伪公地在占领运动的直接成功和长期失败,以及随后新法西斯主义和右翼民粹主义的兴起中所起的作用。然后,本文讨论了在这些挫折之后,左翼民粹主义和社区骚乱的竞争模式如何变异或否定了早期的公地概念。文章最后回顾了共产主义者、民粹主义者和社区主义者之间关系的积极和消极的可能性。
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引用次数: 1
Re-thinking the communication commons 重新思考通信公域
IF 1.1 Q2 COMMUNICATION Pub Date : 2020-07-02 DOI: 10.1080/15405702.2020.1787094
Benjamin J. Birkinbine, D. Kidd
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引用次数: 1
Standing rock and the Indigenous commons 立岩和土著公地
IF 1.1 Q2 COMMUNICATION Pub Date : 2020-07-02 DOI: 10.1080/15405702.2020.1781862
D. Kidd
ABSTRACT A new cycle of communications commons has become part of the contemporary repertoire of Indigenous first nations in North America. The mobilization of the Standing Rock Sioux is perhaps the best-known example of a continent-wide cycle of resistance in which Indigenous communities have employed a combination of collectively governed land-based encampments and sophisticated trans-media assemblages to challenge the further enclosure of their territories by the state and fossil fuel industries and instead represent their political and media sovereignty, and prefigure a more reciprocal relationship with other humans and with nature. Although their practices of commoning resemble other radical commons projects, the contemporary Indigenous commons begs for a reassessment of the critical framework of the commons. In this article, I discuss the critical commons literature and compare it with the practices of commoning in the anti-extractivist encampments of Standing Rock.
一个新的交流共享周期已经成为北美原住民第一民族当代曲目的一部分。立岩苏人的动员可能是一个最著名的例子,在整个大陆范围内的抵抗周期中,土著社区采用集体管理的陆上营地和复杂的跨媒体组合的组合来挑战国家和化石燃料工业对其领土的进一步封锁,而不是代表他们的政治和媒体主权,预示着与他人以及与自然的互惠关系。虽然他们的公共实践类似于其他激进的公共项目,但当代土著公地要求对公地的关键框架进行重新评估。在这篇文章中,我讨论了批判性的公地文献,并将其与立岩的反开采主义阵营中的公地实践进行了比较。
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引用次数: 8
Beyond state vanguardism and market fundamentalism: a case for telecommunications commons in Ethiopia 超越国家先锋主义和市场原教旨主义:埃塞俄比亚电信公地案例
IF 1.1 Q2 COMMUNICATION Pub Date : 2020-07-02 DOI: 10.1080/15405702.2020.1781861
Téwodros W. Workneh
ABSTRACT Despite external and domestic pressures seeking liberalization and privatization, Ethiopia, until recently, maintained a highly centralized, vertically integrated, single service provider model of state monopoly of telecommunications. However, in 2019, the Ethiopian House of Representatives passed the Communications Service Proclamation, a historic bill that deregulated the Ethiopian telecommunications sector, paving the way for domestic and foreign companies to invest in one of the last remaining state-controlled telecommunications markets in the world. By probing the limitations of Ethiopia’s monopolistic arrangement in telecommunications akin to state vanguardism as well as critically examining the potential pitfalls of the impending liberalization of the sector and privatization of the sole telecommunication operator Ethio-Telecom, this article makes the case for instituting a commons-based approach that is pro-poor, pro-development, and contextually streamlined. It concludes by proposing three avenues of telecommunication commons, namely: infrastructure commons; last mile commons; and digital commons.
尽管面临着寻求自由化和私有化的国内外压力,埃塞俄比亚直到最近仍保持着高度集中、垂直整合、单一服务提供商的国家垄断电信模式。然而,在2019年,埃塞俄比亚众议院通过了《通信服务公告》,这是一项历史性的法案,解除了对埃塞俄比亚电信行业的管制,为国内外公司投资世界上仅存的几个国家控制的电信市场之一铺平了道路。本文探讨埃塞俄比亚在电信领域类似国家先锋主义的垄断安排的局限性,并批判性地审视即将到来的行业自由化和唯一电信运营商埃塞俄比亚电信私有化的潜在陷阱,提出建立一种以公共为基础的方法,这种方法有利于穷人,有利于发展,并根据具体情况进行精简。最后,提出了电信公共的三种途径,即:基础设施公共;最后一英里公地;以及数字公共资源。
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引用次数: 1
期刊
Popular Communication
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