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The affective economy and fast fashion: Materiality, embodied learning and developing a sensibility for sustainable clothing 情感经济与快时尚:物质性,体现学习和发展可持续服装的情感
IF 0.9 3区 社会学 Q3 ANTHROPOLOGY Pub Date : 2022-03-28 DOI: 10.1177/13591835221088524
Joanie Willett, C. Saunders, F. Hackney, Katie Hill
Many commentators recognise the need to make clothing more sustainable due to its deleterious environmental and social ramifications. However, it is challenging to change the consumer behaviour that drives fast fashion markets because people have complex relationships with clothing. In this study, we illustrate how the relationships that people have with clothing can be shaped by workshops that immerse them in making, mending, and modifying garments. Such experiential learning can encourage adoption of more sustainable clothing choices, such as reducing consumption of new garments and prolonging the life of already owned items of clothing. We present findings on a strand of work from the Arts and Humanities Research Council funded S4S: Designing a Sensibility for Sustainable Clothing project, which explored the affective economy around clothing, and considered how emotive affects around garments operate as a conduit to self-sustain particular practices. Our significant contribution brings political analysis firmly into the debate about sustainable clothing by merging literatures on behaviour change and affect, through exploration of a novel longitudinal (9-months) qualitative data set. At the start of the project, participants generally thought of clothes as being low-cost (and therefore disposable) items. The workshops, in contrast, presented garments and the materials from which they are made as precious, complex and fluid – in a process of continual possibility. For pro-environmental behavioural change, we find that immersion in the materiality of clothing mobilised affective processes, enabling potentially transformative affective encounters. Further, we found that group learning environments need to do more than simply teach approved normative values and behaviours. Pro-environmental behaviour change initiatives need to provide people with the space to create and situate their own knowledges, enabling affect to be mobilised, activated and supported by appropriate cultural milieu.
许多评论家认识到,由于其有害的环境和社会影响,有必要使服装更具可持续性。然而,改变推动快时尚市场的消费者行为是一项挑战,因为人们与服装有着复杂的关系。在这项研究中,我们展示了人们与服装的关系是如何通过让他们沉浸在制作、修补和修改服装中的工作坊来塑造的。这种体验式学习可以鼓励人们选择更可持续的服装,例如减少新服装的消费,延长已有服装的寿命。我们介绍了艺术与人文研究委员会资助的S4S:为可持续服装设计情感项目的一系列研究结果,该项目探索了服装周围的情感经济,并考虑了服装周围情感影响如何作为自我维持特定实践的渠道。我们的重大贡献是,通过探索一个新的纵向(9个月)定性数据集,将有关行为变化和影响的文献合并,将政治分析牢牢地带入了关于可持续服装的辩论中。在项目开始时,参与者通常认为衣服是低成本的(因此是一次性的)物品。相比之下,这些研讨会展示了服装及其制作材料的珍贵性、复杂性和流动性,这是一个持续的可能性过程。对于有利于环境的行为改变,我们发现,沉浸在服装的物质性中会调动情感过程,从而实现潜在的变革性情感体验。此外,我们发现,小组学习环境需要做的不仅仅是简单地教授认可的规范价值观和行为。支持环境的行为改变倡议需要为人们提供创造和定位自己知识的空间,使情感能够被适当的文化环境调动、激活和支持。
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引用次数: 3
Making a home in the world: Clothes as mnemonic devices through which refugees experience home in flight and resettlement 在世界上建立一个家:衣服作为记忆装置,难民通过它在逃亡和重新安置中体验家
IF 0.9 3区 社会学 Q3 ANTHROPOLOGY Pub Date : 2022-03-24 DOI: 10.1177/13591835221088512
Charlotte D. Schneider
How do refugees experience home not just in the country of settlement but also along their journeys of flight? Departing from theories that see home as something which is left behind in displacement, this paper explores how clothes act as important mnemonic devices, storing and archiving memories from different times and places, whilst connecting people to new places en route. Through the in-depth analysis of two refugees’ stories, this paper highlights that home is not a onetime accomplishment but a lived experience that people are continuously involved in, especially in times of upheaval and transformation as they search for a safer place to be in the world. Clothes, as one of the few materials that refugees carry, become central to this lived experience not only as semiotic devices, carrying different narratives of home, but also as sensual materials through which different sensations of home are carried, transformed, and negotiated.
难民不仅在定居国,而且在他们的逃亡之旅中是如何体验家的?从将家视为流离失所后留下的东西的理论出发,本文探讨了衣服如何作为重要的记忆设备,存储和归档来自不同时间和地点的记忆,同时将人们与新的地方联系起来。通过对两个难民故事的深入分析,本文强调了家不是一次性的成就,而是人们不断参与的生活体验,特别是在动荡和变革的时代,人们在世界上寻找一个更安全的地方。衣服,作为难民携带的少数材料之一,成为这种生活体验的核心,不仅作为符号化的装置,承载着不同的家的叙述,而且作为感性的材料,通过它,不同的家的感觉被携带、转化和协商。
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引用次数: 0
Creels and catenary wires: Creating community through winter lights displays 爬线和接触网:通过冬季灯光展示创建社区
IF 0.9 3区 社会学 Q3 ANTHROPOLOGY Pub Date : 2022-03-22 DOI: 10.1177/13591835221089547
J. Bennett
Lighting up darkness is a material practice shared across many cultures. Lighting up winter darkness is a particular concern in urban areas in order to make urban spaces feel safer and more welcoming. Temporary lights, often characterised as ‘Christmas’ or ‘Winter’ lights, are installed over the darkest period of the year (December in the northern hemisphere) in town and city centres to attract shoppers and tourists. This paper examines the lights displays installed over the Christmas/ New Year period in two British towns. In each case the lights are installed by volunteers, who also arrange a ‘switch on’ community celebration. The research argues that the architecture of the lights signifies and reinforces the identities of the communities involved. In particular, the paper examines: the importance of infrastructure for the ongoing creation of community; the creative potential of these temporary structures for community identity; and the essential materiality of community.
点亮黑暗是许多文化中共同的物质实践。点亮冬季的黑暗是城市地区特别关注的问题,目的是让城市空间感觉更安全、更受欢迎。临时灯,通常被称为“圣诞节”或“冬季”灯,在一年中最黑暗的时期(北半球的12月)安装在城镇中心,以吸引购物者和游客。本文考察了英国两个城镇在圣诞节/新年期间安装的灯光显示器。在每种情况下,这些灯都是由志愿者安装的,他们还安排了一次“开启”社区庆祝活动。该研究认为,灯光的建筑象征并强化了相关社区的身份。该文件特别审查了:基础设施对持续创建社区的重要性;这些临时结构对社区认同的创造性潜力;以及社区的本质实质性。
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引用次数: 0
Under one roof: Material changes and familial estrangement in Puno, Peru 同一个屋檐下:秘鲁普诺的物质变化和家庭隔阂
IF 0.9 3区 社会学 Q3 ANTHROPOLOGY Pub Date : 2022-03-21 DOI: 10.1177/13591835221088515
S. Narayanan
Traditional, Indigenous houses in Puno, Peru, were built using adobe bricks, stone, and wood. Today, young Indigenous couples are building houses that utilize modern materials such as concrete, brick, and steel. In this paper, I analyze the effects that changing materialities of house construction practices have on the durability and breadth of kin-relationships in Puno. I argue that these changes are possible due to the kind of personhood that houses occupy within kin networks in the Puno and the Andes. Furthermore, I show how access to new materials allows younger families to build houses more quickly than their parents did, shortening the time to develop stronger kin relationships that were once afforded by building with traditional materials. These new materials affect the house's ability to make and maintain kinship in the future where the quality of kin relationships is directly influenced by the material qualia of the house.
秘鲁普诺的传统土著房屋是用土坯砖、石头和木材建造的。如今,年轻的土著夫妇正在建造使用混凝土、砖和钢等现代材料的房屋。在本文中,我分析了在普诺,不断变化的房屋建筑材料对亲属关系的持久性和广度的影响。我认为,这些变化之所以可能,是因为在普诺和安第斯山脉的亲属网络中,房屋所占据的人格。此外,我还展示了获得新材料如何让年轻家庭比父母更快地建造房屋,缩短了发展更牢固的亲属关系的时间,而这种关系曾经是用传统材料建造的。这些新材料影响了房子在未来建立和维持亲属关系的能力,而亲属关系的质量直接受到房子材料质量的影响。
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引用次数: 1
Making masks: The women behind Ghana's nose covering mandate during the COVID-19 outbreak 制作口罩:新冠肺炎爆发期间,加纳口罩规定背后的女性
IF 0.9 3区 社会学 Q3 ANTHROPOLOGY Pub Date : 2022-03-18 DOI: 10.1177/13591835221086870
Abena Dove Osseo-Asare
In 2020, Ghanaians adopted face masks, or “nose masks,” in public places to combat the spread of a novel coronavirus, SARS-CoV-2. Seamstresses and tailors quickly pivoted to manufacture nose masks by April, given the longstanding cottage sewing industry. While the country saw an influx of disposable face masks by the end of the year, cloth mask makers made a significant impact on public health at the start of the pandemic. This article considers how people were able to quickly popularize nose masks in 2020, noting the key role women seamstresses played alongside public leaders, the Ghana Standards Authority, and the police who used punitive punishments and coercive tactics to encourage sustained use as the pandemic continued. It marks one of the first studies on the history and cultural use of nose masks in an African country, comparing their use and adoption to other national mask responses, including those in the United States, Japan, and the Czech Republic.
2020年,加纳人在公共场所使用口罩或“鼻口罩”,以遏制新型冠状病毒SARS-CoV-2的传播。考虑到长期存在的家庭作坊式缝纫行业,到4月,裁缝和裁缝很快转向生产鼻罩。尽管到今年年底,该国一次性口罩大量涌入,但布口罩制造商在疫情开始时对公众健康产生了重大影响。这篇文章考虑了人们如何在2020年迅速普及鼻罩,指出了女裁缝与公共领导人、加纳标准管理局和警察一起发挥的关键作用,她们在疫情持续期间使用惩罚性惩罚和胁迫策略鼓励持续使用鼻罩。这是第一批关于非洲国家鼻罩历史和文化使用的研究之一,将鼻罩的使用和采用与其他国家的口罩反应进行了比较,包括美国、日本和捷克共和国的口罩反应。
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引用次数: 1
In memory of future earthquakes: Controversial new form and function of a commemorative statue in 1920s Tokyo 纪念未来的地震:20世纪20年代东京一座有争议的纪念雕像的新形式和功能
IF 0.9 3区 社会学 Q3 ANTHROPOLOGY Pub Date : 2022-03-18 DOI: 10.1177/13591835221086874
J. Borland
Earthquake memorials dot the Japanese archipelago, marking its long history of destructive tremors. Today, many of these memorials are designed to serve the dual purpose of commemorating victims, and educating future generations. Almost a hundred years ago, however, this idea that a commemorative statue could also serve as a pedagogical tool proved to be novel and controversial. This article focuses on a case study of a memorial dubbed the Statue of Sadness. First unveiled to the public in 1929, the life-like figures of twelve children provoked an outcry. By exploring the conflicting hopes and expectations from the perspective of different stakeholders, I highlight the complicated issues surrounding earthquakes, commemoration, and children. I argue that the new form and function of the statue reflected the emerging desire of Japanese educators and government officials to educate future generations about the risk of earthquakes by reminding them about the tragic deaths of children, not to comfort bereaved families as many hoped. These issues are relevant today for communities endeavouring to construct memorials in order to save lives in the future.
地震纪念馆遍布日本列岛,标志着其破坏性地震的悠久历史。如今,这些纪念馆中的许多都是为了纪念受害者和教育后代的双重目的而设计的。然而,大约一百年前,纪念雕像也可以作为教学工具的想法被证明是新颖和有争议的。本文以一座名为“悲伤女神像”的纪念馆为例进行研究。1929年首次向公众公布的12个孩子的栩栩如生的形象引起了强烈抗议。通过从不同利益相关者的角度探讨相互冲突的希望和期望,我强调了围绕地震、纪念活动和儿童的复杂问题。我认为,雕像的新形式和功能反映了日本教育工作者和政府官员的新愿望,即通过提醒后代儿童的悲惨死亡来教育他们地震的风险,而不是像许多人希望的那样安慰失去亲人的家庭。今天,这些问题与致力于建造纪念馆以在未来拯救生命的社区有关。
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引用次数: 1
Money, memory objects and material practices in the everyday conduct of inter-ethnic marriages in Indonesia 印度尼西亚种族间婚姻日常行为中的金钱、记忆对象和物质习俗
IF 0.9 3区 社会学 Q3 ANTHROPOLOGY Pub Date : 2022-03-18 DOI: 10.1177/13591835221086862
Jony Eko Yulianto, Darrin Hodgetts, Pita King, James H. Liu
In the context of historical and ongoing tensions between different ethnic groups, inter-ethnic marriages are increasingly prevalent in Indonesia today. This article explores the social materiality of memory objects (money and related household items) in the negotiation of shared lifeworlds within two inter-ethnic marriages between Javanese and Chinese Indonesians. The research is based on detailed fieldwork conducted face-to-face in East Java over a 10 week period, and supported with further online interactions with participating couples. We demonstrate how a focus on money and related material practices can offer new understandings of how couples respond agentively to inter-cultural tensions in their marriages and strive towards harmony. In doing so we demonstrate how values of cooperation and prudence are articulated through things and related practices, and in the process are harnessed to support couples efforts to build mutually supportive lives together. In the process we document how objects, including money, an onion peeling machine and food emerge in these relationships as both practical things and objects of care, cooperation and affection. This research demonstrates that whilst still of crucial importance, a focus on inter-cultural tensions and the conflicts these can cause can be complimented with a focus on couple's agentive efforts to manage and contain such tensions as they build culturally hybrid lives together.
在不同种族群体之间历史上和持续的紧张关系的背景下,种族间婚姻在今天的印度尼西亚越来越普遍。本文探讨了记忆对象(金钱和相关的家庭物品)在爪哇人和华裔印尼人两次种族间婚姻中共同生活世界谈判中的社会物质性。这项研究基于在东爪哇面对面进行的为期10周的详细实地调查,并与参与的夫妇进行了进一步的在线互动。我们展示了对金钱和相关物质实践的关注如何为夫妻如何在婚姻中积极应对跨文化紧张关系并努力实现和谐提供新的理解。在这样做的过程中,我们展示了合作和谨慎的价值观是如何通过事情和相关实践来表达的,并在这个过程中被用来支持夫妻共同建立相互支持的生活。在这个过程中,我们记录了包括金钱、洋葱去皮机和食物在内的物品是如何在这些关系中成为实际的东西以及关心、合作和关爱的对象的。这项研究表明,尽管仍然至关重要,但关注文化间的紧张关系及其可能引发的冲突,可以与关注夫妇在共同建立文化混合生活时为管理和遏制这种紧张关系所做的代理努力相补充。
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引用次数: 3
Art and anthropology: Twenty-five years of The Traffic in Culture 艺术与人类学:25年的文化交通
IF 0.9 3区 社会学 Q3 ANTHROPOLOGY Pub Date : 2022-02-17 DOI: 10.1177/13591835221074151
Karin Zitzewitz, M. Ciotti
Special issue introduction.
特刊介绍。
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引用次数: 0
Contemporary archaeology in conflict zones: The materiality of violence and the transformation of the urban space in Temuco, Chile during the social outburst 冲突地区的当代考古学:暴力的物质性与社会爆发期间智利特穆科城市空间的转变
IF 0.9 3区 社会学 Q3 ANTHROPOLOGY Pub Date : 2022-02-04 DOI: 10.1177/13591835221074167
Henrik B. Lindskoug, Wladimir Martínez
We have, during the Latin American spring, studied the material traces of state oppression and social movements in Temuco, Chile, and the transformation of the urban landscape with archaeological surveys. Our results demonstrate alterations in the urban landscape related to both police presence and protesters. Large amounts of teargas-projectiles and rubber bullets indicate strong police presence and repression of different social movements. We have also identified protection and resistance modes in the form of shields, paint bombs, and protective masks, often associated with graffiti's, barricades, and other alterations of the public space. Material vestiges combined with interviews have shown how state institutions have tried to cover up the traces of violence. We argue that archaeology can play a central role in this process and in recording the materiality of these events with the aim to hand over the information to human right associations to prevent state oppression.
在拉丁美洲之春,我们研究了智利特穆科国家压迫和社会运动的物质痕迹,以及通过考古调查对城市景观的转变。我们的研究结果表明,城市景观的变化与警察的存在和抗议者有关。大量的催泪瓦斯弹和橡皮子弹表明了强大的警察存在和对不同社会运动的镇压。我们还确定了盾牌、油漆炸弹和防护面具等形式的保护和抵抗模式,这些模式通常与涂鸦、路障和其他公共空间改造有关。物质痕迹与采访相结合,显示了国家机构如何试图掩盖暴力的痕迹。我们认为,考古学可以在这一过程中发挥核心作用,并记录这些事件的实质性,目的是将信息移交给人权协会,以防止国家压迫。
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引用次数: 3
Reading clay: The temporal and transformative potential of clay in contemporary scientific practice 阅读粘土:粘土在当代科学实践中的时间和变革潜力
IF 0.9 3区 社会学 Q3 ANTHROPOLOGY Pub Date : 2022-01-27 DOI: 10.1177/13591835221074159
L. Bryant, K. Jamie, G. Sharples
Clay has a long history in the global south and has been extensively studied by ‘Western’ social scientists particularly anthropologists and archeologists in relation to histories of earlier civilisations and cultural practices. Clay in relation to contemporary ‘science’ has received less attention in social science despite the emergence of the sub-discipline of ‘clay science’ and its increasing focus on clay to transform wide ranging aspects of social life. In this paper we work towards an exploration of clay in science. We begin with the question of ‘what is clay?’ from the perspective of a multidisciplinary group of scientists, whilst being alert to culturally located and past knowledges of clay that shape current scientific knowledges and practices. Drawing on interviews with six clay scientists we explore the ontological and epistemological process for scientists in ‘reading’ clay to reveal how clay is ‘classified’, ‘worked upon’ and ‘partnered’. Our findings suggest that clay comes into being for scientists by being read as an informational and temporal medium and agentic matter with transformative promise to remedy specific threats to human and environmental health.
粘土在全球南部有着悠久的历史,“西方”社会科学家,特别是人类学家和考古学家,就早期文明和文化实践的历史进行了广泛的研究。粘土与当代“科学”的关系在社会科学中受到的关注较少,尽管“粘土科学”的子学科出现了,并且越来越关注粘土来改变社会生活的各个方面。在这篇论文中,我们致力于在科学上探索粘土。我们从“粘土是什么?”这个问题开始从多学科科学家小组的角度来看,同时对形成当前科学知识和实践的粘土的文化定位和过去的知识保持警惕。通过对六位粘土科学家的采访,我们探索了科学家“阅读”粘土的本体论和认识论过程,以揭示粘土是如何“分类”、“处理”和“合作”的。我们的发现表明,粘土对科学家来说是通过被解读为一种信息和时间媒介以及具有变革性的物质来产生的,它有望弥补对人类和环境健康的特定威胁。
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引用次数: 0
期刊
Journal of Material Culture
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