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In defense of materiality: Attending to the sensori-social life of things 捍卫物质性:关注事物的感官社会生活
IF 0.9 3区 社会学 Q3 ANTHROPOLOGY Pub Date : 2022-05-09 DOI: 10.1177/13591835221088501
D. Howes
This article presents a defense of the concept of materiality in the face of Tim Ingold’s critique of the concept as part of his “efforts to restore anthropology to life” in Being Alive and elsewhere. While acknowledging the forcefulness of Ingold’s stress on the “liveliness” of materials, and doctrine of perception “as action” (not representation), it critiques the way he neuters the perceiving subject, abstracts the senses, disregards the sensuous pleasures of making, and elides the sensori-social life of things. Three case studies are presented by way of illustration: the sensorial archaeology of perception, the “exuberant materiality” of the Byzantine bas-relief metal icon, and the tactility of “ladies’ craftwork” in the eighteenth and nineteenth century. In place of Ingold’s ideal-typical figures – the rootless wayfarer, the skilled craftsman – this article brings out the situatedness of the human subject within a particular tradition, or sensory and social regime, and how this mediates their construction and perception of things and other persons.
面对蒂姆·英格尔德在《活着》和《其他地方》中对物质性概念的批判,这篇文章为物质性概念辩护,这是他“努力将人类学恢复到生活中”的一部分。在承认英格尔强调材料的“生动性”和感知“作为行动”(而非表现)的学说的力量的同时,它批评了他中性化感知主体、抽象感官、忽视制造的感官乐趣和忽略事物的感官社会生活的方式。三个案例研究以例证的方式呈现:感知的感官考古学,拜占庭浅浮雕金属图标的“丰富的物质性”,以及十八世纪和十九世纪“女士工艺品”的触觉。代替英格尔理想中的典型人物——无根的旅行者、熟练的工匠——这篇文章揭示了人类主体在特定传统或感官和社会制度中的地位,以及这如何调节他们对事物和他人的构建和感知。
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引用次数: 8
Response to David Howes 对David Howes的回应
IF 0.9 3区 社会学 Q3 ANTHROPOLOGY Pub Date : 2022-05-09 DOI: 10.1177/13591835221092084
T. Ingold
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引用次数: 0
Pith and power: Colonial style in France and French West Africa 髓与权力:法国和法属西非的殖民风格
IF 0.9 3区 社会学 Q3 ANTHROPOLOGY Pub Date : 2022-05-09 DOI: 10.1177/13591835221090603
Victoria L. Rovine
Through close analysis of interwar French representations of the pith helmet, both visual and textual, I trace the array of significations to which this single form of material culture was harnessed as it moved between France and Afrique Occidentale Française. Though born of a vulnerability specific to white, European bodies, this headwear's distinctive, recognizable form became an emblem of imperial power for those same bodies. This imperial connotation propelled the helmet into dress practices on the other side of the colonial divide, where West African consumers brought further layers of semantic complexity to this headwear's colonial connotations. A select few West Africans wore pith helmets to signify their status as adjuncts to the French administration, thus extending that power. Others took up the pith helmet in defiance of French sartorial norms, bringing its associations with elite status into their own dress systems. Wherever it appeared, the pith helmet alluded to an elsewhere. In France, the helmet conjured the steamy climate of the colonies; in the colonies this headwear invoked the metropole and its administration of colonial subjects. My analysis demonstrates the complex roles of this key element of colonial material culture, which moved between colony to metropole, both projecting European power and revealing the precarity of that power.
通过仔细分析两次世界大战期间法国对髓盔的视觉和文本表现,我追溯了这种单一形式的物质文化在法国和西方非洲法语之间流动时所具有的一系列意义。尽管这种头饰天生就有欧洲白人身体特有的脆弱性,但其独特、可识别的形状成为了这些身体的帝国权力象征。这种帝国的内涵将头盔推向了殖民鸿沟另一边的着装实践,西非消费者为这种头饰的殖民内涵带来了更深层次的语义复杂性。少数西非人戴着木髓头盔,以表明他们作为法国政府副官的地位,从而扩大了这一权力。其他人则无视法国的着装规范,戴上了木髓头盔,将其与精英地位的联系纳入了自己的着装体系。无论它出现在哪里,髓形头盔都暗指别处。在法国,头盔让人联想到殖民地闷热的气候;在殖民地,这种头饰唤起了大都市及其对殖民地臣民的管理。我的分析证明了殖民物质文化的这一关键元素的复杂作用,它在殖民地到大都市之间流动,既投射了欧洲的力量,也揭示了这种力量的不稳定性。
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引用次数: 1
The affective economy and fast fashion: Materiality, embodied learning and developing a sensibility for sustainable clothing 情感经济与快时尚:物质性,体现学习和发展可持续服装的情感
IF 0.9 3区 社会学 Q3 ANTHROPOLOGY Pub Date : 2022-03-28 DOI: 10.1177/13591835221088524
Joanie Willett, C. Saunders, F. Hackney, Katie Hill
Many commentators recognise the need to make clothing more sustainable due to its deleterious environmental and social ramifications. However, it is challenging to change the consumer behaviour that drives fast fashion markets because people have complex relationships with clothing. In this study, we illustrate how the relationships that people have with clothing can be shaped by workshops that immerse them in making, mending, and modifying garments. Such experiential learning can encourage adoption of more sustainable clothing choices, such as reducing consumption of new garments and prolonging the life of already owned items of clothing. We present findings on a strand of work from the Arts and Humanities Research Council funded S4S: Designing a Sensibility for Sustainable Clothing project, which explored the affective economy around clothing, and considered how emotive affects around garments operate as a conduit to self-sustain particular practices. Our significant contribution brings political analysis firmly into the debate about sustainable clothing by merging literatures on behaviour change and affect, through exploration of a novel longitudinal (9-months) qualitative data set. At the start of the project, participants generally thought of clothes as being low-cost (and therefore disposable) items. The workshops, in contrast, presented garments and the materials from which they are made as precious, complex and fluid – in a process of continual possibility. For pro-environmental behavioural change, we find that immersion in the materiality of clothing mobilised affective processes, enabling potentially transformative affective encounters. Further, we found that group learning environments need to do more than simply teach approved normative values and behaviours. Pro-environmental behaviour change initiatives need to provide people with the space to create and situate their own knowledges, enabling affect to be mobilised, activated and supported by appropriate cultural milieu.
许多评论家认识到,由于其有害的环境和社会影响,有必要使服装更具可持续性。然而,改变推动快时尚市场的消费者行为是一项挑战,因为人们与服装有着复杂的关系。在这项研究中,我们展示了人们与服装的关系是如何通过让他们沉浸在制作、修补和修改服装中的工作坊来塑造的。这种体验式学习可以鼓励人们选择更可持续的服装,例如减少新服装的消费,延长已有服装的寿命。我们介绍了艺术与人文研究委员会资助的S4S:为可持续服装设计情感项目的一系列研究结果,该项目探索了服装周围的情感经济,并考虑了服装周围情感影响如何作为自我维持特定实践的渠道。我们的重大贡献是,通过探索一个新的纵向(9个月)定性数据集,将有关行为变化和影响的文献合并,将政治分析牢牢地带入了关于可持续服装的辩论中。在项目开始时,参与者通常认为衣服是低成本的(因此是一次性的)物品。相比之下,这些研讨会展示了服装及其制作材料的珍贵性、复杂性和流动性,这是一个持续的可能性过程。对于有利于环境的行为改变,我们发现,沉浸在服装的物质性中会调动情感过程,从而实现潜在的变革性情感体验。此外,我们发现,小组学习环境需要做的不仅仅是简单地教授认可的规范价值观和行为。支持环境的行为改变倡议需要为人们提供创造和定位自己知识的空间,使情感能够被适当的文化环境调动、激活和支持。
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引用次数: 3
Making a home in the world: Clothes as mnemonic devices through which refugees experience home in flight and resettlement 在世界上建立一个家:衣服作为记忆装置,难民通过它在逃亡和重新安置中体验家
IF 0.9 3区 社会学 Q3 ANTHROPOLOGY Pub Date : 2022-03-24 DOI: 10.1177/13591835221088512
Charlotte D. Schneider
How do refugees experience home not just in the country of settlement but also along their journeys of flight? Departing from theories that see home as something which is left behind in displacement, this paper explores how clothes act as important mnemonic devices, storing and archiving memories from different times and places, whilst connecting people to new places en route. Through the in-depth analysis of two refugees’ stories, this paper highlights that home is not a onetime accomplishment but a lived experience that people are continuously involved in, especially in times of upheaval and transformation as they search for a safer place to be in the world. Clothes, as one of the few materials that refugees carry, become central to this lived experience not only as semiotic devices, carrying different narratives of home, but also as sensual materials through which different sensations of home are carried, transformed, and negotiated.
难民不仅在定居国,而且在他们的逃亡之旅中是如何体验家的?从将家视为流离失所后留下的东西的理论出发,本文探讨了衣服如何作为重要的记忆设备,存储和归档来自不同时间和地点的记忆,同时将人们与新的地方联系起来。通过对两个难民故事的深入分析,本文强调了家不是一次性的成就,而是人们不断参与的生活体验,特别是在动荡和变革的时代,人们在世界上寻找一个更安全的地方。衣服,作为难民携带的少数材料之一,成为这种生活体验的核心,不仅作为符号化的装置,承载着不同的家的叙述,而且作为感性的材料,通过它,不同的家的感觉被携带、转化和协商。
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引用次数: 0
Creels and catenary wires: Creating community through winter lights displays 爬线和接触网:通过冬季灯光展示创建社区
IF 0.9 3区 社会学 Q3 ANTHROPOLOGY Pub Date : 2022-03-22 DOI: 10.1177/13591835221089547
J. Bennett
Lighting up darkness is a material practice shared across many cultures. Lighting up winter darkness is a particular concern in urban areas in order to make urban spaces feel safer and more welcoming. Temporary lights, often characterised as ‘Christmas’ or ‘Winter’ lights, are installed over the darkest period of the year (December in the northern hemisphere) in town and city centres to attract shoppers and tourists. This paper examines the lights displays installed over the Christmas/ New Year period in two British towns. In each case the lights are installed by volunteers, who also arrange a ‘switch on’ community celebration. The research argues that the architecture of the lights signifies and reinforces the identities of the communities involved. In particular, the paper examines: the importance of infrastructure for the ongoing creation of community; the creative potential of these temporary structures for community identity; and the essential materiality of community.
点亮黑暗是许多文化中共同的物质实践。点亮冬季的黑暗是城市地区特别关注的问题,目的是让城市空间感觉更安全、更受欢迎。临时灯,通常被称为“圣诞节”或“冬季”灯,在一年中最黑暗的时期(北半球的12月)安装在城镇中心,以吸引购物者和游客。本文考察了英国两个城镇在圣诞节/新年期间安装的灯光显示器。在每种情况下,这些灯都是由志愿者安装的,他们还安排了一次“开启”社区庆祝活动。该研究认为,灯光的建筑象征并强化了相关社区的身份。该文件特别审查了:基础设施对持续创建社区的重要性;这些临时结构对社区认同的创造性潜力;以及社区的本质实质性。
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引用次数: 0
Under one roof: Material changes and familial estrangement in Puno, Peru 同一个屋檐下:秘鲁普诺的物质变化和家庭隔阂
IF 0.9 3区 社会学 Q3 ANTHROPOLOGY Pub Date : 2022-03-21 DOI: 10.1177/13591835221088515
S. Narayanan
Traditional, Indigenous houses in Puno, Peru, were built using adobe bricks, stone, and wood. Today, young Indigenous couples are building houses that utilize modern materials such as concrete, brick, and steel. In this paper, I analyze the effects that changing materialities of house construction practices have on the durability and breadth of kin-relationships in Puno. I argue that these changes are possible due to the kind of personhood that houses occupy within kin networks in the Puno and the Andes. Furthermore, I show how access to new materials allows younger families to build houses more quickly than their parents did, shortening the time to develop stronger kin relationships that were once afforded by building with traditional materials. These new materials affect the house's ability to make and maintain kinship in the future where the quality of kin relationships is directly influenced by the material qualia of the house.
秘鲁普诺的传统土著房屋是用土坯砖、石头和木材建造的。如今,年轻的土著夫妇正在建造使用混凝土、砖和钢等现代材料的房屋。在本文中,我分析了在普诺,不断变化的房屋建筑材料对亲属关系的持久性和广度的影响。我认为,这些变化之所以可能,是因为在普诺和安第斯山脉的亲属网络中,房屋所占据的人格。此外,我还展示了获得新材料如何让年轻家庭比父母更快地建造房屋,缩短了发展更牢固的亲属关系的时间,而这种关系曾经是用传统材料建造的。这些新材料影响了房子在未来建立和维持亲属关系的能力,而亲属关系的质量直接受到房子材料质量的影响。
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引用次数: 1
Making masks: The women behind Ghana's nose covering mandate during the COVID-19 outbreak 制作口罩:新冠肺炎爆发期间,加纳口罩规定背后的女性
IF 0.9 3区 社会学 Q3 ANTHROPOLOGY Pub Date : 2022-03-18 DOI: 10.1177/13591835221086870
Abena Dove Osseo-Asare
In 2020, Ghanaians adopted face masks, or “nose masks,” in public places to combat the spread of a novel coronavirus, SARS-CoV-2. Seamstresses and tailors quickly pivoted to manufacture nose masks by April, given the longstanding cottage sewing industry. While the country saw an influx of disposable face masks by the end of the year, cloth mask makers made a significant impact on public health at the start of the pandemic. This article considers how people were able to quickly popularize nose masks in 2020, noting the key role women seamstresses played alongside public leaders, the Ghana Standards Authority, and the police who used punitive punishments and coercive tactics to encourage sustained use as the pandemic continued. It marks one of the first studies on the history and cultural use of nose masks in an African country, comparing their use and adoption to other national mask responses, including those in the United States, Japan, and the Czech Republic.
2020年,加纳人在公共场所使用口罩或“鼻口罩”,以遏制新型冠状病毒SARS-CoV-2的传播。考虑到长期存在的家庭作坊式缝纫行业,到4月,裁缝和裁缝很快转向生产鼻罩。尽管到今年年底,该国一次性口罩大量涌入,但布口罩制造商在疫情开始时对公众健康产生了重大影响。这篇文章考虑了人们如何在2020年迅速普及鼻罩,指出了女裁缝与公共领导人、加纳标准管理局和警察一起发挥的关键作用,她们在疫情持续期间使用惩罚性惩罚和胁迫策略鼓励持续使用鼻罩。这是第一批关于非洲国家鼻罩历史和文化使用的研究之一,将鼻罩的使用和采用与其他国家的口罩反应进行了比较,包括美国、日本和捷克共和国的口罩反应。
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引用次数: 1
In memory of future earthquakes: Controversial new form and function of a commemorative statue in 1920s Tokyo 纪念未来的地震:20世纪20年代东京一座有争议的纪念雕像的新形式和功能
IF 0.9 3区 社会学 Q3 ANTHROPOLOGY Pub Date : 2022-03-18 DOI: 10.1177/13591835221086874
J. Borland
Earthquake memorials dot the Japanese archipelago, marking its long history of destructive tremors. Today, many of these memorials are designed to serve the dual purpose of commemorating victims, and educating future generations. Almost a hundred years ago, however, this idea that a commemorative statue could also serve as a pedagogical tool proved to be novel and controversial. This article focuses on a case study of a memorial dubbed the Statue of Sadness. First unveiled to the public in 1929, the life-like figures of twelve children provoked an outcry. By exploring the conflicting hopes and expectations from the perspective of different stakeholders, I highlight the complicated issues surrounding earthquakes, commemoration, and children. I argue that the new form and function of the statue reflected the emerging desire of Japanese educators and government officials to educate future generations about the risk of earthquakes by reminding them about the tragic deaths of children, not to comfort bereaved families as many hoped. These issues are relevant today for communities endeavouring to construct memorials in order to save lives in the future.
地震纪念馆遍布日本列岛,标志着其破坏性地震的悠久历史。如今,这些纪念馆中的许多都是为了纪念受害者和教育后代的双重目的而设计的。然而,大约一百年前,纪念雕像也可以作为教学工具的想法被证明是新颖和有争议的。本文以一座名为“悲伤女神像”的纪念馆为例进行研究。1929年首次向公众公布的12个孩子的栩栩如生的形象引起了强烈抗议。通过从不同利益相关者的角度探讨相互冲突的希望和期望,我强调了围绕地震、纪念活动和儿童的复杂问题。我认为,雕像的新形式和功能反映了日本教育工作者和政府官员的新愿望,即通过提醒后代儿童的悲惨死亡来教育他们地震的风险,而不是像许多人希望的那样安慰失去亲人的家庭。今天,这些问题与致力于建造纪念馆以在未来拯救生命的社区有关。
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引用次数: 1
Money, memory objects and material practices in the everyday conduct of inter-ethnic marriages in Indonesia 印度尼西亚种族间婚姻日常行为中的金钱、记忆对象和物质习俗
IF 0.9 3区 社会学 Q3 ANTHROPOLOGY Pub Date : 2022-03-18 DOI: 10.1177/13591835221086862
Jony Eko Yulianto, Darrin Hodgetts, Pita King, James H. Liu
In the context of historical and ongoing tensions between different ethnic groups, inter-ethnic marriages are increasingly prevalent in Indonesia today. This article explores the social materiality of memory objects (money and related household items) in the negotiation of shared lifeworlds within two inter-ethnic marriages between Javanese and Chinese Indonesians. The research is based on detailed fieldwork conducted face-to-face in East Java over a 10 week period, and supported with further online interactions with participating couples. We demonstrate how a focus on money and related material practices can offer new understandings of how couples respond agentively to inter-cultural tensions in their marriages and strive towards harmony. In doing so we demonstrate how values of cooperation and prudence are articulated through things and related practices, and in the process are harnessed to support couples efforts to build mutually supportive lives together. In the process we document how objects, including money, an onion peeling machine and food emerge in these relationships as both practical things and objects of care, cooperation and affection. This research demonstrates that whilst still of crucial importance, a focus on inter-cultural tensions and the conflicts these can cause can be complimented with a focus on couple's agentive efforts to manage and contain such tensions as they build culturally hybrid lives together.
在不同种族群体之间历史上和持续的紧张关系的背景下,种族间婚姻在今天的印度尼西亚越来越普遍。本文探讨了记忆对象(金钱和相关的家庭物品)在爪哇人和华裔印尼人两次种族间婚姻中共同生活世界谈判中的社会物质性。这项研究基于在东爪哇面对面进行的为期10周的详细实地调查,并与参与的夫妇进行了进一步的在线互动。我们展示了对金钱和相关物质实践的关注如何为夫妻如何在婚姻中积极应对跨文化紧张关系并努力实现和谐提供新的理解。在这样做的过程中,我们展示了合作和谨慎的价值观是如何通过事情和相关实践来表达的,并在这个过程中被用来支持夫妻共同建立相互支持的生活。在这个过程中,我们记录了包括金钱、洋葱去皮机和食物在内的物品是如何在这些关系中成为实际的东西以及关心、合作和关爱的对象的。这项研究表明,尽管仍然至关重要,但关注文化间的紧张关系及其可能引发的冲突,可以与关注夫妇在共同建立文化混合生活时为管理和遏制这种紧张关系所做的代理努力相补充。
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引用次数: 3
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Journal of Material Culture
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