{"title":"Estimating extreme beach erosion frequency from a Monte Carlo simulation of wave climate","authors":"D. P. Callaghan, P. Nielsen, R. Ranasinghe","doi":"10.2112/jcr-si50-018.1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2112/jcr-si50-018.1","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51078,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Coastal Research","volume":"61 13","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-03-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140364887","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"地球科学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
A. Vespremeanu‐Stroe, Ş. Constantinescu, F. Tătui, L. Giosan
VESPREMEANU-STROE, A.,CONSTANTINESCU, Ş., TĂTUI, F. and GIOSAN, L., 2007. Multi-decadal Evolution and North Atlantic Oscillation Influences on the Dynamics of the Danube Delta Shoreline. Journal of Coastal Research, SI 50 (Proceedings of the 9th International Coastal Symposium), 157 – 162. Gold Coast, Australia, ISSN 0749.0208 A comprehensive analysis of data collected over the last five decades on the Danube delta coast (topographic maps, satellite imagery, GPS surveys and beach profiles) revealed two different shoreline dynamics patterns: (1) high mobility during 1961-1979 interval with high retreating and; (2) advancing rates and low mobility afterwards (1979-2006). The divergence zones in the longshore sediment transport system experienced the highest rates of retreat (~20 m/yr and ~10 m/yr in the first/second time interval), whereas the shoreline advanced fastest along the coast of active lobes (i.e., Chilia and Sf. Gheorghe lobes). During the second interval the decrease of shoreline changes rates was similar for the erosive beaches (with 55-66%) and non-uniform for the accretionary coasts (20-61% for open beaches and 80% for the sheltered secondary deltas). Wind data analysis reveals a good connection between multi-decadal winter storm frequency along the Danube delta coast and negative NAO phases (r = -0.76). The results of the present study clearly show that shoreline changes at decadal time scales are also ultimately driven by the NAO which controls the storminess on the Danube delta coast. ADDITIONAL INDEX WORDS: shoreline retreat/advance, longshore sediment transport (LST), storms, multi-decadal climate variability, Black Sea
VESPREMEANU-STROE, A.,CONSTANTINESCU, Ş., TĂTUI, F. and GIOSAN, L., 2007.Multi-decadal Evolution and North Atlantic Oscillation Influences on the Dynamics of the Danube Delta Shoreline.Journal of Coastal Research, SI 50 (Proceedings of the 9th International Coastal Symposium), 157 - 162.澳大利亚黄金海岸，ISSN 0749.0208 对过去五十年多瑙河三角洲海岸收集的数据（地形图、卫星图像、全球定位系统调查和海滩剖面图）进行综合分析，发现了两种不同的海岸线动态模式：(1) 1961-1979 年间的高流动性与高后退；(2) 此后（1979-2006 年）的前进率与低流动性。长岸沉积物输运系统中的分流区的后退速度最快（在第一个/第二个时间区间分别为约 20 米/年和约 10 米/年），而活跃裂片（即 Chilia 和 Sf. Gheorghe 裂片）沿岸的海岸线前进速度最快。在第二个时间间隔内，侵蚀性海滩的海岸线变化率下降幅度相似（55%-66%），而增生海岸的海岸线变化率则不均匀（开阔海滩为 20%-61%，受庇护的次级三角洲为 80%）。风力数据分析显示，多瑙河三角洲沿岸多年冬季风暴频率与负 NAO 相位之间存在良好联系（r = -0.76）。本研究结果清楚地表明，海岸线在十年时间尺度上的变化最终也是由控制多瑙河三角洲沿岸风暴的西北风环流所驱动的。补充索引词：海岸线后退/前进、沿岸沉积物输送（LST）、风暴、十年期气候多变性、黑海
{"title":"Multi-decadal Evolution and North Atlantic Oscillation Influences on the Dynamics of the Danube Delta Shoreline","authors":"A. Vespremeanu‐Stroe, Ş. Constantinescu, F. Tătui, L. Giosan","doi":"10.2112/jcr-si50-031.1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2112/jcr-si50-031.1","url":null,"abstract":"VESPREMEANU-STROE, A.,CONSTANTINESCU, Ş., TĂTUI, F. and GIOSAN, L., 2007. Multi-decadal Evolution and North Atlantic Oscillation Influences on the Dynamics of the Danube Delta Shoreline. Journal of Coastal Research, SI 50 (Proceedings of the 9th International Coastal Symposium), 157 – 162. Gold Coast, Australia, ISSN 0749.0208 A comprehensive analysis of data collected over the last five decades on the Danube delta coast (topographic maps, satellite imagery, GPS surveys and beach profiles) revealed two different shoreline dynamics patterns: (1) high mobility during 1961-1979 interval with high retreating and; (2) advancing rates and low mobility afterwards (1979-2006). The divergence zones in the longshore sediment transport system experienced the highest rates of retreat (~20 m/yr and ~10 m/yr in the first/second time interval), whereas the shoreline advanced fastest along the coast of active lobes (i.e., Chilia and Sf. Gheorghe lobes). During the second interval the decrease of shoreline changes rates was similar for the erosive beaches (with 55-66%) and non-uniform for the accretionary coasts (20-61% for open beaches and 80% for the sheltered secondary deltas). Wind data analysis reveals a good connection between multi-decadal winter storm frequency along the Danube delta coast and negative NAO phases (r = -0.76). The results of the present study clearly show that shoreline changes at decadal time scales are also ultimately driven by the NAO which controls the storminess on the Danube delta coast. ADDITIONAL INDEX WORDS: shoreline retreat/advance, longshore sediment transport (LST), storms, multi-decadal climate variability, Black Sea","PeriodicalId":51078,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Coastal Research","volume":"62 28","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-03-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140365014","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"地球科学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Australian Rip Systems – Friend or Foe?","authors":"A. Short","doi":"10.2112/jcr-si50-002.1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2112/jcr-si50-002.1","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51078,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Coastal Research","volume":"6 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-03-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140365377","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"地球科学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
N. T. Minh Hang, H. Araki, N. Cao Don, H. Yamanishi, K. Koga
{"title":"Hydrodynamics and Water Quality Modelling for the Ecosystem of the Ariake Sea, Kyushu, Japan","authors":"N. T. Minh Hang, H. Araki, N. Cao Don, H. Yamanishi, K. Koga","doi":"10.2112/jcr-si50-149.1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2112/jcr-si50-149.1","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51078,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Coastal Research","volume":"29 4","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-03-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140365663","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"地球科学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
L.S. Esteves, J.J. Williams, M. Lisniowski, H. Perotto
{"title":"Measured Cross-Shore and Vertical Variations in Grain Size, Sorting and Composition in Suspended Sediments Transported by Longshore Currents","authors":"L.S. Esteves, J.J. Williams, M. Lisniowski, H. Perotto","doi":"10.2112/jcr-si50-116.1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2112/jcr-si50-116.1","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51078,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Coastal Research","volume":"12 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-03-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140365839","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"地球科学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"The Use of Video Systems to Measure Run-up on Beaches","authors":"S. Salmon, K. R. Bryan, G. Coco","doi":"10.2112/jcr-si50-041.1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2112/jcr-si50-041.1","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51078,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Coastal Research","volume":"64 5","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-03-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140366008","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"地球科学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
REICHERT, K. and LUND, B., 2007. Ground based remote sensing as a tool to measure spatial wave field variations in coastal approaches. Journal of Coastal Research, SI 50 (Proceedings of the 9th International Coastal Symposium), pg – pg. Gold Coast, Australia, ISBN The wave monitoring system WaMoS II was developed for real time measurements of directional ocean wave spectra. The system is based on a standard marine X-band radar and can be operated to monitor the sea state from fixed platforms, in coastal areas or from moving vessels. In contrary to wave buoys it allows for temporal and spatial wave analysis. Wave data are needed in coastal areas to help increase safety of ship navigation and improve coastal protection strategies. This paper presents data obtained from the island of Sylt, Germany and at the entrance to Port Phillip Bay, Australia. Both regions are characterised by a complex bottom topography that leads to a highly spatially variable wave field. The wave transformation such as refraction, shoaling, and dissipation are described and quantified. WaMoS II proves to be a powerful tool to monitor changes of sea state caused by local topography.
REICHERT, K. and LUND, B., 2007.The ocean and the ocean of the ocean.The wave monitoring system WaMoS II was developed for real time measurement of directional ocean wave spectra.该系统以标准的海洋 X 波段雷达为基础，可从固定平台、沿海地区或移动船只上监测海况。与波浪浮标相反，它可以进行时间和空间波浪分析。沿海地区需要波浪数据，以帮助提高船舶航行安全和改进海岸保护战略。本文介绍了从德国 Sylt 岛和澳大利亚菲利普港湾入口处获得的数据。这两个地区的海底地形复杂，导致波场的空间变化很大。对折射、浅滩和消散等波浪变化进行了描述和量化。事实证明，WaMoS II 是监测当地地形造成的海况变化的有力工具。
{"title":"Ground based remote sensing as a tool to measure spatial wave field variations in coastal approaches","authors":"K. Reichert, B. Lund","doi":"10.2112/jcr-si50-082.1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2112/jcr-si50-082.1","url":null,"abstract":"REICHERT, K. and LUND, B., 2007. Ground based remote sensing as a tool to measure spatial wave field variations in coastal approaches. Journal of Coastal Research, SI 50 (Proceedings of the 9th International Coastal Symposium), pg – pg. Gold Coast, Australia, ISBN The wave monitoring system WaMoS II was developed for real time measurements of directional ocean wave spectra. The system is based on a standard marine X-band radar and can be operated to monitor the sea state from fixed platforms, in coastal areas or from moving vessels. In contrary to wave buoys it allows for temporal and spatial wave analysis. Wave data are needed in coastal areas to help increase safety of ship navigation and improve coastal protection strategies. This paper presents data obtained from the island of Sylt, Germany and at the entrance to Port Phillip Bay, Australia. Both regions are characterised by a complex bottom topography that leads to a highly spatially variable wave field. The wave transformation such as refraction, shoaling, and dissipation are described and quantified. WaMoS II proves to be a powerful tool to monitor changes of sea state caused by local topography.","PeriodicalId":51078,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Coastal Research","volume":"91 11","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-03-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140366353","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"地球科学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
BUTT, T., RUSSELL, P., MILES, J. AND TURNER, I., 2007. Sediment Transport Processes in the Swash Zone of Sandy Beaches. Journal of Coastal Research, SI 50 (Proceedings of the 9th International Coastal Symposium), 636 – 640. Gold Coast, Australia, ISSN 0749.0208 In recent years, there has been a general resurgence of interest in the swash zone. However, it still remains one of the least well understood parts of the coastal zone. The sediment transport and resulting morphological changes in the swash zone are notoriously difficult to predict. Energetics-type formulations are less useful for predicting sediment transport in the swash zone than further seaward, particularly as conditions become more reflective. One reason for this is the existence of processes in the swash zone such as bore turbulence, inexfiltration and sediment advection. This paper presents an overview of the findings from a recent 3-year UK swash-zone field study with particular focus on these processes and the way their influence varies according to the prevalent hydrodynamic and morphological conditions. There is now evidence that (a) the influence of bore turbulence decreases with increasing dissipativeness, (b) in-exfiltration biases the transport onshore or offshore above and below a particular grain size respectively and (c) sediment advection may bias the transport onshore in reflective conditions and offshore in high-energy dissipative conditions. ADDITIONAL INDEX WORDS: Advection, Backwash, Bore turbulence, Energetics, In-exfiltration, Uprush.
BUTT, T., RUSSELL, P., MILES, J. AND TURNER, I., 2007.Sediment Transport Processes in the Swash Zone of Sandy Beaches.Journal of Coastal Research, SI 50 (Proceedings of the 9th International Coastal Symposium), 636 - 640.澳大利亚黄金海岸，ISSN 0749.0208 近年来，人们对沼泽区的兴趣普遍回升。然而，它仍然是沿岸带中了解最少的部分之一。众所周知，泥沙输运和由此引起的斜带形态变化很难预测。在预测沼泽地带的沉积物运移时，能量类型的公式不如更远的海域有用，特别是当条件变得更 具反射性时。原因之一是斜流区内存在孔内湍流、非过滤和沉积物平流等过程。本文概述了最近为期 3 年的英国沼泽区实地研究的结果，重点是这些过程及其影响随主要水动力和形态条件的变化而变化的方式。目前有证据表明：(a) 内孔湍流的影响会随着耗散度的增加而减小；(b) 内滤作用会使特定粒径以上和以下的沉积物分别向岸上或近海迁移；(c) 沉积物平流作用会使反射条件下的沉积物向岸上迁移和高能耗散条件下的沉积物向近海迁移产生偏差。补充索引词：平流、反冲、孔洞湍流、能量学、内-外滤、上涌。
{"title":"Sediment Transport Processes in the Swash Zone of Sandy Beaches","authors":"T. Butt, P. Russell, Jon Miles, Ian L Turner","doi":"10.2112/jcr-si50-120.1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2112/jcr-si50-120.1","url":null,"abstract":"BUTT, T., RUSSELL, P., MILES, J. AND TURNER, I., 2007. Sediment Transport Processes in the Swash Zone of Sandy Beaches. Journal of Coastal Research, SI 50 (Proceedings of the 9th International Coastal Symposium), 636 – 640. Gold Coast, Australia, ISSN 0749.0208 In recent years, there has been a general resurgence of interest in the swash zone. However, it still remains one of the least well understood parts of the coastal zone. The sediment transport and resulting morphological changes in the swash zone are notoriously difficult to predict. Energetics-type formulations are less useful for predicting sediment transport in the swash zone than further seaward, particularly as conditions become more reflective. One reason for this is the existence of processes in the swash zone such as bore turbulence, inexfiltration and sediment advection. This paper presents an overview of the findings from a recent 3-year UK swash-zone field study with particular focus on these processes and the way their influence varies according to the prevalent hydrodynamic and morphological conditions. There is now evidence that (a) the influence of bore turbulence decreases with increasing dissipativeness, (b) in-exfiltration biases the transport onshore or offshore above and below a particular grain size respectively and (c) sediment advection may bias the transport onshore in reflective conditions and offshore in high-energy dissipative conditions. ADDITIONAL INDEX WORDS: Advection, Backwash, Bore turbulence, Energetics, In-exfiltration, Uprush.","PeriodicalId":51078,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Coastal Research","volume":"77 7","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-03-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140366638","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"地球科学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Long Waves and Beach Profile Evolutions","authors":"H. Michallet, F. Grasso, E. Barthélemy","doi":"10.2112/jcr-si50-043.1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2112/jcr-si50-043.1","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51078,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Coastal Research","volume":"29 7","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-03-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140366738","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"地球科学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
京公网安备 11010802042870号
京ICP备2023020795号-1
扫码关注我们
求助内容：
应助结果提醒方式：