{"title":"Experimental Observations on the Submerged Discharge of Brine into Coastal Water in Flowing Current","authors":"B. Shiau, Cheng-Lin Yang, B. Tsai","doi":"10.2112/jcr-si50-147.1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2112/jcr-si50-147.1","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51078,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Coastal Research","volume":"27 6","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-03-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140368205","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"地球科学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
P. Ciavola, C. Armaroli, J. Chiggiato, A. Valentini, M. Deserti, L. Perini, P. Luciani
P. CIAVOLA, C. ARMAROLI, J. CHIGGIATO, A. VALENTINI, M. DESERTI, L. PERINI and P. LUCIANI, 2007. Impact of storms along the coastline of Emilia-Romagna: the morphological signature on the Ravenna coastline (Italy). Journal of Coastal Research, SI 50 (Proceedings of the 9th International Coastal Symposium), pg – pg. Gold Coast, Australia, ISBN) The coastal zone of the Emilia-Romagna region is exposed to risk from coastal flooding during storms. The vulnerability of this coastline is a topic of interest for future coastal planning as this area provides large revenue for coastal communities and the whole region. An assessment of the historical record of storm events for the period 2000-2004 was carried out using a wave generation model, fed by archived atmospheric circulation data. High-resolution air-borne laser detection technology (LIDAR) and video-monitoring (ARGUS) have permitted to undertake a feasibility study for the assessment of coastal erosion and flooding patterns along one of the bestpreserved dune systems of the area. The source of the work was the comparison between two LIDAR flights at an interval of one year (July 2003-September 2004) with the second flight carried out after a major storm occurred in September 2004, with a return period of 25-years. Following this exceptional event the whole coastal system resulted to be in a state of weakness. The study presented in this paper suggests that for the coast of the Emilia-Romagna region the critical factor that controls dune destruction and inland flooding is the joint occurrence of storm waves and surges. Beach slope is the main morphological control on wave run-up and the impact evaluation for the exceptional event has proved that a wide beach can be considered a symptom of safety. A small beach replenishment was undertaken on the test site but this resulted to be ineffective because of the small volume.
P.CIAVOLA, C. ARMAROLI, J. CHIGGIATO, A. VALENTINI, M. DESERTI, L. PERINI and P. LUCIANI, 2007.风暴对艾米利亚-罗马涅海岸线的影响：拉文纳海岸线（意大利）的形态特征。The coastal zone of the Emilia-Romagna region is exposed to risk from coastal flooding during storms.由于该地区为沿海社区和整个地区提供了大量收入，因此该海岸线的脆弱性是未来沿海规划的一个重要课题。利用波浪生成模型和大气环流存档数据，对 2000-2004 年期间风暴事件的历史记录进行了评估。通过高分辨率空中激光探测技术（激光雷达）和视频监测技术（ARGUS），对该地区 保存最完好的沙丘系统之一的海岸侵蚀和洪水模式进行了可行性研究。这项工作的源头是对间隔一年（2003 年 7 月至 2004 年 9 月）的两次激光雷达飞行进行比较，第二次飞行是在 2004 年 9 月发生 25 年一遇的大风暴之后进行的。在这一特殊事件之后，整个海岸系统处于衰弱状态。本文的研究表明，对于艾米利亚-罗马涅地区的海岸来说，控制沙丘破坏和内陆洪水的 关键因素是风暴潮和浪涌的共同作用。海滩坡度是波浪上升的主要形态控制因素，对特殊事件的影响评估证明，宽阔的海滩是安全的象征。在试验场地进行了小规模的海滩补给，但由于补给量小，效果不佳。
{"title":"Impact of storms along the coastline of Emilia-Romagna: the morphological signature on the Ravenna coastline (Italy)","authors":"P. Ciavola, C. Armaroli, J. Chiggiato, A. Valentini, M. Deserti, L. Perini, P. Luciani","doi":"10.2112/jcr-si50-103.1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2112/jcr-si50-103.1","url":null,"abstract":"P. CIAVOLA, C. ARMAROLI, J. CHIGGIATO, A. VALENTINI, M. DESERTI, L. PERINI and P. LUCIANI, 2007. Impact of storms along the coastline of Emilia-Romagna: the morphological signature on the Ravenna coastline (Italy). Journal of Coastal Research, SI 50 (Proceedings of the 9th International Coastal Symposium), pg – pg. Gold Coast, Australia, ISBN) The coastal zone of the Emilia-Romagna region is exposed to risk from coastal flooding during storms. The vulnerability of this coastline is a topic of interest for future coastal planning as this area provides large revenue for coastal communities and the whole region. An assessment of the historical record of storm events for the period 2000-2004 was carried out using a wave generation model, fed by archived atmospheric circulation data. High-resolution air-borne laser detection technology (LIDAR) and video-monitoring (ARGUS) have permitted to undertake a feasibility study for the assessment of coastal erosion and flooding patterns along one of the bestpreserved dune systems of the area. The source of the work was the comparison between two LIDAR flights at an interval of one year (July 2003-September 2004) with the second flight carried out after a major storm occurred in September 2004, with a return period of 25-years. Following this exceptional event the whole coastal system resulted to be in a state of weakness. The study presented in this paper suggests that for the coast of the Emilia-Romagna region the critical factor that controls dune destruction and inland flooding is the joint occurrence of storm waves and surges. Beach slope is the main morphological control on wave run-up and the impact evaluation for the exceptional event has proved that a wide beach can be considered a symptom of safety. A small beach replenishment was undertaken on the test site but this resulted to be ineffective because of the small volume.","PeriodicalId":51078,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Coastal Research","volume":"44 10","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-03-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140368235","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"地球科学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
LU, J.-F. AND JENG, D.-S., 2007. A coupled model for an offshore pile, seabed and seawater interaction. Journal of Coastal Research, SI 50 (Proceedings of the 9th International Coastal Symposium), 389 – 393. Gold Coast, Australia, ISSN 0749.0208 A coupled model is developed to investigate the dynamic interaction between an offshore pile, poroelastic seabed and sea water. The pile and the seabed are treated as saturated porous media described by Biot’s dynamic theory. The sea water is regarded as an acoustic medium which is characterised by the Helmholtz equation. Three boundary element formulations are constructed for the pile, the seabed and the sea water, respectively. The three boundary element method formulations and the continuity conditions (stress and displacement) between the pile, the seabed and the sea water are used to formulate the coupled model for the system. Airy linear wave theory is used to evaluate the external force applied on the pile and the seabed due to the incident and the scattered water waves. The dynamic response of the system is calculated by the coupled boundary element method formulation. A numerical example is used to demonstrate the capacity of the coupled model.
LU, J.-F.and JENG, D.-S., 2007.A coupled model for an offshore pile, seabed and seawater interaction.Journal of Coastal Research, SI 50 (Proceedings of the 9th International Coastal Symposium), 389 - 393.澳大利亚黄金海岸，ISSN 0749.0208 建立了一个耦合模型来研究近海桩、多孔弹性海床和海水之间的动态相互作用。桩和海床被视为饱和多孔介质，由 Biot 动力理论描述。海水被视为声学介质，由亥姆霍兹方程描述。分别针对桩体、海床和海水构建了三种边界元计算方法。利用这三种边界元法公式以及桩体、海床和海水之间的连续性条件（应力和位移）来建立系统的耦合模型。空气线性波理论用于评估入射波和散射水波对桩体和海床施加的外力。通过耦合边界元法计算系统的动态响应。通过一个数值示例展示了耦合模型的能力。
{"title":"A Coupled Model for an Offshore Pile, Seabed and Seawater Interaction","authors":"Jian-Fei Lu, D. Jeng","doi":"10.2112/jcr-si50-076.1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2112/jcr-si50-076.1","url":null,"abstract":"LU, J.-F. AND JENG, D.-S., 2007. A coupled model for an offshore pile, seabed and seawater interaction. Journal of Coastal Research, SI 50 (Proceedings of the 9th International Coastal Symposium), 389 – 393. Gold Coast, Australia, ISSN 0749.0208 A coupled model is developed to investigate the dynamic interaction between an offshore pile, poroelastic seabed and sea water. The pile and the seabed are treated as saturated porous media described by Biot’s dynamic theory. The sea water is regarded as an acoustic medium which is characterised by the Helmholtz equation. Three boundary element formulations are constructed for the pile, the seabed and the sea water, respectively. The three boundary element method formulations and the continuity conditions (stress and displacement) between the pile, the seabed and the sea water are used to formulate the coupled model for the system. Airy linear wave theory is used to evaluate the external force applied on the pile and the seabed due to the incident and the scattered water waves. The dynamic response of the system is calculated by the coupled boundary element method formulation. A numerical example is used to demonstrate the capacity of the coupled model.","PeriodicalId":51078,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Coastal Research","volume":"15 8","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-03-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140368676","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"地球科学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
The upwelling structure and its seasonal variation along Zhejiang and Fujian coast of the East China Sea are studied using a three-dimensional baroclinic nonlinear numerical model forced by QuikSCAT winds over 20002004, in which other important factors such as realistic topography, boundary currents (Taiwan Warm Current, Kuroshio and Changjiang Discharge) and heat flux are all included. Numerical model results indicate that there exist obvious upwellings in the coastal area along Zhejiang and Fujian coast during every season and their intensity and spatial distribution have distinct seasonal variability. The stronger upwelling centres are mostly located in the vicinity of Zhoushan Islands and Yushan Archipelago of Zhejiang coast, Haitan Island and Mazu Archipelago of Fujian coast. In addition, the mean upwelling velocity is about 0.3 x 10(-3) cm/s and the magnitude of upwelling intensity is 10(-3) cm/s in winter, while in summer they are about 0.3 x 10(-2) cm/s and 10(-2) cm/s, respectively. The modelling results also show that the change rate of upwelling intensity is less in wintertime with the weaker coastal upwelling but quite to the contrary in summertime.
利用 2000~2004 年 QuikSCAT 风驱动的三维条带非线性数值模式研究了东海浙闽沿岸的上升流结构及其季节变化，并将现实地形、边界流（台湾暖流、黑潮和长江排流）和热通量等其他重要因素都包括在内。数值模式结果表明，浙闽沿海每个季节都存在明显的上升流，其强度和空间分布具有明显的季节变化。较强的上升流中心主要位于浙江沿海的舟山群岛和玉山群岛附近，福建沿海的海坛岛和妈祖群岛附近。此外，冬季平均上升流速度约为 0.3 x 10(-3) cm/s，上升流强度约为 10(-3) cm/s；夏季平均上升流速度约为 0.3 x 10(-2) cm/s，上升流强度约为 10(-2) cm/s。模拟结果还表明，冬季沿岸上升流较弱，上升流强度的变化率较小，而夏季则相反。
{"title":"Numerical Study on the Coastal Upwelling and Its Seasonal Variation in the East China Sea","authors":"Z. Jing, Z. Hua, Yq Qi, Xh Cheng","doi":"10.2112/jcr-si50-106.1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2112/jcr-si50-106.1","url":null,"abstract":"The upwelling structure and its seasonal variation along Zhejiang and Fujian coast of the East China Sea are studied using a three-dimensional baroclinic nonlinear numerical model forced by QuikSCAT winds over 20002004, in which other important factors such as realistic topography, boundary currents (Taiwan Warm Current, Kuroshio and Changjiang Discharge) and heat flux are all included. Numerical model results indicate that there exist obvious upwellings in the coastal area along Zhejiang and Fujian coast during every season and their intensity and spatial distribution have distinct seasonal variability. The stronger upwelling centres are mostly located in the vicinity of Zhoushan Islands and Yushan Archipelago of Zhejiang coast, Haitan Island and Mazu Archipelago of Fujian coast. In addition, the mean upwelling velocity is about 0.3 x 10(-3) cm/s and the magnitude of upwelling intensity is 10(-3) cm/s in winter, while in summer they are about 0.3 x 10(-2) cm/s and 10(-2) cm/s, respectively. The modelling results also show that the change rate of upwelling intensity is less in wintertime with the weaker coastal upwelling but quite to the contrary in summertime.","PeriodicalId":51078,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Coastal Research","volume":"59 19","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-03-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140365097","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"地球科学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
BUYNEVICH, I., BITINAS, A. and PUPIENIS, D., 2007. Reactivation of coastal dunes documented by subsurface imaging of the Great Dune Ridge, Lithuania. Journal of Coastal Research, SI 50 (Proceedings of the 9th International Coastal Symposium), 226 – 230. Gold Coast, Australia, ISSN 0749.0208 Large coastal and inland dunefields often consist of multiple generations defined by periods of stability and reactivation. Where earlier phases of aeolian activity are masked by subsequent deposition, continuous highresolution geophysical images help to reconstruct the history of landscape change. Ground-penetrating radar (GPR) profiles from relict Holocene dunes on the northern Curonian Spit, Lithuania reveal distinct contacts between older deposits (barrier-spit facies, older aeolian strata, paleosols) and overlying dune sands. Early stages of dune migration began prior to 6,000 years B.P. followed by several periods of stabilisation and subsequent reactivation. Parabolic and transverse dunes, some attaining heights of 40-60 m, have migrated to the east in response to westerly winds from the Baltic Sea. In several places, similar to a number of sites in Northern Europe, the upper sections of large dunes have been deflated leaving near-horizontal exposures where subsurface imaging extends the continuity of key stratigraphic horizons. Within dune sequences, oblique lateral accretion surfaces indicate the direction of earlier migration phases and exhibit distinct meso-scale geometries. In GPR images and shallow trenches, buried slipfaces have dip angles varying from 10-15o to 31-34o, the latter being similar to the angle of repose maintained by modern unvegetated dunes. A series of cores taken through sequences of stacked buried slipfaces show little visible variation in sediment properties with depth, suggesting that minor changes in texture, mineralogy and grain packing may be responsible for individual reflections in geophysical records. Occasionally, laterally extensive horizons enriched in heavy minerals produce prominent subsurface reflections and are indicative of periods of increased wind activity.
BUYNEVICH, I., BITINAS, A. and PUPIENIS, D., 2007.The ocean and the ocean of the ocean.The ocean and the ocean of the ocean of the ocean of the ocean of the ocean of the ocean of the ocean of the ocean of the ocean of the ocean of the ocean of the ocean of the ocean of the ocean of the ocean of the ocean of the ocean of the ocean of the ocean of the ocean of the ocean.The ocean and the ocean of the ocean of the ocean of the ocean of the ocean of the ocean of the ocean of the ocean of the ocean of the ocean of the ocean of the ocean of the ocean of the ocean of the ocean of the ocean of the ocean of the ocean of the ocean of the ocean of the ocean of the ocean of the ocean of the ocean of the ocean.当早期的风化活动被随后的沉积掩盖时，连续的高分辨率地球物理图像有助于重建景观变 化的历史。立陶宛库罗尼亚海湾北部全新世沙丘的探地雷达（GPR）剖面显示，较早的沉积物（屏障-海湾面、较早的风化层、古沉积物）与上覆沙丘沙之间存在明显的接触。沙丘迁移的早期阶段始于公元前 6,000 年之前，随后经历了几个稳定期和重新活跃期。抛物线状和横向沙丘（有些高达 40-60 米）在来自波罗的海的西风作用下向东迁移。在一些地方，与北欧的一些地点类似，大型沙丘的上部已经塌陷，留下了近乎水平的露头，在这些露头的地下成像中，关键地层的连续性得以延伸。在沙丘序列中，倾斜的横向增生面显示了早期迁移阶段的方向，并呈现出独特的中尺度几何形状。在 GPR 图像和浅沟中，埋藏的滑动面的倾角从 10-15o 到 31-34o 不等，后者与现代未植被沙丘保持的倾角相似。通过堆叠的埋藏滑动面序列采集的一系列岩芯显示，沉积物性质随深度的变化几乎不明显，这表明质地、矿物学和颗粒堆积的微小变化可能是地球物理记录中个别反射的原因。偶尔，富含重矿物的横向广泛地层会产生突出的次表层反射，表明风力活动增加的时期。
{"title":"Reactivation of Coastal Dunes Documented by Subsurface Imaging of the Great Dune Ridge, Lithuania","authors":"I. Buynevich, A. Bitinas, D. Pupienis","doi":"10.2112/jcr-si50-044.1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2112/jcr-si50-044.1","url":null,"abstract":"BUYNEVICH, I., BITINAS, A. and PUPIENIS, D., 2007. Reactivation of coastal dunes documented by subsurface imaging of the Great Dune Ridge, Lithuania. Journal of Coastal Research, SI 50 (Proceedings of the 9th International Coastal Symposium), 226 – 230. Gold Coast, Australia, ISSN 0749.0208 Large coastal and inland dunefields often consist of multiple generations defined by periods of stability and reactivation. Where earlier phases of aeolian activity are masked by subsequent deposition, continuous highresolution geophysical images help to reconstruct the history of landscape change. Ground-penetrating radar (GPR) profiles from relict Holocene dunes on the northern Curonian Spit, Lithuania reveal distinct contacts between older deposits (barrier-spit facies, older aeolian strata, paleosols) and overlying dune sands. Early stages of dune migration began prior to 6,000 years B.P. followed by several periods of stabilisation and subsequent reactivation. Parabolic and transverse dunes, some attaining heights of 40-60 m, have migrated to the east in response to westerly winds from the Baltic Sea. In several places, similar to a number of sites in Northern Europe, the upper sections of large dunes have been deflated leaving near-horizontal exposures where subsurface imaging extends the continuity of key stratigraphic horizons. Within dune sequences, oblique lateral accretion surfaces indicate the direction of earlier migration phases and exhibit distinct meso-scale geometries. In GPR images and shallow trenches, buried slipfaces have dip angles varying from 10-15o to 31-34o, the latter being similar to the angle of repose maintained by modern unvegetated dunes. A series of cores taken through sequences of stacked buried slipfaces show little visible variation in sediment properties with depth, suggesting that minor changes in texture, mineralogy and grain packing may be responsible for individual reflections in geophysical records. Occasionally, laterally extensive horizons enriched in heavy minerals produce prominent subsurface reflections and are indicative of periods of increased wind activity.","PeriodicalId":51078,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Coastal Research","volume":"64 18","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-03-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140365116","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"地球科学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
HEMER, M.A.; CHURCH, J.A. and HUNTER, J.R., 2007. Waves and climate change on the Australian coast, SI 50 (Proceedings of the 9th International Coastal Symposium), 432 – 437. Gold Coast, Australia, ISSN 0749.0208. There is a need to plan for the impacts of coastal erosion in response to climate change Australia-wide. A deepwater wave climatology of the Australian region is determined, which is required as boundary conditions for coastal wave models. Available wave data for the Australian region has been analysed to determine the mean climatology and interannual variability of mean significant wave height. Available data includes global wave model output from the ECMWF 45-yr re-analysis, ERA-40; corrected ERA-40 wave heights and the NOAA WaveWatch III operational wave model; satellite altimetry measurements; and data from a network of 30 waverider buoys surrounding the Australian coast located on the inner-mid continental shelf and some short-term deep-water wave-rider buoy deployments. These data have been analysed to determine the long-term mean, annual cycle and interannual variability of the mean Australian wave climate. Correlation with a number of climate indices in the Australian region indicate that southern ocean wind anomalies are a dominant mechanism responsible for variability of wave climate in the region. Correlation between monthly mean significant wave heights and the Southern Oscillation Index is significant along Australia’s eastern margin. ADDITIONAL INDEX WORDS: Climatology, waves, Australia
HEMER, M.A.; CHURCH, J.A. and HUNTER, J.R., 2007.Waves and climate change on the Australian coast, SI 50 (Proceedings of the 9th International Coastal Symposium), 432 - 437. Gold Coast, Australia, ISSN 0749.0208.澳大利亚黄金海岸，ISSN 0749.0208。有必要对澳大利亚全境因气候变化而造成的海岸侵蚀影响进行规划。确定了澳大利亚地区的深水波浪气候，作为沿岸波浪模式的边界条件。对澳大利亚地区现有的波浪数据进行了分析，以确定平均显著波高的平均气候和年际变 化。现有数据包括 ECMWF 45 年再分析的全球波浪模式输出结果，ERA-40；修正后的 ERA-40 波高和 NOAA WaveWatch III 业务波浪模式；卫星测高数据；澳大利亚沿海内、中大陆架周围 30 个乘波浮标网和一些短期深水乘波浮标布放的数据。对这些数据进行了分析，以确定澳大利亚平均波浪气候的长期平均值、年周期和年际变化。与澳大利亚地区一些气候指数的相关性表明，南部海洋风异常是造成该地区波浪气候变异的主要机制。在澳大利亚东缘，月平均显著波浪高度与南方涛动指数之间的相关性很大。补充索引词：气候学、波浪、澳大利亚
{"title":"Waves and Climate Change on the Australian Coast","authors":"M. Hemer, J. Hunter","doi":"10.2112/jcr-si50-083.1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2112/jcr-si50-083.1","url":null,"abstract":"HEMER, M.A.; CHURCH, J.A. and HUNTER, J.R., 2007. Waves and climate change on the Australian coast, SI 50 (Proceedings of the 9th International Coastal Symposium), 432 – 437. Gold Coast, Australia, ISSN 0749.0208. There is a need to plan for the impacts of coastal erosion in response to climate change Australia-wide. A deepwater wave climatology of the Australian region is determined, which is required as boundary conditions for coastal wave models. Available wave data for the Australian region has been analysed to determine the mean climatology and interannual variability of mean significant wave height. Available data includes global wave model output from the ECMWF 45-yr re-analysis, ERA-40; corrected ERA-40 wave heights and the NOAA WaveWatch III operational wave model; satellite altimetry measurements; and data from a network of 30 waverider buoys surrounding the Australian coast located on the inner-mid continental shelf and some short-term deep-water wave-rider buoy deployments. These data have been analysed to determine the long-term mean, annual cycle and interannual variability of the mean Australian wave climate. Correlation with a number of climate indices in the Australian region indicate that southern ocean wind anomalies are a dominant mechanism responsible for variability of wave climate in the region. Correlation between monthly mean significant wave heights and the Southern Oscillation Index is significant along Australia’s eastern margin. ADDITIONAL INDEX WORDS: Climatology, waves, Australia","PeriodicalId":51078,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Coastal Research","volume":"64 14","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-03-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140365140","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"地球科学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
ZHENG, J.-H., JENG, D.-S. and MASE, H., 2007. Sandy beach profile response to sloping seawalls: an experimental study. Journal of Coastal Research, SI 50 (Proceedings of the 9th International Coastal Symposium), 334 – 337. Gold Coast, Australia, ISSN 0749.0208. Seawalls are commonly used as a tool for coastal defence worldwide. Most previous studies have considered the case of vertical seawalls and descriptions of existing seawalls, rather than the influence of different designs of sloping seawalls on beach erosion. In this study, laboratory investigations of an undistorted moveable bed model were conducted to determine the resulting beach profile of artificial sandy beaches. In the experiments, three different sloping seawalls were considered under erosive wave conditions with a 50-year return period. The coast of Northern Jiangsu Province, China, is used as a case study. To simulate natural conditions, similarity criteria are developed assuming that the energy dissipation per unit volume along the beach profile is uniform and that the wave properties can be properly scaled by Froude criteria. Field surveys of beach profile changes due to the storm surge induced by Typhoon 9711 were taken to validate the experimental model and good agreements were attained. Spatial profile configurations were studied by examining dominant profile features such as the break point bar and the scour trough on the seawall-backed profiles. Experimental results provided a reference for the maintenance of artificial sandy beaches and the design of seawalls on the coast of Northern Jiangsu Province, China.
ZHENG, J.-H., JENG, D.-S. and MASE, H., 2007.Sandy beach profile response to sloping seawalls: an experimental study.Journal of Coastal Research, SI 50 (Proceedings of the 9th International Coastal Symposium), 334 - 337.澳大利亚黄金海岸，ISSN 0749.0208。海堤是全世界海岸防御的常用工具。以前的大多数研究都考虑了垂直海堤的情况和对现有海堤的描述，而没有考虑不同设计的斜 坡海堤对海滩侵蚀的影响。在这项研究中，对一个无扭曲的可移动海床模型进行了实验室调查，以确定人工沙滩的海滩轮廓。在实验中，考虑了 50 年一遇的侵蚀波条件下三种不同的倾斜海堤。以中国江苏省北部海岸为案例进行研究。为模拟自然条件，制定了相似性标准，假定沿海滩剖面单位体积的能量耗散是均匀的，且波浪特性可通过弗劳德标准适当缩放。为验证实验模型，对 9711 号台风引起的风暴潮造成的海滩剖面变化进行了实地调查，结果表明两者吻合良好。通过研究海堤背斜剖面上的断点条和冲刷槽等主要剖面特征，对空间剖面构造进行了研究。实验结果为中国苏北沿海人工沙滩的维护和海堤的设计提供了参考。
{"title":"Sandy Beach Profile Response to Sloping Seawalls: An Experimental Study","authors":"Jinhai Zheng, D. Jeng, H. Mase","doi":"10.2112/jcr-si50-065.1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2112/jcr-si50-065.1","url":null,"abstract":"ZHENG, J.-H., JENG, D.-S. and MASE, H., 2007. Sandy beach profile response to sloping seawalls: an experimental study. Journal of Coastal Research, SI 50 (Proceedings of the 9th International Coastal Symposium), 334 – 337. Gold Coast, Australia, ISSN 0749.0208. Seawalls are commonly used as a tool for coastal defence worldwide. Most previous studies have considered the case of vertical seawalls and descriptions of existing seawalls, rather than the influence of different designs of sloping seawalls on beach erosion. In this study, laboratory investigations of an undistorted moveable bed model were conducted to determine the resulting beach profile of artificial sandy beaches. In the experiments, three different sloping seawalls were considered under erosive wave conditions with a 50-year return period. The coast of Northern Jiangsu Province, China, is used as a case study. To simulate natural conditions, similarity criteria are developed assuming that the energy dissipation per unit volume along the beach profile is uniform and that the wave properties can be properly scaled by Froude criteria. Field surveys of beach profile changes due to the storm surge induced by Typhoon 9711 were taken to validate the experimental model and good agreements were attained. Spatial profile configurations were studied by examining dominant profile features such as the break point bar and the scour trough on the seawall-backed profiles. Experimental results provided a reference for the maintenance of artificial sandy beaches and the design of seawalls on the coast of Northern Jiangsu Province, China.","PeriodicalId":51078,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Coastal Research","volume":"63 22","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-03-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140365236","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"地球科学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
ABSTRACT O ZDEN , U.A. and T OPAL , T., 2007. Quality assessment of the armourstones for some Black Sea rubble mound breakwaters, Turkey. Journal of Coastal Research, SI 50 (Proceedings of the 9th International Coastal Symposium), 190 – 194. Gold Coast, Australia, ISSN 0749.0208 The Black Sea coastline is a hazardous region in Turkey, especially in winter, due to the dominant wave action. Therefore, rubble mound breakwaters used as ship shelters are vital structures, especially for the fishermen. Construction of the breakwater requires good quality, durable armourstones. Due to the nature of the rubble mound breakwaters, armourstones of various sizes and types are used in the construction of these structures. The deterioration of these armourstones with time may result in the failure of the breakwater. In this study, the quality and durability of the armourstones (mainly limestone, andesite and sandstone) used or to be used in three rubble mound breakwaters are investigated through field and laboratory studies. Among the studied armourstones, the three limestones are found to be good in long-term quality and durability. However, the sandstone displays poor performance, whereas the andesite is marginal. Both static durability index and CIRIA/CUR evaluation successfully predict the long-term durability of the armourstones.
ABSTRACT O ZDEN , U.A. and T OPAL , T., 2007.土耳其黑海碎石堆防波堤装甲石质量评估。Journal of Coastal Research, SI 50 (Proceedings of the 9th International Coastal Symposium), 190 - 194.澳大利亚黄金海岸，ISSN 0749.0208 黑海海岸线是土耳其的危险区域，尤其是在冬季，因为波浪作用占主导地位。因此，用作船舶庇护所的碎石堆防波堤是至关重要的建筑，尤其是对渔民而言。防波堤的建造需要优质耐用的铠装石。由于瓦砾堆防波堤的性质，在建造这些结构时需要使用各种尺寸和类型的铠装石。随着时间的推移，这些铠甲石的老化可能会导致防波堤失效。本研究通过实地考察和实验室研究，对三座碎石堆防波堤使用或将要使用的铠装石（主要是石灰岩、安山岩和砂岩）的质量和耐久性进行了调查。研究发现，在所研究的铠装石中，三种石灰岩的长期质量和耐久性较好。然而，砂岩的性能较差，而安山岩的性能较差。静态耐久性指数和 CIRIA/CUR 评估都能成功预测铠装石的长期耐久性。
{"title":"Quality Assessment of the Armourstones for Some Black Sea Rubble Mound Breakwaters, Turkey","authors":"U. A. Ozden, T. Topal","doi":"10.2112/jcr-si50-037.1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2112/jcr-si50-037.1","url":null,"abstract":"ABSTRACT O ZDEN , U.A. and T OPAL , T., 2007. Quality assessment of the armourstones for some Black Sea rubble mound breakwaters, Turkey. Journal of Coastal Research, SI 50 (Proceedings of the 9th International Coastal Symposium), 190 – 194. Gold Coast, Australia, ISSN 0749.0208 The Black Sea coastline is a hazardous region in Turkey, especially in winter, due to the dominant wave action. Therefore, rubble mound breakwaters used as ship shelters are vital structures, especially for the fishermen. Construction of the breakwater requires good quality, durable armourstones. Due to the nature of the rubble mound breakwaters, armourstones of various sizes and types are used in the construction of these structures. The deterioration of these armourstones with time may result in the failure of the breakwater. In this study, the quality and durability of the armourstones (mainly limestone, andesite and sandstone) used or to be used in three rubble mound breakwaters are investigated through field and laboratory studies. Among the studied armourstones, the three limestones are found to be good in long-term quality and durability. However, the sandstone displays poor performance, whereas the andesite is marginal. Both static durability index and CIRIA/CUR evaluation successfully predict the long-term durability of the armourstones.","PeriodicalId":51078,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Coastal Research","volume":"56 11","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-03-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140365248","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"地球科学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Anthropogenic Geomorphological Changes during the Last Century in the Kangneung Area along the East Coast of Korea","authors":"K.H. Choi, K.S. Yoon, J.H. Choi, Y.K. Shin, J.C. Lee, M.H. Suh, K. Munyikwa, K.H. Oh","doi":"10.2112/jcr-si50-184.1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2112/jcr-si50-184.1","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51078,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Coastal Research","volume":"39 4","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-03-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140365571","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"地球科学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
ALVES, F. L., SILVA, C. P. and PINTO, P., 2007. The Assessment of Coastal Zone Development at a Regional Level – the case study of the Portuguese Central Area. Journal of Coastal Research, SI 50 (Proceedings of the 9th International Coastal Symposium), 72 – 76. Gold Coast, Australia, ISSN 0749.0208 The Portuguese mainland coast is entirely covered by Coastal Zone Management Plans (CZMP). Those plans show that there are great opportunities and strategic values at the Portuguese Coast from the socio-economic and environmental point of view. Therefore, the coast is also under a huge pressure, as result of a fast growing development intensified since the mid 50’s of the 20th century. This situation can be exemplified at the Central Portugal Coastal Zone, classified as a highly vulnerable area to coastal erosion, with a strong demographic pressure and human activities associated. This trend does not show any marks of slowing down, increasing the level of vulnerability for coastal population and settlements. As also the risk, reinforced by sea level rise due to climate change. The methodology used for the assessment of this development was based on a large set of thematic indicators: environment, socioeconomic and governance. The results identify problematic areas and the priority actions to be taken by the central administration towards the application of Sustainable Development principles. This paper also points out the importance of the establishment of a National Coastal Observatory, for assessing and monitoring the development of the Portuguese Coastal Zone at a regional level. In addition is also enhanced the importance of these regional structures to the national Decision Support System (DSS). ADDITIONAL INDEX WORDS: decision support system, regional observatory, SDA Model
ALVES, F. L., SILVA, C. P. and PINTO, P., 2007.The Assessment of Coastal Zone Development at a Regional Level - the case study of the Portuguese Central Area.Journal of Coastal Research, SI 50 (Proceedings of the 9th International Coastal Symposium), 72 - 76.澳大利亚黄金海岸，ISSN 0749.0208 葡萄牙大陆海岸完全被海岸带管理计划（CZMP）所覆盖。这些计划表明，从社会经济和环境角度来看，葡萄牙海岸具有巨大的机遇和战略价值。因此，由于自 20 世纪 50 年代中期以来快速增长的发展，海岸也面临着巨大的压力。葡萄牙中部沿海地区就是这种情况的例证，该地区被列为极易受到海岸侵蚀影响的地区，人口压力大，人类活动频繁。这种趋势没有任何放缓的迹象，加剧了沿海居民和定居点的脆弱性。气候变化导致的海平面上升也加剧了这一风险。对这一发展进行评估所采用的方法以一大套专题指标为基础：环境、社会经济和治理。评估结果确定了存在问题的领域，以及中央行政部门在落实可持续发展原则方面应优先采取的行动。本文件还指出了建立国家沿海观察站的重要性，以便在区域层面评估和监测葡萄牙沿海地区的发展情况。此外，本文还强调了这些地区机构对国家决策支持系统（DSS）的重要性。附加索引词：决策支持系统、区域观测站、SDA 模型
{"title":"The Assessment of the Coastal Zone Development at a Regional Level – the Case study of Portugal Central Area","authors":"F. L. Alves, C. P. da Silva, P. Pinto","doi":"10.2112/jcr-si50-015.1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2112/jcr-si50-015.1","url":null,"abstract":"ALVES, F. L., SILVA, C. P. and PINTO, P., 2007. The Assessment of Coastal Zone Development at a Regional Level – the case study of the Portuguese Central Area. Journal of Coastal Research, SI 50 (Proceedings of the 9th International Coastal Symposium), 72 – 76. Gold Coast, Australia, ISSN 0749.0208 The Portuguese mainland coast is entirely covered by Coastal Zone Management Plans (CZMP). Those plans show that there are great opportunities and strategic values at the Portuguese Coast from the socio-economic and environmental point of view. Therefore, the coast is also under a huge pressure, as result of a fast growing development intensified since the mid 50’s of the 20th century. This situation can be exemplified at the Central Portugal Coastal Zone, classified as a highly vulnerable area to coastal erosion, with a strong demographic pressure and human activities associated. This trend does not show any marks of slowing down, increasing the level of vulnerability for coastal population and settlements. As also the risk, reinforced by sea level rise due to climate change. The methodology used for the assessment of this development was based on a large set of thematic indicators: environment, socioeconomic and governance. The results identify problematic areas and the priority actions to be taken by the central administration towards the application of Sustainable Development principles. This paper also points out the importance of the establishment of a National Coastal Observatory, for assessing and monitoring the development of the Portuguese Coastal Zone at a regional level. In addition is also enhanced the importance of these regional structures to the national Decision Support System (DSS). ADDITIONAL INDEX WORDS: decision support system, regional observatory, SDA Model","PeriodicalId":51078,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Coastal Research","volume":"24 2","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-03-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140366033","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"地球科学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
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