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The Management of Beach Carrying Capacity: The case of northern Portugal. 海滩承载能力管理:葡萄牙北部的案例。
4区 地球科学 Q3 Earth and Planetary Sciences Pub Date : 2024-03-29 DOI: 10.2112/jcr-si50-027.1
C. Silva, F. Alves, R. Rocha
SILVA, C. P., ALVES, F. and ROCHA, R.,, 2007. The Management of Beach Carrying Capacity: The case of northern Portugal. Journal of Coastal Research, SI 50 (Proceedings of the 9th International Coastal Symposium), 135 – 139. Gold Coast, Australia, ISSN 0749.0208 The rapid growth of coastal tourism that has been seen in the last 40 years is frequently described as one of the major reasons for the development of these areas and also as responsible for many current coastal problems. The beaches perform, in this context, a fundamental role where the issues related to planning and management are increasingly more important when it comes to an implementation of a sustainable development philosophy. In these circumstances, concepts such as carrying capacity need to be used in a careful way. In Portugal, where coastal tourism plays a major part for the national economy, the management of beaches is crucial for maintaining their quality and therefore continuing to attract tourists. Since the 1990s, with the application of Coastal Zone Management Plans to the whole Portuguese coast, beach plans are now required. In those plans various parameters are considered, from the type and location of equipment and parking lots, to the definition of beach carrying capacity. This paper explores the results of the implementation of these plans to the beaches of northern Portugal. This part of the coast is very dynamic with high erosion rates. Some of the interventions from the Plans changed part of the characteristics of the beaches making it necessary, in some cases, to re-calculate the carrying capacities that were initially proposed, bringing new challenges to their management. This paper aims to stress the validity of the carrying capacity concept as applied to beaches, taking into account the need to use the concept in a flexible and dynamic way.
SILVA, C. P., ALVES, F. and ROCHA, R., 2007.海滩承载能力管理:葡萄牙北部案例。Journal of Coastal Research, SI 50 (Proceedings of the 9th International Coastal Symposium), 135 - 139.澳大利亚黄金海岸,ISSN 0749.0208 过去 40 年沿海旅游业的迅速发展,经常被认为是这些地区发展的主要原因之一,也是当前 许多沿海问题的原因。在这种情况下,海滩就扮演了一个基本的角色,当涉及到可持续发展理念的实施时,与规划和管理相关的问题就变得越来越重要。在这种情况下,需要谨慎使用承载能力等概念。在葡萄牙,沿海旅游业在国民经济中占有重要地位,海滩的管理对于保持海滩质量,从而继续吸引游客至关重要。自 20 世纪 90 年代以来,随着海岸带管理计划在葡萄牙整个海岸的实施,现在需要制定海滩计划。这些规划考虑了各种参数,从设备和停车场的类型和位置,到海滩承载能力的定义。本文探讨了葡萄牙北部海滩实施这些计划的结果。这部分沿海地区非常活跃,侵蚀率很高。计划中的一些干预措施改变了海滩的部分特征,在某些情况下,有必要重新计算最初提出的承载能力,这给海滩管理带来了新的挑战。本文旨在强调适用于海滩的承载能力概念的有效性,同时考虑到以灵活和动态的方式使用这一概念的必要性。
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引用次数: 51
Comparison of two wave models for Gold Coast, Australia 澳大利亚黄金海岸两种波浪模型的比较
4区 地球科学 Q3 Earth and Planetary Sciences Pub Date : 2024-03-29 DOI: 10.2112/jcr-si50-061.1
D. Strauss, R. Tomlinson
STRAUSS, D., MIRFERENDESK, H. and TOMLINSON, R., 2007. Comparison of two wave models for Gold Coast, Australia. Journal of Coastal Research, SI 50 (Proceedings of the 9th International Coastal Symposium), 312 – 316. Gold Coast, Australia, ISBN 0749.0208 Managing hazards associated with shoreline responses to extreme events and the provision of safe boating access is an ongoing concern for coastal authorities. The open sandy coastline of Gold Coast city is a wave dominated coast with a highly variable wave climate and a narrow continental shelf thus experiencing substantial variations in long-shore transport rates. Detailed wave transformation information is central to further investigations of sediment transport processes as complex bathymetry associated with trained river entrances and rocky headlands causes localised interruptions to the overall northward littoral drift. Temporal variations in wave energy are driven by a wide range of swell direction and size while spatial variations occur as a result of the strong refraction during particular swell events. This paper presents a comparison of two near shore wave models of the region using MIKE 21 and SWAN. The transformation of waves arriving from offshore is simulated using the models for selected time series of wave parameters. The parameterized boundary conditions are derived from NOAA Wave Watch III global wave model data. Model output is compared with observed data from existing wave recording buoys at Gold Coast Seaway and Point Lookout. The inclusion of wind in the modelling undertaken did not improve the models’ accuracy and winds in excess of 10 ms -1 led to an over-estimation of significant wave height while increasing the processing time. Sheltering of the near-shore site during southerly swell conditions was well-represented by the modelling.
STRAUSS, D., MIRFERENDESK, H. and TOMLINSON, R., 2007.C. The World Bank.Journal of Coastal Research, SI 50 (Proceedings of the 9th International Coastal Symposium), 312 - 316.The open sandy coastline of Gold Coast, Australia, ISBN 0749.0208 Managing hazards associated with shoreline responses to extreme events and the provision of safe boating access is an ongoing concern for coastal authorities.黄金海岸市的开阔沙质海岸线是以波浪为主的海岸,波浪气候多变,大陆架狭窄,因此长 海岸传输速率变化很大。详细的波浪变化信息对于进一步研究沉积物迁移过程至关重要,因为与经过训练的河流入口和岩石岬角相关的复杂水深会导致整体北向沿岸漂移的局部中断。波浪能量的时间变化受各种涌浪方向和大小的影响,而空间变化则是特定涌浪事件中强烈折射的结果。本文利用 MIKE 21 和 SWAN 对该地区的两个近岸波浪模型进行了比较。根据选定的波浪参数时间序列,使用模型模拟了从近海到达的波浪的变化。参数化边界条件来自 NOAA Wave Watch III 全球波浪模型数据。模型输出结果与黄金海岸航道和岗哨观测站现有波浪记录浮标的观测数据进行了比较。将风力纳入建模并没有提高模型的准确性,风力超过 10 毫秒-1 会导致过高估计显著波高,同时增加处理时间。模型充分反映了在南向涌浪条件下近岸地点的遮蔽情况。
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引用次数: 37
Coastal morphodynamics and prehistoric human occupation, County Donegal, NW Ireland 爱尔兰西北部多尼戈尔郡的海岸形态动力学与史前人类活动
4区 地球科学 Q3 Earth and Planetary Sciences Pub Date : 2024-03-29 DOI: 10.2112/jcr-si50-021.1
J. Knight, H. Burningham
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引用次数: 0
Direct Measurement of Bottom Shear Stress under Water Waves 直接测量水波作用下的底部剪应力
4区 地球科学 Q3 Earth and Planetary Sciences Pub Date : 2024-03-29 DOI: 10.2112/jcr-si50-205.1
Z. You, B. Yin
Wave-induced bottom shear stress is one of the most important parameters in modelling of wave hydrodynamics and coastal sediment transport. A new type of shear plate has been successfully developed to measure instantaneous wave bottom shear stress in a laboratory wave flume. The shear plate measures instantaneous horizontal force by applying the Wheatstone half bridge circuit to detect a tiny horizontal movement of the shear plate. There are about 280 individual test runs carried out over one smooth bed and two roughened beds, respectively. In each test run, instantaneous bottom shear stress was measured at a sampling rate of 10 Hz for about 10 minutes. The measured total horizontal force, which consists of wave-induced bottom shear stress and hydrodynamic pressure, is found linearly proportional to wave height in both laminar and turbulent flows. The wave friction factors measured on the smooth bed are shown to agree excellently with the theoretical values derived in laminar boundary layer flow, but those on the rough beds are affected by the bed roughness length estimated. An empirical formula is also proposed to compute the wave bottom shear stress.
波浪引起的底部剪应力是波浪流体力学和沿岸沉积物输运模拟中最重要的参数之 一。已成功开发出一种新型剪力板,用于测量实验室波浪水槽中的瞬时波浪底部剪应力。剪力板通过惠斯通半桥电路检测剪力板的微小水平运动来测量瞬时水平力。在一个光滑床层和两个粗糙床层上分别进行了约 280 次单独测试。在每次试验中,以 10 Hz 的采样率测量瞬时底部剪应力,持续约 10 分钟。在层流和紊流中,测得的总水平力(由波浪引起的底部剪应力和水动力压力组成)与波浪高度成线性比例。在光滑河床上测量到的波浪摩擦因数与层流边界层流动中得出的理论值非常吻合,但在粗糙河床上测量到的波浪摩擦因数受到河床粗糙度长度估计值的影响。此外,还提出了计算波底剪应力的经验公式。
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引用次数: 11
A Laboratory Study of Dilute Suspension Mud Floc Characteristics in an Oscillatory Diffusive Turbulent Flow 振荡扩散湍流中稀悬浮泥絮凝体特性的实验室研究
4区 地球科学 Q3 Earth and Planetary Sciences Pub Date : 2024-03-29 DOI: 10.2112/jcr-si50-207.1
N. Gratiot, A. Manning
GRATIOT, N. and MANNING, A. J., 2007. A Laboratory Study of Dilute Suspension Mud Floc Characteristics in an Oscillatory Diffusive Turbulent Flow, SI 50 (Proceedings of the 9th International Coastal Symposium), 1142 – 1146. Gold Coast, Australia, ISSN 0749.0208 To further the understanding of mud flocculation the COSINUS project funded a series of laboratory experiments whereby dilute mud suspensions were sheared (between 3.7 s -1 - about 20 s -1 ) with nominal concentrations ranging from 200-600 mg l -1 , within a Plexiglas tank, using an oscillating grid. The floc properties were then examined using the LabSFLOC instrument. Results showed that for low concentrations of natural Tamar estuary (UK) mud exposed to high shear, the largest flocs were slightly less than the Kolmogorov eddy size of about 220 μm. The high shear resulted in all flocs having settling velocities of only 0.6 mm s -1 . Lowering the shear for the same mud improved flocculation, and raised the macrofloc settling velocity to 1.8 mm s -1 . This translated into macroflocs constituting 64% of the floc mass, and 80% of the mass settling flux. In contrast, low concentrations of natural Gironde mud displayed significantly faster settling macroflocs at each shear increment than Tamar mud, but the largest flocs were of the same order as the Tamar mud flocs. The suspended matter distribution showed the macroflocs only constituted 20-30% of the particulate mass. However, their faster settling rate transformed the low macrofloc mass into 62% of the settling flux. The removal of organic matter from the Gironde mud resulted in few flocs exceeding 125 μm in diameter.
GRATIOT, N. and MANNING, A. J., 2007.在振荡扩散湍流中稀释悬浮泥絮凝特征的实验室研究》,SI 50(第 9 届国际沿海研讨会论文集),1142 - 1146。澳大利亚黄金海岸,ISSN 0749.0208 为进一步了解泥浆絮凝,COSINUS 项目资助了一系列实验室实验,在有机玻璃槽中使用振荡栅格对稀泥悬浮液进行剪切(3.7 秒 -1 - 约 20 秒 -1 之间),标称浓度范围为 200-600 毫克升 -1 。然后使用 LabSFLOC 仪器检测絮凝物的特性。结果表明,对于暴露在高剪切力下的低浓度天然塔马河口(英国)淤泥,最大的絮体略小于约 220 μm 的柯尔莫哥洛夫涡流尺寸。高剪切导致所有絮凝物的沉降速度仅为 0.6 mm s -1 。对于相同的泥浆,降低剪切力可改善絮凝效果,并将大型絮凝体的沉降速度提高到 1.8 mm s -1 。这意味着大絮体占絮体质量的 64%,占沉降通量的 80%。相比之下,低浓度天然吉伦特泥在每个剪切增量下的大絮凝体沉降速度明显快于添马舰泥,但最大絮凝体的数量级与添马舰泥絮凝体相同。悬浮物分布显示,大絮凝体只占颗粒质量的 20-30%。然而,它们较快的沉降速度将较低的大絮凝体质量转化为 62% 的沉降通量。去除吉伦特淤泥中的有机物后,直径超过 125 μm 的絮体很少。
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引用次数: 12
Dynamics and Dispersion in the Coastal Boundary Layer off Coffs Harbour in Eastern Australia 澳大利亚东部科夫斯港沿海边界层的动力学和扩散
4区 地球科学 Q3 Earth and Planetary Sciences Pub Date : 2024-03-29 DOI: 10.2112/jcr-si50-158.1
Tim Pritchard, C. Holden, Randall Lee, K. Black, T. Healy
PRITCHARD, T.R., HOLDEN, C, LEE, R.S., BLACK, K.P. and HEALY, T. 2007. Dynamics and Dispersion in the Coastal Boundary Layer off Coffs Harbour in Eastern Australia. Journal of Coastal Research, SI 50 (Proceedings of the 9th International Coastal Symposium), 848 – 857. Gold Coast, Australia, ISSN 0749.0208 Time series analysis and model simulations defined dynamics of coastal boundary layer formation off Coffs Harbour based on four deployed acoustic Doppler current (ADCP) meters and wind data from Coffs Harbour airport. Variance preserving spectra revealed peak energies at 7.8, 3.9 and 2.5 days plus ~24 and ~12 hours consistent with dominant forcing by winds. At inshore sites the highest energy levels occurred at the surface and decrease uniformly with depth at all frequencies with local peaks centred at exactly 24 hours, corresponding to peak local wind energy. In contrast, offshore sites showed depth dependency in the peak spectral energy with evidence of regional influences and wave-guide effects due to density stratification. Hydrodynamic simulations using the 3-dimensional explicit finite difference model 3DD revealed local bathymetric controls on circulation. A coastal boundary layer, delineated by a shear zone ~2km offshore in the lee of Corambirra Point, south of Coffs Harbour, was associated with formation of transient eddies. Model simulations and independent ADCP data identified 3 dimensional flow structures typified by clockwise rotation of flows down through the water column at all sites except for the quiescent, shallow water site in the headland wake south of Corambirra Point. The area south of Corambirra Point was predisposed to clockwise eddy rotation while offshore flows were generally shore-parallel. Pollutant dispersal was shown to be significantly less within this coastal boundary layer thus highlighting the need to consider effects of coastal boundary layers when locating discharges such as ocean outfalls.
PRITCHARD, T.R., HOLDEN, C, LEE, R.S., BLACK, K.P. and HEALY, T. 2007.Dynamics and Dispersion in the Coastal Boundary Layer off Coffs Harbour in Eastern Australia.Journal of Coastal Research, SI 50 (Proceedings of the 9th International Coastal Symposium), 848 - 857.澳大利亚黄金海岸,ISSN 0749.0208 时间序列分析和模型模拟,根据四个部署的声学多普勒海流(ADCP)计和科 夫斯港机场的风力数据,确定了科夫斯港沿岸边界层形成的动力学。方差保存谱显示,7.8、3.9 和 2.5 天加上 ~24 和 ~12 小时的峰值能量与风的主要作用相一致。在近岸站点,最高能量水平出现在海面上,并且在所有频率上都随深度均匀下降,局部峰值正好集中在 24 小时,与当地风能峰值相对应。与此相反,近海站点的频谱能量峰值与深度有关,表明密度分层产生了区域影响和波导效应。利用三维显式有限差分模型 3DD 进行的水动力模拟显示,局部水深对环流有控制作用。在科 夫斯港南部科兰比拉角附近,由离岸约 2 公里的剪切带划定的沿岸边界层与瞬态漩涡的形 成有关。模型模拟和独立的 ADCP 数据确定了三维流动结构,其典型特征是水柱中的水流向下顺时针旋转,科兰比拉角以南岬角唤醒区的静止浅水区除外。科兰比拉角以南的区域倾向于顺时针方向的涡旋,而近海水流一般与海岸平行。在这一沿岸边界层内,污染物的扩散量明显减少,这突出表明,在确定排污口(如 海洋排污口)位置时,需要考虑沿岸边界层的影响。
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引用次数: 5
The value of coastal recreational resources: a case study approach to examine the value of recreational surfing to specific locales 沿海娱乐资源的价值:以案例研究的方法考察休闲冲浪对特定地区的价值
4区 地球科学 Q3 Earth and Planetary Sciences Pub Date : 2024-03-29 DOI: 10.2112/jcr-si50-003.1
N. Lazarow
LAZAROW, N., 2007. The value of coastal recreational resources: a case study approach to examine the value of recreational surfing to specific locales. Journal of Coastal Research, SI 50 (Proceedings of the 9th International Coastal Symposium), 12 – 20. Gold Coast, Australia, ISSN 0749.0208 Surfing is a major recreational and economic activity involving intimate human interaction with diverse coastal environments and is expanding both in intensity in traditional locations, as well as in reach into new environments often in the developing world. The value of surfing to both Australia’s and the global economy has grown significantly over the past three decades. This combined with the significant growth in participation and rising popularity of surfing and surfing culture in many countries, means that the importance of the economic and social value of surfing to various regions cannot be understated. While there is a growing literature on the value of surfing tourism, especially in the South-East Asian region and of proposed artificial surfing reefs, there is little documented evidence of the value of recreational surfing in more traditional locations such as Australia and the USA, where it has been estimated that over two-million Australians and two-and-a-half million Americans surf on a regular basis. This paper presents findings from a three-year study using proven economic methodologies as well as those from the other social sciences to collect data on the market and non-market value of surfing at two locations in Australia. The findings demonstrate the significant economic, social and cultural importance of surfing amenity to specific locales, including the need to consider any negative impacts on surf breaks and the environment that may occur as a result of development, coastal planning and protection works.
Lazarow, N., 2007.The value of coastal recreational resources: a case study approach to examine the value of recreational surfing to specific locales.Journal of Coastal Research, SI 50 (Proceedings of the 9th International Coastal Symposium), 12 - 20.澳大利亚黄金海岸,ISSN 0749.0208 冲浪是一项重要的娱乐和经济活动,涉及人类与各种沿海环境的密切互动,在传统 地区的强度不断扩大,并扩展到发展中国家的新环境中。在过去的三十年里,冲浪运动对澳大利亚和全球经济的价值都有了显著增长。再加上许多国家参与冲浪活动的人数大幅增加,冲浪运动和冲浪文化的受欢迎程度不断提高,这意味着冲浪运动对各地区经济和社会价值的重要性不容低估。尽管有关冲浪旅游价值的文献越来越多,特别是在东南亚地区和拟议中的人工冲浪礁方面,但有关澳大利亚和美国等传统地区休闲冲浪价值的文献证据却很少,据估计,澳大利亚和美国分别有 200 多万人和 250 多万人经常冲浪。本文介绍了一项为期三年的研究结果,该研究采用了成熟的经济学方法以及其他社会科学方法,在澳大利亚的两个地方收集了有关冲浪的市场和非市场价值的数据。研究结果表明,冲浪对特定地区具有重要的经济、社会和文化意义,包括需要考虑开发、海岸规划和保护工程可能对冲浪区和环境造成的负面影响。
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引用次数: 68
Wave Action on a Mild Sloped Offshore Breakwater for the Protection of a Promenade 用于保护海滨长廊的缓坡近海防波堤上的波浪作用
4区 地球科学 Q3 Earth and Planetary Sciences Pub Date : 2024-03-29 DOI: 10.2112/jcr-si50-049.1
W. Al-Nassar, S. Neelamani, K. Al-Banaa, A. Al-Ragum, J. Ljubic
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引用次数: 0
Fetch-Limited Barrier Islands of Spencer Gulf, South Australia 南澳大利亚斯宾塞湾的纬度受限屏障岛
4区 地球科学 Q3 Earth and Planetary Sciences Pub Date : 2024-03-29 DOI: 10.2112/jcr-si50-168.1
D. A. Lewis, J. Cooper, O.H. Pilkey, A. D. Short
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引用次数: 0
Physical Study of the Southern Coastal Waters of the Caspian Sea, off Babolsar, Mazandaran in Iran. 伊朗马赞达兰 Babolsar 附近里海南部沿海水域的物理研究。
4区 地球科学 Q3 Earth and Planetary Sciences Pub Date : 2024-03-29 DOI: 10.2112/jcr-si50-107.1
N. H. Zaker, P. Ghaffari, S. Jamshidi
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引用次数: 2
期刊
Journal of Coastal Research
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