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Vouwo mud dye: A material, microbiological and cultural approach to researching sustainable textile dyes 武窝泥染料:从材料、微生物和培养的角度研究可持续纺织染料
IF 2.2 4区 工程技术 Q3 CHEMISTRY, APPLIED Pub Date : 2025-04-20 DOI: 10.1111/cote.12824
Laurence Douny, José Ignacio Hernández Lobato, Shahrouz Amini, Adama Séré, Salif Sawadogo, Peter Fratzl, Regine Hengge

Coloration using soil-based dyes is a fast-growing subject of enquiry in fibres and textile surface design, with pigments and microbes involved in their production being extensively researched. Dyeing techniques using this rich natural resource have also been integral to long-standing textile traditions worldwide. Grounded in an anthropological study of the dyeing practice of Marka-Dafing hunters in Burkina Faso, West Africa, this paper presents an analysis of the coloration processes in vouwo, or mud dye, used for hunting and ceremonial garments. It highlights complex biochemical and microbiological reactions occurring in a dyeing experiment curated by dyers throughout an 18-month-long fermentation process. The authors propose an interdisciplinary approach to the study of vouwo that combines (i) detailed examination and documentation of craft practice with (ii) a materials science-based analysis of the iron ore used and of the resulting brown colour shades and (iii) a microbiological description of the multiple roles of bacteria and their complex interactions with plants such as Acacia nilotica in the dyeing process. By underlining the material, biochemical, microbiological and medicinal properties of vouwo dye, our study of dyeing with soil as a natural colourant calls attention to a potential role of traditional craft knowledge in dialogue with modern science for the future production of more sustainable and health-promoting dyes.

在纤维和纺织品表面设计中,使用土壤染料进行着色是一个快速发展的研究课题,对其生产过程中涉及的色素和微生物进行了广泛的研究。利用这种丰富的自然资源的染色技术也是世界范围内悠久的纺织传统的组成部分。基于对西非布基纳法索马卡-达明猎人染色实践的人类学研究,本文分析了用于狩猎和仪式服装的vouwo或泥染料的着色过程。它强调了在染色实验中发生的复杂的生化和微生物反应,这些反应是由染料师在长达18个月的发酵过程中策划的。作者提出了一种跨学科的方法来研究乌沃,它结合了(i)对工艺实践的详细检查和记录,(ii)对所使用的铁矿石和由此产生的棕色深浅进行基于材料科学的分析,以及(iii)对细菌的多种作用及其在染色过程中与尼罗刺槐(Acacia nilotica)等植物的复杂相互作用的微生物描述。通过强调武沃染料的材料、生物化学、微生物学和药用特性,我们对土壤作为天然着色剂进行染色的研究,呼吁人们关注传统工艺知识在与现代科学对话中的潜在作用,以生产更可持续和促进健康的染料。
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引用次数: 0
Optimisation of purple dyeing with Mexican cochineal in cotton with multivariate analysis and the response surface method 用多变量分析和响应面法优化墨西哥胭脂虫对棉花紫色的染色工艺
IF 2.2 4区 工程技术 Q3 CHEMISTRY, APPLIED Pub Date : 2025-03-25 DOI: 10.1111/cote.12822
Ernesto Olvera-Quintanar, Jimena García-Lapuente, Ahmed Cruz-Moreno G., Everardo Tapia-Mendoza

This study aims to optimise the dyeing process of cotton fabrics using Mexican cochineal (Dactylopius coccus Costa). The objective is to obtain purple hues through the design of experiments and by using multivariate analysis. Plackett–Burman experimental designs and the response surface method were used to systematically optimise the dyeing parameters. The meta-mordanting process was the most critical factor affecting the achievement of purple hues, followed by cochineal concentration, toner concentration and dyeing time. The multivariate analysis of principal component analysis with discriminant analysis was applied to determine the significance of washing methods and toner types. Various traditional Mexican toners, including tequesquite, cardon and ash, were evaluated. The washing method was not significant, while the toner type showed a tendency towards clustering, indicating a significant effect on the dyeing process. The most recommended method was the one using tequesquite, with 20% on weight of fabric (owf) cochineal, 5% owf toner and a dyeing time of 66 minutes. Cardon was recommended as a viable toner alternative. This research provides a reproducible method for achieving desired purple shades, preserving traditional dyeing techniques from Mexican indigenous cultures.

本研究旨在优化墨西哥胭脂虫属(Dactylopius coccus Costa)对棉织物的染色工艺。目的是通过实验设计和使用多变量分析来获得紫色色调。采用Plackett-Burman实验设计和响应面法对染色参数进行了系统优化。超媒染法是影响紫染效果的最关键因素,其次是胭脂虫浓度、墨粉浓度和染色时间。采用主成分分析和判别分析相结合的多变量分析,确定洗涤方法和调色剂类型的显著性。各种传统的墨西哥调色剂,包括tequesquite, cardon和ash,进行了评估。洗涤方式不显著,色粉类型呈聚类趋势,对染色工艺影响显著。最推荐的染色方法是使用tequesquite,用20%的织物重量(owf)胭脂虫粉,5%的调色剂,染色时间为66分钟。Cardon被推荐为可行的调色剂替代品。这项研究提供了一种可复制的方法来实现所需的紫色色调,保留了墨西哥土著文化的传统染色技术。
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引用次数: 0
Study on the properties of polyaniline composite TiO2 electrochromic materials 聚苯胺复合TiO2电致变色材料的性能研究
IF 2.2 4区 工程技术 Q3 CHEMISTRY, APPLIED Pub Date : 2025-03-25 DOI: 10.1111/cote.12787
Jian Xiong, Yue Wu, Chu Xu, Shengya Chen, Liufen Xia, Yogendra Kumar Mishra

Polyaniline (PANI) composite is an effective way to improve the electrochromic properties of inorganic materials. However, there is still a lack of systematic research on the electrochromic properties of PANI composite titanium dioxide (TiO2) materials. In this work, TiO2 thin films with different PANI composite contents (PANI-TiO2) were prepared by deposition method combined with hydrothermal method. The effects of different composite contents of PANI on the morphology and electrochromic properties of the samples were investigated using X-ray diffraction (XRD), Raman, field emission scanning electron microscopy (FESEM), high-resolution transmission electron microscopy (HR-TEM) and electrochemical methods. It was found that a certain amount of PANI composite could enhance the electrochromic properties of TiO2 electrochromic materials. In this study, the 5% PANI-TiO2 film has the best electrochromic performance, the ion diffusion coefficient of 5% PANI-TiO2 composite film is 7.42 × 10−10 cm2/s, the optical modulation increased by 54.2%, and the bleached and coloured switching time are 19.98 and 33.45 s, respectively, which all indicate that the appropriate amount of PANI composite can enhance the electrochromic performance of TiO2 materials. These results show that the appropriate amount of PANI composite is indeed as an effective way to optimise the electrochromic performance of TiO2.

聚苯胺(PANI)复合材料是改善无机材料电致变色性能的有效途径。然而,对于聚苯胺复合二氧化钛(TiO2)材料的电致变色性能,目前还缺乏系统的研究。本文采用沉积法与水热法相结合的方法制备了不同聚苯胺复合含量的TiO2薄膜(PANI-TiO2)。采用x射线衍射(XRD)、拉曼光谱(Raman)、场发射扫描电镜(FESEM)、高分辨率透射电镜(hrtem)和电化学方法研究了聚苯胺复合含量对样品形貌和电致变色性能的影响。结果表明,加入一定量的聚苯胺可以提高TiO2电致变色材料的电致变色性能。本研究中,5%的PANI-TiO2薄膜具有最佳的电致变色性能,5%的PANI-TiO2复合薄膜的离子扩散系数为7.42 × 10−10 cm2/s,光调制提高了54.2%,漂白和变色切换时间分别为19.98 s和33.45 s,这些都表明适量的PANI复合材料可以提高TiO2材料的电致变色性能。这些结果表明,适量的聚苯胺复合材料确实是优化TiO2电致变色性能的有效途径。
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引用次数: 0
The plasticisation model of dye diffusion: Part 4 染料扩散的塑化模型:第四部分
IF 2.2 4区 工程技术 Q3 CHEMISTRY, APPLIED Pub Date : 2025-03-24 DOI: 10.1111/cote.12816
Stephen M. Burkinshaw

Previously published data reported for the temperature dependency of the diffusion of an organic acid within PA 6 film, as well as the desorption of three acid dyes from dyed nylon 66 fabric, diffusion of an acid dye within nylon 6 film and the adsorption of a sulphur dye onto nylon 66 fabric, over a diverse range of application/washing/dyeing temperatures and conditions, were re-evaluated using the Williams-Landel-Ferry (WLF) equation. As the experimentally observed diffusion/desorption/adsorption of the organic acid, each of the anionic dyes and the sulphur dye within/from/onto each of the respective polyamide substrates adhered to a WLF relationship, the thermally activated diffusivity of the various anionic species is governed by the thermally regulated structural relaxation times of the water-saturated, water-swollen, water-plasticised, poly(ε-caprolactam) or poly(hexamethylene) adipamide macromolecules. The plasticisation model of dye diffusion seems to offer a reasonable explanation of the observed temperature dependency of the diffusivity of the simple organic acid, each of the four acid dyes and the sulphur dye within both types of aliphatic polyamide.

在不同的应用/洗涤/染色温度和条件下,使用Williams-Landel-Ferry (WLF)方程重新评估了有机酸在pa6膜内扩散的温度依赖性,以及三种酸性染料从染色尼龙66织物上的解吸,酸性染料在尼龙6膜内的扩散和硫染料在尼龙66织物上的吸附。由于实验观察到有机酸的扩散/解吸/吸附,每种阴离子染料和硫染料在各自的聚酰胺底物内/从/到每个聚酰胺底物上都遵循WLF关系,各种阴离子的热激活扩散率由水饱和、水膨胀、水塑性、聚(ε-己内酰胺)或聚(六亚乙烯)己二酰胺大分子的热调节结构弛豫时间决定。染料扩散的塑化模型似乎为观察到的简单有机酸、四种酸性染料中的每一种染料和两种脂肪族聚酰胺中的硫染料的扩散率的温度依赖性提供了合理的解释。
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引用次数: 0
Chemical constitutions in the Colour Index™: A century of colourant classification 颜色指数™中的化学成分:一个世纪的着色剂分类
IF 2 4区 工程技术 Q3 CHEMISTRY, APPLIED Pub Date : 2025-03-23 DOI: 10.1111/cote.12819
Andrew Towns

This article details how the Colour Index™ (CI) system categorises and unambiguously labels commercial dyes and pigments based upon their chemical constitutions. It outlines the current process by which colourants that are new to the market find a place within CI and acquire generic identifiers. The contents of this paper will enable both experienced users of CI and those who are unfamiliar with the resource to gain not only a detailed understanding of its classification system, but also a deeper appreciation of what colourant designations signify and how they are correctly utilised.

本文详细介绍了颜色指数™(CI)系统如何根据其化学成分对商业染料和颜料进行分类和明确标记。它概述了当前的过程,通过该过程,新进入市场的着色剂在CI中找到了一席之地,并获得了通用标识符。本文的内容将使有经验的CI用户和不熟悉该资源的用户不仅能够详细了解其分类系统,而且能够更深入地了解颜色名称的含义以及如何正确使用它们。
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引用次数: 0
Investigation into the eco-friendly, simultaneous tanning and reactive dyeing of leather 皮革的环保、同步鞣和活性染色研究
IF 2.2 4区 工程技术 Q3 CHEMISTRY, APPLIED Pub Date : 2025-03-16 DOI: 10.1111/cote.12818
Darryl M. Cassingham, Georg Roentgen

The leather industry is facing increasing environmental pressure, with ongoing scrutiny of its chemical usage, processing conditions, end-of-life criteria and CO2e footprint. This paper presents a disruptive technology that delivers a groundbreaking approach to addressing these immediate challenges for the leather industry. The patented Avicuero system provides a “green” technology enabling simultaneous tanning and dyeing, which is completely free of metals, aldehydes and bisphenols, with the resultant leather offering good hydrothermal stability combined with excellent depth of shade and colour fastness properties. Analyses of the dyeing process demonstrated excellent penetration of the leather substrate and near complete exhaustion and fixation of the reactive colourants (based on halotriazine and sulphatoethyl sulphone chemistry), leading to excellent colour strength for the Avicuero Black SL tanned leather, with superior fastness performance relative to competitive tanning technologies. In addition, the multifunctional reactive dye/collagen crosslinking imparted effective tanning to the leather with a hydrothermal shrinkage temperature of 77°C. Further technical advantages are the significant reductions in water and energy requirements (reduced machine processing time and processing temperatures) compared with current industrial technologies, and continuing to use current standard tannery processing equipment.

皮革行业正面临着越来越大的环境压力,对其化学品使用、加工条件、报废标准和二氧化碳排放量的审查正在进行。本文介绍了一种颠覆性技术,提供了一种开创性的方法来解决皮革行业面临的这些直接挑战。获得专利的Avicuero系统提供了一种“绿色”技术,使鞣制和染色同时进行,完全不含金属、醛类和双酚类,所得到的皮革具有良好的水热稳定性,并具有出色的深浅色调和色牢度特性。对染色工艺的分析表明,该染色工艺对皮革基材具有良好的渗透性,活性着色剂(基于卤化三嗪和磺化乙砜化学成分)几乎完全消耗和固定,从而使Avicuero Black SL鞣革具有出色的颜色强度,与竞争对手的鞣革技术相比,具有优越的牢度性能。此外,在水热收缩温度为77℃的条件下,多功能活性染料/胶原交联使皮革鞣制效果显著。与当前的工业技术相比,进一步的技术优势是显著减少了水和能源需求(减少了机器加工时间和加工温度),并继续使用当前标准的制革厂加工设备。
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引用次数: 0
Effect of bleaching treatments on wool fabrics analysed via attenuated total reflection Fourier Transform–infrared spectroscopy 用衰减全反射傅里叶变换红外光谱分析了漂白处理对羊毛织物的影响
IF 2.2 4区 工程技术 Q3 CHEMISTRY, APPLIED Pub Date : 2025-03-02 DOI: 10.1111/cote.12814
Ayumi Isaka, Shinji Ando, Akio Kuzuhara

To investigate the effects of three commercial bleaching agents (hydrogen peroxide, sodium percarbonate and sodium hypochlorite) on textile products, the structural changes and chemical damage caused by these bleaching agents on wool fabrics were quantitatively characterised using attenuated total reflection Fourier Transform–infrared (ATR-FTIR) spectroscopy. A comparison of the spectral changes before and after the treatment showed that the wool fabrics treated with sodium hypochlorite and sodium percarbonate were severely and slightly damaged, respectively. By contrast, the fabrics treated with hydrogen peroxide were almost undamaged and whiter. Compared with untreated wools, or those treated with oxygen-bleaching agents (sodium percarbonate and hydrogen peroxide), the amide I band centred at 1647 cm−1 in the ATR-FTIR spectra of the wool fabrics broadened significantly after the treatment with the chlorine-bleaching agent (sodium hypochlorite). Furthermore, the amide I band broadened, and the intensity of the amide III band centred at 1235 cm−1 increased with increasing the chlorine content and yellowing in the wool fabrics. Based on these experiments, it was concluded that the structural changes and chemical damage caused by the chlorine-bleaching treatment of wool fabrics caused the oxidative cleavage of SS groups and the randomisation of cortex structures due to chlorination.

为了研究过氧化氢、过碳酸钠和次氯酸钠三种商品漂白剂对纺织品的影响,利用衰减全反射傅里叶变换红外光谱(ATR-FTIR)定量表征了这些漂白剂对羊毛织物的结构变化和化学损伤。对比处理前后的光谱变化表明,次氯酸钠和过碳酸钠对羊毛织物的损伤程度分别较重和较轻。相比之下,用双氧水处理的织物几乎没有损坏,而且更白。与未经处理的羊毛或氧漂白剂(过碳酸钠和过氧化氢)处理的羊毛相比,氯漂白剂(次氯酸钠)处理后羊毛织物的ATR-FTIR光谱中以1647 cm−1为中心的酰胺I带明显变宽。此外,随着氯含量的增加和羊毛织物黄化程度的提高,酰胺I带变宽,酰胺III带强度在1235 cm−1处增强。综上所述,经氯漂白处理的羊毛织物的结构变化和化学损伤是由于氯化作用导致的氧化裂解和皮层结构随机化所致。
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引用次数: 0
Wool dyeing with purple sweet potato extract by enhancing dye uptake and stability using lecithin during the mordanting process 紫甘薯浸膏对羊毛染色的作用是提高染料的吸收率和染色过程中卵磷脂的稳定性
IF 2.2 4区 工程技术 Q3 CHEMISTRY, APPLIED Pub Date : 2025-02-26 DOI: 10.1111/cote.12812
Sahar Ghased, Hossein Barani, Samaneh Khaleghi

This study explores the use of lecithin during the mordanting stage in the natural dyeing of wool with purple sweet potato extract to enhance dye uptake. We investigate the impact of lecithin on dyeing efficiency, considering variables such as temperature, pH and dye concentration. The results demonstrate that incorporating lecithin during mordanting significantly improves dye uptake, resulting in a true purple hue with enhanced chroma in the dyed wool yarns. Dyeing under acidic conditions produced higher colour strength because of the prevalence of the red-coloured flavylium cation form of anthocyanins. Fourier Transform–infrared spectroscopy confirmed the presence of anthocyanins and their interactions with wool fibres. Additionally, colour fastness evaluations showed that the use of aluminium salts (Al3+) as a mordant played a key role in enhancing fastness properties. Light fastness was rated fair to good for both peel- and flesh-dyed wool samples. Moreover, the purple sweet potato extract demonstrated significant anti-bacterial properties, effectively inhibiting a range of bacterial strains, including both Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria. This study provides valuable insights into optimising natural dyeing processes and highlights the potential of lecithin in mordanting for sustainable and high-performance textile applications.

本研究探讨了用紫甘薯提取物对羊毛进行自然染色时,在媒染期使用卵磷脂来提高染料的吸收率。我们研究了卵磷脂对染色效率的影响,考虑了温度、pH和染料浓度等变量。结果表明,在媒染法中加入卵磷脂可以显著提高染料的吸收率,从而在染色的羊毛纱线中产生真正的紫色色调和增强的色度。在酸性条件下染色产生更高的颜色强度,因为花青素的红色黄离子形式普遍存在。傅里叶变换红外光谱证实了花青素的存在及其与羊毛纤维的相互作用。此外,色牢度评价表明,使用铝盐(Al3+)作为媒染剂对提高色牢度性能起着关键作用。对脱皮染色和肉色染色的羊毛样品,光牢度被评为一般到良好。此外,紫甘薯提取物显示出显著的抗菌特性,有效抑制一系列细菌菌株,包括革兰氏阳性和革兰氏阴性细菌。这项研究为优化天然染色工艺提供了有价值的见解,并强调了卵磷脂在媒染剂中可持续和高性能纺织品应用的潜力。
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引用次数: 0
Investigation of the printability of ethyl 2-[4-(1,3,4-oxadiazol-2(3H)-thion-5-yl)phenylhydrazono]-3-oxobutyrate on coated and uncoated papers 2-[4-(1,3,4-恶二唑-2(3H)-硫-5-基)苯腙]-3-氧丁酸乙酯在涂布纸和非涂布纸上印刷性能的研究
IF 2.2 4区 工程技术 Q3 CHEMISTRY, APPLIED Pub Date : 2025-02-23 DOI: 10.1111/cote.12820
Ahmet Akgül, Ş. Güniz Küçükgüzel, Mehmet Oktav, Sevim Rollas

There is a growing demand in the printing industry for pigment-based inks with excellent lightfastness and rub resistance qualities. In this work, a novel ink with the formulation ethyl 2-[4-(1,3,4-oxadiazole-2(3H)-thione-5-yl)phenylhydrazono]-3-oxobutyrate (OXKT) was prepared as a pigment and its printability was investigated for use in printing. The OXKT was synthesised, characterised then printed on uncoated and gloss-coated papers and Bristol cardboard. Physical tests and spectrophotometric measurements were carried out to determine the technical characteristics of the printed ink. Additionally, print quality, ink density and gloss were evaluated. The results showed that the proposed ink with the OXKT compound had acceptable rub resistance. Also, the gloss and light fastness values exceeded the acceptable rates for the printing industry because of their colour differences. However, more research needs to be conducted to improve light performance. Nevertheless, it is still possible for use in applications that do not stipulate strict light fastness values.

印刷行业对具有优异耐光性和耐摩擦性的颜料基油墨的需求日益增长。本文以2-[4-(1,3,4-恶二唑-2(3H)-硫-5-基)苯基腙]-3-氧丁酸乙酯(OXKT)为颜料制备了一种新型油墨,并对其印刷性能进行了研究。OXKT被合成,表征,然后印刷在无涂层和光泽涂层纸和布里斯托尔纸板。通过物理试验和分光光度法测定油墨的技术特性。此外,印刷质量,油墨密度和光泽度进行了评估。结果表明,该油墨具有良好的耐摩擦性能。此外,光泽度和耐光牢度值超出了印刷业的可接受率,因为它们的色差。然而,需要进行更多的研究来提高光性能。尽管如此,它仍然可以用于没有严格规定耐光性值的应用中。
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引用次数: 0
Lignocellulose-based Stryphnodendron adstringens bark as a natural dye source for textiles: Extraction and dyeing studies 以木质纤维素为基础的藤皮作为纺织品的天然染料来源:提取和染色研究
IF 2.2 4区 工程技术 Q3 CHEMISTRY, APPLIED Pub Date : 2025-02-20 DOI: 10.1111/cote.12815
Patricia Muniz dos Santos Silva, Harold S. Freeman, Silgia Aparecida da Costa, Douglas da Silva Santos, Fernando Soares de Lima, Rayana Santiago de Queiroz, Ticiane Rossi Fiaschitello, Sirlene Maria da Costa

Natural dyes are gaining interest as a more ecological approach to textile coloration, as well as for slow fashion and the bioeconomy. The use of local raw materials is a way of valuing small producers and recovering traditional knowledge. In this context, the current investigation was developed to study the use of lignocellulose-based Stryphnodendron adstringens (Mart.) Coville (known as “barbatimão”) bark extract, from a native tree in Brazil, as a natural dye for textile dyeing. Physical–chemical analyses were performed on the reddish-brown extract, the results of which showed an acidic pH and the likely presence of condensed tannins and flavanols. The optimised dyeing process was evaluated by a 23 factorial design. The fabrics dyed under optimised conditions were evaluated for colour fastness to laundering, rubbing, light and perspiration, and obtained good colour fastness ratings in most of these tests. Wastewaters from dyeings were characterised by physicochemical analyses. Because of the high turbidity and high biochemical oxygen demand and chemical oxygen demand levels, as well as the amount of residual metal ions from dyeing with mordants, the need for wastewater pretreatment was evident. Based on this research, S. adstringens extracts have significant potential for textile coloration.

天然染料作为一种更生态的纺织品染色方法,以及慢时尚和生物经济,正引起人们的兴趣。使用当地原材料是重视小生产者和恢复传统知识的一种方式。在此背景下,本研究旨在研究木质纤维素基Stryphnodendron adstringens (Mart.)的使用。Coville(又名“barbaratim o”)树皮提取物,取自巴西的一种本地树木,作为纺织品染色的天然染料。对红褐色提取物进行了物理化学分析,结果显示pH值偏酸,可能存在浓缩单宁和黄烷醇。采用23因子设计对优化后的染色工艺进行评价。在优化的染色条件下,对染色织物进行了洗涤、摩擦、光和汗色牢度评价,在大多数试验中获得了良好的色牢度等级。对印染废水进行了理化分析。由于高浊度、高生化需氧量和高化学需氧量,以及媒染剂染色残留的大量金属离子,废水预处理的必要性是显而易见的。通过本研究发现,黄芪提取物在纺织品染色方面具有重要的应用潜力。
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引用次数: 0
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Coloration Technology
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