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Investigation of the effects of colour on the user's fabric handle perception and warm/cool feeling 色彩对用户织物手感和冷暖感觉影响的研究
IF 2 4区 工程技术 Q3 CHEMISTRY, APPLIED Pub Date : 2024-02-12 DOI: 10.1111/cote.12756
Rıza Atav, Seda Keskin

Colour has been an indispensable element for humanity from past to present. Colour, which in the past was used only to add visual appeal and to differentiate from others, is now also used for various functional purposes (such as textiles that change colour with heat). The aim of this study is to investigate whether the fabric colour has an effect on the handle perception and warm/cool feeling of the user. Studies have shown that, in subjective evaluations, fabrics with warm colours (yellow, red and orange) cause softer and warmer feeling than those with cool colours (blue, green and purple). In fact, considering that there is no statistically significant difference between the handle and temperature values determined by objective test methods, it can be said that this perception may arise from the psychological effect of colour. All these results reveal that colour, beyond adding visual appreciation to the fabric, also has an effect on handle perception and warm/cool feeling, which play an important role in the purchasing process for customers.

从古至今,色彩一直是人类不可或缺的元素。过去,颜色只是用来增加视觉吸引力和区别于他人,而现在,颜色也被用于各种功能性用途(如受热变色的纺织品)。本研究的目的是调查织物颜色是否会影响使用者的手感和冷暖感。研究表明,在主观评价中,暖色调织物(黄色、红色和橙色)比冷色调织物(蓝色、绿色和紫色)更柔和、更温暖。事实上,考虑到通过客观测试方法确定的手感值和温度值之间没有明显的统计学差异,可以说这种感觉可能来自色彩的心理效应。所有这些结果都表明,颜色除了能增加织物的视觉欣赏性外,还能影响手感和冷暖感,而这在客户的购买过程中起着重要作用。
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引用次数: 0
Flavonoid-based yellow dye extract from safflower (Carthamus tinctorius L.) combined with chitosan for anti-bacterial and ultraviolet-protective functionalisation of silk 红花(Carthamus tinctorius L.)黄酮类黄色染料提取物与壳聚糖结合用于丝绸的抗菌和紫外线防护功能化
IF 2 4区 工程技术 Q3 CHEMISTRY, APPLIED Pub Date : 2024-02-11 DOI: 10.1111/cote.12750
Khai Ly Do, Asim Mushtaq, Taswar Ahsan, Muhammad Yousaf, Feng Zhao, Miao Su

In the modern period, scientists are interested in the functional properties of natural materials. The present study is the first report on the use of safflower (Carthamus tinctorius L.) yellow dye extract combined with chitosan bio-mordant for enhancing the anti-bacterial and ultraviolet-protective activities of silk. The presence of flavonoid-based compounds in the dye extract was verified using liquid chromatography–mass spectrometry, Fourier transform-infrared spectroscopy, and ultraviolet-visible techniques. Moreover, alum mordant was also utilised in the silk dyeing process to compare the efficiency of bio and metallic mordanting agents. Experiment outcomes revealed that the chitosan mordanted-dyed silk sustained adequate fastness after being tested by washing, light, wet-rubbing, and dry-rubbing. In addition, superb bacterial inhibition percentages of 89% and 76% against Escherichia coli and Staphylococcus aureus, individually, were accomplished. Furthermore, the ultraviolet-protective behaviour of this silk sample was demonstrated with a 50+ ultraviolet protection factor and low-grade ultraviolet transmittance. This study reveals the great performance of an organic flavonoid dye as a sustainable and environmentally-friendly substance for dyeing and functionalising silk, as well as the efficacy of a green mordant over a metallic mordant in increasing the dyeability and functional activities of silk.

现代科学家对天然材料的功能特性非常感兴趣。本研究首次报道了将红花(Carthamus tinctorius L.)黄色染料提取物与壳聚糖生物协调剂结合使用,以增强蚕丝的抗菌和紫外线防护活性。使用液相色谱-质谱法、傅立叶变换红外光谱法和紫外可见光技术验证了染料提取物中黄酮类化合物的存在。此外,在丝绸染色过程中还使用了明矾媒染剂,以比较生物媒染剂和金属媒染剂的效率。实验结果表明,经过水洗、光照、湿搓和干搓测试后,壳聚糖媒染的丝绸保持了足够的牢度。此外,对大肠杆菌和金黄色葡萄球菌的抑菌率分别为 89% 和 76%。此外,这种蚕丝样品的紫外线防护性能也得到了证明,其紫外线防护系数达到了 50+,紫外线透射率也很低。这项研究揭示了有机黄酮类染料作为一种可持续发展的环保型物质在丝绸染色和功能化方面的卓越性能,以及绿色媒染剂相对于金属媒染剂在提高丝绸染色性和功能活性方面的功效。
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引用次数: 0
Study on enhancing the union dyeing of cotton/modal blended fabrics with cationic modifier 利用阳离子改性剂提高棉/花色混纺织物联合染色效果的研究
IF 2 4区 工程技术 Q3 CHEMISTRY, APPLIED Pub Date : 2024-02-07 DOI: 10.1111/cote.12751
Haitao Hao, Xu Chen, Mengyao Yu, Wenhao Zhu, Yongqiang Li

Cotton/modal blended fabrics are favoured by the market because not only do they have the advantages of the dimensional stability of cotton and drape wear resistance of modal, they also overcome their shortcomings, displaying a sense of stiffness and smooth feel. However, because of the differences in the physical and chemical properties between each component, the dyeing of blended fabrics with reactive dyes is prone to problems such as low fixation percentage, different dyeing percentages and colour depth. Here, two cationic modifiers, 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethyl ammonium chloride (GTA) and methaacryloyloxyethyltrimethyl ammonium chloride (DMC), were applied for cationic modification of cotton/modal blended fabrics, and their role in the dyeability and union dyeing of cotton/modal blended fabrics was studied. The results showed that the K/S and fixation percentage of the blended fabric treated with GTA and DMC cationic agents could be significantly improved compared with the control group, and that the colour fastness of the blended fabric can reach grade 4-5. Compared with GTA, DMC-modified cotton/modal blended fabric showed better union dyeing properties because of its better diffusion performance in the fibre. The mesoporous volume of the cotton fibre is higher than that of the modal fibre, while the micropore volume is the opposite. Consequently, DMC macromolecules, through free radical graft polymerisation, were more likely to diffuse into cotton fibres with more mesoporous content, increased the interaction force between anionic reactive dye and cotton fibre, and improved the dyeability of the cotton component and the union dyeing performance of the blended fabric.

棉/莫代尔混纺织物之所以受到市场的青睐,是因为它们不仅具有棉的尺寸稳定性和莫代尔的悬垂耐磨性等优点,还克服了它们的缺点,具有挺括感和光滑手感。然而,由于各组分的物理和化学性质不同,用活性染料对混纺织物进行染色时容易出现固色率低,染色比例和色深不同等问题。在此,将两种阳离子改性剂--2,3-环氧丙基三甲基氯化铵(GTA)和甲基丙烯酰氧乙基三甲基氯化铵(DMC)应用于棉/棉混纺织物的阳离子改性,并研究了它们在棉/棉混纺织物染色性和联合染色中的作用。结果表明,与对照组相比,经 GTA 和 DMC 阳离子剂处理的混纺织物的 K/S 和固色率均有显著提高,且混纺织物的色牢度可达 4-5 级。与 GTA 相比,DMC 改性棉/棉混纺织物的联合染色性能更好,因为它在纤维中的扩散性能更好。棉纤维的中孔体积高于莫代尔纤维,而微孔体积则相反。因此,DMC 大分子通过自由基接枝聚合更容易扩散到中孔含量更高的棉纤维中,增加了阴离子活性染料与棉纤维之间的相互作用力,提高了棉成分的染色性和混纺织物的染色性能。
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引用次数: 0
Natural dyeing of plasma treated wool with avocado seed extract and use of tartaric acid as bio-mordant 用鳄梨籽提取物和酒石酸作为生物媒染剂对等离子处理过的羊毛进行天然染色
IF 2 4区 工程技术 Q3 CHEMISTRY, APPLIED Pub Date : 2024-02-05 DOI: 10.1111/cote.12752
Nazlı Üren, Bengi Kutlu

In this study, surface modification of wool fabrics by oxygen plasma was carried out to enhance colour, dyeability and fastness properties. Avocado (Persea americana) seed was selected as the natural dye source, plasma activated wool samples were dyed with the extracted colourant and tartaric acid (10% and 20% owf) was used for simultaneous mordanting. All samples exhibited very good washing and dry rubbing fastness grades. It was observed that plasma treated samples have darker and more saturated colours with a persistent hue and increased wet rubbing fastness grades. Applying plasma treatment and using tartaric acid as bio-mordant provided a noticeable increase in chroma and colour strength, and a slight improvement in fastness to light. Effect of pH of the dye bath on dyeability and the bio-mordant role of tartaric acid were also investigated for four mordant concentrations (2%, 5%, 10% and 20% owf), and it was detected that using 5% owf or higher concentrations of tartaric acid provided different colour characteristics and dyeability when compared to the dye solutions prepared with inorganic acid. Based on findings of the study, it was concluded that modifying the fabric surface by oxygen plasma can be used to enhance the dyeing performance without causing a major change in the characteristic hue of the colourant extracted from avocado seeds. The use of tartaric acid - solitary or accompanied with plasma treatment - to increase the affinity between the colouring matter and the fibre was also recommended.

在这项研究中,利用氧等离子体对羊毛织物进行了表面改性,以提高其着色性、染色性和牢度特性。选择鳄梨(Persea americana)种子作为天然染料源,用提取的着色剂对等离子体激活的羊毛样品进行染色,同时使用酒石酸(10% 和 20% owf)进行媒染。所有样品的水洗牢度和干摩擦牢度都非常好。据观察,经过等离子处理的样品颜色更深,饱和度更高,色调更持久,湿摩擦牢度等级更高。应用等离子体处理并使用酒石酸作为生物调和剂,可明显提高色度和颜色强度,并略微改善耐光牢度。此外,还研究了四种浓度(2%、5%、10% 和 20%)的媒染剂对染色性和酒石酸生物媒染作用的影响,结果发现,与使用无机酸制备的染料溶液相比,使用 5%或更高浓度的酒石酸可提供不同的颜色特性和染色性。根据研究结果,可以得出结论:利用氧等离子体对织物表面进行改性可以提高染色性能,而不会导致从鳄梨籽中提取的着色剂的特征色调发生重大变化。此外,还建议使用酒石酸(单独使用或与等离子处理同时使用)来增加着色剂与纤维之间的亲和力。
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引用次数: 0
Textile printing: An integrated view of processes, properties, and future prospects 纺织品印花:工艺、特性和未来前景的综合视角
IF 2 4区 工程技术 Q3 CHEMISTRY, APPLIED Pub Date : 2024-01-29 DOI: 10.1111/cote.12746
Karine Thaise Rainert, Carlos Rafael Silva de Oliveira, Brenno Henrique Siva Felipe, Heiderose Herpich, Rita de Cássia Siqueira Curto Valle, José Alexandre Borges Valle

Textile printing processes consist of the localised application of colour on textile substrates to obtain well-defined designs and patterns. Currently, there are many textile printing techniques; however, the limitations and selectivity of these techniques still keep the printing method of rotary screen printing the most important and used among them. One of the advantages of rotary printing is its excellent application versatility, which can be used for any fabric and non-wovens, fibre, or mixtures, with high production speed, quality, colour fastness, and definition. However, due to its high complexity, rotary printing requires great technical knowledge. Rotary printing requires specific application care depending on the fabric structure, fibrous composition, grammage, and type of intended effect. Regardless of the technique used, printed articles need to ensure that the colour remains attached to the substrate, either by direct dye–fibre or indirect pigment–binder–fibre bonding, to resist the conditions of use, that is, light, abrasion, stretching, and washing. The rise in recent publications reflects the search for economic and sustainable textile printing alternatives, focusing on screen printing variables. Based on this, this review aimed to present a comprehensive guide containing all the care and essential technical information for processes based on rotary printing.

纺织品印花工艺包括在纺织品基底上局部涂色,以获得清晰的设计和图案。目前,有许多纺织品印花技术,但由于这些技术的局限性和选择性,轮转丝网印花仍是其中最重要和最常用的印花方法。轮转印花的优点之一是应用广泛,可用于任何织物和非织造布、纤维或混合物,具有生产速度快、质量高、色牢度好、清晰度高等特点。然而,由于其高度复杂性,轮转印花需要丰富的技术知识。根据织物结构、纤维成分、克重和预期效果类型的不同,轮转印花在应用时需要特别注意。无论使用哪种技术,印花织物都需要确保颜色通过染料-纤维直接粘合或颜料-粘合剂-纤维间接粘合的方式附着在基材上,以抵御使用条件,即光线、磨损、拉伸和洗涤。近期出版物的增加反映了人们在寻找经济、可持续的纺织品印花替代品,重点是丝网印花变量。在此基础上,本综述旨在提供一份全面的指南,其中包含基于轮转印花工艺的所有注意事项和基本技术信息。
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引用次数: 0
Valorisation of Napier grass through fibre extraction and coloration by natural dye from Rubia tinctorum 通过从茜草中提取纤维并用天然染料着色,实现纳皮尔草的价值提升
IF 2 4区 工程技术 Q3 CHEMISTRY, APPLIED Pub Date : 2024-01-26 DOI: 10.1111/cote.12747
Harshal Patil, Suraj Yadav, Ashok Athalye

Agricultural biomass is a well-known renewable resource with a strong possibility of recycling. The current work focuses on extracting, preparing and colouring Napier grass fibre (NGF) with a colourant extracted from Rubia tinctorum (RT) (which is generally known as madder). NGF that had been water-retted was alkaline scoured and bleached using hydrogen peroxide to increase the material's whiteness index and water absorption capacity without degrading its breaking strength. After being mordanted with tannic acid, the bleached NGF was coloured with an aqueous extract of the colourant extracted from RT. The Box–Behnken response surface methodology design model was employed to optimise the dyeing concentration, temperature and time. The dyed fibre showed good colour strength (K/S) and adequate wash, rub and light fastness. Adopting the findings from the current study would increase the efficient utilisation of biomass for use in textiles, which is unnecessarily wasted.

农业生物质是一种众所周知的可再生资源,具有很高的回收利用价值。目前的工作重点是从茜草(Rubia tinctorum,RT)(一般称为茜草)中提取着色剂,对拿皮尔草纤维(NGF)进行提取、制备和着色。对经过水洗的 NGF 进行碱洗,并使用过氧化氢进行漂白,以提高材料的白度指数和吸水能力,同时不降低其断裂强度。漂白后的 NGF 用单宁酸媒染,然后用从 RT 中提取的着色剂水提取物着色。采用方框-贝肯响应面方法设计模型来优化染色浓度、温度和时间。染色纤维显示出良好的着色力(K/S)和足够的耐洗、耐摩擦和耐光牢度。采用本研究的结果将提高生物质在纺织品中的有效利用率,而这些生物质却被不必要地浪费了。
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引用次数: 0
The roles of elevated temperature and carriers in the dyeing of polyester fibres using disperse dyes: Part 3 model of dye adsorption based on dye solubility 高温和载体在聚酯纤维分散染料染色中的作用:基于染料溶解度的染料吸附模型
IF 2 4区 工程技术 Q3 CHEMISTRY, APPLIED Pub Date : 2023-11-21 DOI: 10.1111/cote.12745
Stephen M. Burkinshaw

This review concerns the application of disperse dyes to poly(ethylene terephthalate) fibres using aqueous immersion dyeing processes and the roles of both elevated dyeing temperatures and carriers in the disperse dye/polyester fibre and disperse dye/carrier/polyester fibre dyeing systems, respectively. In this part of the paper, a mechanistic model of the disperse dye adsorption process is presented that is based on the role of dye solubility in disperse dye-PET fibre substantivity. It is shown that the dye solubility model of disperse dye adsorption, which can be articulated using a simple mathematical approach, is able to account for the reasons why elevated dyeing temperatures are utilised in HT dyeing processes, and also why dyeing accelerants enable dyeing to be achieved using lower temperatures of ~100°C.

本文综述了分散染料在聚对苯二甲酸乙酯纤维中的应用,以及提高染色温度和载体在分散染料/聚酯纤维和分散染料/载体/聚酯纤维染色体系中的作用。本文基于染料溶解度对分散染料- pet纤维物质性的影响,建立了分散染料吸附过程的机理模型。研究表明,分散染料吸附的染料溶解度模型可以用简单的数学方法来阐述,它能够解释为什么在HT染色过程中使用升高的染色温度,以及为什么染色促进剂能够在~100℃的较低温度下实现染色。
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引用次数: 0
Fabric colour measurement in the small region of CIELab colour space using a scanner-based subtractive clustering fuzzy inference system 利用基于扫描仪的减法聚类模糊推理系统在CIELAB色彩空间的小区域进行织物颜色测量
IF 2 4区 工程技术 Q3 CHEMISTRY, APPLIED Pub Date : 2023-11-20 DOI: 10.1111/cote.12739
Elham Hasanlou, Ali Shams Nateri, Hossein Izadan

Digital devices are increasingly being used in the colour measurement of textile-made materials. Proper scanner characterisation is crucial for accurate and consistent colour measurement. In the present study a fuzzy inference system based on subtractive clustering, called FIS_SC method, for the colorimetric characterisation of a scanner to measure the colour of the fabrics in a small region of a colour space is proposed. The results of the proposed method for 16 colour sets were obtained and compared with the results of the scanner characterisation using polynomial regression and neural network method. It was shown that the FIS_SC method successfully characterised the scanner in the small colour space, so that its mean of the colour difference was lower than the polynomial regression and neural network methods in almost all colour sets.

数字设备越来越多地用于纺织材料的颜色测量。正确的扫描仪特性对于准确和一致的颜色测量至关重要。在本研究中,提出了一种基于减法聚类的模糊推理系统,称为FIS_SC方法,用于扫描仪在色彩空间的小区域内测量织物的颜色。对16个颜色集进行了分析,并与采用多项式回归和神经网络方法的扫描仪表征结果进行了比较。结果表明,FIS_SC方法在较小的颜色空间内成功地表征了扫描仪,在几乎所有的颜色集上,其色差均值都低于多项式回归和神经网络方法。
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引用次数: 0
Multipurpose pigment printing and functional finishing of cellulosic fabrics 纤维素织物的多用途颜料印花及功能性整理
IF 2 4区 工程技术 Q3 CHEMISTRY, APPLIED Pub Date : 2023-11-20 DOI: 10.1111/cote.12742
Eman Abd-Elaziz

Functional fabrics that are economical and environmentally friendly are desired for many applications. Here in, individual inclusion of different additives, such as softeners, polyurethane, polyethylene glycol (PEG-600) and benzophenone in suitable pigment printing formulation were applied to various cellulose containing fabrics, using flat screen and microwave curing methods. The imparted multifunctional and performance finishes to cellulosic fabrics namely ultraviolet (UV) protection, antibacterial, anti-crease, and softening were evaluated. The developed functional properties and the depth of the pigment prints produced are governed by the nature of the substrate, concentration/location/distribution in addition to fixation of the added active compounds and pigment colourants. The surface alteration, morphological modifications, and immobilisation of the certain active components onto the printed substrates have been confirmed by scanning electron microscopy and energy-dispersive X-ray spectroscopy analysis for selected samples.

许多应用都需要经济环保的功能性织物。本文采用平板网纹和微波固化的方法,在合适的颜料印花配方中分别加入柔软剂、聚氨酯、PEG 600和二苯甲酮等不同的助剂,对各种含纤维素织物进行染色。评价了纤维织物的防紫外线、抗菌、抗皱、软化等多功能和性能。除了添加的活性化合物和颜料着色剂的固定作用外,所开发的功能特性和所产生的颜料印花的深度还受基质的性质、浓度/位置/分布的影响。通过对选定样品的扫描电镜和能量色散x射线光谱分析,证实了某些活性成分在印刷基板上的表面改变、形态改变和固定。
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引用次数: 0
Photostability of Mannich-type dyed silk fibroin with pyrazolone-containing aromatic primary amine dyes 含吡唑酮芳族伯胺染料曼尼型染色丝素的光稳定性
IF 2 4区 工程技术 Q3 CHEMISTRY, APPLIED Pub Date : 2023-11-20 DOI: 10.1111/cote.12743
Qing Guo, Weiguo Chen, Dongming Qi, Pu Gao, Min Wang, Daquan Zhu, Jie Ling, Zhihua Cui

Mannich-type dyeing of silk fibroin with aromatic primary amine dyes (APADs) is a novel reactive dyeing method that requires mild conditions and exhibits high selectivity and good wet fastness. However, the primary amine group in the APADs significantly decreases the photostability of Mannich-type dyed silk fabrics. To reveal the structure–activity relationship and photofading mechanism of the APADs by Mannich-type dyeing, six pyrazolone-containing APADs with similar structures were designed and synthesised. Variation in amino electron density among the dye analogues was related to differences in colour fixation of the Mannich-dyed fabrics, as determined from the calculated Mulliken charge densities. Using mass spectrometry to monitor the photodecomposition of the dyed silk, it is demonstrated that the Mannich-type dyed silk fabrics undergo photooxidative fading, in contrast to the conventional acidic-type dyed fabrics that undergo photoreductive fading. Furthermore, it is shown that the Mannich-type dyed silk fabric has a higher light fastness than conventional acidic-type dyed fabrics using the same pyrazolone-containing APADs. Evaluation of dye dipole moment and Mannich-type dyeing shows that the APADs with increased dipole moments generally demonstrated increased light fastness.

芳香伯胺染料对丝素进行曼尼型染色是一种条件温和、选择性高、湿牢度好的新型活性染色方法。然而,APADs中的伯胺基团显著降低了曼尼奇型染色真丝织物的光稳定性。为了揭示mannich型染色apad的构效关系及其光褪色机理,设计并合成了6种结构相似的含吡唑啉酮apad。染料类似物中氨基电子密度的变化与曼尼希染色织物的固色性差异有关,这是由计算的Mulliken电荷密度确定的。利用质谱法监测染色真丝的光分解,证明了曼尼奇型染色真丝织物发生光氧化褪色,而传统的酸性染色织物则发生光还原褪色。结果表明,使用相同的吡唑啉酮apad, mannich型染色真丝织物比传统的酸性染色织物具有更高的耐光性。对染料偶极矩和曼尼奇型染色的评价表明,偶极矩增加的apad一般具有更高的耐光性。
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引用次数: 0
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Coloration Technology
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